Yellowing headlights.....*Now with MORE pics*

[2deadlegs]

I had a spare set of headlights kicking around from a former legacy so I figured I would try to tackle the yellowing issue to see what works and what doesn't. Listed below are some methods mentioned in other Subaru forums and on the internet.

1. Apply brake fluid with rag Results: Worked great....untill it dried and it
was 10x worse.

2. Degreaser and elbow grease Results: Took most of the yellow out but still
very dull.

3. Polishing compound w/buffer Results: Hardly noticable. Waste of time.


4. Wet sand w/different grits/clearcoat Results:600 grit wet then used
rubbing compound and turtle wax on a buffer wheel. Nothing major and and yielded good results. Below you will see the results. The lights on top were worse than the ones on the bottom.

http://www.blackls.homestead.com/files/Picture_015.jpg

I put those on the car and started working on the ones that came off. Below is a side-by-side so yall can see the difference.

http://www.blackls.homestead.com/files/Picture_030.jpg

[Disturbed_beast]

My JDM tail lights came clear the problem is i have gotten pulled over for clear blinkers becuase it's illigel they have to be yellow or red

[jdmconnected]

I have a bit of experience with refinishing headlights, so I will share what I know.

I think that what is described as "yellowing" can be broken down into three categories.
1. Surface haze
2. Moderate to severe yellowing below the top surface
3. Surface flaking

Since BC/BF lights are pretty old, unless they have been well taken care of or on a car thats been parked out of direct sunlight, they will most likely suffer from at least 1. and 2.

As far as actually refinishing lights that suffer from 1. and moderate 2., I use wet sanding (1500 or 2000 grit) in combination with a high speed buffer, coarse or medium foam pad, and medium cut rubbing compound.
Its possible do skip wet sanding, but polishing is more difficult and the pad quickly gets gummed up the oxidation what was on the surface of the headlight.
You can't really get good results by hand, if you do not have a rotary buffer I suggest getting a pad attachment for a strong 3/8" corded drill at least. You have generate heat with the pad, so cheap slow drills aren't going to work.

Lights that are severely yellowed are really not easily fixable (if you are looking for pure white lights again that is), you can just make the surface shiny, or start sanding them with some very heavy grits, work you way up, and then spray clearcoat, but in the end it is way too much work for marginal results. You time is much better spent searching for a set of lights that are in better shape.

As far as lights with 3. (flaking) as long as there isn't severe yellowing these can be fixed by sanding the flaked edges with 800 grit sandpaper until they are smooth to touch, then sanding with 1000 grit, then the whole light with 1500 grit, followed by compounding. The flaked areas, though, will be a little more "cloudy" than normal. It is very difficult to notice if done right. If you want it perfect you will have to spray a clearcoat after sanding.

I'm out of time for now, but if I missed or need to add something I will post again later.

Neil

[Tris_STi]

You can't really get good results by hand, if you do not have a rotary buffer I suggest getting a pad attachment for a strong 3/8" corded drill at least.

I did two sets by hand, sold one to a very satisfied customer. Time spent is well worth the effort, if you've got a 90-91 BC/BF (pre-face legacy :wink: ) I'd say with handtools, like a rotary buffer, you don't have the control one could have with good old-fashioned elbow grease.

Your results are also dependant on your materials used. Water and sandpaper never fails, but your work will be harder. I've used both Zymol and Mother's Carnuba wax on yellowed headlights, in combination with steel wool #0000, and got very pleasant results after clear coating.

[Wiscon_Mark]

How long would you say your results last, Tris/JDMconnect? I've used plastic polish in the past and it does help, but only for about 3 weeks and then I have to do it all over again...I'd say I have a moderate haze, not severe yellowing. I'll post some pics or something soon.

[pdawg]

here's the method I used off Sccobymods
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322

[jdmconnected]

I think I dissmissed hand polishing too quickly in my haste.
It certainly is possible to do it by hand, but I've never been happy with the results because headlight plastic is harder than paint (as long as you haven't put a clear coat on it...) and I have found its very difficult to get all of the sanding scratches out on a flat surface in a reasonable amount of time/effort even using a rotary buffer, much less by hand.
YMMV, it depends on your expectations, the item you are polishing, and as Tris said, it also depends on the materials you are using.


How long would you say your results last, Tris/JDMconnect? I've used plastic polish in the past and it does help, but only for about 3 weeks and then I have to do it all over again...

That plastic polish probably isn't a polish at all. (or at least not very good) The fact that it only works for a short time shows that it is more of a glaze, hiding imperfections with filler instead of actually fixing them.
It may help to wet sand first before using the plastic "polish", but its probably not polish so that might make things worse.

You should try a different brand of plastic polish, or rubbing compound used for paintwork.

[Tris_STi]

No matter how you clear/clean the lenses, the only way you'll seal in that clean shine is just that -- seal it in. Any decent clearcoat works fine, what I've heard yields tremendously satisfactory results is NAPA's 303 clearcoat. (I'll have to find a pic/pn#, sorry!) The 303, IIRC, is UV resistant, as well as has the ability to withstand small rock chips.

But whatever you choose, don't NOT pick one, mmkay? Otherwise, your hard work WILL go down the drain. :)

[2deadlegs]

I have heard all sorts or variations on which grit sandpaper to use during wet sand.

I am going to be going the wetsand/clearcoat method this week and I would like to get everyones opinion so I will be one step ahead when hitting the Home Depot or Wal-mart.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Ok, thanks guys, I really appreciate this.
BTW, the polish was some brand they used at the dealer that we got for free. yes, our dealer gives us free stuff. i don't know if it was really supposed to be used for that purpose, though.

[Tris_STi]

Plastic Polish is a contradiction of terms.

2deadlegs, get #0000 steel wool. It's easier to work with, doesn't wear out as quickly, and i can verify that it doesn't scratch the lens surface quite as much as the other methods, such as varying degrees of sandpaper.

Get some decent degreaser, and use it as your wetsand method --Simple Green (I love!) works fab. In later stages, use some cleaner wax as a rubbing compound, or even rubbing compounds, like Turtle, which can grind down surface imperfections you've created as a result of this process.

Seriously, though, ELBOW GREASE.

[belladonna]

i actually found a plastic polish that works...meguiars plastic x...worked pretty good on my headlights, which were starting to yellow. got rid of the yellow and most haze...
still no replacement to sanding, but it worked for now...

[2deadlegs]

I have posted a picture in the original post.....what do you think?

[Wiscon_Mark]

I'm gonna revive this thread for a second....
So Tristan, you'd recommend using steel wool in combination with simple green and then when everything is a little ground down, keep using the steel wool, but use wax on the surface instead of degreser...right? (or use sandpaper instead of steel wool, w/e). then seal it with a clearcoat.
Any things to add or comment on?

[Perdue]

Alright, I think there's a few misconceptions here that need cleared up.

Steel wool isn't going to be able to get as fine as what 2000 grit sandpaper is going to, and is going to leave you with scratches even after the polish.

Also, clear coat isn't going to stick to a polished headlight very well at all. Paint has to have a rougher surface to stick to (hence why you usually sand primer with 600-800 grit), and will quickly chip off of the polished surface. Further, there's no reason to "seal in that shine" anyways. Sand, polish, and leave it be. It should last just as long without yellowing as the headlights did from factory.

Walmart sells an assortment pack of sandpaper that runs from around 250-2000. I'd get that, and some 3m rubbing compound/scratch remover or some mequires scratch-X.

1. Remove the headlight assembly from the car. This will make it much easier to work with.
2. Start wet sanding with 600 grit, using plenty of water and wiping the lense with a towel every once in a while to check progress. Sand the lense until you've removed all oxidationg and scratches, leaving only the sanding marks to be seen.
3. Take the next finest grit in your assortment (800) and wet sand in the same fashion until you no longer see the rougher sanding marks from the previous grit. Repeat this step using finer and finer grits until you've finished up with the 2000 grit sandpaper. This should leave you with a slightly hazy lense.
4. Now use a rag and a liberal amount of polish to polish out the very small scratches left by the 2000 grit sandpaper. This should leave you with a better than new looking lense.
5. Reinstall the assembly and enjoy.

[Wiscon_Mark]

thanks perdue :)

[Wiscon_Mark]

well, I did what Perdue said (roughly, working with the materials at home)
Here is what I did:
400grit sandpaper (wet)
600grit sandpaper (wet)
1500grit sandpaper (wet)
dremel tool with a buffer
Prestone Wax
(then I used the dremel to buff off the wax)

Now the Pictures!

Before:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2005/07/HeadlightD-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2005/07/HeadlightP-1.jpg


After:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2005/07/HeadlightDNEW-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2005/07/HeadlightPNEW-1.jpg


It looks better visibly on the headlight, but it makes a HUGE difference on the road. There's a lot more light being thrown out there...now I just need to get myself some silverstars (wish I could get HIDs) and aim those puppies!

[Perdue]

see? am I da man or what? :lol: lookin much better, Mark.

[Reason]

Looks pretty damn good Mark.

[2deadlegs]

My lenses look the same as Marks. I'm about to do another pair too.... I'm getting some help from a place that polishes plexi-glas for boat cabin winows though.

Can you say "off the hook?"

[chuckthefuk]

Just did this last night.

1200 Wetsand (6 minutes each light)
Basic Car Polish with a rag for 2 minutes.

Quality OEM look :-D

Cheers
-Chuck

[BE-Fresh]

Whenever I claybar my car, I usually do the headlights too. Kept them clear, but then I didn't clay for about 6-7 months. I might need to do this :-(

[Reason]

Ahh this brings back memories. The original drama queen. Digi should learn from this guy mistakes. Did I say that out loud?

On topic for pitted headlights I use 800, 1000 then 2000 wet sand. Not for a "certain amount of time" but till it looks like it is done right. One side may take longer than the next. I used the "headlight repair kit" that you can get at an autoparts store. After I polish the lens then I switch to Meguires plastix. Works like a charm, my neon headlights were HORRIBLE, but looked brand new when I was finished (I did it twice).

[MkIII]

I would highly recommend the Micro-Mesh "Headlight Restoral" (https://www.micro-surface.com/default.cfm?page_id=175#50) kit:

http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/headlight_kits.htm

I use some of their products for the scale cars I build and tried it on my headlights and the results were pretty amazing.

[Reason]

The kit is not really needed but it helps. Sanding with 600 or 800 (depends on how bad, then 1000 and 2000 grit and wet sand it's the best way to go. You just can sit there for 5 minutes and think you are done. If you put some time in it till it's clear then you did it right. Ir will look new.

fixed!

[MkIII]

You'd be surprised on closer inspection how much the high-count grit sandpaper can do to truly "clear" the plastic; even before any polishing.

600-800 is just the start and visually it would look and feel okay once followed up with 1000 and 2000 grit (I'm sure you didn't mean 100, 200), but if you were to try the same process on a completely transparent sheet of acrylic, you'd find that the result wasn't perfectly clear.

I think we're both talking about a similar process, with each grit value reducing the finish from the previous grit. But I've seen it work so much better using finer and finer grades of abrasive. It definitely does take time to finish all the steps correctly. I use a similar process to polish paint. When you're done absolutely no polish is necessary and the results are phenomenal.

I'll see if I can't figure out some way to illustrate this better with a picture.

[Reason]

I did mean 1000 and 2000 and I wet sand all grits I used, then a headlight repair kit polish followed with meguires platix. It came out clear, not frosted clear. I used a DIY from a Honda forum. The guy polished every plastic piece in his interior and it is ridiculously shiny. He also did all the aluminum under the hood, craziness.

[MkIII]

I actually need to do this same process on my instrument cluster plastic. I think the previous owner cleaned the dash with a brillo pad or something. I've never seen something scratched so badly.

[Fizzle]

I just wet-sanded mine with 2000grit(they werent to to bad). Did that for about 10minutes per light.
Then i put some mothers metal polish stuff.
Then i used some Blue Magic liquid headlight restorer to finish off the process.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff4/FizzleDarkbane/Car/HPIM0669.jpg

Next are my fogs..those are gonna be fun to do! :lol: