View Full Version : aftermarket traqns cooler and filter??
tnrknght
11-15-2012, 11:01 AM
Okay so talking to one of the members here (first time meeting another member in person, it was cool :grin: ) I was informed that the 4eat trans was known for having issues, something along the lines of not having the stock tansmission cooler filtered. I dont recall the exact details.
What Im wondering is, with this being an excuse to do so, where would be the most opportune location for a new tranny cooler? I figure with this I can install an inline filter and while Im doing all this even a trans temp gauge, I like to monitor my cars vitals. Ive had afr, voltage etc not to look like a "because racecar" but to make sure things are as they should be.
harrymaneuvers
11-15-2012, 11:46 AM
I would mount it infront of the AC condenser. I just did this on the Fiance's FXT. I opted for a cooler with a built in fan.
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ost24.html (http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/1305768-post24.html)
Huffer
11-16-2012, 12:44 PM
The 4EAT vehicles have their trans cooler as part of the Radiator assembly. You could install an inline filter though, if you wanted. But there is a filter in the pan of the transmission.
harrymaneuvers
11-16-2012, 01:49 PM
^Correct. But if you plan on towing anything or aggressively driving in 100+ degree weather, a secondary tranny cooler is a good idea.
I really cant think of any downsides to adding one other than the time, effort and cost to install.
Dead91silvia
11-16-2012, 06:45 PM
The make a ton of aftermarket trans coolers. I have one on my GMC I got with my new/used core support that I havent got around to hooking up yet.
If you plan to do towing, travailing in hot weather, racing, or anything that will put extra stress or strain on the trans, it's always a good idea. My 98 BD has a factory filter (like an oil filter) and even at that, there is one in the pan also.
No extra filters are needed
tnrknght
11-17-2012, 10:50 PM
Im thinking of installing a tow package in the spring, and doing some moe towing. I know its probably frowned upon, but I have pushed and pulled vehicles, even my old SUV with the subie and I figure with a tow dolly I can do so without the potential of damaging either car. Hense thinking of the cooler and filter, but Im glad to hear that the extra filter thing isnt vitally necessary.
harrymaneuvers
11-18-2012, 01:22 AM
The OEM filter is technically a "non-serviceable" part with no replacement intervals. Either way... for the extra $$ you might as well have piece of mind.
Definitely get an OEM one if you do replace it.
anothernord
11-18-2012, 12:35 PM
If you put another cooler inline with the transmission, you might consider putting it after the radiator, since the most that system will be able to cool the fluid will be the engine's temperature.
tnrknght
11-19-2012, 10:07 PM
If you put another cooler inline with the transmission, you might consider putting it after the radiator, since the most that system will be able to cool the fluid will be the engine's temperature.I would definitely put it after the stock cooler (radiator) as an added precaution when the tranny is under a load (quick accelleration/towing)
The OEM filter is technically a "non-serviceable" part with no replacement intervals. Either way... for the extra $$ you might as well have piece of mind.
Definitely get an OEM one if you do replace it.I recently watched a video on youtube, the whole deal with changing the trans filter.. which got me thinking about that.. with 241k on my transmission do I really wanna do a fluid/filter change? Or will I most likely open up a can of worms and hari-kari my tranny?
harrymaneuvers
11-20-2012, 09:58 AM
There shouldnt be any risk in draining and refilling your tranny (only get like 5 of the 12 quarts), drive for a few hundred miles then drain and fill again.
Do that 3 or 4 times, replace the spin on filter and you should be set.
I have only heard of people getting into trouble when they do a transmission flush with a machine. I have heard that sometimes causes unwanted results due to either contaminated fluid that was left in the machine, or certain deposits/varnishes that are pushed into places they werent normally or pulled away from places that they have accumulated.
Huffer
11-20-2012, 12:06 PM
Make sure you're not towing anything that's too heavy for the chassis. Otherwise you'll damage more than just the trans.
Dead91silvia
11-20-2012, 12:06 PM
There shouldnt be any risk in draining and refilling your tranny (only get like 5 of the 12 quarts), drive for a few hundred miles then drain and fill again.
Do that 3 or 4 times, replace the spin on filter and you should be set.
I have only heard of people getting into trouble when they do a transmission flush with a machine. I have heard that sometimes causes unwanted results due to either contaminated fluid that was left in the machine, or certain deposits/varnishes that are pushed into places they werent normally or pulled away from places that they have accumulated.
LOL... I have only done this once to my BD and it's at 251K... never had a problem. Also my wholesale guy at Subaru says he sells about 3-4 trans filters a year, mainly because a new guy at Jiffy Lube things it's the engine filter. haha... They never replace the trans filters at the dealer unless they have a dent or a hole.
harrymaneuvers
11-20-2012, 02:21 PM
If you are going to drain and replace the ATF... I vote to not go cheap. That was one of the first things I did when I got my BD back in 2007 with only 140k miles. I am really really impressed with Amsoil's ATF.
Over 100k miles later and the tranny didnt have a single shifting issue.
To be frank... the last 40k miles of the engines life I drove it like a bat out of hell. Every time I was first in line at a light and it changed to green, I would floor the car to the point where it would shift JUST before redline.
Driving like that 4 miles to work, then home for lunch, then back to work and then again when I got off... along with EVERYWHERE else I would drive and still had not a single issue with slipping, hard shifts ect.
tnrknght
11-20-2012, 02:42 PM
Do that 3 or 4 times, replace the spin on filter and you should be set.Ill be honest I havevnt seen another spin-on filter aside from the oil filter... I was going by the video on youtube where (just as my mazda was) you have to drop the tranny pan and theres the filter inside.. I know he was working on a 2nd gen I dont recall the exact year. Where would the spin-on trans filter be?
Make sure you're not towing anything that's too heavy for the chassis. Otherwise you'll damage more than just the trans.I dont expect to be hauling SUVs all day maybe the occasional bmw if this kid ever fixes it :roll: Either way just to be safe, what is the recommended towing capacity on the wagons?
To be frank... the last 40k miles of the engines life I drove it like a bat out of hell. Every time I was first in line at a light and it changed to green, I would floor the car to the point where it would shift JUST before redline. I dont doubt thatd be me once this motor fires up. I also intend to attempt the "power/sport mode" mod with the missing pin on the tcu. From what I understand it does cause it to shift a little harder which opposes how these transmissions are almost made to slip into every gear. "Slushbox" I believe was the term used in the diy writeup... So between the new engine and the sport mode I think the subie will feel worlds better.
harrymaneuvers
11-20-2012, 03:11 PM
A little sideways but:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/8600d1193356349transmissiondifferentialf-1.jpg
tnrknght
11-21-2012, 12:03 AM
awsome now soon as I get to see my car again I can take a look :confused3:
harrymaneuvers
11-23-2012, 05:16 PM
Here is a better picture... just because I happened to pull my old 4EAT out of the BD.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/11/temporary14-1.jpg
tnrknght
11-23-2012, 11:21 PM
^ ^ I love the revealing images :smt044 I may go ahead and do a flush and fill before rolling again if itll be that simple to get to the filter.
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