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View Full Version : H6 Tensioner/Idler Bearing Issue and Solution



Lancaster6
02-14-2013, 07:32 PM
Hey fellow H6ers, I recently came across an issue that seems to be quite prevalent with these engines:

The issue is that the bearings in both the idler and tensioner pulleys are prone to failure. Failure of these bearings leads to the shredding of the drive belt, and more often than not, destruction of the tensioner assembly. This can strand you, or worse-your significant other, on the side of some highway in god knows where. For obvious reasons, any measure that can be taken to avoid that possibility should be carried out.

-But how do I know if my tensioner/idler bearings are on their way out? :smt017
That's a pretty easy one! When you start your Outback, there will be this god awful screeching/chattering sound that may or may not make your ears bleed. It's a sound that will make you the laughing stock at four-way stops and other intersections. The simile I find most appropriate is that the car will be "squealing like a stuck hog." Obviously this can just be some belt noise, like the belt saying "Hey, if you wouldn't mind, change me out when you get a chance. Take your time though." But don't let it fool you!

I started my 04 Outback H6 up a couple weeks ago and heard the exact sounds as described above. I figured it was time to change the bearings out, and throw a new belt on there while I was at it. When I got the pulleys off, and hammered the old bearings out, this is what I found. The rubber all around the inner race was cracked and brittle, and when put on my finger and spun around it felt very scratchy, no smoothness was in the rotation at all. It's days were very limited.

Old Bearings...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/DSC_0314_zps067e38ff-1.jpg

The part numbers for these two bearings are the same. From NAPA: 6203-2RSJ

I pressed the new bearings in, then re-installed them on the car, followed by the old belt. That dreadful squeal was gone! I then removed the old belt and put the new belt on. Ah the sweet sound of silence.

A word of caution, if attempting this, be sure to keep a finger BEHIND the tensioner pulley. When you remove that bolt there is a nut behind it that will fall out and will most likely get lost.

And a final diagram of the drive belt routing with labeled components for reference:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/02/Serpentinebeltthreadingdiagram_zps88bf40-1.jpg


If anyone would like a DIY, let me know and I'll write one up! :smile:

rkrenicki
02-14-2013, 08:14 PM
I personally replaced both pulleys with the Dayco 89007 pulleys which were significantly cheaper than the "correct" ones.

Lancaster6
02-14-2013, 08:25 PM
I've heard that the 89007 pulleys worked as well. Either method works, I'll probably go the Dayco Pulley route next time just to save the hassle of pressing new bearings in.

1996Battlewagon
02-17-2013, 07:13 AM
Word! Solid write up and this should definitely go in the "Engine Threads of Note". Cough cough.

Lancaster6
02-17-2013, 08:56 PM
Wow, thanks! Hopefully some folks get some use out of it. There's a massive thread on subaruoutback.org about this issue. Figured I would take some of the info from there, lump in my experience with it, and post it up over here. Also, its been about 1000 miles since the job and she's squeal free! :smt041