Front Left Sway Bar Link keeps breaking

[L.Michael]

I've replaced it twice, both were of quality brands.

But just the other week i replaced it again, and not even a week later I was taking a normal corner and a loud SnaP!

WTH is going on with it? Is it the sway bar, suspension/alignment, or..?

[Odycee]

Make sure end link is straight up,not slanted.

[ScaryFatKidGT]

Somethings wrong, I think the swaybar must be installed wrong? I would say get some whiteline or kartboy solid endlinks but then something else might break

[L.Michael]

I'm wondering if the Sway Bar bushings aren't letting the thing slide properly, and causing a bunching situation.

I'm gonna be under the girl this weekend, and I'll have to have a good look at that. I'm pretty sick of replacing the stupid thing, and yeah, considering going with a solid metal solution to this. What do I look for? the same as the impreza's?

[Odycee]

sway bar and links are stock? torque bushing/clamp 20 ft/lbs? torque EL 25-30 ft/lbs?
If you upgrade your SW to 24mm, you better upgrade to Aluminum KB/WH links.

[Huffer]

You're snapping stock swaybar links? The semi-flexible plastic kind?

It sounds to me like the bar is installed incorrectly and not transferring load side-to-side.

[L.Michael]

If it's installed incorrectly, it's been like that since I bought it. What key thing will give it away that it's installed wrong?

[Huffer]

The mounting locations and the angle of the bar. And the snapping of links on normal driving.

[Odycee]

#12 is end link, #28 is nut but you must install a BIG WASHER between the nut and link otherwise the load thru the bolt, not distribute the load thru the link. And the bolt starts from inside toward the outside (wheel), link, washer, then nut. This BIG WASHER is very important for end link installation.

When you say "snapped", is the bushing fell out of end link or link broke in 1/2? Some broken end link pics would be helpful.

See pic.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/FrontSuspension_zps47eb2179-1.jpg

[L.Michael]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_2285_zps94d6b579-1.jpg
The first 2 I replaced had the break in the middle of the connecting shaft, straight shear.

This time the cap broke off the top connection, as you can see.

I don't know much about suspension yet, but what I saw was that everything looked in line, but when I gripped each end of the Swaybar, it was spongey soft flex to them. Not what I was expecting.

What you'll see in the background is new Moog Gusher BJ's & new Cardone Select Half Shafts.

[Odycee]

When I gripped end of my SB, there's no movement to the sides, hard like rock. Perhaps it's time to try an aluminum link, with the ones I made you only can break the bar, not the link.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140415_191040_zpsade28959-1.jpg

Guarantee you won't break these Fatboy.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/04/IMG_20140318_172357_zps28cbc352-1.jpg

[L.Michael]

In reality, I can just make my own out of scrap pieces rather than pay any more to the links. I'm guessing those links are in the area of $150?

[Huffer]

Can you post a link of the entire bar, end to end? I wonder if the bar itself is bent and now isn't transferring load. Getting new beefy links isn't going to fix the cause of the problem.

[Sloanaconda]

I was just thinking the same thing. looking at the angle of it where it joins the end link, it looks off...

[L.Michael]

I can, not sure if I can do it with my iphone and while it's standing on the ground or not thou..

[Wiscon_Mark]

In reality, I can just make my own out of scrap pieces rather than pay any more to the links. I'm guessing those links are in the area of $150?

Odycee has posted these before, but without details. I was under the impression that the aluminum is relatively cheap and you purchase separate bushings, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

You could buy the hardrace links for a lot less than $150. Hell, even KB endlinks are cheaper than that.

http://www.buyhardrace.com/categories/s ... gd_19.html (http://www.buyhardrace.com/categories/subaru-wrx-gc-gd_19.html)
http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php? ... 253&page=3 (http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16144&cat=253&page=3)

I personally went the cheap, easy route and got some Moog HD endlinks from rockauto. They're definitely tougher than the stock ones and really improved the effectiveness of my front bar:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1411041 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1448396&cc=1411041)

It doesn't look like Moog makes one of these for your fitment, so you'd have to do the mod outlined here: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=26369


-however-

Like Huffer suggested, get everything else checked out and make sure your bar is working correctly.

[Odycee]

Odycee has posted these before, but without details. I was under the impression that the aluminum is relatively cheap and you purchase separate bushings, but I'm not 100% sure on that.


Nothing needed for more details, I decided to use WL bushings because they are one piece design required pressed in vs. KB 2 halves but more more solid. Just made the rear ones after made few front one last few weeks using aluminium 6061. Made a few extra if anyone wants them, $85 for front and $95 for rear.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/Rearlinks_zps4de53192-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/roundlink_zps21efc786-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/squarelink_zps22fbbc01-1.jpg

One piece bushing design from WL, cost $40/pair and much stronger than KB 2 piece design but easier to installed.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/WLW0009_lg_zps7860d874png-1.jpg

[L.Michael]

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_2294_zps58391208-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/06/IMG_2295_zps34821b58-1.jpg

Still wondering if the Swaybar should be soft or rigid..

[Odycee]

Sway bar should be rigid and no movements at rest. Looks like the passenger side link has large slack which might contribute to your end link snapped. If you grab the bars and make it move, you need to run spacers otherwise sudden movement can snap your end link and they are only $5 at RSD.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Kartboy ... ar-Spacers (http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Kartboy-KB-017WLS-Whiteline-Front-Swaybar-Spacers)

[Odycee]

The distance from bushing passenger side to the sway bar curled downward is LONGER than driver side also. Looks like installation is not EVENLY SPACED from side to side. Driver side is really short.

[Huffer]

Now that I'm looking at it again, I think the drivers end of the bar itself is twisted to "meet" the link?

And I agree with Odycee - there is too much distance between the passenger side link and the end of the bar.
I'd do this:
1. Loosen the swaybar bushings, clean and grease them.
2. Remove the broken endlink, replace with a stock one.
3. Reinstall the sway bar but leave the bushings alone.
4. Once the swaybar is locked down to the links, then adjust the bushings until they sit in the brackets, then tighten down the brackets.

[Odycee]

Adding to Huffer's list.
Step 1.5 - Loosen sway bar clamps to align BOTH SIDES EVENLY.
Step 2.5 - Tighten clamps/bushings small increments BOTH sides with 25-30 ft/lbs.

[Sloanaconda]

^ I agree 100% with Huffer and Odycee! your driver side has something going on for sure it looks like the mount it self is also not straight and looking at your tire wear I would also think something is out with your suspension and alignment. just some food for thought.
Good luck and with the above advice you should be on the right track in no time!

[L.Michael]

Don't mind the tire wear. These are rotated from last years wear, which was corrected. Just getting everything in proper order before I replace these.

[L.Michael]

From the Service Manual..


B: INSPECTION
1) Check bushing for cracks, fatigue or damage.
2) Check stabilizer link for deformities, cracks, or damage,
and bushing for protrusions from the hole of stabilizer link
and its play.

C: INSTALLATION
1) To install, reverse the removal procedure.
NOTE:

Install bushing (on front crossmember side) while aligning
it with paint mark on stabilizer.

Ensure that bushing and stabilizer have the same identification
colors when installing.
2) Always tighten rubber bushing location when wheels
are in full contact with the ground and vehicle is at curb
weight condition.
Tightening torque:
Jack-up plate to crossmember:
18±5 N?m (1.8±0.5 kg-m, 13.0±3.6 ft-lb)
Stabilizer link to front transverse link:
29±5 N?m (3.0±0.5 kg-m, 21.7±3.6 ft-lb)
Stabilizer to crossmember:
25±4 N?m (2.5±0.4 kg-m, 18.1±2.9 ft-lb)

[Huffer]

Yep, you should try to install the bar/bushing when the car is level and flat. Someone might have installed your swaybar while it was in the air on a lift.

Usually running the car up on some ramps, and then jacking the rear up via the diff (and then putting jackstands on the rear jack points) is enough.

[L.Michael]

Would it be advised that after I take off the Swaybar, I jack its weight off the ramps and rest it back down before I re-install the Swaybar?

[Huffer]

You should always install the swaybar with the wheels loaded - as long as the car is sitting resting on a flat surface with full weight on the car, you'll be fine.