2.2 swap quick overview please?

[tnrknght]

What would be a general idea of steps to pulling these motors? Turns out my friend that scrapped the forester didnt pull the motor in a safe and sound manner, and im not near my car to get an idea? On the way to pull a new motor for my 98 wagon now..

[harrymaneuvers]

Quick and dirty version.

1. Open hood

2. Remove battery, washer bottle, intake/air filter (all the way up to the throttle body)

4. Remove radiator, radiator fans, coolant overfill bottle and hoses.

5. Remove accessory belts, alternator.

6. Remove bolts securing the power steering pump and AC

7. Remove intake manifold, starter and pitch stop. You will need to unplug two big huge connectors and a few smaller sensor connectors to completely remove the intake manifold.

8. Look through the flywheel hole where the black plug is or used to be and undo the bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter (for automatics).

8.Go under the car and remove the exhaust headers back to the cats and the two nuts that secure the motor mounts

9. While under the car, also remove as many lower bell housing bolts as you can see. There will be two nuts and either 2 more bolts or 6 more bolts.

10. Roll your AC compressor over into the area where the battery used to be. Roll the power steering pump over to where the intake air box used to be.

11. Attached cherry picker to the AC anchor plate and the wire loom connector bracket (rear passenger side of engine by bell housing)

12. Start hoisting the engine with the cherry picker until the motor mounts are clear of the subframe. At thsi point... the tranny will still be stuck to the engine and will have lifted upward slightly. Put another jack under the tranny to support it.

13. Take your rubber mallet and start smacking the heck out of the union of the tranny and the motor. It will start to separate. If not... take a prybar and carefully pry to the two sides apart. Once the engine is clear of the tranny, lift it up and out. Then go back to the tranny and put a block of wood or HEAVY duty cardboard between the bottom of the tranny and the crossmember so that you can let the jack down that holds the tranny.


I just did this.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24668&start=60 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24668&start=60)

[tnrknght]

Sweet I definitely appreciate the writeup, got the new motor pulled (its a 2.2 but it was the only complete/undamaged motor and is only going to be a crutch til Im finished building a motor) Now I have to hit it hard first thing tomorrow Im hoping to get the motor swapped out and driving tomorrow evening. Only took two hours to pull the motor today (including time to look in other cars for parts) shouldnt take much longer to pull mine tomorrow and same time to get the new one in.

new motor (still messy havent cleaned it off yet)
http://imageshack.us/a/img89/2073/20121022174147.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/7586/20121022174136.jpg

[tnrknght]

Okay so finally after breaking down the top of the motor i realized the valve covers look different from my ej22 to the one i just picked up. Will this be an issue for swapping the harness and intake manifold? I just want to be sure before i disect a still running 2.2

[r3v_v3ng3]

Yes it will be an issue. You have a phase 1 2.2 and the new one you have is a phase 2
It won't bolt on, different pattern.

[harrymaneuvers]

On the photo of the motor that you pulled... the torque converter is still attached to it.


BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO REMOVE YOUR MOTOR WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER AS IT IS REALLY TRICKY TO GET IT BACK INTO THE TRANSMISSION WITHOUT DAMAGING THE TRANNY PUMP AND OR SEALS. THIS IS WHERE TAKING THE BOLTS OUT VIA THE ACCESS PLUG ON TOP/PASSANGER SIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING BECOMES VERY IMPORTANT. WITHOUT REMOVING THOSE BOLTS... YOUR TORQUE CONVERTER WILL PULL OUT WITH THE MOTOR WHICH = VERY BAD.

[tnrknght]

So i take it i shouldnt use this torque converter with 90k less on it huh?

Okay so i ordered gaskets for the intake manifold and they didnt match the new motor, what are the chances my intake manifold wont match? I didnt pull my mani yet to see if the gaskets match but it was also noticed there was no egr on the new motor... there were no vin plates on the car to get a year...

[tnrknght]

Okay just saw the answer about the phase 1 and phase 2 so i get that i cant use my manifold. Does this mean the motor is no good to me? Or is there another way to go about it? Will the harness plug in and go or can i put my harness on the new manifold?

[harrymaneuvers]

You would either need to get the matching manifold/ecu/wiring for the new motor OR

Take the heads off of the new motor and sell them. Then take your motor out and put your heads on the new motor...Then reinstall the new motor with your heads on it.


That way you will get a newer motor but the heads, intake, wiring, ect stays the same as what your car came with. Making the swap WAY easier than the first option.

[tnrknght]

Really wish i had this info before, my phone was dead. We started comparing the differences between the pase 1 and phase 2 setup. On the wiring harness itself, other than the main plugs the only difference we saw were the fuel injector connectors. All the sensors appeared to be the same. On the intake manifold itself, the new manifold didnt have the egr system that my original motor has. Of couse the sensors were different on the throttle body and the pinout for the ignition coil as well. The tb itself was shaped differently. However.....

1) If I swap the original harness to the new manifold, the only difference will be the fuel injector connectors, which I can repin to match the phase 2 injector plugs.
2) Would the new manifold not having an egr system act as an egr delete? And if so is there any difference in performance/economy? I know in the 3000gt they lost 4hp by adding an egr system in 94(ish?)
3) As far as the throttle body goes, it mounted properly aside from the phase 2 having an air passage for a vacuum line/sensor atop the matching throttle body. Im in the process of fabricating an adaptor plate thatll block off the air passage. you can see the difference:

Phase 2 gasket/ fabbed adaptor plate/ Phase 1 gasket
http://imageshack.us/a/img233/7176/20121026174410.jpg

Would all this be more complicated than swapping the heads? I mean, with 241k on the heads Id probably want them sent out (valve job, make sure heads are completely straight and planed, the usual) And the motor we picked up, one big bonus was that it clearly had the head gaskets and timing belt done recently. No paperwork, but strong indicators such as the fresh print on the timing belt (I pulled the small cover on the driver side) no signs of wear and even where the head gasket sticks up from the seam between the block and head, you can see its go no aging to it.

[r3v_v3ng3]

Sorry for the late response
I did a 2.5 phase 2 on my friends 96 legacy (2.2). You can still make it to work. Lucky for him he's old engine didn't have egr so you will definitely will have an egr code. On the plus side for you, it looks like you have a 99 impreza 2.2 phase 2 engine where it uses the iacv on the throttle body and its a 3 wire just like your old iacv (The newer ones uses 6 wires). Use your old engine harness and you don't need to fab up the adapter plate.

So.... top of my head

Use your old harness
-depin/repin the injector connector from the new harness to your old one (one at a time so you don't get mixed up)
-Use your old 3 pin TPS sensor on the newer engine
-Use your old 3 pin Coil to the newer engine (might need to drill a new mounting hole)
-Modify the end of the newer plug wire that connects to the old coil (put the old and the new one side by side and inside you will see that you need to remove like a locking pin)
-Extend the iacv wires so that it will reach to the iacv sensor on top of the throttle body
-Leave the (map i think) sensor unplug on that driver side throttle body. You already have one that is plugged by the passenger side strut tower
-Use your old alternator (2 wire) the new one is 3 wire

I hope this help
-

[r3v_v3ng3]

And yes like harrymaneuvers said I would not trust the torque converter on the newer engine. Its suppose to stay on the transmission when its removed. Its not like a flywheel/clutch where you can pull it out with the motor

[tnrknght]

it uses the iacv on the throttle body and its a 3 wire just like your old iacv (The newer ones uses 6 wires). Use your old engine harness and you don't need to fab up the adapter plate.Okay so I shouldnt bother with my adaptor to mount the p1 throttlebody to the p2 manifold? I was kinda proud of taking the initiative and all that fab work :smt010


it looks like you have a 99 impreza 2.2 phase 2 engine We definitely pulled it from a 2g legacy sedan, however the vins were gone like it had been stolen or something. I remember with my brothers truck the state police took the vin plates off and replaced it with like an 8 digit code :smt017 and yes the engines legit I got it from sams u-pull-it in worcester, ma


-Use your old 3 pin Coil to the newer engine (might need to drill a new mounting hole)
-Modify the end of the newer plug wire that connects to the old coil (put the old and the new one side by side and inside you will see that you need to remove like a locking pin)Okay, if Im using my old harness and my old coil shouldnt that already match? I already expected to be fabbing a mounting plate since my tb adaptor plate came out so well :roll:


-Extend the iacv wires so that it will reach to the iacv sensor on top of the throttle bodyIf I use my tb adaptor plate and old tb, then I can still use the original sensors and wires correct?

Im not trying to be an asshat, just trying to look at all the options. I do appreciate the input 1000% and I understand itll be too risky to try and swap the torque converters, it was worth a shot I guess.
Im also wondering now, since we now know its a phase2 motor, what yr should I be looking for gaskets and such? Again, the valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets didnt match when I searched for a 98 2.2... will my phase1 oil pan match the phase2 motor? The salvage yard we got the motor from punctures and plugs the oil pan to more efficiently drain the motors....

[r3v_v3ng3]

Okay so I shouldnt bother with my adaptor to mount the p1 throttlebody to the p2 manifold? I was kinda proud of taking the initiative and all that fab work :smt010

Yeah lol sorry . My friend also tried doing, custom fabbing a plate but its not really necessary. You can actually pull the actuator shut on the iacv so that you don't need a block off plate (which is what i did on his)


We definitely pulled it from a 2g legacy sedan, however the vins were gone like it had been stolen or something. I remember with my brothers truck the state police took the vin plates off and replaced it with like an 8 digit code :smt017 and yes the engines legit I got it from sams u-pull-it in worcester, ma

Hmmm. I think the throttle body with a 3 wire iacv on it is 99 specific on the impreza's and maybe from a 2000 legacy since the 99 legacy still used the phase 1 ej25d


Okay, if Im using my old harness and my old coil shouldnt that already match? I already expected to be fabbing a mounting plate since my tb adaptor plate came out so well :roll:

Yes the old harness and old coil match but your going to be using the newer spark plug wires which it won't plug into your old coil without modding it.


If I use my tb adaptor plate and old tb, then I can still use the original sensors and wires correct?

Yes you can but you won't be able to have the iacv since the phase 2 have the iacv on the throttle body. You can't have your old iacv either unless you cut a big hole on the newer intake manifold and have it machined to accept your old iacv (which would be expensive)


Im not trying to be an asshat, just trying to look at all the options. I do appreciate the input 1000% and I understand itll be too risky to try and swap the torque converters, it was worth a shot I guess.
Im also wondering now, since we now know its a phase2 motor, what yr should I be looking for gaskets and such? Again, the valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets didnt match when I searched for a 98 2.2... will my phase1 oil pan match the phase2 motor? The salvage yard we got the motor from punctures and plugs the oil pan to more efficiently drain the motors....

No problem. Its better to ask many questions than to mess up and ask the question.
Search for the year 2000 2.2 to be sure (phase 2 started on 99 on the impreza's and 2000 on the legacy). Yes the oil pan will fit (phase 1 or 2) same block design.

[tnrknght]

-Leave the (map i think) sensor unplug on that driver side throttle body. You already have one that is plugged by the passenger side strut towerJust looked at this one again, does this mean that the plug for the maf attached to my stock air box will NOT be removed when I pull the harness and phase1 manifold off? Or will I have to modify this somehow? These are all things I need to figure out before I take on the challenge, since I have to have it all done in one day. I cant afford to get snagged half way through the rewire.

Ill be honest at this point Im just cleaning up all the hard parts before they go back on, only way not to be sitting on my thumbs waiting to get the swap done. :banghead:

[r3v_v3ng3]

No it wont be removed, its actually a different harness and if you follow it it will lead to the ecu just like the engine harness. The maf sensor plug should be together with it also

[tnrknght]

Thats wonderful to hear, Ill be parking the wagon where the motor is being stored hopefully Ill have good news soon I need things to start working out right now lol

[tnrknght]

-Modify the end of the newer plug wire that connects to the old coil (put the old and the new one side by side and inside you will see that you need to remove like a locking pin)
I checked it out earlier this afternoon and the phase2 wires did plug into the phase1 coil with no problems, here theyre just plugged in to the coil still on the old motor:
http://imageshack.us/a/img546/8075/20121102170358.jpg

I hit most of the brackets and intake manifold and coolant line with some black vht engine paint I had sitting and I think it looks too... dull. What should I do with the manifold?
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/5315/20121102175308.jpg

[r3v_v3ng3]

Ah you have the newer coil then. His was a 96 so he had the older style coil.
I like the engine bay that flat black, but thats just me but if you can paint it red like the STI manifold

[tnrknght]

Yea Ill be doing red for the manifold, the strut tower bar I have on my parts list is also a metallic red, while the ngk spark plug wires Im looking at are blue.

I know its not important but I have a thing with keeping all aspects of my car visually appealing :roll: Ive tried telling myself its not vital dont worry about it but I know if I put it in and I dont like how it looks itll bug the hell out of me until I do something about it.

[r3v_v3ng3]

I know what you mean. I use to be like that but stopped when I get harass by cops when they think anything painted is aftermarket/illegal :smt013 . So I usually stick to aluminum look or flat black in the engine bay.
Post pic when done!