Removing SEVERELY rusted bolts (rear lower links to knuckle)

[Soul Shinobi]

I've got some moderate experience removing some pretty stubborn bolts, but I have to admit I need some help here. I know the rear half of the bolt is free, because when I impact it I can see from the back side of the knuckle that the shaft rotating relative to the knuckle ever so slightly. It's the front half (the threaded side) that won't budge after all my effort.


I HAVE TRIED THE FOLLOWING ALREADY:
PB'laster a few times over the course of several weeks, and ~15min before starting[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Good impact gun on an okay air supply (nut removed with little effort)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Screwing a strut bolt to the front end of the bolt using a nut, and hitting it with a 4 lbs hand sledge (somewhat clever, see pic)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Number 3 while impacting the back end at the same time (no fooling around, moderately well coordinated hits)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Propane torch on the back part of the knuckle seizing the bolt, shortly followed by impacting (this broke the back half of the bolt free of the knuckle)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Number 5 heating the front part (no luck from here on)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Additionally I tried pulling hard on a wrench on the strut bolt I attached on the front side, while impacting the back (pretty clever)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Number 7 but switching ends, with the wrench on the back pushing it up with a jack, and the impact gun on the front (pictured; brilliant, but still no dice)[/*:m:43lh6bkr]
Number 8 but using cold (compressed air can upside-down) on the bolt instead of heat on the knuckle[/*:m:43lh6bkr]


And that's it, I'm out of ideas. Well, I have one more idea, number 8 but with a friend additionally hitting the knuckle with a hammer (this kind of perpendicular impact shock can help, it works wonders getting balljoints out). I could also get some MAP gas.

There is potentially an additional issue. Even though the back half of the bolt is free from the knuckle, it might still be seized in the bushing. The flex of the bushing might allow me to see the bolt is free from the knuckle but may be stopping it shortly after that. This gives me one more strange idea, to use that to my advantage -- I could also jack up the knuckle (compressing the suspension) because the angle of the control arms will have the bushings' twisting in a favorable direction.

EDIT: I'll add additional ideas and good suggestions here:
I could also try applying heat to the threaded end of the bolt itself, using a large washer to protect the bushing[/*:m:43lh6bkr]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/IMG_20140202_200913b-2.jpg
(Full Size Image) (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yAZAMzTOsY0p_css8cv47pTNal_ysJGtQQb7HULNU-o?feat=directlink)

[TheGreenGTBmachine]

Can't you just cut it and get a new bolt or would that require a new knuckle ?

[Soul Shinobi]

No, the lateral links but right up against the knuckle so I'd need to removed them to cut the bolt close to the knuckle, at which point I'd still have to worry about getting the front half of the bolt unstuck from the knuckle.

Example picture from a CLEANER car:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/02/DSCN7709-2.jpg

[Dead91silvia]

Well, with Red85celicas car, Heresmyminds old car from CT, we ripped all the old rusty crap off and replaced it with non rusty parts from here on the west coast. I'm sure that doesnt really help you though.

You will more then likely need to cut a few things and drive the left overs out and get new bolts and such. I'm going to be ripping the rear of my BD9 parts car apart pretty soon if you need some of the smaller parts.

[r3v_v3ng3]

The first pic trips me out because you have a nut on the threaded part of the long bolt.
Anyways i think if you unbolt your rear strut, you should be able to wiggle the bolt out (from your first pic). I've done 2 rear disc conversion (obs and forester) where that long bolt is usually rusted and stuck on the bushing part. Had to cut the bolt head on one of them since the nut wont even budge and knocked it out. The other side, the nut came out but the stud was rusted out by the bolt head and all it was doing was spinning with the bushing. So i unbolt the rear arm (guessing camber?), bring it down and you should be able to pull it as a rear arm/long bolt together. Hope that helps

[rougeben83]

I think its the metal sleeves in the bushings thats rusted, the advice from r3v is pretty sound. You'll need to hammer that bolt out at the minimum.

[prodriver1]

this happened to me when my rear lateral link broke offroading. it took me most of the afternoon to get it off (rusty MN car) i had to unbolt both sides of the lateral link as its pulling on the long bolt holding it in place, then i put the nut back on the long bolt and used it to hammer the shyt out, once the nut hits the knuckle you have to use a long bolt or screwdriver you have around your shop and keep hammering the long bolt out. first tho i squirted PB in the back the side the front under between all over the long bolt the knuckle the links everything and let it sit for a good long time, sorry but i forgot to mention i also used a wrench just under the bolt head (the open end) and used the wrench as a place to lay some hammer blows, i alternated between that and hammering the nut on the other side till it came free. i dinged the long bolt threads a little but i used a file and got them back.

[Dead91silvia]

Just know a lot more work is needed one way or the other and when it goes back together, put a little grease on the bolt where the bushings will be.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

SAME EXACT PROBLEM

Either have to melt the bushing out or get another link and cut the link

[LunchBox04V]

When I did the links on my BK we had to use an air chisel on the backside with an impact turning it out. I prepped it with AT transmission fluid. Still took the better part of an hour to get both out.

[dodik]

a large c-clamp with a large socket over the head so it has room to move. other than that cut it sawzall is helpfull as there less heat/spark then with a grinder as well as cleaner cut