Head gaskets round 2, suggestions?

[unsullied_spy]

Stock HGs were toast at 74k miles, then a few thousand ago my thermostat stuck and the car overheated. I have been having issues with it intermittently overheating (usually low RPM after traveling at 50+ MPH for at least a few minutes). I originally used an aftermarket thermostat (CarQuest premium T-stat) which is actually designed like the OE T-stat and it worked just fine. It finished my road trip to CO then got me home and driving for a few weeks before the problem started. I replaced it with an OE thermostat which didn't solve the problem, then replaced the radiator and was tearing the engine down to replace the water pump again when I noticed coolant on my oil filter. It's leaking quite badly at the front and is seeping all along the length of the head so now I'd like some input for what to do.

Option 1:
Roll the dice and pick up a used engine from a local Subaru mechanic for $1400 or $1800 (one has 140k miles, one has 100k) and hope they've been well cared for. My engine only has 87k and some change.

Option 2:
Rebuild this PoS again.

I'm leaning towards fixing this engine up again (and hopefully sell it before it costs me another couple grand) but would like to fix it up right. I've read that the EJ 255/257 head gaskets up through '06 are pretty much bullet-proof but the guy that does my engine work is concerned that after having the heads machined there may be clearance issues with those gaskets since they are thinner. Aftermarket gaskets never seem to last even as well as the OE gaskets so I'm still going to pay out the :smt013 for parts there, just wish there was something better. He also suggests that I replace the head bolts. Not something that's always replaced on these but he said it can't hurt given the amount of trouble I've already had with this car.

I was considering upgrading the oil pump this time around since these engines love to toss the #1 rod but from what I've gathered through searching the forum the stock SOHC 2.5 is best off with the stock pump, just re-loctite the bolts and replace all the seals and it's good. Since I bought the car at 47k miles it has never once missed an oil change and it's been exclusively synthetic save for 2 changes where I just couldn't afford $9/quart so I ran Castrol Syn blend instead.

I'm replacing pretty much every gasket in the whole engine while it's out and disassembled and using OE parts on everything, but if there's any suggestions for something better than OE or anything I can do to hold this thing together longer than a few months I'd love to hear it.

[Dead91silvia]

First things first... What kind of car/motor is this?

[unsullied_spy]

Right, keep forgetting that my sig didn't save...it's an 04 BE 5 speed, SOHC 2.5.

[r3v_v3ng3]

My only suggestion is that install an all aluminum 2row radiator. Matter of fact they offer that on for your car on ebay for less than $150.
I had to do my headgasket twice also(ej25d). Both failed when the hi speed radiator fan setting wouldn't come on. The 2row aluminum radiator will give you the extra insurance if something goes wrong. Also install an aftermarket radiator temperature gauge so you can have a better reading of your coolant temps.

BTW where do you buy your synthetic oil for $9 a quart :smt017 ? Unless its royal purple or something like that but you can go to walmart and spend $25 for a gallon mobil1 full synthetic

[unsullied_spy]

How well do those fit? I was talking to one of my local Subaru mechanics and he was saying a lot of aftermarket radiators don't fit real well, especially the bigger ones.

I was running Mobil 1 EP with a Bosch Distance Plus oil filter for a long time and it was running something like $40-$50 for an oil change. Sometimes Cosco has some really good deals on Mobil 1 as well, especially when you can get a rebate on it. I usually spend anywhere from $4-$9/quart on oil depending on what deals I can get and what happens to be available. I ran Red Line oil for a while, but that was even more.

[r3v_v3ng3]

They fit well but tight. Keep in mind that the radiator will be thicker so it will push your fan closer to the engine but will have adequate clearance.

[unsullied_spy]

I've got a new Spectra Premium radiator in there now, seems to be a decent aftermarket radiator for cars that haven't seen any engine mods what-so-ever.

A deal on a '98 Mazda B4000 extended cab long box 5 spd fell through and I've decided to keep the car for now. It's mostly been the engine that I've had trouble with so rather than buy a new car I've decided to set aside money each paycheck (as if I were making a payment) and use that to buy a built-up engine for my car. I can get a "bulletproof" 2.5 built from one of my local mechanics for about $3k so I'm going to run this engine until it blows up then probably end up dropping in a whole new engine. When this PoS is finally set to be laid to rest I may, depending on what the core charge is, just set a brick on the gas pedal and see how long it can sit at WOT before blowing a rod through the block. I'll be sure to post a video and will surely laugh maniacally as I watch the innards blow outwards.

[shredtahoe]

Definitely rebuild, its only got 87k miles! New radiator would be a good idea, like those above have said. No subaru head gasket is going to hold up to overheating very long, just get some good OEM or Fel pro MLS head gaskets, you should be fine for a long time after that.

[pleaidestar]

I am going to do the hg's in my 90 LSi wagon, never done headgaskets on any vehicle...looking forward towards it though, any tips and pointers? I am going to do all the others seals as well while its out but I heard the fel-pro gaskets are weak but they offer a kit for all seals and gaskets and I think the timing belt tensioner all for $209 and some change. But it doesn't come with the head bolts, what should I look for as far as head bolts and should I absolutely check for deflection in the heads and block?

[Garrison]

^^^ definitely get the heads checked-out! When the engine overheats, the headgasket tends to fail shortly thereafter (hence why everyone is recommending upgrading the radiator).

When the engine overheats, it can also warp the heads and so they may need to be planed to make them flat again. Upon dis-assembly, a straight edge and feeler gauge will be the simplest way to determine their true-ness.

My opinion would be to rebuild it too, and if you can get a friend with a lift to help you, it's something you can do by yourself.
I would hand it over to a professional to be assembled to make sure everything was spec, but that's just a personal preference for anal-retentiveness.

[pleaidestar]

I agree with a rebuild go to a pro....I dont know the know the ins and out of rebuild but may not have enough cash for that..I do have a spare 2.2 that came out of my 95 but it is tired and I may have to rebuild the heads on that one as well. At least to replace the spark plug tubes, I know they have 2 plugs that I had to re-tap. The valve train may need a few hla's, the motor has 256k miles on it as well.

Radiator replacement too? Oil coats that thing I'm guessing?

[pleaidestar]

I was thinking I was just going to the hg's, all the seals front and back, separator plate, all gaskets top and bottom...decking the heads if need be. Think I should do rod bearings and what else is obvious?

Think I have bitten off more than I can chew...

[pleaidestar]

Sorry man didn't mean to pop off or hijack questions in your thread...just thought it was relevant to you also.

[kimokalihi]

I can only suggest using subarus coolant conditioner. They say to use it in all their engines. I recommend it because I had an external head gasket leak like 10k after putting my engine together. Was leaking about a pint a day. As a last chance option before tearing it back out I dumped a bottle ($3 at the dealer) and it was cured in 1 day! Might not work for you but its worth a shot. Its been another 10k miles and no leaks same coolant. I was blown away. You could see where the gasket was blown out on top of the engine you could smell it steaming when driving.

[pleaidestar]

I wonder if that help for an internal hg leak, probably wishful thinking. It is worth a shot...would be cool just drain oil and coolant, put new and drive w/out overheating. Lol. A lot of mechanics and dealerships would be angry.

[kimokalihi]

Do it! I don't think I even drained it. Just suck a little out and pour it in.

[unsullied_spy]

Sorry man didn't mean to pop off or hijack questions in your thread...just thought it was relevant to you also.
No worries, the more help the better!

I've got about 1500 miles on the rebuild now, with the exception of rings and bearings I had the whole engine basically rebuilt. Heads were done by an excellent local machinist and I went to town on replacement parts (had to talk myself into re-sealing my stock oil pump rather than replacing it with 87k on it). Full sump of Red Line oil, fresh wires, and some NGK Iridium plugs and so far it's doing better. Before having the heads done I had my "overheating" issue even just driving home @ 60 MPH, now the only way I seem to be able to get it to overheat is to take in on the interstate and get it up to highway temp, then it still does the same thing. I'm going to pull a gauge out of a wrecked car and see if that helps at all, according to my infrared temp gauge my engine is running perfect temperatures. The big thing worrying me right now is the lower hose has been just over 40 degrees (Fahrenheit) and squishy when I've bothered to check it. This led me to think air pocket but after re-bleeding the cooling system and getting no air out of it I'm thinking that with the current weather I should hold up on the diagnostics until it's at least 50 out, then maybe I can narrow it down better.

Side note: I live at about 5,500 ft. elevation and have run everything from 85-93 octane gas through this car and it runs just the same either way so I've been running 88 octane E10 through it ever since the first HG failure. The guy that did the HG job for me took a picture of the tops of my pistons and I was blown away by how much crap had already built up on them despite using Lucas fuel system cleaner/lubricant every fill up (quieted down my noisy fuel pump, injectors run quieter, and I swear I picked up a wee bit of MPG). Somewhere in the early 2000s they upped the compression to 10:1 and as a result he said they need premium fuel, despite not having any noticeable gains in power or the way the engine runs. I'll scope my cylinders sometime in the future and see if the premium fuel makes any difference, but I thought it was strange how quickly my pistons gummed up.