Thomistopheles
07-17-2013, 12:32 AM
Parts required:
2 piece USDM headlights and corners
Morimoto Mini H1 projectors
Mini gatling shrouds
Motocontrol harness [match your car's factory headlight plug]
HID ballasts and H1 bulbs
Headlight sealant
Kydex sheet
[b]Tools required:
Dremel
Reinforced cutting wheels
Screwdriver set
Oven [Heat gun if you're a scaredy cat. Just man up and use the oven, dammit.]
Oven thermometer [Never trust the built in temp display. Some ovens are not good at regulating low temps.]
Gloves
Epoxy or adhesive sealant
Paint
Bench testing bi-xenon solenoids
This is very important, you need to make sure the solenoid that flips the cutoff shield down for high beams is working flawlessly. Sometimes you might have a sticky plunger, or weak spring. Use a 12v power source to cycle it at LEAST 50 times. You will hear it click, but make sure you actually watch the shield move. If everything's working, great! Get to work you bums.
Splitting the headlights and corners
Preheat your oven to 210°F. Remove all bulbs, screws, and the four clips on each headlight housing. Place a flat baking sheet in the oven. I baked the headlight housings for 12 minutes and the corners for 7 minutes. To split the baked headlights, stick a butter knife or flat head screwdriver between the headlight lens and housing. Gently give it a twist to start opening the gap, and work your way around the lens. Once you have a gap, you can pull them apart by hand. To split the corners, you will have to pry them apart with the prying tool of your choice. The corner light lens slides out toward the front of the car, not straight off the lens. Keep the tabs in mind, and do not pry too hard or you will crack the lens.
Cutting and trimming the headlight housings
Remove the bulb shields. There's a small cover that clips on over the mounting screw for the shields. Pull out the wire headlight bulb holder as well. You will need to use your dremel with the cutting wheel to cut down the bulb holder on the housing. Here's a photo of what the bulb socket looked like after I cut it:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Lockingnut_zpsbcf095ed-1.jpg
You will need to cut a hole in the bottom of the housing to clear the bottom of the projector, and cut off the area the stock bulb shields screwed into.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Housinghole_zps781e1b48-1.jpg
You might need to trim the bottom of your shrouds to clear the housing. You're schmart peoples and I have no doubt that you can figure it out. I don't want to see any posts saying "Directions unclear, penis is stuck in ceiling fan. Please send help."
Painting
Strip the chrome from everything you intend to paint, either chemically or via sanding. I used Glad Press n Seal to mask off a chrome ring on the ends of my shrouds when I painted them, and did the same thing when I masked off the turn signal reflectors in the corner lights. Lightly press down just enough to seal, then trim with a razor.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Cornermask_zps96fa4e1f-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Cornerpainted_zps5e0fecaf-1.jpg
Mounting the projectors
These projectors mount really easy, you should only need to adjust rotation. Run the bi-xenon wires through the hole you cut at the bottom of the housing.
Projector reflector bowl | Small silicone washer | Headlight housing | Metal washer | Lock nut | Bulb holder
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Lockingnut_zpsbcf095ed-1.jpg
Don't crank down the locking nut. Make it tight, but so that you can still rotate the projector with a bit of force. Put your headlights on the car and adjust the rotation so the cutoff is level, and then lock down the nut good and tight so the projector is locked in place. The wiring harness is plug and play, I don't think I need to write a section for the wiring or HID install.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Projectorsmounted_zpse2e5c750-1.jpg
^You would have your shrouds mounted at this point. I didn't. Wanna fight about it?!
Seal those sexy sons of seabiscuits back up
Run your solenoid wires through the hole in the bottom of the housing, and use the kydex sheet and epoxy or adhesive sealant to seal up the giant hole you made. All done? Wunderbar! Preheat your oven to 210°F again. While that's warming up, take your headlight sealant and put it into the channels on your lights. Bake them the same amount of time as when you split them to soften the sealant. Press the lenses back into place, put all your screws and clips and thingamajigs back on. Now go take your new lights and aim them.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/DONE_zpsf63372f3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/DONECARFRONT1_zps24f1fea1-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/OUTPUT_zps48513103-1.jpg~original
As of writing this, I haven't been able to properly aim my lights since the adjustment screws are stuck... but they'll move soon enough. I'm going to pull the lights and really soak the hell out of the screws. Anyway, feel free to PM me with any questions. I didn't get many photos of the process since I zoned in on what I was doing at the time and forgot about taking photos along the way.
2 piece USDM headlights and corners
Morimoto Mini H1 projectors
Mini gatling shrouds
Motocontrol harness [match your car's factory headlight plug]
HID ballasts and H1 bulbs
Headlight sealant
Kydex sheet
[b]Tools required:
Dremel
Reinforced cutting wheels
Screwdriver set
Oven [Heat gun if you're a scaredy cat. Just man up and use the oven, dammit.]
Oven thermometer [Never trust the built in temp display. Some ovens are not good at regulating low temps.]
Gloves
Epoxy or adhesive sealant
Paint
Bench testing bi-xenon solenoids
This is very important, you need to make sure the solenoid that flips the cutoff shield down for high beams is working flawlessly. Sometimes you might have a sticky plunger, or weak spring. Use a 12v power source to cycle it at LEAST 50 times. You will hear it click, but make sure you actually watch the shield move. If everything's working, great! Get to work you bums.
Splitting the headlights and corners
Preheat your oven to 210°F. Remove all bulbs, screws, and the four clips on each headlight housing. Place a flat baking sheet in the oven. I baked the headlight housings for 12 minutes and the corners for 7 minutes. To split the baked headlights, stick a butter knife or flat head screwdriver between the headlight lens and housing. Gently give it a twist to start opening the gap, and work your way around the lens. Once you have a gap, you can pull them apart by hand. To split the corners, you will have to pry them apart with the prying tool of your choice. The corner light lens slides out toward the front of the car, not straight off the lens. Keep the tabs in mind, and do not pry too hard or you will crack the lens.
Cutting and trimming the headlight housings
Remove the bulb shields. There's a small cover that clips on over the mounting screw for the shields. Pull out the wire headlight bulb holder as well. You will need to use your dremel with the cutting wheel to cut down the bulb holder on the housing. Here's a photo of what the bulb socket looked like after I cut it:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Lockingnut_zpsbcf095ed-1.jpg
You will need to cut a hole in the bottom of the housing to clear the bottom of the projector, and cut off the area the stock bulb shields screwed into.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Housinghole_zps781e1b48-1.jpg
You might need to trim the bottom of your shrouds to clear the housing. You're schmart peoples and I have no doubt that you can figure it out. I don't want to see any posts saying "Directions unclear, penis is stuck in ceiling fan. Please send help."
Painting
Strip the chrome from everything you intend to paint, either chemically or via sanding. I used Glad Press n Seal to mask off a chrome ring on the ends of my shrouds when I painted them, and did the same thing when I masked off the turn signal reflectors in the corner lights. Lightly press down just enough to seal, then trim with a razor.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Cornermask_zps96fa4e1f-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Cornerpainted_zps5e0fecaf-1.jpg
Mounting the projectors
These projectors mount really easy, you should only need to adjust rotation. Run the bi-xenon wires through the hole you cut at the bottom of the housing.
Projector reflector bowl | Small silicone washer | Headlight housing | Metal washer | Lock nut | Bulb holder
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Lockingnut_zpsbcf095ed-1.jpg
Don't crank down the locking nut. Make it tight, but so that you can still rotate the projector with a bit of force. Put your headlights on the car and adjust the rotation so the cutoff is level, and then lock down the nut good and tight so the projector is locked in place. The wiring harness is plug and play, I don't think I need to write a section for the wiring or HID install.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/Projectorsmounted_zpse2e5c750-1.jpg
^You would have your shrouds mounted at this point. I didn't. Wanna fight about it?!
Seal those sexy sons of seabiscuits back up
Run your solenoid wires through the hole in the bottom of the housing, and use the kydex sheet and epoxy or adhesive sealant to seal up the giant hole you made. All done? Wunderbar! Preheat your oven to 210°F again. While that's warming up, take your headlight sealant and put it into the channels on your lights. Bake them the same amount of time as when you split them to soften the sealant. Press the lenses back into place, put all your screws and clips and thingamajigs back on. Now go take your new lights and aim them.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/DONE_zpsf63372f3-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/DONECARFRONT1_zps24f1fea1-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2013/07/OUTPUT_zps48513103-1.jpg~original
As of writing this, I haven't been able to properly aim my lights since the adjustment screws are stuck... but they'll move soon enough. I'm going to pull the lights and really soak the hell out of the screws. Anyway, feel free to PM me with any questions. I didn't get many photos of the process since I zoned in on what I was doing at the time and forgot about taking photos along the way.