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subyL92
05-15-2013, 09:56 PM
Okay...
I have the cel codes p0301 and p0302...
Cylinder 1&2 misfire...
I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil pack...
and the codes still kick back on...
I feel no misfire or hesitation though..
What can this be?
Its starting to really get on my nerves..

Garrison
05-15-2013, 10:17 PM
How many miles does your engine have on it?

It's likely that it's the crank sprocket woodruff key, it wallows out and causes an oblong rotation with the crank = misfire readings by the ECU.

It's f*cked up, but not uncommon.

subyL92
05-15-2013, 10:30 PM
I have roughly 203k
If so would it be bitchy to change?

Grimmrican
05-15-2013, 10:32 PM
Could also be ur fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, or in some common cases the heads. I'd run a compression test and see where they're at. My dad is currently going thru this now on cyls 2&4. I tried techtron fuel injector cleaner and helped some but still misfire returned. I'm gonna do a compression test on it soon.

subyL92
05-15-2013, 10:39 PM
Ill try the chevron fuel injector cleaner..
I heard maybe an igniter issue..?
Idk..
Ill try a compression test..
Will there be any symptoms for head damage without running a compression test?

Grimmrican
05-15-2013, 10:41 PM
Misfire?? Lol

Grimmrican
05-15-2013, 10:42 PM
Prolly overheating or hotter than normal. Milky/ chocolaty oil

subyL92
05-15-2013, 10:44 PM
Its not doing any of that..
I do have an exhaust leak..
Will this cause to kick the code?

Grimmrican
05-15-2013, 11:45 PM
Exhaust leak no. But it will throw a O2 sensor code which may effect ur how much gas u burn but not a misfire.

r3v_v3ng3
05-16-2013, 03:10 AM
Has the knock sensor been changed already? They tend to crack and send misfire codes

subyL92
05-16-2013, 10:10 AM
No i havent changed it...
I did have a p0325 knock sensor code...
But it goes on now and again..

pleaidestar
05-16-2013, 11:17 AM
My son's Knock Sensor suffered the textbook cracking around the metal sleeve (of course threw a CEL). Not having a replacement (or $80) on hand, I tried the following "fix":
Remove Knock Sensor
Clean top with soft wire brush, followed with lacquer thinner, then blew out to remove any debris
Get the thinnest CA glue you can find. (I used Loctite Super Glue Liquid)
Apply glue generously all over the plastic part that surrounds the metal sleeve. Do not allow any glue to build up on the metal sleeve itself.
With a pointy thing (pin, needle, etc), work the glue into the cracks and the sleeve/plastic contact area, breaking any surface tension. Try to get it to soak in.
Once thoroughly dry, apply glue again.
Let it dry 12-24 hours and reinstall
So far, no CEL

^^change it, knock sensors do that sometimes, your car will start detonating and you will have more problems. If you do buy another one and replace it remember there are torque specs, I believe its 15 ft/lbs of tq.

pleaidestar
05-16-2013, 11:19 AM
That above was from a recent thread on legacygt. It should be changed though as the best repair.

harrymaneuvers
05-16-2013, 01:08 PM
How many miles does your engine have on it?

It's likely that it's the crank sprocket woodruff key, it wallows out and causes an oblong rotation with the crank = misfire readings by the ECU.

It's f*cked up, but not uncommon.


With my experience with the above mentioned problem, it popped missfire codes for all 4 cylinders.

Trying to imagine how a skipped tooth on a timing belt or something else of that nature would only affect cylinders 1 and 2

pleaidestar
05-16-2013, 01:22 PM
Cam pos. Sensor could get hot, if the crank gear was pulled off and got one of the tabs a little tweaked I could imagine that. A skipped tooth or a jump would make a single cam motor run absolutely horrible and pretty much undriveable. Erratic idle and backfiring happens when timing is off like that.