DIY: Rally Light Pod

[GTDrifter]

First off I know that this has already been covered here: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=20161&hilit=rally+pod but in my opinion it wasn't detailed enough. Since I'm already essentially doing a diy for this for my senior project might as well toss this on here as well.

Here is a list of all the materials I used for this diy (I'll keep updating this as I purchase more supplies):
Hood - $53 from junk yard
2" x 4' x 8' foam sheet - $33.25 from Lowes
kobalt 2-peice keyhole saw - $5.98 from Lowes
razor knife - $1.69 from a local store
20" x 32" mat board - $3.00 from a local store
2 paintbrushes - $1 for both from Harbor Freight
Riveter - $5.99 from Harbor Freight
Assorted Sandpaper - $4.29 from True Value Hardware
Gorilla Glue - $4.99 from Wegmans
Body filler - $9.69 from Surplus City
Fiberglass mat - $7.89 from Surplus City
One Quart of Fiberglass Resin (Bondo) - $22.39 from Surplus City
Spreaders, mixing cups, mixing sticks (could be whatever you can find), got mine from Surplus City for $2.16 total
Spray foam (Great Stuff) - $4.27 from Wal-Mart
Double stick tape (Locktite) - $6.97 from Wal-Mart
Modeling Clay - $2.64

And here's the design and dimensions: (the lights are 2.6" thick)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/Untitled4-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/dimensionsx-1.jpg

First thing to do is make your design. I used AutoCAD to make the initial from template and then switched to Solidworks to make the 3D Model. You don't have to do this step but making a template on the computer is more symmetrical. You can get Draftsite for free to design your template, the link is provided under this paragraph along with a link for 2 designs I came up wit. First take measurements of where you'll be mounting it prior to designing it. I'll include the dimensions of mine as well as the dimensions of the lights for you guys later. If you wanna do it all by hand go for it but you'll need a compass and ruler.
http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/download-draftsight/
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mwfzxedg7vz2a6/Rally%20Light%20Pod%20Designs.dwg

I'll be checking my design on a second and third gen leggy tomorrow to see how it looks. If you're going the "print off computer" way than here's how you can print it from draftsite:
Click File
Print
Select your printer
Uncheck the "fit to paper" box
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step1hx-1.jpg

Set the scale to 1:1
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step2by-1.jpg

Click "specify"
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step3or-1.jpg

I have these separated into 6 quadrants, those green boxes are the size of a typical sheet of printer paper. Window one and print it. Repeat this for the other 5 quadrants. (sorry there's no other way to do this that I know of)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step4d-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step5sb-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step6ps-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/step7m-1.jpg

If you want to change between the print quadrants, the drawing, and the dimensions here's how you do it:
Click the window circled in blue
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/visible1-1.jpg

The 3 selections windowed in red are the ones you need
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/visible2-1.jpg

If the little circle circled in red is white than the selection is invisible, if it's green it's visible
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/visible3-1.jpg

And when you bondo you don't need much hardener. This shows a good relationship of hardener to bondo.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131526_zps34f85895-1.jpg


If you design it on the computer print it off. You may have to do multiple prints and put them together, which is what I did. If your drawing it by hand then draw it directly on the mat board. Mat board is basically a thick sheet of paper. My board was 1/8" thick but construction paper or carboard will do the trick as well. If you printed it then tape it to the board. Cut the board around your design and this will be your template.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0123131452-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0123131511-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0123131629-1.jpg

Once you have it all cut out place your template on the foam sheet and cut just outside of your template, about an inch or two. Once it's cut out put your template on the cut out foam and trace the design. I traced it with the razor but you could also use a sharpie. Once finished you could start cutting the design out of the foam. I found it easy to cut a bunch of straight lines taking off small chunks and lightly touching the traced line. Once it's all cut down then I used 36 grit sandpaper to take off all the rough edges and used 100 grit to get it kind of smooth.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0123131639-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0128132159-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0128132159a_zps77c9b3e5-1.jpg

Here's where I have to explain something. My project is to make a mold for this and thermoform the parts. To make this happen I have to make it in 2 sections but other than that it's essentially the same. I gave 2.75" from the front of the housing to where it begins to taper. Since the foam is 2" thick this will be tricky. You could cut out another sheet of foam using the template and cut out an outline. I did this by first cutting the foam in half to make it 1" thick. This is a severe pain but basically just measure 1" all the way around the thickness. Cut down pretty far with your razor knife and then cut out pieces with a bunch of straight cuts and use all the outside pieces. You might wanna label what goes where to make this easier.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0128131838-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0128131838a-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0128132035a-1.jpg


Elmers glue worked ok but due to sanding and all I went a little higher strength. Got Gorilla glue from Wegmans which works pretty nice. I also ditched the multiple outside pieces and cut the outside outline off of the other 1/2 of the foam. The foam in the pic is 1" thick from when I cut it in half. I didnt get a pic of it seated but will snap a pic after the glue dries.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0129130937-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0129131458-1.jpg

Once the glue is dried the two pieces will most likely not match up perfectly, sand the sides down to make them straight.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0130131401-1.jpg

Polyester fiberglass resin will eat the foam so you need a shielding layer. The other diy used packaging tape which seems to be a pain if you get any wrinkles. I originally tried plaster which worked but chipped a little too easy on corners so bondo it is. The bondo eats the foam a little bit but I plan to use 2-3 layers of bondo to counteract this. Again, if you're doing one light pod then you can make this all in one piece rather than in 2 like I am. If you want to make a mold to produce a couple then do it in 2 pieces.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0130131353-1.jpg

I started on the other half today. I cut all the pieces needed to do the other half. Next I'll be getting the foam to contour to the hood and then shape it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0205131458_zps680172ad-1.jpg

I tried to mount the foam pieces to the hood using awesome double sided tape but it wouldn't stick. It stuck two pieces of foam together pretty nice but when I wanted to stick it to the hood it didn't wanna cooperate, I don't know what happened so I scrapped that idea. Instead I put a layer of fiberglass on the hood and will glue the foam to the fiberglass with gorilla glue. Then I'll fill in the voids with expandable foam, sand it all down, apply bondo, sand some more, and mate it up with the first half. Once finished I'll then put fiberglass across both halves at the same time and then cut them apart so they match up perfectly. After that I'll remove the fiberglass from the foam and duct tape the two halves together. Then I'll wax the back half of the mold and add a fiberglass lip/guide to the front half. I haven't done this yet as I am waiting for the fiberglass to cure. Also, I know in the pic I didn't put resin on the entire sheet of fiberglass. This is because I will be cutting it to the edge of the foam so when I put the top layer on it will allow the fiberglass mold to contour to the hood itself rather than having a space.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0206130009a_zps02730c63-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0206130010_zps14f91976-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0206130038_zpsd1d134d2-1.jpg

I used locktite double stick tape to attach the first (front) sheet of foam to the hood and used some spray expandable foam to help hold it at the angle I wanted and also help keep it to the fiberglass. I then cut the contour of the hood into the other layers of foam and added them one by one to the hood using double stick tape on the bottom and in between each layer. I also used gorilla glue in between each layer and on the last layer put some expandable foam in between the layers just to see what happens. I put more expandable foam under the foam layers to build strength so I don't accidently crush it. (I cut the centers higher up so I didn't have to contour the entire layer to the hood, just two small feet.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0212130114_zpsa0f121ac-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0212130115_zps8103a40b-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0212130115a_zpsecfde50c-1.jpg

From here sand down the foam in an arch or whatever shape you please. Then add bondo and sand it smooth. I'll have to contour mine specifically to the first half so it all matches up perfect but if you're doing a one piece then it should already be attached and sand it all together.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0220131924_zps208467be-1.jpg

I found that it was easier to use the spray foam can and sandpaper to get the curves between each light housing
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0220131922_zps747accf3-1.jpg

Apply bondo and sand smooth, and if there's any holes than you could use spot putty and sand it smooth again
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0220132208_zps64bd5b0a-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226130056a_zpsc9c1a708-1.jpg

And I did some testing. Once bondowork is finished and smooth than add some paint, well a lot of paint. This way you can wax the mold to apply the fiberglass. I did a test and duplicolor paint works well. Did two heavy coats and it came out nice. The only reason there's scratches is because I didn't feel like sanding it smooth...it was sanded with 40 grit sandpaper very poorly.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226130056_zpsfee951e0-1.jpg

If you are doing two parts like me, cut out the bottom portion of the front half enough to clear the hood. You might not need this step depending on where you put the other half on the hood. Also, again with the 2 part mold. You could attach the two halves with gorilla glue and spot putty (since the glue sets in 1-2 hours and the spot putty sets in 20 minutes). Painters tape and excess foam can help hold it together.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226131026_zpse0bc7232-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226131548_zpsa91d67be-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226131548b_zps544d90c9-1.jpg

After they're together, get the edges as close to the same as possible and you could bondo the rest to make it flow together.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0226132150_zpsf1ee30f8-1.jpg

Sand it all down nice and smooth. Again, I used 40 grit and 100 grit to do the job. Make sure all holes are filled and smooth.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131705_zps6bd0ce76-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131707_zps0940e5ac-1.jpg

Once everything is smooth and even you can now pop the fiberglass with the mold off of the hood. This is where you learn if you waxed good or not. My roomate and myself used a putty knife, scrapers, and eventually 65 lbs fishing line and sawed back and forth to separate fiberglass from hood. WARNING: Do NOT even think about using resin from surplus city. I used it for half of the fiberglass and it ate through the paint, took over 2 weeks to fully cure, and was hard as hell to remove.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131725_zps4b93a0f3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131725a_zpsc0b5e461-1.jpg

Cut the excess fiberglass away from the mold. You could use anything from razorknives to hacksaws. I used a dremel with a cut off wheel and it took no time at all.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131736_zpsccf03581-1.jpg

Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the next step. Put bondo around the edge going from the mold to the fiberglass (I didn't want to cut too close) and then sand it smooth. This makes a nicer transition to the hood and lowers the risk of cutting into the mold by accident. Go over the mold and make sure it is all perfect to your liking. Once finished sand it with 220 grit sandpaper to make it extra smooth.

Place the finished mold back on the hood and sit behind the hood while making car noises and act like a child.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227131842_zps126502a0-1.jpg

Once your imaginary rally is finished and you placed first, start painting the mold. I don't know how well bondo itself waxes but paint will make the mold look nicer anyway. Start with a slight spray for the first coat, once dried add heavier coats. I have one light coat and 2 heavy coats on mine. One small can of duplicolor paint did the entire mold for each coat totalling 3 cans used so far.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0227132340_zps94a59d87-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0228130010a_zps61dbd47e-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0228130010b_zps3b286a09-1.jpg

Once completed wax the mold and the hood. Place double stick tape on the bottom of the mold and place it on the hood. Go around the perimeter of the mold where it meets the hood, chances are there will be a gap, jam clay in there and use a razor blade to make it flat.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0304132043_zps29bf1b77-1.jpg

Now wax everything again and then apply the fiberglass. Some areas you'll need to cut slits in to help it contour to the shape. If you're only making one than this will be your part. Use a paintbrush to apply the resin and basically stab the air bubbles out. Make sure you saturate the fiberglass over the hood about 2 inches for a flange. Apply at least 3 layers of fiberglass and make sure you have enough resin before you start. I ran out when I was almost done and had to run for more, causing 2 imperfections that I had to try and work out and hope it works. I used one layer for flexibility to help get it separated from the mold.
When I did my test piece I noticed that the paint came off with the fiberglass but it scraped off really easy.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0304132310_zpseed8f447-1.jpg

After the resin has cured you can remove the fiberglass from the mold. If you're only making one than use any means necessary to remove the foam. You can use acetone to reduce the foam. It doesn't eat the polystyrene but pops all the bubbles that are in the foam. Then you can scoop it out. You could also try to "pop" it off the mold by using putty knives to separate the fiberglass from the mold. I had to cut through the fiberglass where the two halves of the mold were assembled and also where the lights will be cut out. Then used a butter knife (which broke) and a putty knife to start popping the fiberglass from the mold. You can also hit the fiberglass with a hammer; this will shock the pieces apart. You can tell what's popped by the paint color not showing through the fiberglass.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0305130304Copy_zpsfbd540e0-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0305131451aCopy_zps5f6da2dc-1.jpg
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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0306131521Copy_zpsede98f23-1.jpg

I kinda sorta failed to wax it good enough so let this be a lesson to you all who attempt this. Wax wax wax and if you have doubts of it not being good enough wax it agian.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0306131521aCopy_zps1b300042-1.jpg

Notice the paint that pulled off with the fiberglass. This easily scraped off with a straight razor and a scraper. It's still a little bit red but it won't affect anything.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0306131553_zpsfbbc5fa3-1.jpg
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Duct tape the two halves back together and wax the side you don't want the aligning flange on. Then apply the fiberglass to create the flange. You'll notice I always leave some unsaturated fiberglass, it's just what I do and it makes it a little easier to remove.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0306132119a_zps72f86780-1.jpg
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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0306132151_zpsbf8b5e57-1.jpg

Test fitting before I got the chance to trim
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0307130951b_zpsc57498fd-1.jpg
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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0307130952_zps6a32e28a-1.jpg

Trim the flange to your liking, drill the mounting holes, cut out holes for the foglights, and finish it up. (Mine's not cut out for casting purposes.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/01/0320131023_zpsc3be60f8-1.jpg

And that brings this project up to where I currently am at.

[chuckthefuk]

subscribed

[phi11]

nice! also subscribed.

[98legwag]

Very interested to see how this turns out.

[GTDrifter]

Update: Used Gorilla glue instead of Elmers, added a link for draftsite if you choose to use it and ditched the pieced outside for a solid outside.

[GTDrifter]

added a link for 2 designs to be opened in draftsite

[GTDrifter]

dimensions added, printing instructions added.

[GTDrifter]

update, more supplies purchased and tips about prepping the foam for fiberglass

[chrish8r]

This light pod is going to turn out really nice!!! Keep up the good work

[GTDrifter]

Thanks!! Just a small update, pretty much done applying bondo to the first half. My computers hard drive fried today so updating will be delayed until I get it all fixed. If you're doing one part you make in one solid piece and then bondo but since I'm doing a mold it has to be in 2 pieces

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

SUBSCRIBED!

[GTDrifter]

updated, also fixed the one random large pic that was making the screen too wide

[GTDrifter]

I used my old wal mart bondo brand resin for half of the fiberglass when I put it on the hood. I used resin from surplus city for the other half. The surplus city shit hasn't cured after 2 days. The wal mart stuff was good to go overnight but this surplus city stuff is junk. Time to rip it off and start all over

[nikolaus.conrad]

Subscribed!

[GTDrifter]

After a week the surplus city resin still wasn't fully cured. I'm only using it to mount the foam to the hood for the time being. It was dry enough to not eat the foam so I updated the first post with my progress. I'm planning on pulling an all-nighter tonight to get as much done as possible.

[foohfooh]

dude your crazy. lol are you a senior in college? cuz it looks like your doing this in your dorm room. if i was your roommate i would hate you

[GTDrifter]

dude your crazy. lol are you a senior in college? cuz it looks like your doing this in your dorm room. if i was your roommate i would hate you
yes lol. I get to hear my one roommate complain of the smell every single day haha

[GTDrifter]

Let's just say my one roommate wasn't happy with me cutting and sanding at 4am. Time flies lol

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

Let's just say my one roommate wasn't happy with me cutting and sanding at 4am. Time flies lol

Was it Tyler? hahaha

[GTDrifter]

Let's just say my one roommate wasn't happy with me cutting and sanding at 4am. Time flies lol

Was it Tyler? hahaha
No lol. One of my other roommates

[GTDrifter]

updated

[drtylggy]

Speechless. Subscribed.

[GTDrifter]

and another update

also I will be using Tegris thermoplatic composite sheet for my production part!! This stuff has 50x the impact strength of carbon fiber. It is used in bullet proofing, nascar, indy cars, and rally cars. Really cool stuff!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/dome_zps01db1d93-1.jpg

[GTDrifter]

original post updated...more progress is being made tonight and a lot tomorrow. Hopefully the fiberglass prototype will be completed by tomorrow night. If so then this DIY is technically finished and I'll just update it as I make a production mold for the thermoformer and start pumping one of these puppies out every 5 minutes

[nikolaus.conrad]

Awesome! Hook me up if I get an Impreza :wink:

[drtylggy]

This is absolutely awesome and I don't mean to sound like an idiot but it may look cooler with the back sweeping more, seems to just stop abruptly.

[GTDrifter]

This is absolutely awesome and I don't mean to sound like an idiot but it may look cooler with the back sweeping more, seems to just stop abruptly.
No worries. Do you mean to curve into the hood more in the back? I wanted it to look a bit different than how it turned out but shit happens and after having over 30 hours sunk into shaping this thing I didn't feel like changing it lol

And nik, depending on how much abs my teacher let's me waste making these and how much time I can have the machine for rules how many I can make but if I have any extras you'll get one. I do wanna try reforming one to a different hood.

[nikolaus.conrad]

No worries! I have an extra Legacy hood if your interested :wink:

[GTDrifter]

No worries! I have an extra Legacy hood if your interested :wink:
to borrow? lol I have no room to store another big part. already have front and rear bumpers for the outback, front and rear bumpers for the rs, 2 extra hoods for the rs, and all the other crap we stockpiled

[drtylggy]

How large is your dorm room?! :shock: And I know what you mean with time, still looks really good though :smt023

[GTDrifter]

the project takes up about 1/4 of the living room, we still have a closet, kitchen, bathroom, hallway with 2 closets, and 2 bedrooms

its pretty nice for a dorm room

Thanks for the support guys!!

[drtylggy]

Wow, I'd say.

[GTDrifter]

The mold is almost completed. looks like it will be fiberglassed by tonight :grin:

[nikolaus.conrad]

Holy shit dude lmao

[GTDrifter]

She's off and trimmed. Once the bondo sets I can finish making the edges in contact with the hood nice and smooth and then its time to fiberglass!!!!!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/0227131842_zps1518b123-1.jpg

[GTDrifter]

no fiberglass til next week. forgot that I had to paint the pod, wax, THEN fiberglass. Painting phase is in affect now and will be finished tonight. Then I go home for the weekend and will fiberglass next week. First post will be updated.

[GTDrifter]

12 hours of progress, original post updated.

[GTDrifter]

fiberglass is finished. I'll update after my phone charges...it has a tendency to die after 7 hours

[GTDrifter]

updated, check the first post.

waiting for the resin to cure to continue work

[GTDrifter]

Got them separated again but taped them back together for test fitting without getting a pic. Let me know what you guys think...makes me feel this diy is worth the work to type

[BDAlex95]

Keep working on it, it will probably look amazing!

[nikolaus.conrad]

I feel it is, I've been reading up on your progress as you post!

[GTDrifter]

Good lol

[GTDrifter]

test fit pics are up, check the first post

[drtylggy]

.... LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!! :shock: That, sir, will be one nice car to drive at night, my god.

[GTDrifter]

Test fitting on quite a few cars to see what it'll fit with minor reforming (since its plastic it'll be simple) which I will post pics and fitment list later on

[GTDrifter]

I'm quite excited about this project. I have a company that is interested in producing these and the fact that they are basically universal since they fit many cars with minor reworking is incredible.
Remember it'll be plastic so a little heat and it can be shaped to fit the following:

First gen legacy
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0312131855_zpsaaeb257a-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0312131855a_zps21fcb305-1.jpg

Third gen legacy, thanks to 04Legacy for using his car
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0307132204_zps1257a812-1.jpg

Second gen forester
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0309131757_zpse013244a-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0309131757a_zps864e0f44-1.jpg

Justy
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0312131856_zps29c0dc9d-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0312131857_zps892ef37f-1.jpg

03 explorer
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0309131758a_zps88267b28-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0309131758_zps03a87459-1.jpg

Will NOT fit:
Fourth gen legacy (sorry guys)


There are many others I would like to test fitment including bugeye, blobeye, hawkeye Impreza, second gen legacy, first and third gen forester, and other makes such as Mazda and Mitsubishi.

[GTDrifter]

And I repaired the prototype, just gotta smooth the outside front half so it'll be smooth when we cast the mold and trim up the edges. Then we can make the vacuum box, cast the mold, drill vacuum holes, and start making parts =D
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0312132130_zps7de60a9e-1.jpg

[nikolaus.conrad]

Sick!!!!! I wonder if one will fit on the Spitfire!! :grin: :lol:

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

I still want one for the WRX!

[GTDrifter]

Sick!!!!! I wonder if one will fit on the Spitfire!! :grin: :lol:
Bring it to wilpo lol


And chad if I am able to make a bunch you'll get one

[Muse]

Aw, if it does wind up fitting a 2nd gen legacy, I would love to rock one. Have you given any thought to pricing?

[GTDrifter]

Aw, if it does wind up fitting a 2nd gen legacy, I would love to rock one. Have you given any thought to pricing?
Unfortunately no. I have no idea how many I'll be able to produce and if I do plan to sell them than I'll have to buy the plastic sheet. I'll find out how much the sheet costs and see about pricing from there.

How much do you guys think it should cost?

[Muse]

I'm hoping sub-$100, but I'd expect more than that, if you plan to make decent profit... then again, I'm not sure what the plastic sheet would cost you.

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

Sick!!!!! I wonder if one will fit on the Spitfire!! :grin: :lol:
Bring it to wilpo lol


And chad if I am able to make a bunch you'll get one

Whatever it costs to make one, I'll give it to you.

[nikolaus.conrad]

I don't have a problem paying what ever the cost is :wink:

[Muse]

I don't have a problem paying what ever the cost is :wink:
Morally, I don't either. The spirit's willing, but the wallet might not be.

[GTDrifter]

I don't have a problem paying what ever the cost is :wink:
Morally, I don't either. The spirit's willing, but the wallet might not be.
Yeah them wallets never like lending money out...they're so greedy

[Muse]

Eh, that's working at Dominos for ya.

[GTDrifter]

Got it all trimmed and looking great, added resin to the front half so when we cast the mold it'll be smooth

[GTDrifter]

Got one of my vacuum boxes ready, just need to seal it. Gotta make one more vacuum box and cast both molds and its production time!!!!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/03/0320131507_zps820417d1-1.jpg

[nikolaus.conrad]

Sweeeeeet

[GTDrifter]

just finished the prototype mold...again

It's all repaired and sanded down with 1,000 grit. It was decided that it would cast a better mold if we made the front cast off of the prototype mold due to the fiberglass resin not wanting to be flat. The back half will be cast off of the fiberglass prototype.

I will be completing to first vacuum box tomorrow and hopefully be finished the second vacuum box tomorrow or wednesday. Then gotta wait for the 2 part ceramic to arrive and I can't see casting taking more than a day or two. MAYBE some finished parts 2 weeks from now.

[GTDrifter]

found out today that I could maybe sell them for $60 each prior to shipping but I'll have to buy the sheet. And I might be able to make a dozen. It all depends on if I can get time on the machine to produce that amount.

[Muse]

Is this designed for a specific make of light, or just a certain size?

[GTDrifter]

Is this designed for a specific make of light, or just a certain size?
specifically hella 500ff but I'll sell them uncut on the front so you can cut it to whatever light you feel like using, even 30 1" lights if that's what you're into :smt023

[GTDrifter]

Tomorrow I'll be finishing the vacuum boxes. Thursday my casting material comes in and it should all be cast that day. Molds will be completely finished Tuesday and we could be making parts Tuesday or Wednesday. Fingers crossed

[GTDrifter]

Bad news. I really wanted to make one out of Tegris, a 100% polypropylene thermoplastic composite comparable to carbon fiber but it's not good for my process as it shrinks too much and requires way too much pressure...about 6 times what our huge machine could put out. ABS it is

[nikolaus.conrad]

Damn! As long as its made :smt023

[GTDrifter]

Damn! As long as its made :smt023
Yeah. Good thing is that we can do anything thickness so if 1/8 inch isn't rigid enough I can run something heavier

[Sub-Goon]

found out today that I could maybe sell them for $60 each prior to shipping but I'll have to buy the sheet. And I might be able to make a dozen. It all depends on if I can get time on the machine to produce that amount.

I'm liking that price! Hoping you find a 2nd Gen Legacy to test fit! Subscribed!

[Neatfellen]

wow, crazy build.. i would have lost focus by now I think haha.

[GTDrifter]

gotta keep focus. One of the more celebrity-like members of the industry is impressed by this project so much that he wants to put it in the society's magazine which would make it the third time I have appeared in said magazine :grin:

update: finishing casting one of the molds tomorrow...I had to order more material and I think I'll need another one. At $100 a kit its nerveracking the amount of money this mold is costing me

Just gotta keep reminding myself that it may land me a 70k+ job

[Neatfellen]

well dam, that's great motivation

[GTDrifter]

well dam, that's great motivation
yup lol It's supposed to be done this week but must be finished next week so within 2 weeks I'll definitely have a part

[Neatfellen]

awesome good luck!

[GTDrifter]

awesome good luck!
thanks man!

[GTDrifter]

pouring the mold. ended up using a hole saw to cut a larger hole since the funnel method took so long the cast started to set.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG00151_zps2b102e56-1.jpg

And these are Izod impact tests. Using a 30 foot/lb hammer and comparing fiberglass to this Tegris material. Note the Tegris didn't break but instead just kinda twisted. Strong stuff
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG00111_zpsfae7bf05-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG00121_zpsb1e6b5a0-1.jpg

[GTDrifter]

Got one mold completely cast and will be demolded tomorrow. Waiting for the material in the buckets to cure enough so I can easily remove it and finish casting the second mold which currently is half done. That will be demolded tomorrow as well and we can finish it all up tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I won't be able to make a part until friday but we'll see what treasures tomorrow brings.

So after 137 current hours and almost $900 the mold is almost ready. Now I'm thinking it would have been better to just glue sheets of plywood together and have the machine shop machine it. It's too bad most of them are too incompitant to do so (since they screwed up a mold twice in the past)

EDIT: second mold is cast

[Neatfellen]

lol sorry to hear the machine shop didn't have the ability needed to same you some money and time.

[GTDrifter]

lol sorry to hear the machine shop didn't have the ability needed to same you some money and time.
no biggy. Those molds tend to start splitting after a few parts anyway. At least my current molds are made of a strong urethane, basically like ceramic

Here's my favorite pic of the day: a pic of the last mold finished being cast. And I still have some left over.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0020_zpsb5da05c0-1.jpg (http://s258.photobucket.com/user/GTDrifter/media/IMAG0020_zpsb5da05c0.jpg.html)

[GTDrifter]

I wanted post number 2500 to be the following:

Both molds are completed, both molds were set up in the machine, and both molds formed 4 parts!!!!!!!!!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0031_zps08b7fd9e-1.jpg

Videos
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/th_VIDEO0002_zps1325c341-1.jpg (http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh248/GTDrifter/VIDEO0002_zps1325c341.mp4)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/th_VIDEO0004_zpsaef0fc04-1.jpg (http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh248/GTDrifter/VIDEO0004_zpsaef0fc04.mp4)

[Muse]

Very cool.

[Neatfellen]

awesome to hear! Mission: Complete?

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

That is freaking awesome!

[GTDrifter]

awesome to hear! Mission: Complete?
Mission complete. Just need to trim and install, finish the report, and make a presentation

[GTDrifter]

Oh, and after I get a job I can drop my molds and material off at the college and they'll make parts for me, they might even trim them and everything so I could sell them

[Sub-Goon]

Sweet! Thats good to hear!

[GTDrifter]

Almost finished. Go figure I just needed one rivet....

[Neatfellen]

well good luck with the presentation! What an interview piece! Way to separate urself from the field

[GTDrifter]

well good luck with the presentation! What an interview piece! Way to separate urself from the field
Thanks man!

[GTDrifter]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0037_zpsa2ba0f76-1.jpg

[Sub-Goon]

Wow! That looks awesome! I think you need a second alternator!

[Neatfellen]

Ha looks awesome! Great job!

[GTDrifter]

Thanks guys. It's hooked up half assed just to make sure it all works. It'll get prettied up tomorrow and I gotta make a bracket to hold the front down tomorrow

[Neatfellen]

post a pic of what it looks like from the "cockpit" and yes with that many lights that is a cockpit not the driver seat haha.

[GTDrifter]

I'll get road pics tomorrow when I tidy everything up
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0038_zpsc21d5816-1.jpg

[Neatfellen]

wow its not even rly that noticable! I figured it would look way bigger from behind the wheel! Awesome design job

[Muse]

That is far, far too badass. I definitely need one.

[Neatfellen]

^ agreed!

[GTDrifter]

^ agreed!
All wired up and installed. Pics to come later

[redlegacygt]

Great job man! and congrats on the new job as well!

[GTDrifter]

Great job man! and congrats on the new job as well!
Thanks astin!

Rally pod in finished and I just gotta figure out the stock fog light button wiring to make it look nicer. The report is completed and I gotta send it to 4 people to make sure its good. Presentation won't take long at all.

I'm hoping this gets me a job in pa at least because I really wanna stay away from Detroit and that way I can go to stpr

[Neatfellen]

stpr?

[GTDrifter]

stpr?
Susquehanna trail performance rally in wellsboro, pa

[redlegacygt]

But if your in Detroit, you could at least attend Snodrift... haha

[Neatfellen]

well now u put it that way and i wish i was there haha, as soon as you said rally :P

[GTDrifter]

yeah, two parts were assembled and installed but have been removed since it looks like my hood latch would snap. Hood pins would probably be a good idea.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0043_zpscb278ed8-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0042_zpsd9feac74-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0044_zpsebc192ce-1.jpg

[Sub-Goon]

That looks awesome!

[Muse]

Sign me up for one!

In theory, at least...

[redlegacygt]

yeah, two parts were assembled and installed but have been removed since it looks like my hood latch would snap. Hood pins would probably be a good idea.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0043_zpscb278ed8-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0042_zpsd9feac74-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/04/IMAG0044_zpsebc192ce-1.jpg
I know right where that third pic was lol great work.

[GTDrifter]

Thanks Astin. Showing it off to the Amish lol

[Neatfellen]

It looks amazing. So it does shut fully with that on there just with strain correct?

[GTDrifter]

It looks amazing. So it does shut fully with that on there just with strain correct?
The hood? It just sits on top of the hood, I just have a shitty bent mangled hood lol

[Neatfellen]

OOOOH... haha that makes sense then, i was wondering since I hadn't remembered you saying anything in this write-up about it hooking under the hood and there was no design for that!

[GTDrifter]

yeah, I went with a thicker and stiffer material for the front. It's 1/4" Kydex T (ABS and PVC) much more stable and I was able to go without the metal bracket.

But yeah it just bolts on the back flange and on the side towards the front. easy cake

[Neatfellen]

stay on through rough rides even?

[GTDrifter]

stay on through rough rides even?
haven't tested many bumps but if you've ever been through schuylkill county, well, you might have well been offroad. Potholes everywhere

stays put at 95mph but I didn't really wanna test bumps with just the pins in. I'd rather have it bolted before I try that

[amgarrety]

I get the feeling that Schuylkill county is a lot darker than most places.

No, but really, this looks great! Any pictures of it on the road at night? I'm curious to see how much of the road it lights up.

[GTDrifter]

I get the feeling that Schuylkill county is a lot darker than most places.

No, but really, this looks great! Any pictures of it on the road at night? I'm curious to see how much of the road it lights up.
Not right now. I have kept it off the car since I remade it. At least until my presentation for it is over so it doesn't break.

[GTDrifter]

thanks everyone for the comments!

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

I just realized this wouldn't work for my car. I kind need my hood scoop to collect air.....poo! Looks like I need to go FMIC! lol

[Neatfellen]

very good plan save it until after it gets you he job lol

[drtylggy]

Wow, that looks mean! :twisted: Very nice man. Good luck on that presentation, can't wait to see night photos.

[Neatfellen]

any new jobs? Lol

[GTDrifter]

Presentation went awesome and the guy publishing my report is sending out my resume. I might just stay at ford because of the opportunity to move up in a huge company. I'll already be at their headquarters

[GTDrifter]

Presentation went awesome and the guy publishing my report is sending out my resume. I might just stay at ford because of the opportunity to move up in a huge company. I'll already be at their headquarters

[Muse]

Hey, you figure out a finalized price for these? I saw the pictures of it on Nik's OB and I think I need one...

[nikolaus.conrad]

Presentation went awesome and the guy publishing my report is sending out my resume. I might just stay at ford because of the opportunity to move up in a huge company. I'll already be at their headquarters
So you'll be making rally pods for Ken Block's Fiesta huh? :wink:

your double posting skills are awesome btw :smt023

[Neatfellen]

another question too, how hard is it to hook up and make functional? also is it something that's easily removable?

[GTDrifter]

I'm thinking $75 prior to shipping. But a better mold will be made before these get produced. And thanks nick lol.

Also easy to install. Basically put it on the car and use a heat gun or hair dryer to reshape the flange. Drill holes and bolt it. The lights themselves will need brackets riveted on

[Sub-Goon]

I'm thinking $75 prior to shipping. But a better mold will be made before these get produced. And thanks nick lol.

Also easy to install. Basically put it on the car and use a heat gun or hair dryer to reshape the flange. Drill holes and bolt it. The lights themselves will need brackets riveted on

I'm not suggesting you jack the price, but that seems low for what it is and how much work you did! Good job!

That was good planning with the mounting. Simple is definitely the way to go! I'm really impressed with how many different Subies this fits!

[GTDrifter]

I'm thinking $75 prior to shipping. But a better mold will be made before these get produced. And thanks nick lol.

Also easy to install. Basically put it on the car and use a heat gun or hair dryer to reshape the flange. Drill holes and bolt it. The lights themselves will need brackets riveted on

I'm not suggesting you jack the price, but that seems low for what it is and how much work you did! Good job!

That was good planning with the mounting. Simple is definitely the way to go! I'm really impressed with how many different Subies this fits!
Thanks man! Apparently hella makes a pod for $500

[Neatfellen]

damn that's expensive. Haha. U'll burst their market at ur price!

[GTDrifter]

Got a question for everyone. What would you pay for one of these? Honestly too don't worry about offending me or anything. I already have a price set in my head for when the new mold is made and I start producing so none of your answers will affect anything. I'm just curious since I've had one guy offer good money for one and another guy try to steal one lol

[Muse]

Welllll... I'm broke. So if it's over a hundo, it's not likely to be on my car. Especially since I would have to buy the lights still.

[phi11]

$250, plus shipping
do a group buy @ $200, w/over 30 ppl

[Neatfellen]

to be honest I probably would if I had a spare hood that I could just leave it on. I'm not a fan of drilling into my hood, no offense cuz its still a great set up and everything. Just I would prefer the option of being able to switch it out and have a clean look too. Nothing against ur product at all cuz I would totally take the time to switch back and forth if I had a spare hood.

[GTDrifter]

Thanks for the comments guys. Its hypotherptical so everyone's Bill Gates and has a spare hood lol

[Neatfellen]

Hahaha if I were bill gates I'd have more than a spare hood but yeah if we were to go hypothetically hech yes I would buy it and prolly never take it off in winter to be honest :P

[nikolaus.conrad]

Thanks for the comments guys. Its hypotherptical so everyone's Bill Gates and has a spare hood lol
I've got like four :grin: :smt023

[Thomistopheles]

$250, plus shipping
do a group buy @ $200, w/over 30 pplThis sounds reasonable to me.

[couchfuzzy]

being almost 20 year old cars, if these only fit the second gens i cant see you selling more than a handful if its too high,

if theyre universal (relatively) go crazy bro

[GTDrifter]

being almost 20 year old cars, if these only fit the second gens i cant see you selling more than a handful if its too high,

if theyre universal (relatively) go crazy bro
You must have missed the list lol

Fits the following:
First, second, third, and fourth gen Impreza
First, second, third gen legacy
Second gen forester
First gen justy
03 ford explorer

Those are just what I was able to get my hands on so its basically universal. Will not fit 09 gen legacy

[GTDrifter]

$250, plus shipping
do a group buy @ $200, w/over 30 pplThis sounds reasonable to me.
Definitely sounds good. Again new one-piece molds would be machined first so they're perfect

[Muse]

Ouch... Pricing it out of my reach there.

[GTDrifter]

Ouch... Pricing it out of my reach there.
Dont worry SLi would be getting more of a discount and first group buy. After its finished it'll get thrown to other forums

Pod version 2 is being thought out. I might even venture into whole hoods since I thought of how ridiculously simple it would be. That's way down the line though

[Sub-Goon]

I guess I'm really going to have to get on top of my car and do some performance, wheel/tire & especially exhaust work! Cause that pod would look rediculous on a stock sounding car!

[couchfuzzy]

in for group buy!

[nikolaus.conrad]

Pod version 2 is being thought out. I might even venture into whole hoods since I thought of how ridiculously simple it would be. That's way down the line though
Baller Status.

[GTDrifter]

I guess I'm really going to have to get on top of my car and do some performance, wheel/tire & especially exhaust work! Cause that pod would look rediculous on a stock sounding car!
Just cut off the axle back haha

[Rudeboy47]

Plz keep me posted on this! I want one for my subi!

[Sub-Goon]

I guess I'm really going to have to get on top of my car and do some performance, wheel/tire & especially exhaust work! Cause that pod would look rediculous on a stock sounding car!
Just cut off the axle back haha
Ahh! Well that might work for me, but its literally the "Family Wagon"! Gotta get the ladys car running again so I wont get grief for doing what I want to the Goon!

[Thomistopheles]

Ditching the muffler is not nearly as loud as you'd think. I cut off my muffler and extended the pipe to the bumper.

[Sub-Goon]

Ditching the muffler is not nearly as loud as you'd think. I cut off my muffler and extended the pipe to the bumper.

Well the other big reason is that I reside in the great Liberal Police State of Cali, where it would likely result in a ticket and it would definitely fail smog test.

I'm keeping an eye out for an STi take off! Any other suggestions or local offers accepted, over at my MR1 thread(see sig)!

Ok, I'm done with the hi-jack! My apologies!

[GTDrifter]

Just an update. My report is being published in the industries magazine at the end of this month. I have also decided that once I get drafting software again ill make the necessary changes and send it off to my old college to remake the molds and produce a couple. From there ill probably recast a new long term mold and have them make a bunch but that's to be decided later

[xoSubieLegacyxo]

Just an update. My report is being published in the industries magazine at the end of this month. I have also decided that once I get drafting software again ill make the necessary changes and send it off to my old college to remake the molds and produce a couple. From there ill probably recast a new long term mold and have them make a bunch but that's to be decided later

Congrats on the publishing. Post a link to the article when it becomes available.

[GTDrifter]

Ill try. It might be just for members though

[davewilson]

just came across this thread (i made the other light pod thread)... nicely done man! looks sick!!

[Sub-Goon]

Lately, Ive been wondering when this was going to be available!

[GTDrifter]

just came across this thread (i made the other light pod thread)... nicely done man! looks sick!!
Thanks man, I used yours as a guide lol

I don't know when I can afford to remake the molds, its also difficult not having a computer anymore and being 10 hours away from my college...I'm also mote concentrated on getting SLi emblems prototyped again, this time eoth a better process

[argyle409]

Came across this thread an just wanted to give the OP some big props on your through design process and your attention to detail with documenting your process, really nice work! How did you go about dimensioning the pod in CAD, did you have a model of your car or did you just make sizes that made sense and through trial an error of printing choose a size that looked good? I would be using solidworks to mock this up in, I'm also pondering 3D printing it while still in school (I can print anything, so long I pay tuition lol so taking advantage of it) but making it fit flush with the hood is my only concern and there's not '07 Outback on Grabcad.com haha. If you have your CAD file still an don't mind sharing it pm me, thanks!

[GTDrifter]

I don't suggest 3d printing...in my experience it's too brittle and would take a long time.

Solidworks is my tool of choice so I can send you the file, let me look for it. I started with the lights (7 inch hellas), went with a 2 inch flange around the lights and spaced them how I liked. Printed the initial design on paper and test fitted to the hood to see if it cleared my headlights...the rest was using foam.

I make a 3d model of it using a vector drawing of my car from different angles from google (to get basic arcs to trim the bottom of the model with)