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camroncamera
07-11-2013, 02:32 AM
Finally getting ready to deal with (some) new paint on the wife's GT Wagon. Adding a GT-B Limited front bumper as well. The car is a 1998 Legacy GT Wagon in Black Granite Pearl, Subaru paint code 54A.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7234_zps2b4a1cde-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7234_zps2b4a1cde.jpg.html)
As mentioned in the thread Ask a detailer! (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25456), I have a problem with the original factory paint, sometimes referred to as "crow's feet", "checking", or "crappy Subaru paint" lol. There is some checking on most of the upward-facing surfaces such as the roof, tops of the fenders, and the top edges of the doors. The checking is especially bad on the hood, and has been like this since we bought the car over two and a half years ago:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7228_zpsba5b42f8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7228_zpsba5b42f8.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7230_zps09629527-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7230_zps09629527.jpg.html)

The sides and trunk area look pretty good though, considering it's age. I spent several days cleaning, polishing, and buffing scratches out of the paint all over the exterior. It will never be perfect, but it shines nicely and several of the clearcoat scratches came out fairly well.

Before scratch correction:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7160_zps31ac1efc-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7160_zps31ac1efc.jpg.html)

After scratch correction:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7248_zps8a50409d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7248_zps8a50409d.jpg.html)

There is nothing I can do for the checking, however, and it was explained to me that it will only get worse, until the clearcoat completely fails.

So what I need to have done - for sure - is paint this bumper:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/03/IMG_2061-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_2061.jpg.html)

I need to get the hood refinished as well. I also have several trim pieces to paint, including JDM spats, sidemarkers, folding mirrors, and L7 grille (which needs new smoked chrome). I'd like to color-match the side skirts, which are stock grey plastic. (Wishing I had a GT-B rear bumper to go with the front to complete the full JDM look!) So naturally it occurs to me that maybe the right way forward is a complete bumper-to-bumper repaint.

I asked for a referral over at LegacyGT.com (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/post-picture-your-legacy-here-135063p207.html), when a local member sikend667 (http://legacygt.com/forums/member.php?u=60735) talked about having his wagon repainted. His enthusiastic answer was Eagle Street Automotive, a long-established paint shop here in Vancouver, WA. After cleaning up the car to the best of my ability, I went on down there for an estimate yesterday. Just as I was walking into the shop, a flawless ivory white ~1958 Dodge convertible rolled up with it's top down. I'm not all that into classics but I was like :tongue1: . I met with the shop manager, who confirmed that the car was their work, and that they do a lot of prize-winning classics. He had a good look at my car and the white bumper, which I had brought along in the cargo hold. The crackled appearance on the hood and other areas was explained to me as too much hardener in the clearcoat when it was originally applied. This catalyst continues to harden over the years, and sun & heat conspire to slowly shatter the clear over time. He explained that repainting the hood, bumper, and trim pieces would run $700-$800, but that the rest of the car would look bad by comparison, and would need to be painted within a few years anyway. A rough estimate for sanding away the failing finish and painting the entire car would be ~$3000. This is a tremendous amount of money for a 15-year-old car which would sell for less than that in many markets in the country (but not in Portland, where you'd expect to pay a lot more for a nice older Subaru). However, it was not the "$5000 paint job" that I feared would be quoted to me, lol. We spent a good twenty minutes talking it over, and this was after his closing time, so I thought that was pretty cool of him. I told him I'd talk it over with my wife and let him know what we decide.

So far that is the only estimate I've received, but I am also planning to take the car down to Dick Hannah Collision Center, which is part of the the local Subie dealership, to see if there is any wheeling-dealing-paint-should-be-recalled I could do. I seriously doubt anything would come of this (I definitely am not a regular maintenance customer), but I suppose it is worth a shot. I need to get the seatbelts replaced under warranty anyway. The car was sold brand new from a local dealership (Wentworth) in Portland, so that is another avenue to explore. We had a fender-bender with the 4Runner several years back, and another shop here in town did the work, which still looks great, so I will probably get some estimates there as well.

The last decision I would need to make is a slight change in color: Instead of 54A-Black Granite Pearl, I might like to change to 47A-Black Mica. This is the color, I believe, of the JDM GT-B's. I have some JDM mirrors in this this original color. It's quite similar - a black with maroon metal flake - but the flake is smaller and color overall is a shade darker. I think it would be close enough that I could skip doing the door jambs, under the hood, etc. I am really a black car kind of guy, and the maroon look of Black Granite Pearl has always left me wishing it was darker. Maybe Black Mica is the way to go?

Anybody have any input?

Thomistopheles
07-11-2013, 03:00 AM
I wish you could go with obsidian black pearl, I love that color. So much blue and green flake. Can you get a photo of the 47A for comparison? I'd definitely do the full respray. My car has mismatched paint from old repairs, drives me absolutely bonkers.

camroncamera
07-11-2013, 03:32 AM
I wish you could go with obsidian black pearl, I love that color. So much blue and green flake. Can you get a photo of the 47A for comparison? I'd definitely do the full respray. My car has mismatched paint from old repairs, drives me absolutely bonkers.

I can see that happening with mismatched panels! Thanks for the feedback. Here are the JDM mirrors that I have (they too need repainting) compared against our car. The difference is hard to see, and even harder to photograph. Maybe if the JDM mirrors weren't so banged up it would work a bit better. These pics are from a year ago, so the car was not all polished up like today's pictures. Maybe if you squint you can see the difference, lol.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_4177_zpse7ce382a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_4177_zpse7ce382a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_4185_zps6fc099a2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_4185_zps6fc099a2.jpg.html)

Thomistopheles
07-11-2013, 04:04 AM
I can see the difference, a lot less purple/maroon in the JDM mirror's paint. I'd go with that color. Robin (dead91silvia) is a body guy, maybe send him a PM.

Dead91silvia
07-11-2013, 11:31 AM
If it was my car, it would be a complete... However, I would change the colr to PPG 9700 black. I'm not a fan of pearl blacks.

But yeah, I would d a complete. $3000 is about average for a "good shop". If you know anything about prepping, you can cut that bills down, like what I'm doing with Slavik. I'm working on getting his Impreza painted and hoping by the time we are done, his car will have the equivalent of a $2000 paint job.

You might find someone that can do it for cheaper, but that will be hit or miss. If you know someone that has had work done at what ever shop it is, thats better. If you wanted to change up the black, that can raise, or lower the price.

camroncamera
07-11-2013, 01:56 PM
Thanks for the input, guys. Dead and I did PM about paint work and GT-B Limited bumpers recently :) My inspiration for the car is, no question, Reuben's GT-B Limited (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?p=298369#p298369). Hope you don't mind me reposting a couple of your photos here, Reuben :)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/IMG_4883-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/IMG_4875-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/07/IMG_8178-1.jpg
(Photo credit: Reuben (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=5832))

You can see, especially the bumper closeup, how the JDM Black Mica still shows up with the maroon flake in direct sunlight. (I am still trying to confirm that I have the exact paint name and Subaru paint code: Black Mica 47A, sometimes listed as Black Mica Pearl 47A). In some ways I really like straight BLACK better (no pearl or metal flake), but I think I will stick with a genuine USDM or JDM Subaru finish that is factory correct for the BG/BK. Either because I want to have the JDM GT-B look correct (which can never be 100% complete, as I have a BK, not a BG, which is fine by me), or because if ever there is a fender-bender down the road, I might get lucky and find a factory color-matched panel to go straight on without having to custom paint it right away.

I did do some paint and body work on my Scirocco 16V in my garage several years back. I learned a lot, but ultimately was unhappy with my own work. I sort of had nothing to lose on that one... several years before that I was rear-ended and had the Scirocco repaired at a bodyshop here in town. The car was completely repainted and it looked good (not great) for two or three years. Then the clearcoat failed. I wanted to have the shop redo the work but *surprise!* they were out of business. So I took it upon myself to sand and repaint the whole car all over again. I fixed some rust spots, so that was good, but here it is five years later and the paint looks like crap *again*. Needs some fine-tuning on the body work to boot. Ugh. So much work, not much to show for it. I don't want to repeat these experiences - the bad "pro" bodyshop, nor the bad do-it-myself bodyshop, lol.

camroncamera
07-14-2013, 03:21 PM
I went to several body shops Friday for estimates... realizing that the "checking" or clearcoat cracking over the entire car's upper surfaces will require a full strip and repaint of the entire car, I was getting full-repaint estimates, and not really getting estimates for just the bumper and hood. I can say that the first full-repaint estimate from last week - $3000 - is the definitely the cheapest. The only way to get the cost down is for me to do some - or all - of the prep and paint myself. This is exactly what Dead91silvia said to me a couple weeks ago. Surprisingly, a couple shops encouraged this approach. The guy who gave me the highest estimate ("at least $6000") said that he'd be happy to rent his paint booth if I wanted to do things this way. His estimate for the bumper by itself was about $280.

I also went to the two main autobody and paint suppliers in town for recommendations. They said that they can't play favorites, but I did get a few names. One of the names was $6000 guy mentioned above.

On a lark, I also stopped at the Dick Hannah dealership collision center. Dick Hannah is the largest series of dealerships here in Vancouver, and the only Subaru dealer without crossing the bridge to Oregon. I was expecting a "Thank you, come again" shrug from them, but the estimator was really pretty cool. He was a former paint booth man of 20 years, and recognized that the car is in overall excellent condition, other than the cracked clear. His estimate was about the same as most of the other shops, ~$5000, but we talked for quite awhile about the do-it yourself approach. He said that I may want to seriously consider this. Never thought a dealership would encourage a customer to do things this way, lol. Might have to take this approach after all, at least for some of the work.

Dead91silvia
07-15-2013, 12:08 AM
They will want you to because if you dont, there is no way you will pay them to do a full paint job.

What most people dont realize is that paint work is spendy. If you take a car t a resto shop, at least the one I would recommend, they will base price it at $20K. And it could g up from there.

The price of $280 is not bad. For a bumper needing light repair, I charge $100 just for labor and thats pretty much just prepping it.

camroncamera
07-15-2013, 03:14 AM
They will want you to because if you dont, there is no way you will pay them to do a full paint job. What most people dont realize is that paint work is spendy. If you take a car t a resto shop, at least the one I would recommend, they will base price it at $20K. And it could g up from there.

The price of $280 is not bad. For a bumper needing light repair, I charge $100 just for labor and thats pretty much just prepping it.
Those are good points, Dead, thank you for your expertise :) Maybe I will go ahead and prep and shoot the bumper myself and see how it comes out. If I'm happy, I will do the hood myself. If I'm happy with that, maybe I'll do the rest of the car down the road a bit. One gotcha on doing the paint in sections might be color matching, though... especially if I go with the ever-so-slightly darker JDM Black Mica Pearl. However, the factory paint on my original bumpers are already slightly darker than paint on the metal panels. Maybe the bumpers were finished single-stage (no clearcoat) at the factory? Or does a flex agent change the look of the finish somewhat, compared to metal panels?

I've been deep cleaning my garage and I've organized a fair amount of body shop supplies and tools from my last auto paint experience. Kinda getting me in the mood to "just do it" myself as much as I can.

pleaidestar
07-15-2013, 09:59 AM
A lot of the cost of a full respray comes from de-trimming the car, this is kind of how you tell you are in a quality shop, they will put the clear under everything. Some shops will just mask the lights and bag the wheels, some will take a day to r+I everything including door moldings mirrors door handles antennas etc...if you don't have that kind of stuff removed you will be back in two Years when the clear starts peeling from the trim and edges where the clear wasn't uniform and completely covering areas under lights and wheel arches.

Dead91silvia
07-15-2013, 11:57 AM
This is how I took my GMC into Macco... Cost me $650 to have them spray it white... A 4x4, e-cab, long box... It was about a month of prep. I drove it to the shop like this, but I did remove the front bumper also. And this was just for my work truck/tow rig...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_1880_zps0ba47802-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/other%20peoples%20cars/89%20GMC/IMG_1880_zps0ba47802.jpg.html)

And I put my tail lights back in just t drive it there and then removed them, again.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_1878_zpsb8f7a35c-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/other%20peoples%20cars/89%20GMC/IMG_1878_zpsb8f7a35c.jpg.html)

Before
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_5765_zps55077fca-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/other%20peoples%20cars/89%20GMC/IMG_5765_zps55077fca.jpg.html)

After... Yes, I installed a new front end also... haha
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_2080_zps3fc22e2f-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/other%20peoples%20cars/89%20GMC/IMG_2080_zps3fc22e2f.jpg.html)

Dead91silvia
07-15-2013, 12:25 PM
They will want you to because if you dont, there is no way you will pay them to do a full paint job. What most people dont realize is that paint work is spendy. If you take a car t a resto shop, at least the one I would recommend, they will base price it at $20K. And it could g up from there.

The price of $280 is not bad. For a bumper needing light repair, I charge $100 just for labor and thats pretty much just prepping it.
Those are good points, Dead, thank you for your expertise :) Maybe I will go ahead and prep and shoot the bumper myself and see how it comes out. If I'm happy, I will do the hood myself. If I'm happy with that, maybe I'll do the rest of the car down the road a bit. One gotcha on doing the paint in sections might be color matching, though... especially if I go with the ever-so-slightly darker JDM Black Mica Pearl. However, the factory paint on my original bumpers are already slightly darker than paint on the metal panels. Maybe the bumpers were finished single-stage (no clearcoat) at the factory? Or does a flex agent change the look of the finish somewhat, compared to metal panels?

I've been deep cleaning my garage and I've organized a fair amount of body shop supplies and tools from my last auto paint experience. Kinda getting me in the mood to "just do it" myself as much as I can.

All plastic parts are painted in a different factory, typically. Sometimes the color can be night and day and in that case, a bran new car will get a re-paint.

Flex additive will not change the color at all. It's clear, all it does is change the consistency. As for if they are clear coated or not, they are. They never (as far as I have seen) done a car with and without clear from the factory. nly time I have seen it happen is if the car had crash damage. You will sometimes see red Toyota's driving around with half gloss and half flat paint. Thats from crash damage that was repaired years before.

I'm going t try and get some pics to slavik of the work I'm doing to his car and that will show some of the prep work. His car is getting a color change though so it's super extencive comparing to what you are going to do...

The way you should prep your car for paint is hard and easy at the same time. When I get home later, I can go through it a bit more. The hard part is prepping the surface for paint and knowing it's ready. Also in doing this yourself, you will have a car at home, that you cant drive for at least a week if not longer. So if you dont have an extra car to drive, it can be a problem. Also when it goes to the shop (a good one) they will take a few days to get it all done and sprayed. they may also cut and buff parts of it as needed or as per what you pay for.

camroncamera
07-15-2013, 01:33 PM
A lot of the cost of a full respray comes from de-trimming the car, this is kind of how you tell you are in a quality shop, they will put the clear under everything. Some shops will just mask the lights and bag the wheels, some will take a day to r+I everything including door moldings mirrors door handles antennas etc...if you don't have that kind of stuff removed you will be back in two Years when the clear starts peeling from the trim and edges where the clear wasn't uniform and completely covering areas under lights and wheel arches.
This ^^

Yeah, I definitely want paint/clear under all the lights, trim, etc. Looking for a factory-new, quality job. I will remove most everything that I can (and anything that I can't, I'll have removed for me). What about glass and the rubber seals though? Especially the windshield... Dude that runs the shop with the paint booth for rent was looking at the windshield seal at the top edge trying to see if the rubber comes out without removing the glass, and explaining that you need the rubber removed for both sanding and painting.

Is it good practice to replace trim strips, door handles, and plastic bits with new dealer items? Do those parts get new paint, or are they a nice shiny black from the dealer already?

I think I want to avoid repainting the door & hatch jambs and under the hood if that is considered acceptable practice. Factory paint in those areas is good, and the car has zero rust.

pleaidestar
07-15-2013, 02:12 PM
Yeah the jambs and under hood etc. can Be avoided under the hood is typically just basecoat, doorjambs have clear of course but they can cut the clear where the pinch on the door skin and seam sealer tape is there. The clips and fasteners that break can be replaced in shop...that is where some of the hidden cost is as well. Companies like au-ve-co have duplicates of some of the uni- fasteners the manufacturers use.

There is a heavy plastic tape that can be put under the weather seals on the windows, its pretty cool how that stuff works, have to slide it between the water channel and window then tape it back so the paint and clear have a soft landing. When the tape is removed it will lay back down on top of the clear coat depending on the strip being flexible still.

pleaidestar
07-15-2013, 02:28 PM
Micro-cracking like that indicates the temperature inside the paint booth was too cold for the topcoat, or it was sprayed and not cured in the booth long enough.

camroncamera
07-15-2013, 07:20 PM
There is a heavy plastic tape that can be put under the weather seals on the windows, its pretty cool how that stuff works, have to slide it between the water channel and window then tape it back so the paint and clear have a soft landing. When the tape is removed it will lay back down on top of the clear coat depending on the strip being flexible still.
WIN^^

I figured there must be some sort of technique or product like this.

camroncamera
07-15-2013, 08:17 PM
All plastic parts are painted in a different factory, typically. Sometimes the color can be night and day and in that case, a bran new car will get a re-paint.

Flex additive will not change the color at all. It's clear, all it does is change the consistency. As for if they are clear coated or not, they are. They never (as far as I have seen) done a car with and without clear from the factory. nly time I have seen it happen is if the car had crash damage. You will sometimes see red Toyota's driving around with half gloss and half flat paint. Thats from crash damage that was repaired years before.

This is very insightful info, thank you!

Dead91silvia
07-16-2013, 06:17 AM
Literally the night I shot my Silvia...

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3878_zps919fb4ae1-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3878_zps919fb4ae-1.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3879_zpsda385f581-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3879_zpsda385f58-1.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3880_zps5bd7fb321-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3880_zps5bd7fb32-1.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3881_zps59a7c0d71-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3881_zps59a7c0d7-1.jpg.html)

Last coat of clear...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3912_zps9a90051e-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3912_zps9a90051e.jpg.html)

Kinda put back together. I did get all the parts painted, but it was the only car I had driving at the time.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3921_zpsf28de8ab-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3921_zpsf28de8ab.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3922_zpsb10caebc-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3922_zpsb10caebc.jpg.html)

Some of my parts I did in a different shoot.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_3873_zps3f4c91b6-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/91%20Silvia/IMG_3873_zps3f4c91b6.jpg.html)

You dont replace the parts if they are in good shape. And even if you do, Subaru sells there parts in raw plastic. Much more time consuming and materials to paint.

I'll see if I can dig up more of my paint prep pics...

Dead91silvia
07-16-2013, 06:23 AM
Forgot I had these pics...

This is an 85 Toyota we restored back in like 2008.... Same deal. Pulled all the trim and what ever else needed to be to get the best paint we could. Even the glass was pulled since most was roped in, other then the windshield.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/05/85restoyota-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/85%20toyota%20truck/85restoyota.jpg.html)

What she ended up looking like.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2012/05/85restoyota17-1.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rockinrobin_5/media/85%20toyota%20truck/85restoyota17.jpg.html)

camroncamera
07-17-2013, 02:12 PM
Forgot I had these pics...

This is an 85 Toyota we restored back in like 2008.... Same deal. Pulled all the trim and what ever else needed to be to get the best paint we could. Even the glass was pulled since most was roped in, other then the windshield.


Thanks for the pics... what is meant by glass that is "roped in"? Sounds like, that is where the rubber seals cover the edge of the frames and require pulling the glass in order to get the seals out of the way?

Muse
07-17-2013, 02:25 PM
Robin, was it you that eventually regretted the two-tone paintjob?

Dead91silvia
07-18-2013, 04:00 AM
Forgot I had these pics...

This is an 85 Toyota we restored back in like 2008.... Same deal. Pulled all the trim and what ever else needed to be to get the best paint we could. Even the glass was pulled since most was roped in, other then the windshield.


Thanks for the pics... what is meant by glass that is "roped in"? Sounds like, that is where the rubber seals cover the edge of the frames and require pulling the glass in order to get the seals out of the way?

Yeah, basically. None of the Legacy glass you need to pull, just the trim and seals. Legacy's are not that bad to prep.


Robin, was it you that eventually regretted the two-tone paintjob?
Yes, after about a month I didnt like the black any more on my Silvia. Mainly it was the dust from my driveway. I was thinking of re-painting it all red and it wouldn't have been that hard, but I crashed it before that happened.

camroncamera
07-18-2013, 10:15 AM
Thanks for the pics... what is meant by glass that is "roped in"? Sounds like, that is where the rubber seals cover the edge of the frames and require pulling the glass in order to get the seals out of the way?
Yeah, basically. None of the Legacy glass you need to pull, just the trim and seals. Legacy's are not that bad to prep.
:smt023

camroncamera
08-04-2013, 12:41 PM
Still mulling on this, but in the meantime I repainted our house lol.

Dead91silvia
08-04-2013, 05:20 PM
haha... practice makes perfect!

camroncamera
08-04-2013, 06:27 PM
haha... practice makes perfect!

Used a sprayer and it looks awesome!

camroncamera
09-19-2013, 02:57 PM
BUMP

Finally picked up some prep supplies from the auto body supply store. No paint yet, but I will spend some time in the next couple weeks prepping the Limited bumper and some trim bits for shooting. There are some light scuff and gouges in the plastic that need to be filled, blended, and primed.

I will have to come up with some sort of paint booth. I have an oversized 1-car detached garage. The last time I sprayed in there I ended up with overspray on everything, but I didn't "booth-in" my project with plastic sheeting or anything.

As far as finishes, should I go with mid-range (USC) or top-range (Glasurit) color and clear? The guy at the shop seemed to think I should go with a mid-range product. The top-range seemed quite expensive, but he said that is what the good shops in town use.

Dead91silvia
09-19-2013, 03:37 PM
What brands are those?

This is what I use..

PPG DP Sealer. Keeps things from lifting and other crap.
PPG DBC base coat... Covers good
Omni High Solids clear. Seems to work pretty good for the price.

camroncamera
09-19-2013, 04:05 PM
What brands are those?

This is what I use..

PPG DP Sealer. Keeps things from lifting and other crap.
PPG DBC base coat... Covers good
Omni High Solids clear. Seems to work pretty good for the price.

Thanks for the input, I don't know anything about USC (http://www.uschem.com/), and Glasurit I think is by BASF (Glasurit (https://www.basfrefinish.com/cgi-bin/capbsm/java/Sitelet.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1861037587.1379620956@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccciadfkmiiiedecefecgefdgjhdfmn.0&action=ProductsGlasurit))

camroncamera
09-27-2013, 03:21 PM
What brands are those?

This is what I use..

PPG DP Sealer. Keeps things from lifting and other crap.

This "sealer" is another term for primer, right? Is this epoxy sealer primer the product you are talking about?
http://www.ppg.com/en/newsroom/news/Pag ... 0828A.aspx (http://www.ppg.com/en/newsroom/news/Pages/20120828A.aspx)



The DPLV 2.1 Epoxy Primer line provides excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance for substrates such as properly prepared steel, aluminum, fiber glass, rigid plastics and plastic fillers. The DPLV Epoxy Primer also can be used as a sealer and topcoated with many of PPG's two-component urethane undercoats and topcoats. It is compatible with waterborne basecoats as well.

DPLV 2.1 Epoxy Primer is available in three colors: White DP48LV, Gray DP50LV and Black DP90LV. These can be blended to achieve a broad range of gray shades.

If I'm going to be painting a basecoat of "Black Mica" 47A, would I be better off with a Gray sealer or Black sealer? Seems like Gray would make it easier to see my coverage as the base goes on.

camroncamera
10-01-2013, 04:41 AM
Restoration has begun! Taking my time on this, I am really going to try for a pro-quality job. Here is the bumper as it came to me from Japan:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7794_zpsa4e6942a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7794_zpsa4e6942a.jpg.html)

It's in "great" shape, but has a few minor blemishes and is obviously the wrong color. It also has scuffed paint that goes down to the bare plastic on the right upper cheek:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7796_zps61472e9b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7796_zps61472e9b.jpg.html)

The lower right inside corner has a minor scuff, and the lower left side has a pretty bad curb rash:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7797_zpsc6472055-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7797_zpsc6472055.jpg.html)


Enlarged to show texture:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7798_zps87a4f433-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7798_zps87a4f433.jpg.html)

Broken bracket tab on the left inner side:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7815_zpsfad9c435-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7815_zpsfad9c435.jpg.html)

camroncamera
10-01-2013, 05:10 AM
I started by removing and cleaning the special Limited grille, which is in excellent condition:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7807_zps5b181a3b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7807_zps5b181a3b.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7812_zpse04dbc38-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7812_zpse04dbc38.jpg.html)

I removed the rusty license plate U-Clips, which will be later replaced by new hardware:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7813_zps8eebdc94-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7813_zps8eebdc94.jpg.html)

(BTW, the JDM license plate bolt holes are not spaced properly for USDM plates. I'll have to come up with some sort of adapter bracket.):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7818_zps5154fe93-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7818_zps5154fe93.jpg.html)

I carefully washed and rinsed the bumper with mild detergent, then wiped it down with an isopropyl alcohol/distilled water blend and clean microfiber cloth. I then closely inspected the face of the bumper for small nicks and gouges. With a 120 grit paper and rubber backing pad, I then wetsanded all of the areas which had the gouges deep enough to penetrate the paint to base plastic. I did my best to carefully smooth all roughened rashes, while trying to maintain the natural contours of the bumper:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7829_zps37afcf45-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7829_zps37afcf45.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7830_zps61461fda-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7830_zps61461fda.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7831_zps869e4165-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7831_zps869e4165.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7833_zps9ccc62b0-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7833_zps9ccc62b0.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7832_zps7dd82ef6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7832_zps7dd82ef6.jpg.html)

I made a second wetsanding pass with 320 grit over all areas that I knew I would be applying bare-plastic primer. Lastly, I thoroughly cleaned the bumper again and let it fully dry overnight.

camroncamera
10-01-2013, 05:42 AM
The next day I began the priming of the freshly-sanded areas of bare plastic, using a flexible plastic primer rattlecan product:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7840_zpsbf99332a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7840_zpsbf99332a.jpg.html)

I applied a few light coats to any area of bare plastic that had minor imperfections, and I applied somewhat heavier coats over the deeper gouges:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7841_zpse32b90c3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7841_zpse32b90c3.jpg.html)

When the first coat dried, I applied another coat, allowed to dry, then yet more coats, until the high-build primer seemed to mostly fill the gouges:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7847_zps54f39dd7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7847_zps54f39dd7.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7844_zps5587697e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7844_zps5587697e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7848_zps98f3e5a1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7848_zps98f3e5a1.jpg.html)

The inside right corner had been especially worn down, so I applied extra paint to this area in an effort to build it back up somewhat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7845_zps8a005a8c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7845_zps8a005a8c.jpg.html)

Body glaze would probably be needed to build up and sharpen that corner to the original dimensions, but I needed to see how well I could do with primer alone.

camroncamera
10-01-2013, 06:04 AM
I allowed all the primer to dry over the following weekend. When I was able to return to the project, I wetsanded with 320 grit to reshape all of the primer-filled gouges:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7890_zps2804c17b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7890_zps2804c17b.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7897_zps85865b41-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7897_zps85865b41.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7903_zpsf809ed77-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7903_zpsf809ed77.jpg.html)

Some tiny voids that the primer left will still need to be filled, but those deep gouges are barely there.:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7902_zps4b74c4f4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7902_zps4b74c4f4.jpg.html)

Since both inside corners had already been rashed, I softened the right inside corner somewhat to match the left:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7891_zpsf860258a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7891_zpsf860258a.jpg.html)

I wetsanded the entire bumper with 320, removing most all of the primer except for the gouges that were filled. This also removed the glossy factory finish of the paint, changing it to a satiny look. I washed the bumper thoroughly again, allowed to dry, and will hit those bare plastic areas once more with a very light coat of plastic primer.

camroncamera
10-03-2013, 07:11 PM
Primer alone wasn't giving me the thickness I wanted to build back those inside corners. I had some old body glaze laying around:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7913_zps4ff07b3e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7913_zps4ff07b3e.jpg.html)

Unfortunately, it was 7 years old and, even after thoroughly mixing with hardener, its consistency had gone thick and tacky, so spreading didn't go very smoothly:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7914_zpsd7e91d4e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7914_zpsd7e91d4e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7915_zpsd373c9f1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7915_zpsd373c9f1.jpg.html)

I was able to sand it down smooth with quite a bit of effort:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7917_zps6db8525a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7917_zps6db8525a.jpg.html)

I used a second can of spraybomb primer to do additional build:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7921_zps2357dc55-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7921_zps2357dc55.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7925_zps1dbbc891-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7925_zps1dbbc891.jpg.html)

This stuff went on thicker than the first can I was using, but I had to be careful not to build up layers so thick that they wouldn't harden. More sanding, more spraying, rinse and repeat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7943_zps153b9c54-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7943_zps153b9c54.jpg.html)

Trying my durndest to get accurate contours, as if it were a factory-new part. Started out with edges too rounded, then built it up and the edges were too creased. Still going at it with sanding and respraying, but I'm getting closer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7923_zps87fcb310-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7923_zps87fcb310.jpg.html)

camroncamera
10-03-2013, 09:20 PM
Almost there... just needs the slightest tweak...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7944_zpsfddc6477-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7944_zpsfddc6477.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7946_zps4275b17e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7946_zps4275b17e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7947_zps0e36e1e8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7947_zps0e36e1e8.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7949_zps940e6f2b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7949_zps940e6f2b.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7953_zps87590de9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7953_zps87590de9.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7956_zps2d700f91-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7956_zps2d700f91.jpg.html)

camroncamera
10-04-2013, 04:33 AM
I think I'm finally happy with the shaping of the inside corners.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7967_zpsb98c068e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7967_zpsb98c068e.jpg.html)
Before:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7797_zpsc6472055-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7797_zpsc6472055.jpg.html)
After:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_7962_zpse6ce9cfb-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7962_zpse6ce9cfb.jpg.html)

Now that the rashes have been healed, I am ready to do final wetsand on the primer. Then I can perform surface prep with a Scotchbrite pad plus Final Sand paste on the remainder of the factory white paint. After that will be final cleaning, rinsing, drying, tack-cloth wiping, and then I think it will finally be ready for sealer, base, and clear.

98legwag
10-04-2013, 07:22 AM
Looks great so far.

Dead91silvia
10-04-2013, 12:05 PM
Looks like you got it figured out pretty good!

One thing to keep in mind, since it will be black, ANY imperfection in the part will show, unlike white that hide them well.

Looks like you have that figured out pretty well though.

camroncamera
10-04-2013, 01:33 PM
Thanks guys. Might be a couple weeks until I can shoot it... In the meantime I will try to prep the JDM mirrors, sidemarkers, JDM spats, JDM red badge L7 grille, side and rear skirts, etc. Not sure if I should be prepping and shooting those skirts before I'm ready to shoot the rest of the car, because that means I'll just have to take them off again later. Might be awhile (if ever) before I shoot the whole car though, and it'd be nice to have them painted up sooner rather than later.

camroncamera
10-13-2013, 08:41 PM
Worked on the JDM power folding mirrors this weekend. Still need to disassemble the right side for conversion.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8088_zps4f9c533f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8088_zps4f9c533f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8084_zps77ae77d2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8084_zps77ae77d2.jpg.html)

The left side mirror was suffering from a loose fastener on the pivot pin so I was following the repair DIY over at http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.ph ... ntry652304 (http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/108740-fix-a-floppy-bg5-door-mirror/page__st__20#entry652304)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8142Edit_zpsce9a75ab-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8142-Edit_zpsce9a75ab.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8150_zps30bbac78-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8150_zps30bbac78.jpg.html)

camroncamera
10-15-2013, 05:58 PM
Modding the USDM bases to fit the JDM folding motor mounts:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8193_zps3d0098c0-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8193_zps3d0098c0.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8195_zps641959bf-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8195_zps641959bf.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8271_zpsb2c3d2af-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8271_zpsb2c3d2af.jpg.html)

USDM Mirror housings, a bit banged up but solid enough to refinish:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8283_zps76f6e58c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8283_zps76f6e58c.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8284_zpsd84d4b09-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8284_zpsd84d4b09.jpg.html)

Left sanded:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8287_zps643d44d3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8287_zps643d44d3.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8290_zpsdf593a42-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8290_zpsdf593a42.jpg.html)

Right sanded:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8293_zpsf0875028-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8293_zpsf0875028.jpg.html)

For some reason one mirror housing was molded in black plastic, the other was molded in grey plastic, covered in white primer, and black spraypaint over that.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8295_zps7d00333e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8295_zps7d00333e.jpg.html)

Adhesion promoter for the bare plastic mirror:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8296_zps41eaebfa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8296_zps41eaebfa.jpg.html)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8297_zps9ce60252-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8297_zps9ce60252.jpg.html)

Couple coats of high-build primer, drying out before sanding:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8301_zps31546d53-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8301_zps31546d53.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
10-17-2013, 03:20 AM
You're doing a great job!

camroncamera
10-17-2013, 10:54 AM
You're doing a great job!

Thanks to your write-up! :smile:

camroncamera
10-17-2013, 12:36 PM
Prepping the modified USDM door mounts. Lots of little nicks to fill in:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8302_zpsf361c862-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8302_zpsf361c862.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8304_zps40cc7586-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8304_zps40cc7586.jpg.html)

Wet high-build primer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8307_zps3f9a51b5-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8307_zps3f9a51b5.jpg.html)

Sanding to level out the pitting:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8306_zps85300ebf-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8306_zps85300ebf.jpg.html)

Several sandings and recoats later:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8315_zps66c8486f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8315_zps66c8486f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8310_zps1acb45b9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8310_zps1acb45b9.jpg.html)

Question for Dead and the paint pros out there - do I need to do a final sanding on the last coat of primer to smooth out the fine texture, or do I want to leave it raw for the base coat? (Hard to see in the photos, but you can kind of spot some slight texture near the screw holes):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/10/IMG_8316_zps3fe58286-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8316_zps3fe58286.jpg.html)

camroncamera
11-07-2013, 07:45 PM
Update - Spent a week or two designing and building a reusable mini spray booth that will fit in my oddball garage. The booth is about 10'x8'x7' and suspends from the overhead roll-up garage door frame. I now have a filtered fresh air inlet fan, and will be adding a filtered exhaust outlet as well. Going to replace the droopy PVC tubing with some rigid aluminum fence poles, but the basic design seems to be effective. One or more walls can be raised, removed, or pushed aside like a shower curtain at will for access. Reassembles in half an hour or less, and each side can be rolled up for storage for later use. Completely suspended from above without the need for any upright supports.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/11/IMG_8391_zpscaaa7d20-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8391_zpscaaa7d20.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/11/IMG_8416_zpsab0c657d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8416_zpsab0c657d.jpg.html)

***EDIT: I used the aluminum fence-poles I mentioned above, but the other day I was in a Big-Box home-improvement store and I happened upon some metallic electrical conduit tubing, 10-ft lengths, in various diameters from about 1/2" on up. Cheap and light, it's what I would try if I had to do it over.***

I think I will also try to find some JDM flush door trim for this project. I would appreciate any leads.

My USDM door trim:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/IMG_7248_zps8a50409d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_7248_zps8a50409d.jpg.html)

JDM door trim (Photo credit: Reuben)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/11/IMG_9260-1.jpg (http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Pilot_Reuben/media/IMG_9260.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
11-25-2013, 03:55 PM
Any luck finding the side door moldings? They're pretty hard to find and I've only seen the RFRB ones on ebay

Dead91silvia
11-26-2013, 02:16 AM
Sorry I missed this...

You should always scuff a primed surface. If you are getting it prepped for base clear, 400 grit is the lowest you should use.

camroncamera
01-08-2014, 12:36 PM
Sorry I missed this...

You should always scuff a primed surface. If you are getting it prepped for base clear, 400 grit is the lowest you should use.
And sorry I missed your reply! Seems I'm no longer getting SL-i.net email notifications to my subbed threads or PMs. Anyway, thanks for the advice. I have put most of this paint project on temporary hold until the weather warms up again. My little plastic sheeting paint booth is pretty much done, fresh filtered forced air courtesy of a 20" box fan. Filtered exhaust as well. Was hoping to find a zippering system to join the walls at the corners, like those used for drywall projects. However, I found that those zippers don't unzip completely apart into two separate sides and thus I wouldn't be able to remove one wall from another. Right now I just have about a half-dozen mini spring clamps down each corner, squeezing the plastic edges to hold it in place for a fairly decent seal.

I've transitioned to repainting the center caps and restoring the little nicks and curbs of the 17" JDM GT-B wheels that I was able to score:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/01/IMG_8910_zps8d609f48-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_8910_zps8d609f48.jpg.html)

camroncamera
02-20-2014, 03:52 PM
In January I refinished the minor curbing on the lips, and these wheels look almost brand new! Hope to get new rubber on them in the next week.
http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.ph ... ntry668652 (http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/132090-usa-owner-of-17-bronze-jdm-bg-gt-b-wheels-what-is-the-exact-factory-color/#entry668652)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/01/IMG_9182_zpsedecf916-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9182_zpsedecf916.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/IMG_9184_zpsa62c3c2b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9184_zpsa62c3c2b.jpg.html)

camroncamera
02-21-2014, 06:17 PM
Received my JDM GT-B Wagon rear bumper yesterday. Plastic is in good shape, but the original paint is cracked and scuffed and will need to be completely stripped for prep and paint. Just talked to a local media blasting shop for an estimate, I'm looking at about $110 to get this done. It would save me a day or two of sanding by hand, and would probably give me a more consistent finish to start from.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/IMG_9318_zps28bf07d1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9318_zps28bf07d1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/IMG_9319_zps6bf9e24b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9319_zps6bf9e24b.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/IMG_9315_zpsa29d998e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9315_zpsa29d998e.jpg.html)

camroncamera
03-08-2014, 04:07 AM
Been sanding for days. 220 wetsanding, 100% by hand with a foam sanding pad and Mirka paper. It was Dead91Silvia's recommendation to avoid media blasting, so I took his advice seriously. I think I'm done removing the original paint. I sanded as much as I could while still leaving a little bit of factory basecoat on the bare plastic so that the new primer will have something to adhere to.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9406_zpscc7d3b61-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9406_zpscc7d3b61.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9403_zps53a6b82e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9403_zps53a6b82e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9407_zps6ad1b4b3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9407_zps6ad1b4b3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9422_zps3543de9a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9422_zps3543de9a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9432_zpsbf05e4c9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9432_zpsbf05e4c9.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9434_zps1859b696-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9434_zps1859b696.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/03/IMG_9443_zpsa240002c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9443_zpsa240002c.jpg.html)

camroncamera
04-02-2014, 07:27 PM
Haven't updated here in awhile but I've been continuing this project.

I just returned home from the dealership to check pricing on genuine Suby body panels and trims. Somewhere I got the idea in my head that the dealership pricing was surprisingly reasonable for new panels, but I can throw that idea out the window after today. lol
Front fenders ~$250 each
GT hood ~$500
GT side skirts ~$350 each (each!!!)
A-pillar exterior front trim strips ~$60 each

Muse
04-02-2014, 08:30 PM
GT skirts are still available? Color me impressed...

camroncamera
04-03-2014, 04:33 PM
Haven't updated here in awhile but I've been continuing this project.

I just returned home from the dealership to check pricing on genuine Suby body panels and trims. Somewhere I got the idea in my head that the dealership pricing was surprisingly reasonable for new panels, but I can throw that idea out the window after today. lol
Front fenders ~$250 each
GT hood ~$500
GT side skirts ~$350 each (each!!!)
A-pillar exterior front trim strips ~$60 each
So I think I will try to find used parts listed in the post above, instead of dealer-new. Of all the JDM parts I have collected so far, it occurs to me that everything is plastic. So, if I were to find spares of fenders and a GT hood, that would be the first metal parts I would deal with for this project.

Work finished so far:
Mini spray booth built, with filtered inlet and outlet positive-pressure air supply.
JDM 17" GT-B Wheels restored and installed on car with new Michelin 215/45/R17 tires
GT-B Limited front bumper - scrapes repaired, surface scuffed, and ready for next step
GT-B rear bumper - sanded, repaired, primed, and ready for next step
JDM mirror housings/USDM folding mirror bases - repaired, modified for LHD, primed, ready for next step
JDM sidemarkers: lens masked off, primed, ready for next step
JDM door trim strips: sanded, repaired, adhesion promoter applied, primed (might still need a slight bit of finessing at the broken corner I repaired), ready for next step
JDM spats: fairly clean, needs a true prep clean before next step
JDM GT-B grill - unprepped, needs some figuring out (see below)

Looking for spares of these parts so they can be worked on and quickly swapped on the car for minimum vehicle downtime:
Front left and right fenders
GT hood (I would prefer black, but I might be able to make do with white. Don't really want to try to repaint the underside of a used red, green, blue, etc. colored hood with all of the voids in the underside reinforcement structure.)
GT side skirts
A-pillar exterior front left and right trim strips (might get these new from dealer)

Still needs to be done:
Figure out painting logistics - my paint booth is only big enough to spray one bumper plus a few small parts at a time. I'll have to carefully plan the moving of parts taking into account the flash times of the coats.
Figure out how to hang some parts as they are painted and as they flash/dry. Some parts have no way to really hold them without interfering with the paint spray (the mirror housings and trim strips, for instance)
Spares listed above will need fully prepped, then primed/sealed, then base, then clearcoat
GT-B Limited front bumper - ready for final cleaning, then primer, then 320 wetsanding, then final cleaning, then base, then clearcoat
GT-B rear bumper - ready for final cleaning, then base, then clearcoat
JDM mirror housings/USDM folding mirror bases - ready for 320 wetsanding, then final cleaning, then base, then clearcoat
JDM sidemarkers: ready for 320 wetsanding, then final cleaning, then base, then clearcoat
JDM door trim strips: might still need a slight bit of finessing at the broken corner I repaired ready for 320 wetsanding, then final cleaning, then base, then clearcoat (I think I'll need flex agent for these).
JDM spats: needs a true prep clean immediately prior to masking, then adhesion promoter, then base/clear (I dunno if these rubber parts really get base/clear like a regular plastic part would... might need base with flex agent and gloss additive, then shot as single-stage?)
JDM GT-B grill - unprepped - flaking chrome needs sanded off, then I need to figure out how to get it rechromed with the smoked look in which originally came. I have a very nice JDM L7 Legacy badge ready to apply once the grill chrome is restored.

After that, I will still have to get all the parts fitted on the car, but I am planning to have this work coincide with a suspension upgrade (fenders off = a little more working room installing front struts), plus some wiring work for the JDM foglights (including grounding wires upgrade) and getting the JDM mirrors wired up.

camroncamera
04-03-2014, 04:56 PM
Sorry I missed this...

You should always scuff a primed surface. If you are getting it prepped for base clear, 400 grit is the lowest you should use.

Dead, could you clarify this for me? Does this mean I shouldn't use anything *finer* than 400 grit (because the base coat won't stick?) or does this mean that I shouldn't use anything *rougher* than 400 grit (sanding scratches will show through?)? I was planning on final primer wetsand of 320 grit before base/clear.

Thanks!

r3v_v3ng3
04-07-2014, 04:42 AM
Usually you want to use 400 grit sandpaper because you will end up putting base coat which will hide the 400 grit scratches for base/clear. Single stage would be no lower than 320 (paint is thicker). Some sand scratches might bleed thru if you sand it down to 320 since the base is thin to try to fill in. The reason why you use no lower than 400 grit is material and time. Your sandpaper will clog faster with finer grit and take longer to sand (600/800/1000 etc) when your prepping it. So you can use finer paper but you will just be wasting paper/time. The base will stick as long as the area being painted is clean and dull. Theres more to it but just the basic without going too technical.

Dead91silvia
04-07-2014, 11:10 AM
Usually you want to use 400 grit sandpaper because you will end up putting base coat which will hide the 400 grit scratches for base/clear. Single stage would be no lower than 320 (paint is thicker). Some sand scratches might bleed thru if you sand it down to 320 since the base is thin to try to fill in. The reason why you use no lower than 400 grit is material and time. Your sandpaper will clog faster with finer grit and take longer to sand (600/800/1000 etc) when your prepping it. So you can use finer paper but you will just be wasting paper/time. The base will stick as long as the area being painted is clean and dull. Theres more to it but just the basic without going too technical.

^ Thanks... haha

He got it right there. The only time go really go higher is if you are just going to re-clean a panel. In that case you would use no less then 600-800 grit. You could use 600 on something you cover with base, however, if you do I would recommend wet-sanding as the paper will get toasted really fast using dry.

You're doing a great job Cameron! :smt023

camroncamera
04-08-2014, 04:24 PM
Thanks guys for your helpful info. I'll be sure to do a 400 or finer wetsand pass on my primered parts before base/clear. Right now I'm at 320 wetsanded, I was afraid that anything finer would be an adhesion problem for the basecoat, but I see those fears are unfounded. Might a sealer epoxy shoot over the 320 fill everything in? Then no sanding but go straight to base?

I went to one of the local paint supply shops in town, picked up some Duplicolor chrome spray for my JDM grille restoration, and talked to the shop owner for a good twenty minutes or so and got a materials quote for enough to repaint the whole car. The brand he recommended was Matrix base and clear. He explained that Matrix is a supplier for PPG and that the formulas are virtually the same, but it costs quite a bit less, partly because of branding, and partly because there is no PPG-grade warranty coverage. He also implored me to paint the whole car instead of just fenders/doors/hood, because matching colors is a bitch. I'll shoot a practice panel first and see how close I get.

Since the wagon is a daily driver and I can't have it out of commission for more than a weekend at a time, I won't be able to strip the car down and take the time needed to prep it all at once. So I am trying to round up a lot of spare panels for my car. I'm buying the four doors, rear hatch, and passenger fender from Red85Celica's wrecked wagon. Still need spare GT side skirts, driver side fender, and most of all, a spare black GT or Outback scooped hood. I want to paint the panels off the car, then swap them on afterward.

I will need to have a good look at Red85's doors once they arrive this weekend and see if they are in better shape than mine. Mine look pretty good to begin with (8 out of 10). I'll see how his doors buff up and if the factory color on them are a perfect match for my car (I expect it will be a great match). I plan to swap and paint panels as necessary, then swap them back to the car once they are refinished. I have to decide whether to repaint my original doors so that I have matching VINs and locks, or if I should hang onto my doors as they are for spares.

My home-built paint booth is not very large, so I need to figure out how to paint as many panels as I can at one time without getting too crowded inside. I also have a limited air supply. I am worried about primer/sealer flash times and whether I can get base over sealer and clear over base within the proper adhesion window times.

Dead91silvia
04-08-2014, 06:22 PM
600 grit will work fine for sealer or base coat. I wouldnt go any finer though.

camroncamera
04-08-2014, 06:30 PM
600 grit will work fine for sealer or base coat. I wouldnt go any finer though.

Thanks Dead!

camroncamera
04-10-2014, 12:32 PM
Pics of the last couple months' worth of progress...

JDM GT-B rear bumper - sanded, repaired, step pad holes filled, primed, 320 wetsanded, and ready for next step:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9457_zps0c7bf026-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9457_zps0c7bf026.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9496_zps94e598fb-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9496_zps94e598fb.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9553_zpse60b83f4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9553_zpse60b83f4.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9541_zps118241b7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9541_zps118241b7.jpg.html)

camroncamera
04-10-2014, 02:01 PM
JDM door trim strips obtained from the UK. These were in good used condition, a little dirty. Most of the mounting tabs have been broken off. One strip cracked and chipped at the corner during shipping and required repair. A tapered end cap was being held on by silicone caulk. I cleaned them, removed the old adhesive, and repaired the chip and crack with a combination of Gorilla brand Superglue, 2-part epoxy for plastic, and a cheesy repair product from the autobody supply shop called "Q-bond". After the repairs I shaped and sanded the repaired areas, then sanded off all the original green paint (gobs of elbow grease), applied adhesion promoter, and sprayed flexible primer.

On arrival:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9606_zps7003ae26-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9606_zps7003ae26.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9603_zpsf786046e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9603_zpsf786046e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9618_zps041398e8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9618_zps041398e8.jpg.html)

Cleanup:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9625_zps7ca37df6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9625_zps7ca37df6.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9629_zps0ae1844f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9629_zps0ae1844f.jpg.html)

Hmm how to fix this??
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9630_zps8d5606db-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9630_zps8d5606db.jpg.html)

Gorilla cyanoacrylate on the crack:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9639_zps3a175a64-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9639_zps3a175a64.jpg.html)

"Q-Bond" - essentially little bottles of plastic "sand" and some basic cyanoacrylate superglue. Pour the powder into the gaps in your repair piece, then drip the glue onto the powder, and it instantly hardens.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9632_zps3e9fa81d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9632_zps3e9fa81d.jpg.html)

Cut some voids with a Dremel to give the repair material some volume:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9641_zps78842de7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9641_zps78842de7.jpg.html)

Q-Bond applied:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9644_zps040931a1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9644_zps040931a1.jpg.html)

Pulled the masking tape off the other side after the glue harned overnight. What a mess.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9645_zps3862d27d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9645_zps3862d27d.jpg.html)

Sanded the repair smooth:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9728_zpscb2c23cb-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9728_zpscb2c23cb.jpg.html)

Sanding. This took forever:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9652_zpsf610ac49-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9652_zpsf610ac49.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9654_zpsb3432f6f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9654_zpsb3432f6f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9655_zps1543e5d0-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9655_zps1543e5d0.jpg.html)

Two strips were black plastic, two strips were white plastic. Probably not originally from the same car. All cleaned up:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9650_zps508983fe-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9650_zps508983fe.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9736_zps07fe4108-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9736_zps07fe4108.jpg.html)

Two-part epoxy to fix this loose end:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9738_zps80fb09a1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9738_zps80fb09a1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9740_zpsd9a49ba4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9740_zpsd9a49ba4.jpg.html)

Prepping for primer - taped up my never-used JDM sidemarker lenses, and masked over the back of the trims where double-sided trim tape will later be applied:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9758_zps76aaf912-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9758_zps76aaf912.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9759_zpse650b845-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9759_zpse650b845.jpg.html)

Adhesion promoter and flexible primer sprayed:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9765_zps0a167067-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9765_zps0a167067.jpg.html)

camroncamera
04-10-2014, 02:44 PM
JDM grille I got awhile back for cheap. Chrome is flaking off pretty badly so I am going to try to restore it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9904_zpsd8d3b060-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9904_zpsd8d3b060.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9908_zps8b59f01b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9908_zps8b59f01b.jpg.html)

Taped the edges so I don't oversand the boundaries, and started in with some 220 grit. Another thankless job. I need to put in another hour or so because of all the curves and nooks.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9924_zpsde26049c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9924_zpsde26049c.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9925_zps85f5b266-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9925_zps85f5b266.jpg.html)

This is the product I will try out. I read very mixed reviews, so I'm not getting my hopes up too much. It requires very careful prep with a very finely sanded primer underneath. Another complication is that the JDM grille factory chome is "smoked" or darkened a little bit, and this product is bright chrome. Dead has said that one way to get the smoked chrome appearance is to shoot clearcoat, tinted with a little bit of black base, over chrome. This is what I will probably try. I don't know if there is a flash window to shoot clear over this chrome spray or not - I don't want to wait too long after putting the chrome down if the clear won't adhere.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_9930_zps8b24036d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9930_zps8b24036d.jpg.html)

camroncamera
04-15-2014, 06:18 PM
After a few hours of careful sanding on the JDM grille, I finally removed 99% of the old chrome. Because it was so much fussy work doing all of this, I am probably not going to use the spray chrome after all. If the chrome spray sucks, I don't look forward to redoing all of this. I will probably shoot it in Black Granite Pearl to match the car. If I really want chrome I will consider getting another JDM grille in better original condition.

The center section is coated black from the factory, but the bare plastic is grey underneath the paint and chrome. It almost looks like it has been primed but that is just bare plastic:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0037_zpsc88fd60a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0037_zpsc88fd60a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0047_zpsd0c18024-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0047_zpsd0c18024.jpg.html)https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0054_zps427bd0a2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0054_zps427bd0a2.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0049_zpse755a528-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0049_zpse755a528.jpg.html)

I masked the black painted edges to protect them from getting accidentally sanded, but couple a places got slightly nicked anyway.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0055_zpse58d0427-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0055_zpse58d0427.jpg.html)

I then spent a least an hour masking it up for primer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0058_zps9430defa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0058_zps9430defa.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0061_zpsa64a2b54-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0061_zpsa64a2b54.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_0062_zps0897c9d5-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0062_zps0897c9d5.jpg.html)

Muse
04-15-2014, 06:47 PM
Your dedication is astounding. I have no good workspace to do this kind of thing, so all of my work tends to be quick and dirty.

camroncamera
04-15-2014, 07:36 PM
Your dedication is astounding. I have no good workspace to do this kind of thing, so all of my work tends to be quick and dirty.

Thanks... the down side is that this car is sort of consuming my life right now. lol

Muse
04-15-2014, 08:34 PM
Eh. I haven't got a life, so that'd be fine by me. :lol:

camroncamera
05-10-2014, 06:06 PM
Time for an update I suppose.

Grille primed in grey and sanded with 400 grit:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0100_zps238d353a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0100_zps238d353a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0101_zps5ee066a6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0101_zps5ee066a6.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0399_zpsbb15a0aa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0399_zpsbb15a0aa.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0405_zps99044d7d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0405_zps99044d7d.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-10-2014, 06:08 PM
I got a couple cheap IKEA wire racks with casters to stack and roll parts around easily.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0415_zpse7637a66-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0415_zpse7637a66.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0416_zps4a49aab4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0416_zps4a49aab4.jpg.html)

I put my trusty sawhorse on a furniture dolly, but I needed a flat board between them for the legs to fit:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0229_zps8d6637ad-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0229_zps8d6637ad.jpg.html)

I over-engineered this easy-change filter system for the inlet air fan. I probably should have just taped the
filters into place, but oh well lol:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0197_zps9d59dac9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0197_zps9d59dac9.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0204_zpsbce8177e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0204_zpsbce8177e.jpg.html)

The slot in the paint booth sheeting where the fan goes:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0205_zps8e54600b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0205_zps8e54600b.jpg.html)

Inlet fan in position:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0417_zpsb1228e70-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0417_zpsb1228e70.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-10-2014, 06:10 PM
GT Sideskirts cleaned, scuffed, and scratches filled. Needs a pass of adhesion promoter then some high-build-
primer in black and then sanded to fill in the texture of the bare plastic:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0285_zps63a0987e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0285_zps63a0987e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0286_zpsdae887a1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0286_zpsdae887a1.jpg.html)https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0297_zpse42381b4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0297_zpse42381b4.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0308_zpsc89abb5a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0308_zpsc89abb5a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0314_zpsd00b595c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0314_zpsd00b595c.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0324_zpsc4c8c801-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0324_zpsc4c8c801.jpg.html)

Filler sanded smooth with 220/320 grit:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0327_zps60f7def3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0327_zps60f7def3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0328_zps5af45ce7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0328_zps5af45ce7.jpg.html)

Handy dandy sawhorse on wheels in action:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0418_zpsb31257ec-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0418_zpsb31257ec.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-10-2014, 06:25 PM
Also on tap is to color match these JDM Mud Guards/Spats. They are flexible rubber so they will require special attention (flex agent). I wondered if I ought to leave the side that faces the tire unpainted, but I was told by Huffer to paint/clear the entire exterior:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0223_zpsf9191860-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0223_zpsf9191860.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0227_zps69f98f1f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0227_zps69f98f1f.jpg.html)

Cleaning them up... all 4 spats had the old original mounting tape still stuck on the back. The tape on the two rear spats came up fairly well:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0332_zps0f33ab34-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0332_zps0f33ab34.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0333_zps98f6ac5e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0333_zps98f6ac5e.jpg.html)

...But the two front spats had horrible, torn and dried up mounting tape that wouldn't let go:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0365_zps30839a9f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0365_zps30839a9f.jpg.html)
Ugh this job SUCKED big time lol
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0369_zps9f1ad056-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0369_zps9f1ad056.jpg.html)
Yummy gummy:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0368_zps42e50fb6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0368_zps42e50fb6.jpg.html)

Cleaned, cleaned, cleaned, and finally clean, will be ready for fresh 3M trim tape when it's time to mount them up after paint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0379_zps7e367495-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0379_zps7e367495.jpg.html)
Ready for the next step before color-matched paint. Should I scuff the smooth surfaces with 400 grit, then apply adhesion promoter, then skip primer and go straight to base coat? Should I do base/clear with flex agent? Or should I do single-stage Black Granite Pearl with gloss and flex agents to keep the build thin, but glossy and flexible?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0388_zps14035c13-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0388_zps14035c13.jpg.html)

If I paint the whole exterior of the spats, I hope that this situation doesn't destroy the paint on the side that faces the tires come wintertime:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_9234_zps23f2a9df-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_9234_zps23f2a9df.jpg.html)

Dead91silvia
05-10-2014, 06:50 PM
The paint on the inside will get messed up. It did on mine.

camroncamera
05-10-2014, 07:52 PM
The paint on the inside will get messed up. It did on mine.

Thanks Dead, in that case I will probably make a soft edge transition at the crease.

camroncamera
05-12-2014, 01:21 PM
So, how would you paint a part all around (including inside edges) that you can't hold with your hand (handling marks in wet paint), can't set down before spraying (one side or the other won't get painted) or after spraying (wet paint gets ruined), can't hang loosely on a stick or cylinder (would make a paint spray shadow or might get blown around from the air pressure of the paint gun), but still be able to securely grab or turn over to get complete coverage? Here is what I came up with, lol:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0410_zps4a47530a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0410_zps4a47530a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0411_zps859156a1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0411_zps859156a1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0412_zps4e5df111-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0412_zps4e5df111.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0413_zps9074f34f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0413_zps9074f34f.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
05-16-2014, 04:01 AM
Lovin the home made booth! Are you using spray can or gun? Looking good so far, can't wait till its all done.

camroncamera
05-16-2014, 01:51 PM
Lovin the home made booth!
Thanks, here is the only wide shot I have, with one wall open for access:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0446_zps17784722-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0446_zps17784722.jpg.html)


Are you using spray can or gun? Looking good so far, can't wait till its all done.
Thanks, I have a pair of cheapie HVLP spray guns. I got them several years ago from Costco, of all places:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_43322_zps1d0b24cd-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_4332-2_zps1d0b24cd.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-24-2014, 05:05 PM
I have been posting updates more frequently on the SL-i Facebook page, so I will be trying to carry over some of those posts over to here.

I had asked for some advice on refinishing the faded BK roof rack and these window trim pieces as part of my repaint project. Dead and others told me to use rubberized trim paint, so that will come in good time.The trims come from the factory with a slightly rubberized finish. Over time, they have developed a crackled appearance, like cracking clearcoat. The window trim looks like shiny metal underneath, and has a flexible tape-like coating on top:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0457_zpsa370039a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0457_zpsa370039a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0454_zps98bbb174-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0454_zps98bbb174.jpg.html)

The giant closeup of my thumbnail marks shows how soft the trim is:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0452_zps3445e656-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0452_zps3445e656.jpg.html)

Here are a couple version of the trim paint product:
Gloss Black, Aerosol: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LKP1I/ref ... W6E8C7FINI (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LKP1I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TJ6ZBUUA6HA5&coliid=I2ZLW6E8C7FINI)
Gloss Black, Pint: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3I0JZ4/ref ... ZUE1EJ1UE3 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3I0JZ4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TJ6ZBUUA6HA5&coliid=I82ZUE1EJ1UE3)
Matte Black, Aerosol: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EM019O/ref ... 9MO8ZHXJTS (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EM019O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TJ6ZBUUA6HA5&coliid=IHN9MO8ZHXJTS)

I tried various trim conditioners last year when I spent a couple days detailing the car and evaluating the overall paint. I couldn't get those marks out at that time, so last week I tested wetsanding with 1500 grit, followed by various polishing compounds. With a bit of work, some of the marks will buff out. I don't know it I can match the factory glossy finish afterwards, though:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0514_zps8d6b752e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0514_zps8d6b752e.jpg.html)

Closeup - gently wetsanded at 1500 grit, before polish:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0515_zpsd172b6a5-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0515_zpsd172b6a5.jpg.html)

One of a few polishing compounds I tried (by hand, not machine):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0520_zpsf3b90b2e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0520_zpsf3b90b2e.jpg.html)

The last product I applied before wrapping up tests that day:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0540_zps53043b7d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0540_zps53043b7d.jpg.html)

Closeup of the polished, tested trim (left) vs. untested, unpolished trim (right):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0543_zpsc97993f7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0543_zpsc97993f7.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-26-2014, 05:11 PM
I had to troubleshoot my small HVLP gun... last used several years ago, all the old seals/O-rings were swollen, broken, or dried out. I ordered a rebuild kit from ebay a couple months ago and finally got around to putting the thing together. Generic gun with basic diagrams in the documentation aren't specific enough to tell me which exact O-ring goes where, but I think I might have finally solved all of the air leaks and material leaks:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0664_zpsa7f7a485-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0664_zpsa7f7a485.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0666_zpseee688b7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0666_zpseee688b7.jpg.html)

Made it to the paint shop late in the day last week and picked up some material at NorthWest Auto Paint Supplies (black epoxy sealer, clear, reducer, flex and activator). They did a test mix of my paint code 54A Black Granite Pearl, but it didn't come out right, so they asked me to leave my gas flap so they could try to mix it correctly the following day. I brought lots of photos, a couple trim parts that will be painted, and my small and large generic HVLP guns for them to see what I'm working with. I've managed in the past to successfully paint single-stage, panel-at-a-time with my small gun on my little compressor, and it would work well on mirrors, trims, and spats, but the paint shop guy said that gun would be too small for 2-stage work on the larger items (bumpers) that I have ready to shoot. My compressor is 110V, 1.5HP, 15 gal, 4.9SCFM @ 40PSI and is just adequate for my small gun, but the big gun consumes 10CFM @ 43PSI, so I thought I was going to have to catch some bigger air. I spent an afternoon doing some testing, and I think I will be able to make it work with the compressor I have.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0668_zpsf7087a65-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0668_zpsf7087a65.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-26-2014, 05:12 PM
Custom mix Subaru 54A Black Granite Pearl. The first base coat test mix that the paint shop tried came out very brown, so they had me leave the gas door with them overnight as a reference so they could try again the following day. I picked up my base coat the following day, they told me that they nailed the color on the next try. I haven't cracked open the can yet to see. There is only 2 quarts or less in that 1 gallon can.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0674_zps13e7efe3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0674_zps13e7efe3.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-29-2014, 11:40 AM
Again attacking the problems of handling and "wraparound paint", I built some holders for my JDM Door Trim Strips. They are ~1"x2" boards cut to length and drilled where the trim mounting tabs fit through. The boards were covered in blue masking take to keep wood splinters from blowing around into my wet paint. They are just wide enough to be stable when set down on a flat surface, but just narrow enough that the bottom edges of the trims are not obscured by the boards, so the bottom edges can be painted:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0548_zps4d457208-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0548_zps4d457208.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0646_zps82c9728d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0646_zps82c9728d.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0649_zps3adfff36-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0649_zps3adfff36.jpg.html)

Then they were taped with extra sticky green tape to the trims to keep them in place. The boards also solve the problem of the trim strips being very flexible and quite droopy if not supported along their entire length:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0657_zpsabeeba66-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0657_zpsabeeba66.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0661_zpsf5356105-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0661_zpsf5356105.jpg.html)

Holds fast, even upside down:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0662_zpsf69fd6da-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0662_zpsf69fd6da.jpg.html)

camroncamera
05-29-2014, 12:21 PM
I shot epoxy primer over my GT side skirts to get things kicked off and test my setups. The guy at the paint shop told me to skip the reducer in the mix on the first two coats if I wanted to fill in the fine texture and get a smooth finish. I had already sanded the skirts down pretty smooth, then sprayed adhesion promoter and spotted in spraycan primer over the filled scratches, and then wetsanded everything quite flat, so there was really very little texture left. The epoxy went down with more texture than I was hoping, so I had to sand it down nice and smooth again before I shoot the sealer coat.

Bare plastic, filled and sanded fairly smooth before primer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0418_zpsb31257ec-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0418_zpsb31257ec.jpg.html)

Adhesion promoter:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0684_zps530d3cf2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0684_zps530d3cf2.jpg.html)

Spot primer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0689_zpse4cf7398-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0689_zpse4cf7398.jpg.html)

Wetsanded and cleaned:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0683_zps80c767fc-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0683_zps80c767fc.jpg.html)

Epoxy primer sprayed from the big HVLP gun, after another pass of adhesion promoter:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0703_zpsd0fab774-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0703_zpsd0fab774.jpg.html)

That fine texture of the unreduced epoxy primer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0704_zps84e41a2c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0704_zps84e41a2c.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0706_zps796c3691-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0706_zps796c3691.jpg.html)

Epoxy wetsanded smooth with 400 grit, thoroughly cleaned, and ready for sealer coat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_0731_zps703ad898-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0731_zps703ad898.jpg.html)

Sloanaconda
05-29-2014, 02:24 PM
simply incredible!!!!!! looks amazing, I cant wait to see everything done and mounted. Love it man I just love it!

camroncamera
05-30-2014, 01:38 PM
simply incredible!!!!!! looks amazing, I cant wait to see everything done and mounted. Love it man I just love it!
Haha thanks, I've never known anyone to get so excited by primered parts! lol
Thanks for the kind words though. I hit a speedbump with my first basecoat/clearcoat test, so hopefully I can get that solved and your excitement (and mine) will be justified :)

camroncamera
06-17-2014, 12:22 PM
I continue to work on this project, even though the updates here haven't been keeping up.

A couple weeks ago I shot basecoat/clearcoat with flex additive on a piece of test sheetmetal and the four rubber JDM spats. My logic was that I wanted to be sure that I had an accurate color mix before shooting sealer on the plastic parts such as the bumpers, since that would put me in a 24-hour recoat window. If it turned out my color mix was off, I probably couldn't get it corrected before the recoat window had expired. Since I figured the flexible rubber spats should have a minimum material build to help keep them flexible, I felt I did not need to apply epoxy sealer to the spats (and the paint shop was in agreement). The spats would become part of my sprayout test along with the scrap of sheetmetal.

The color was good, but I was plagued by a contamination problem of some sort which caused some ugly "fish eye" defects. I undertook a lot of troubleshooting, but was unable to determine *exactly* what the problem was. However, I think there may have been a surface irregularity issue with the rubber surface of the spats that was part of the problem, even though they were repeatedly cleaned, scuffed, and sprayed with adhesion promoter prior to basecoat.

I sanded down much of the work, resprayed basecoat, and had some improvements but there were still defects due to operator error. If I remember correctly at this point I had intended to shoot clear at this stage, but the batch I had mixed had already gelled up in the mixing cup and couldn't be sprayed. I called it a day at that point and decided to start fresh the next day.

I sanded everything down to a smooth surface again with a much finer grit, resprayed base coat again, then took stock of the items. I was still finding some minor imperfections, so I carefully wetsanded the surface yet again, this time being very careful to not burn though the last layer. A week or two later I finally did I respray the clearcoat, and thankfully, no more fish eyes. It wasn't until later that I read that metallic basecoat is not supposed to be directly wetsanded due to color shifts, so the spats came out slightly less dark than the other parts. I also had a significant dry clearcoat overspray issue in the paint booth for the spats and several other parts as well, so many items had to be carefully wetsanded (1000/1500/2000/4000 grits) and then polished up afterwards. As you might imagine, I am pretty sick of wetsanding, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do, right?

Basecoat/clearcoat test - color and gloss are good, but orange peel and fish eyes are bad:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0773_zpseb62da93-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0773_zpseb62da93.jpg.html)

Spats - first attempt. Fish eyes, yuck.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0775_zpsd829dcf3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0775_zpsd829dcf3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0776_zpsa6c232d4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0776_zpsa6c232d4.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0777_zps4008c6ed-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0777_zps4008c6ed.jpg.html)

At least the paint shop's custom color mix was a great match. Here the freshly painted/clearcoated spat is compared to the original factory finish of the gas door:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0781_zps0b9cb790-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0781_zps0b9cb790.jpg.html)

Defects sanded away, but I not only burned through the top clearcoat, but also the basecoat down to the bare rubber:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0791_zps53e25e8b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0791_zps53e25e8b.jpg.html)

Re-sprayed basecoat. Sanding scratches are still pretty obvious underneath:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0809_zpsea428666-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0809_zpsea428666.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0811_zps9a6e1937-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0811_zps9a6e1937.jpg.html)

The ring of burn-through can be seen under the fresh basecoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0813_zpsa7963827-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0813_zpsa7963827.jpg.html)

I waited too long to spray the remainder of this batch of clearcoat with flex additive - it turned into a dead jellyfish on the beach:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0798_zpsd669dec6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0798_zpsd669dec6.jpg.html)

It's actually I good thing I didn't shoot that clear, because I wanted to re-sand at 1000 grit to conceal my sanding marks from my prior work:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0817_zps4f248f4f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0817_zps4f248f4f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0819_zps6e4932b9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0819_zps6e4932b9.jpg.html)

A third(!) attempt at basecoat and I put it on a little heavy... I had a sag in the wet paint that never fully flowed flat on one spat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0829_zps4426abfa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0829_zps4426abfa.jpg.html)

Sand again. Fun times. lol. Special attention to the sag to flatten it out. This was before I learned not to sand metallic basecoat before applying clearcoat.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0833_zps5fe69c98-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0833_zps5fe69c98.jpg.html)

Ready to respray clearcoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0843_zps3e54f838-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0843_zps3e54f838.jpg.html)

A few days after clearcoat... I had to wetsand and polish the orange peel and overspray.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1008_zps95a5e7fd-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1008_zps95a5e7fd.jpg.html)

Again, the flex additive seemed to turn the clearcoat mix into a gummy consistency before I was finished shooting, and my parts ended up with a fibrous mess when I tried to spray the second coat of clear:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1009_zps46d17e35-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1009_zps46d17e35.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1010_zps02d0536d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1010_zps02d0536d.jpg.html)

Finally shiny:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1005_zps74fe62c2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1005_zps74fe62c2.jpg.html)

Muse
06-18-2014, 08:33 PM
Maaan, you have incredible patience... Honestly, between you and Robin, I think the PNW is set for good paint guys... If you somehow got Thom out there to care for the cars after they're painted, everyone on the forum would migrate there...

camroncamera
06-19-2014, 01:32 AM
Maaan, you have incredible patience... Honestly, between you and Robin, I think the PNW is set for good paint guys... If you somehow got Thom out there to care for the cars after they're painted, everyone on the forum would migrate there...
Mostly it's a comedy of errors, but hey, I'm learning, right? lol I havent posted the pics yet, but my GT sideskirts came out great with the base and clear. Everything else... needs additional work.

I do remember Thom mentioning wanting to move to the PNW someday, and I know we'd love to have him over here :)

camroncamera
06-24-2014, 10:09 PM
I decided that my paint booth was not accessible enough... so I had my buddy help me install drywall zippers for much easier ingress/egress.
Before:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0702_zps32500056-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0702_zps32500056.jpg.html)

Installation:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0711_zps66a0df50-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0711_zps66a0df50.jpg.html)

Product:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0721_zpscb0836e4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0721_zpscb0836e4.jpg.html)

Installed:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0718_zps90a8fec4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0718_zps90a8fec4.jpg.html)

Ridiculously posed Action Shot (to demonstrate the ease of rolling items in or out of the booth):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0720_zpsf1c26181-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0720_zpsf1c26181.jpg.html)

Booth sealed and filtered fan pumping air inside:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0716_zps06662c79-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0716_zps06662c79.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-24-2014, 10:32 PM
After the experiment with the spats, I moved forward with epoxy sealer on the rest of the parts:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0847_zps2b3659d3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0847_zps2b3659d3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0852_zps6e0f5482-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0852_zps6e0f5482.jpg.html)

I had trouble with dry overspray build-up with the sealer:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0851_zps83d392fa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0851_zps83d392fa.jpg.html)

A lot of it ends up on the floor or in the outlet filter:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0855_zpsb82db4ad-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0855_zpsb82db4ad.jpg.html)

Due to the overspray buildup, I was forced to sand my parts smooth again before base coat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0867_zps5811c506-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0867_zps5811c506.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0870_zps4124917a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0870_zps4124917a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0877_zps440bdb32-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0877_zps440bdb32.jpg.html)

I missed my 24-hour recoat window to shoot basecoat over my no-sand epoxy sealer, so unfortunately I was forced to sand all of my parts. And clean them. And address any burn-through spots along a few edges, etc. Here they are staged together after sanding/cleaning:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0879_zps3b8d2e65-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0879_zps3b8d2e65.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-24-2014, 11:12 PM
I had some pretty big concerns about getting complete base coat coverage into all of the nooks and crannies of the front bumper (foglight cutouts and lower "vents"), and the grille (a deep, narrow channel on the inside edge of the main surround). I addressed these areas by shooting base coat with my little airbrush, which is perfect for detail work, before shooting everything with the big HVLP gun:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0903_zpsbb46ff48-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0903_zpsbb46ff48.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0881_zps6f93935e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0881_zps6f93935e.jpg.html)https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0887_zps5103195f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0887_zps5103195f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0890_zps7d4dcd12-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0890_zps7d4dcd12.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0884_zps973e9d20-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0884_zps973e9d20.jpg.html)

In this way I would be SURE that I would not miss coverage on any of the difficult-to-reach interior zones of the bumper with the bulky HVLP gun:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0891_zps282d13b1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0891_zps282d13b1.jpg.html)

For the grill surround, I was able to get great coverage with the airbrush, no HVLP needed:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0900_zpsd400c4d1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0900_zpsd400c4d1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0899_zpse354fc98-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0899_zpse354fc98.jpg.html)

Outside in the daylight I was able to confirm complete coverage into the recessed channel around the surround:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0917_zps62640d79-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0917_zps62640d79.jpg.html)

Same story with the sidemarkers:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0902_zpsed1cdb38-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0902_zpsed1cdb38.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0906_zps6dd9d280-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0906_zps6dd9d280.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-25-2014, 03:12 PM
So finally I broke out the big gun! First coat of base color went on. I again had some minor dry-spray issues due to my inexperience, and I also encountered some unexpected texture with the sealer coat, leading me to decide on another base coat spray session:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0920_zps2e893642-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0920_zps2e893642.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0921_zps9b62a03f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0921_zps9b62a03f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0924_zpse3ce2b85-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0924_zpse3ce2b85.jpg.html)

I had a sag on one of my GT sideskirts, dag nabit! I knew I needed to address this before recoating. I don't seem to have any photos of this step, but the sag was carefully sanded flat with a block and 800 grit IIRC:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0923_zps0ae3ba64-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0923_zps0ae3ba64.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-25-2014, 03:26 PM
Okay, I learned that one is not supposed to sand basecoat prior to clearcoat (not metallics, at least). Knowing that I would be recoating many items, I used this chance to sand away any dust nibs before the next coat of base color. I used my airbrush to spot in some basecoat again over those sanded spots. I wondered if the airbrush touchup spots, which were obvious without clearcoat, would blend in under the clear, but I didn't want to risk it, so any item that had been spot-touched got completely resprayed with basecoat with the big HVLP gun.

After the second coat of base color, I had a fairly thick build. Probably much more the necessary. It's difficult to know when to stop shooting when you've never shot base/clear before. I was pretty much shooting until it looked like I had a nice, consistent finish:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0925_zps79776c20-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0925_zps79776c20.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0930_zpsb9500b47-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0930_zpsb9500b47.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0942_zps1313a798-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0942_zps1313a798.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0944_zps76b7714c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0944_zps76b7714c.jpg.html)

Slight orange peel and a few dust flecks, darnitol!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0943_zps1715a304-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0943_zps1715a304.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0946_zpsc0fda1ba-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0946_zpsc0fda1ba.jpg.html)

Door trims:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0951_zpsfdcd82b4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0951_zpsfdcd82b4.jpg.html)

Mirror housings:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0953_zpsb470df3a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0953_zpsb470df3a.jpg.html)

Rear bumper after final coat of base color:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0955_zps0b7bf4a2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0955_zps0b7bf4a2.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0954_zpse12bcaee-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0954_zpse12bcaee.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0956_zps36d467d0-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0956_zps36d467d0.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-27-2014, 05:03 AM
First major coat of clear on most of the parts:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0972_zps069e67f8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0972_zps069e67f8.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0973_zps238b142a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0973_zps238b142a.jpg.html)

Pretty darn thrilled with the color match to the factory paint:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0964_zps22db7970-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0964_zps22db7970.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0959_zps66adbdba-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0959_zps66adbdba.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0962_zps9fa2eba3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0962_zps9fa2eba3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0963_zpsc068dd5f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0963_zpsc068dd5f.jpg.html)

But, again I ran into pot life and overspray issues on some parts, just like what happened with the spats. The JDM flush door trims got a nice smooth first coat, then a sort of fuzzy second coat as my clear began to gel up in the gun cannister:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0975_zps238d44f9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0975_zps238d44f9.jpg.html)

The GT sideskirts came out nearly flawless, with high gloss and only minor orange-peel:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1034_zps30e98dd7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1034_zps30e98dd7.jpg.html)

The bumpers were more inconsistent. I had some nice shiny areas, and some areas with some dry spray that did not melt in evenly. I made the decision to wetsand the bumpers with 600/1000 grit before another coat of clear... more on that in a bit. Same was true for the mirror housings. The door trims, however, I decided to try wetsanding smooth and then compounding/polishing, without an addition layer of clearcoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0984_zps8f542084-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0984_zps8f542084.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0982_zps5f2887fa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0982_zps5f2887fa.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0983_zpse85f6ebe-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0983_zpse85f6ebe.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0990_zps56ac3692-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0990_zps56ac3692.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0985_zpsa5547e76-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0985_zpsa5547e76.jpg.html)

With quite a lot of work I was able to get them to shine, although on very close inspection there is some deeper scratches that remain. I was fearful of burning through the clearcoat so I let them be for now:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_0979_zps29ce4ca5-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_0979_zps29ce4ca5.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1000_zpsda51fcb8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1000_zpsda51fcb8.jpg.html)

All four trims polished up:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1002_zpsb6961502-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1002_zpsb6961502.jpg.html)

camroncamera
06-27-2014, 05:11 AM
As mentioned in the previous post, I came to the decision that I would wetsand the clearcoat on the front and rear bumpers and the mirror housings, due to an inconsistent finish on my first clearcoat spray session. The goal was to flatten all the orange peel and dry-spray surfaces down with 600grit papers (primarily Sun-Might brand from Korea) wrapped around a foam block, with some smaller areas with complex shapes sanded mainly without a block. Most surfaces were followed up with 1000 grit Abralon sanding pads by hand. The parts were carefully washed, rinsed, and wiped down with a denatured alcohol/distilled water spray, then set aside to dry for a day or two. This was about three days of hard work. One has to take very special care NOT to burn through the clearcoat to the base color below. I did end up with a couple minor boo-boos that would later be addressed. I started my sanding work in the garage, but when the sun was shining I found that I had a much easier time seeing my sanding progress outside in bright daylight vs. a handheld fluorescent work light.

Mirrors wetsanded and cleaned, ready for next coat of clear.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1014_zps83020829-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1014_zps83020829.jpg.html)

The dark spots are low points in the clear that the sandpaper did not reach. I had concerned that they might show through the next layer of clear but I think that is wasn't a problem:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1015_zps13d2601f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1015_zps13d2601f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1016_zpsc90850e5-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1016_zpsc90850e5.jpg.html)

Wetsanding the first layer of clear on the bumpers:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1028_zpse1aee184-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1028_zpse1aee184.jpg.html)

Complex shapes are a pain to sand consistent and flat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1029_zps80552928-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1029_zps80552928.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1030_zpsc258c045-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1030_zpsc258c045.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1032_zpse9c5b0ac-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1032_zpse9c5b0ac.jpg.html)

Took the work outside in the sunlight:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1040_zpsc0042451-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1040_zpsc0042451.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1041_zps7f468bf7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1041_zps7f468bf7.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1042_zpsfb792173-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1042_zpsfb792173.jpg.html)

Here the whole front bumper is completely wetsanded, and dripping wet from being rinsed. Almost looks like fresh clearcoat!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1044_zpsc97cc4ba-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1044_zpsc97cc4ba.jpg.html)

Same deal with the rear bumper:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1020_zpsf7262140-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1020_zpsf7262140.jpg.html)

As the rinse water begins to dry away, the matte wetsanded finish is revealed again. I am wondering to myself - "Will I see these faint sanding scratches under the next layer of clearcoat?" Fingers were crossed!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1045_zpsb6468821-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1045_zpsb6468821.jpg.html)

A few faint low spots are revealed, and at that point I was still wondering what defects might show through the next layer of clearcoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1049_zps363e1a95-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1049_zps363e1a95.jpg.html)

Front bumper wetsanded, washed, rinsed, and dried:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1051_zps5087a380-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1051_zps5087a380.jpg.html)

My boo-boos included a small area on the lower part of the rear bumper that got accidentally sanded through to base color, a spot near a sharp corner of the front bumper near the license plate section, and the tips of the bumpers, which probably accidentally rubbed against something while being rolled around on the carts in a tiny, crowded garage. All of these were touched up with a spritz of base with the airbrush before the next layer of clear:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1093_zps2e03c2f3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1093_zps2e03c2f3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1099_zps12900257-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1099_zps12900257.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_1100_zps268513ff-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1100_zps268513ff.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
07-13-2014, 03:53 AM
Your a perfectionist! Nice job, I wonder why your clear would gunk up in your gun.... It usually takes about 3 hrs for it to start gunking. The bumpers are usually the hardest to paint since you have so many contours and depth (specially the front). I've cleared over 1000 grit before and didn't show any scratches but not sure if yours will since you started it with 600. If you were able to get rid of all the 600 grit sand scratches then you should be good. Can't wait to see everything all installed

camroncamera
07-13-2014, 12:56 PM
Your a perfectionist! Nice job, I wonder why your clear would gunk up in your gun.... It usually takes about 3 hrs for it to start gunking. The bumpers are usually the hardest to paint since you have so many contours and depth (specially the front). I've cleared over 1000 grit before and didn't show any scratches but not sure if yours will since you started it with 600. If you were able to get rid of all the 600 grit sand scratches then you should be good. Can't wait to see everything all installed
Thanks r3v, I'm trying for a pro-quality job to the best of my abilities. I re-cleared a couple weeks ago, I just haven't been able to give a full update. The final coat of clear went over the sanding scratches just fine, but what you say about the bumper depth is true - it's just too darn hard for me to shoot a glossy, flowing coat onto the top, front, sides, and into all those compound depths without the overspray from one area messing up the work I just did in a an adjacent area. Other than that, I did okay. Simply SEEING my work in the spray booth is very challenging - I'm using as much light as I have but it's still not enough, my safety glasses will collect a fog of spray material every 2 or 3 minutes, and there is a thick cloud of vapor in the air that won't clear once the inlet filter becomes clogged. All of these challenges make inspecting and accurately judging my work as I shoot very difficult.

At any rate, I have been wetsanding the orange peel on the front bumper with foam sanding disks and hope to have a really nicely compounded and polished item to install in a couple days. The rear bumper that I bought from you will get the same treatment once the front bumper is finished, though with fewer depths and compound curves, it came out of the spray booth needing a little less wetsanding attention.

camroncamera
07-14-2014, 12:08 AM
I have the front bumper fully wetsanded 1000/2000/3000/4000 and ready for compounding. I ran out of sunlight before I could get it polished up, but I'm hoping I can get it done tomorrow.

camroncamera
07-14-2014, 02:28 AM
Allow me to back up a couple weeks... here I have my final coat of clear on the bumpers and mirrors over the previously wetsanded clearcoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1102_zpsee1fd652-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1102_zpsee1fd652.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1103_zps4de56cf9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1103_zps4de56cf9.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1107_zpse0877d0c-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1107_zpse0877d0c.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1108_zpsda3681c6-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1108_zpsda3681c6.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1109_zpsf7a4c1fe-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1109_zpsf7a4c1fe.jpg.html)

I got pretty good coverage but I did get some heavy orange peel in certain areas that needed correction:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1114_zps971a7d47-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1114_zps971a7d47.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1115_zps72332e36-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1115_zps72332e36.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1125_zps2966779f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1125_zps2966779f.jpg.html)

The right side of my front bumper got plenty of coverage, but the left side was a little thin and had heavy texture requiring correction:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1122_zps30a3c6b4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1122_zps30a3c6b4.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1120_zps7f22efa3-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1120_zps7f22efa3.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1133_zps84a5ff65-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1133_zps84a5ff65.jpg.html)

Wetsanding hell again! lol
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1140_zps5f4038d4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1140_zps5f4038d4.jpg.html)

Trying to bust down that heavy texture... it took several passes:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1143_zpsc5a83d7d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1143_zpsc5a83d7d.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1144_zps13999399-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1144_zps13999399.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1147_zpsccb7ceb9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1147_zpsccb7ceb9.jpg.html)

Up to 4000 grit with foam sanding pads:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1147_zpsccb7ceb9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1147_zpsccb7ceb9.jpg.html)

Compounding setup:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1149_zps6facc5dd-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1149_zps6facc5dd.jpg.html)

Getting the shine back, but some damn deep sanding scratches remain, same as what happened on my door trims. Also didn't go deep enough to remove the all the texture:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1154_zpsfe5e4119-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1154_zpsfe5e4119.jpg.html)

Another sanding pass:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1312_zpsab6d9d87-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1312_zpsab6d9d87.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1315_zps45cd85ba-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1315_zps45cd85ba.jpg.html)

Wet sanding pads, up to 4000 grit:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1319_zpseddc53f9-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1319_zpseddc53f9.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1321_zps03699746-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1321_zps03699746.jpg.html)

Compounded again, and STILL some deep sanding scratches, ack!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1325_zpsda7007c4-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1325_zpsda7007c4.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1327_zps1a1e033f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1327_zps1a1e033f.jpg.html)

At least I was satisfied that I could get the shine back. I set out to knock down the orange peel on the most of the rest of the bumper (doing my best to only sand down the areas that my polishing pad can reach):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1336_zps87d58960-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1336_zps87d58960.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1344_zps5e029262-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1344_zps5e029262.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1343_zps1b0f4bf8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1343_zps1b0f4bf8.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1345_zps8338da5f-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1345_zps8338da5f.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1348_zpsb71a0202-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1348_zpsb71a0202.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1350_zps9e303dc1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1350_zps9e303dc1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1357_zps70994701-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1357_zps70994701.jpg.html)

Still have to wetsand the rear bumper after I get the front bumper polished up! :shock:

camroncamera
07-16-2014, 04:02 PM
Front bumper polished up pretty nice:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1398_zps3569aa01-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1398_zps3569aa01.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1399_zps30eebddc-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1399_zps30eebddc.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1402_zps44b9527d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1402_zps44b9527d.jpg.html)

Still plagued by deep scratches that aren't getting properly sanded out, but one has to be pretty close to see:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1439_zps02927fca-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1439_zps02927fca.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1440_zpsaa8d3b04-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1440_zpsaa8d3b04.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1441_zps021a1bda-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1441_zps021a1bda.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1444_zps38ad591a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1444_zps38ad591a.jpg.html)

The license plate is simply a placeholder. The US plate doesn't fit the JDM bumper and a cheapie universal plate mounting bracket that I bought didn't really work, so I'll have to fab up something better:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1443_zpsd93c95e8-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1443_zpsd93c95e8.jpg.html)

The top side of the bumper still has a fair amount of orange peel, so I am going to give it another wetsanding pass to flatten it down:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1442_zpsd2302b53-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1442_zpsd2302b53.jpg.html)

Dead91silvia
07-16-2014, 05:04 PM
Looking good!

camroncamera
07-20-2014, 04:45 PM
Looking good!

Thanks Dead. I spent a few more hours wetsanding that top side orange peel and it polished up pretty nicely. It could use another pass of compounding, but it already looks way better.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1485_zps9124c60e-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1485_zps9124c60e.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1486_zpsc54450c2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1486_zpsc54450c2.jpg.html)

Stubborn low spots at 1500 grit papers:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1488_zpsdb89d094-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1488_zpsdb89d094.jpg.html)

Foamy sanding pads - 2000/3000/4000 grits
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1492_zps3e0c3be1-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1492_zps3e0c3be1.jpg.html)

Top edge sanded and ready for compounding:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1495_zps8f2d8436-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1495_zps8f2d8436.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1496_zps2a1de4aa-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1496_zps2a1de4aa.jpg.html)

All shined up and running out of daylight:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1499_zps9e2a944b-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1499_zps9e2a944b.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1500_zpsd276b1f7-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1500_zpsd276b1f7.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/07/IMG_1504_zps54053a51-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1504_zps54053a51.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
07-23-2014, 12:42 AM
Where's the install pics? Saw it over at lgt and its perfect!

camroncamera
07-23-2014, 01:47 AM
Where's the install pics? Saw it over at lgt and its perfect!
Haha thanks.. yeah the front bumper is now installed and it looks good. Just haven't had the chance to update here in my typical OCD boring detail.
On close inspection (12" or less) I still have some deep sanding scratches that need more attention, but at least the orange peel is mostly gone and it shines nicely. So much wetsanding has me worried that my clear is too thin for longevity and I wish I could give it another coat. I have been wetsanding the orange peel on the rear bumper the past two days and I accidentally burned through the clear in one small spot on the side, so I have pretty much decided to shoot one more coat of clear on it since it is not yet installed.

camroncamera
08-01-2014, 08:51 PM
The newly-installed GT-B front bumper has survived 500 miles or more on the road, including a weekend trip along the Oregon Coast- w00t!

Before install:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1536_zps5a61c984-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1536_zps5a61c984.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1509_zps0ea3a6e2-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1509_zps0ea3a6e2.jpg.html)

During install:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1619_zpsa480490a-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1619_zpsa480490a.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1622_zps73e488db-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1622_zps73e488db.jpg.html)

All buttoned up and road-ready:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1661_zps336f5821-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1661_zps336f5821.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1667_zpsa5c30007-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1667_zpsa5c30007.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_1664_zpsf6ffb401-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_1664_zpsf6ffb401.jpg.html)

A couple hundred miles down the road in North Bend, OR. In the distance the Coos Bay Bridge can be seen:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/08/IMG_2059_zps76eab5bb-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_2059_zps76eab5bb.jpg.html)

r3v_v3ng3
08-03-2014, 03:44 AM
:smt038 Your hard work paid off. Looks amazing

camroncamera
08-23-2014, 10:17 PM
Time for an update I suppose. The Limited front bumper has been holding up great, even went through the car wash once or twice already.

The rear bumper is another story. After installing the front bumper I was taking stock of the rear bumper situation. There was a strange defect in (or under) the clearcoat on one of the sides of the bumper near the wheel arch. I had thoroughly wetsanded all of the clearcoat orange peel away, but I was seeing a whitish speckled area that wouldn't come out no matter how much wetsanding I did. I wasn't sure what it was, but is seemed to be some sort of dust or contamination. I was fearful of sanding completely through the clear; the more I worked it, the more I felt it was getting quite thin. I decided to stop and accept the small defect before I did any irreversible damage. I was also concerned about the longevity of the clearcoat after sanding it so thin, so I decided to spray more clearcoat to make up for everything I had sanded away. I fully prepped and then spayed a nice, shiny coat of clear over the whole bumper, trying to adjust my technique according to what I has learned on my earlier spraying attempts. I then rolled the bumper out of the booth and then sprayed another nice shiny layer of clear on the door trim pieces (which I had also determined to be a little thin after their prior wetsanding/polishing). When the trims were fully coated, I moved them out of the booth and rolled the rear bumper back in again for another nice, thick coat of clear.

It was a few days before I could give the newly sprayed parts any close attention again. The door trims came out amazing, but I was upset to find that the small amount of white specked dust embedded in the fresh clear of the rear bumper was much worse after all that spraying. It was a whitish dust completely encased in the clear, not just on the surface. And it was ALL OVER the rear bumper. The parts were C-L-E-A-N CLEAN before I sprayed - wiped with distilled water/isopropyl, followed by a very, very thorough tack-cloth wipedown. After a lot of head scratching and grumbling I think I figured out the problem: Dry clearcoat dust was making its way out of the paint booth during shooting and settling on the first fresh coat of clear. Since the second coat of clear went on while I believed the first coat was still slightly tacky, I did not perform another tack cloth wipe (lest I ruin the fresh clear by putting isopropyl and fibers in the wet paint). Apparently the first coat was not tacky enough to absorb the clearcoat dust that had settled on the bumper while it was outside the booth during the spraying of the door trims.

So, the quick once-over wetsanding to flatten the orange peel that I was hoping to do has turned into a nightmare. I feel like I will have to remove virtually all of the fresh clear - without managing to burn through to the base coat in any spot - and then figure out if it still has enough clear on it to polish it up nice and shiny, or if I will have to shoot the darn thing yet again.

So. Very. Frustrated.

Dead91silvia
08-24-2014, 06:37 PM
Thats the world of paint, it's never perfect. The car is looking great though! Keep it up!

camroncamera
10-03-2014, 08:35 PM
I was upset to find that the small amount of white specked dust embedded in the fresh clear of the rear bumper was much worse after all that spraying. It was a whitish dust completely encased in the clear, not just on the surface. And it was ALL OVER the rear bumper. [snip]

So, the quick once-over wetsanding to flatten the orange peel that I was hoping to do has turned into a nightmare. I feel like I will have to remove virtually all of the fresh clear - without managing to burn through to the base coat in any spot - and then figure out if it still has enough clear on it to polish it up nice and shiny, or if I will have to shoot the darn thing yet again.

So. Very. Frustrated.

Thats the world of paint, it's never perfect. The car is looking great though! Keep it up!
Finally got back to this rear bumper and unfortunately the white speckles are laid too deeply in the clear to wetsand out. I tried, but burned through the clear in one area during the wetsanding process yesterday. The speckling is just too deep and covers almost all of the bumper. Unfortunately this one is going to be a do-over (base and clear) after sanding it down a bit more. I am concerned about total film build on this part because it is original paint, sanded down most of the way to factory primer, followed by rattlecan primer, followed by epoxy sealer, followed by two full coats of base, followed by several coats of clear, followed by wetsanding, followed by a very thick coat of clear, followed by wetsanding. My thought is to wetsand with ~400 grit as much of the clear off that I can without cutting through the base to the sealer, if possible, then cleaning, then re-spraying base and clear. I've used most of the custom mix of 54A Black Granite Pearl that I bought earlier this year, so I will probably have to get another batch mixed up (I hope they can match the color as well as they did last time). I did get some pictures of the speckles but haven't uploaded them off of the camera card yet.

meepers
10-06-2014, 07:00 PM
What brands are those?

This is what I use..

PPG DP Sealer. Keeps things from lifting and other crap.
PPG DBC base coat... Covers good
Omni High Solids clear. Seems to work pretty good for the price.


Wow, PPG DBC is Great solvent based color. I use DBC on all my Harley and Honda Customers bikes. Color match and cover is excellent. Omni clear is AWFUL. It is very amber in color, and has issues with not only messing up your color match, but having a failures within 3 years. I believe Omni only has a one year warranty if I remember correctly. USC is actually a pretty good product, and very DIY friendly.

Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 line is also really good and very reasonable.

meepers
10-06-2014, 07:13 PM
Car looks great. That is the one, if I have everything else done on my car wish.. GTB Limited front bumper.. Why oh why does SOA hate us. lol.

Painting and making things look good is easy. Painting to perfection, that can take years to master. I think you might also be having issues with laying your clear on too thick. It might not be particles that are trapped but solvent pop. If you lay your clear out too thick, and you are using too fast of a reducer, the top coat will cure before all the solvent has had time to evaporate, leaving little bubbles in the finished product. Very irritating, and always application error.

Talk to the sales person at your paint store. They should be able to tell you the proper application for your clear coat. Most modern finishes look great with two medium coats and one wet coat with sufficient time to flash (tack/dry) inbetween coats.

camroncamera
10-07-2014, 02:07 AM
Car looks great. That is the one, if I have everything else done on my car wish.. GTB Limited front bumper.. Why oh why does SOA hate us. lol.

Painting and making things look good is easy. Painting to perfection, that can take years to master. I think you might also be having issues with laying your clear on too thick. It might not be particles that are trapped but solvent pop. If you lay your clear out too thick, and you are using too fast of a reducer, the top coat will cure before all the solvent has had time to evaporate, leaving little bubbles in the finished product. Very irritating, and always application error.

Talk to the sales person at your paint store. They should be able to tell you the proper application for your clear coat. Most modern finishes look great with two medium coats and one wet coat with sufficient time to flash (tack/dry) inbetween coats.

Thank you, and I think there is something to what you are saying about the clear going on too thick and getting tiny bubbles caught in the curing clear. It seems like the crease between the bumper and lower lip accumulated a lot of clear and the bubbles there are sitting tight in that groove. Sanding alone is not getting me there, I think I will have to resort to a sharp file If I really need to shave away that extra thickness in that crease. And speaking of extra thickness, holy carp is it a chore to burn down all of that clear! 400 grit wetsanding by hand was just an exercise in futility. I moved to my Porter-Cable sander/polisher and damp-sanded with 400 and it barely seems any faster. The shorter days mean I run out of sunlight sooner, so I may have to move up to a coarser grit. That clearcoat is hardcore, but once I burn through on a corner, the base underneath just disappears and then I am looking at primer poking through.

Some closeups of the solvent pop and/or trapped dust - all of those white speckles is not the metallic of the base, it is definitely deep in the clearcoat:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_2564_zps950feb93-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_2564_zps950feb93.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_2567_zps70818b8d-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_2567_zps70818b8d.jpg.html)

Here is that crease with particularly heavy build and very prominent solvent pop:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/IMG_2570_zps25decfab-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/IMG_2570_zps25decfab.jpg.html)

meepers
10-07-2014, 02:24 AM
Yup. That's definately solvent pop. And it is usually more prevalent with "turbo" clears that are meant for production shops or panel paints for super fast dry time. But generally switching to a slower reducer and not doing super thick wet coats (better atomization) will cure the problem. And bumper covers are usually the worst due to all the curves and angles that allow the clear to pool. Don't get discouraged, I have had seriously good painters with years experience have the same problems.

camroncamera
08-30-2015, 02:02 AM
I can't believe how long it has been since I last worked on this project... so many other projects around the house the past year kept me from diving back in, but truth be told it is very discouraging having to redo so much with such limited work space, underpowered air supply, and a steep learning curve all at once. On the bright side, I have had some time to reflect on my mistakes and am nearly ready to make some more hehe. That JDM rear bumper, I really do want to finish that up before summer is gone.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/08/20150821_145233_zpsnolg4irj-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/20150821_145233_zpsnolg4irj.jpg.html)

I also think I'm going to redo the spats - they were the first thing I base/cleared and all the "fish eyes" required me to sand away all of the clear. I should have reshot the base, because the wetsanding lightened up the Black Granite Pearl into more of a "Purple Granite Pearl" haha. The clear went on fine after that, but the color is no longer a perfect match. I think I was running short on basecoat and I had to just go with it at the time. I have since had more basecoat mixed and plan to completely redo them. Also, wetsanding the clearcoat left some strange metallic flakes embedded in the clear on a couple of the spats. I'm pretty sure it was silica debris off the sandpaper I had been using and I have since discontinued using that brand (Mirka) and have switched to Korean sanding discs (Sun Might), which are much better for working wet.

Some of my items came out as well as I hoped (GT side skirts, JDM door trims, GT-B front bumper) so at least I'm not starting from scratch. The first thing that I'll need to get in order, however, is my nifty makeshift paint booth. The wall corners, which were mated by vecro, are coming apart due to the adhesive backing breaking down from all of the solvents in the spraying aerosols. Now there is so much dusty buildup that I'm not sure how to repair the velcro without starting over with fresh materials. I might have to staple the vercro back onto the plastic:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/08/20150829_225131_zps4c8dfzad-1.jpg (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/camroncamera/media/20150829_225131_zps4c8dfzad.jpg.html)