View Full Version : DIY Crank Pulley Removal Tool
99gtlimited
01-22-2013, 07:49 PM
Ok, so I changed the timing belt on my mom's '01 outback last weekend and I ended up having to do some fabrication along the way. Her car is a 4EAT so locking up the crank wasn't going to be as simple as putting it in 5th gear (like I can with my 5MT BD). Long story short, I decided to fabricate a crank pulley removal tool based on the one used by Subaru.
I am a Manufacturing Engineer by trade, so I have plenty of toys and material at my disposal. I used a bit of my spare time and scrap metal to make this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/7656A665C1A54EB9B3AE332F2E7E269365790000-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/914E2BB0194C4346993F87A68ADCDB8965790000-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0686DB152FFE410EA974C006AFD9E9E865790000-1.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo250/99gtlimited/49819E36-06E2-4FAD-B4D7-8B43D189552D-6579-0000077CD62BA892.jpg
And yes, it works perfectly:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/D645937F6A5848838791E02D0F9EDEE771010000-1.jpg
The whole thing is made from 6061 AL, 3/8" plate and 1" square bar, all tightly bolted together. I CNC cut the center hole to 1.62" to line up with the hole in the pulley and give adequate access for the 22mm socket.
....and boom goes the dynamite
kimokalihi
01-22-2013, 08:44 PM
And how much you want for it?
kimokalihi
01-22-2013, 08:45 PM
It woyld also be nice to have a tool for holding the cams in place and one for holding the flywheel in place.
harrymaneuvers
01-22-2013, 09:34 PM
does the same thing that 2 3/8 extensions do in the stock pulley when combined with a prybar. There are holes in the stock pulley that are exactly the size needed to fit the 3/8 extensions.
Not dissing you... but just letting others know who might not have your tools and resources at their disposal.
Trust me... if I had your tools and resources... I would be making this too!!!!
For the cams... you can use the same method that I described as long as the heads are still on the block and you have a timing belt. Lock the crank pulley with the 3/8 extensions and pry bar and you have also locked your cam pulleys. :)
kimokalihi
01-22-2013, 10:08 PM
Ill take a look at the pulley. Not sure what you're saying but I want to lock my cams in place to make it easier to install the belt so that won't work for the cams.
grayguy
01-22-2013, 10:30 PM
Pretty fancy, I usually just jam the breaker bar against the frame rail/floor, disconnect the coil, and bump the starter :)
99gtlimited
01-22-2013, 10:56 PM
does the same thing that 2 3/8 extensions do in the stock pulley when combined with a prybar. There are holes in the stock pulley that are exactly the size needed to fit the 3/8 extensions.
Not dissing you... but just letting others know who might not have your tools and resources at their disposal.
Trust me... if I had your tools and resources... I would be making this too!!!!
I'm just going to be short with you here...
It doesn't do the same thing, this provides an even amount of force to all holes in the metal part of the pulley. Using 3/8" extensions is proven to be a dangerous and potentially costly method as it can unbalance or damage the pulley potentially causing a rather catastrophic failure. I would not suggest this.
99gtlimited
01-22-2013, 10:59 PM
Pretty fancy, I usually just jam the breaker bar against the frame rail/floor, disconnect the coil, and bump the starter :)
That would work for getting the pulley off, but when torquing the bolt down to 130 lb-ft after putting the timing belt back together I couldn't use that method.
99gtlimited
01-22-2013, 11:00 PM
And how much you want for it?
Make me an offer :grin:
kimokalihi
01-22-2013, 11:29 PM
Lol probably too much for my wallet. I don't need a fancy one. If I had a welder I'd make my own. My friend has one maybe I should make all three tools. The cam one is easy. 4 box end 17mm wrenches cut in half welder together would hold all four cams in place and the flywheel tool is super easy to make. Piece of a gear cut out and ito a small triangle and drill a hole or two into it to bolt to back of block.
99gtlimited
01-22-2013, 11:53 PM
To be honest, i don't even need this thing. I have a lightweight pulley on my car and it's a 5MT so I don't really need this. I made it for a 1 time job. If you are really interested make me an offer...
kimokalihi
01-23-2013, 02:52 AM
I'd give you $40 shipped for it. Does it clear the radiator fans?
99gtlimited
01-23-2013, 09:57 PM
It should, although I haven't tried it with them in.
I'm debating keeping this, so I'll let you know if I want to get rid of it. I would probably want to get at least 60 if I were to sell it.
kimokalihi
01-24-2013, 12:28 AM
I understand.
elislider
01-24-2013, 04:54 AM
In my experience these tools do not work very well, especially when the posts are threaded. the threads dig into the rubber and destroy the crank pulley.
all you need to do is put a wrench of screwdriver into the flex plate or flywheel teeth, and that holds it a lot better
or if you are trying to get a crank pulley off an engine that is already removed from a car, you might need an air impact or a chain vicegrip and breaker bar
99gtlimited
01-24-2013, 06:45 PM
In my experience these tools do not work very well, especially when the posts are threaded. the threads dig into the rubber and destroy the crank pulley.
all you need to do is put a wrench of screwdriver into the flex plate or flywheel teeth, and that holds it a lot better
or if you are trying to get a crank pulley off an engine that is already removed from a car, you might need an air impact or a chain vicegrip and breaker bar
You really need to read the whole thread before chiming in. There is no access to the flexplate from the backside on the '01 Outback I was using this on. I also had no intention of pulling the starter out to gain access.
The bolts seat all the way down in the holes in the steel section of the pulley, therefore there is no load on the rubber.
This was more of a "hey look what I made" thread, not looking for suggestions. It works just fine.
elislider
01-24-2013, 08:53 PM
All EJ engines have a little access hole next to the PCV/breather. thats where you jam a wrench/screwdriver.
but thats good that the bolts are long enough to get to the metal part of the pulley. that's key
99gtlimited
01-24-2013, 09:16 PM
Yeah I know where you're talking about I just didn't want to pull everything off the top of the engine since I was only doing the T-belt. Worked great, got full torque and didn't damage anything so I'm calling it a win.
harrymaneuvers
01-24-2013, 09:30 PM
I am having a hard time understanding how the 3/8th inch extensions would be any worse than a threaded bolt the same diameter???
Assuming you place the 3/8th inch extensions in the holes that make them directly opposite of eachother (inserted far enough to contact the metal)... how on earth would that method damage a pulley?!?!?!
I am not taking away from your creativity or ability to make such a tool... I am just stating the method I used to achieve the same results.
Elislider and I used the "pry bar in the flywheel access hole" method to replace the WRX crank pulley with a Perrin and we were able to access the hole perfectly fine... even with a TMIC and all the other stuff that a turbo car comes with.
I used my method with the FXT without any harm.
Also, your tool will only work for those of us that still have a stock crank pulley. Aftermarket pulleys do not retain those holes which is why I opted to NOT replace the FXT pulley with an LWCP.
kimokalihi
01-24-2013, 09:56 PM
That hole is not really accessible on my car with 06-07 tmic and td05.
elislider
01-24-2013, 10:07 PM
idk seems to not be an issue for any subaru i've ever worked on. anyways i wasnt trying to start an argument over that.
the worst part for me has always been that the access hole cover is always petrified so getting it off always makes it break and then i have to get a new one.
kimokalihi
01-24-2013, 10:20 PM
Mine won't even go back in its so hardened so I don't use it. Haven't dropped anything in the hole yet....
Reason
01-25-2013, 12:33 AM
Wow these tools dont really work well?? Where on Nasioc did you read that from?? If taken pulleys off all kinds ways. A pulley tool is by far the quickest, easiest, safest and potentially causing the least amount of damage. Ive taken off stock and aluminum pulleys and the threads dont damage anything on the pulley.
Great work once again Justin!
elislider
01-25-2013, 01:08 AM
lol i said from my PERSONAL experience they dont work very well. specifically because the posts are threaded so you risk damaging the pulley. if they were smooth posts, that would be a different story
Reason
01-25-2013, 08:43 AM
I had to say it lol, But I never had any problems. The GrimmSpeed tool has threaded bolts and works fine.
unsullied_spy
02-05-2013, 01:18 AM
Why not just put a long breaker bar on the pulley, brace it up against the driver's side frame rail, and hit the starter real quick? Doesn't work for re-installing the bolt but that's the fastest I've ever seen a crank bolt come loose!
phi11
02-05-2013, 10:03 AM
I've used the 3/8th inch extensions before, (2)
guess what, I bent both of them. (and IIrc, I enlarged the hole in the pulley too)
yeah it's a $80 tool, but it's the correct one to use. (you can rent it out to local members)
http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.as ... MgodZSgAgw (http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=148317&gclid=CPmoqou3n7UCFe1AMgodZSgAgw)
I also have the Grimmspeed tool (prototype) and it works just fine.
unsullied_spy
02-05-2013, 10:35 PM
I've used the 3/8th inch extensions before, (2)
guess what, I bent both of them. (and IIrc, I enlarged the hole in the pulley too)
yeah it's a $80 tool, but it's the correct one to use. (you can rent it out to local members)
http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.as ... MgodZSgAgw (http://www.autotoolworld.com/product.asp?itemid=148317&gclid=CPmoqou3n7UCFe1AMgodZSgAgw)
I also have the Grimmspeed tool (prototype) and it works just fine.
I swear the 1/2" breaker bar braced to the frame works brilliantly. I felt like an idiot when I first tried it because I've broken so many different tools getting other people's crank pulleys off. Just turn the key and as soon as you hear the engine actually crank it's done. The starter has more than enough torque to bust that sucker loose, just make sure not to let the engine actually start. If you hit the starter and you don't hear it try to start then that thing is really on there and you need a special tool or some other methods of getting it loose, don't hold the key down hoping it will work as you will melt your starter and wires.
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