leaking line

[Rust2Runner]

I'm about to get knee deep in brake fluid on my 95 brighton. I have a leak in my passenger side rear line somewhere. Anybody know how hard messing with that line is? How it's pathed? I hate to do this work now, just to do it again when it comes time to upgrade the lines.

[rkrenicki]

That is the same place my BG is leaking. The hard lines travel to the back inside the car under the carpets on the passenger side.. Underneath the seat, they pass through a rubber bulkhead to the outside of the car and then go into a union block. From there, both lines go up over the fuel tank and one bends back down for the passenger side, and the other crosses over the fuel tank, across the car to the drivers side.

Mine blew out the hard line to the drivers side somewhere over the fuel tank, so the brake fluid just leaks down around the tank. I have not dropped the tank to see exactly where, but with the union there, it does unscrew (make sure you use a pipe wrench so as to not strip the head)

[Rust2Runner]

That's good info, thanks! Can you see the union block from under the car without dropping the tank? I might just drop the tank anyway and take a peek.

[rkrenicki]

Yes, it is just behind the skirt in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side.

There is a thread here about the brake system on the 2nd gen. viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23988 (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23988)

His was leaking on the other side of the union, where mine is after the union. It could really be anywhere along this path for you.

[Rust2Runner]

https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/eef4e ... 7e508217d3 (https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/eef4ea6c6bef4a1c81a558ac486241c9/albums/eb37691a3daa4f519628c17e508217d3)

Leaking right at the bend before the union, this will take some work...

[Rust2Runner]

Thanks for the quick heads up. Saved me some unnecessary interior removal.

[rkrenicki]

Looks like you had the exact same issue that d1giPhux had. That makes it a little more complicated, but it is repairable without tearing up the whole car..

[Rust2Runner]

Yeah, I'm going to try a splice like was suggested, for now. The top side is easy, but the under side is going to mess my hands up pretty good.

[Rust2Runner]

Word to the wise; if your brake line is corroded here, there's almost a guarantee that your union block is pretty badly corroded too. You'll either need to delete it like the YouTube guy did in his vid, or source out another one.

Mine is so old that unscrewing it is more breaking than disassembly.

[Rust2Runner]

Took most of the day, but finally fixed.

Took the whole section off an outback scrap car. This saves the trouble of navigating the bends. Plus I now have the other 3 legs for when they eventually cry for attention. Used a brake line splice, and flared the cut line.

15min job that took all day thanks to rusted and fused parts. There's not many reasons for this past to fail, but if it does, you can be certain every part you need to work with will also have corrosion.

https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/eef4e ... 7e508217d3 (https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/eef4ea6c6bef4a1c81a558ac486241c9/albums/eb37691a3daa4f519628c17e508217d3)

[d1giPhux]

Oh man, you just went through this miserable joy too? I had to do this before, and what a BITCH to do! Talk about a pain in the ass. I made a thread about it somewhere on this site.. man, what a pain! Glad you got it done!


Edit: i see someone found my post and posted it already! Glad it may have helped.. or may help those in the future with this miserable problem! I hope I never have to do THAT again! I was so glad I bought that napa brake flaring tool too! Worked wonders!

[Rust2Runner]

Yeah, thanks for that write up D1gi. Saved me all the r&d, and realistically my first thought was to pull the whole line. Now I can put it behind me and still do a line kit in due time! Had to do most of this myself, since my brake shop told me AT LEAST a week turn around... screw that; 30 minute job at most with your write up :-)