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View Full Version : Howto: 2004 USDM fuse relay box removal



thesavo
05-23-2014, 08:14 PM
Work in progress. I will tidy this up in a bit. I also have pics coming soon.

Tools

10mm socket. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
6 inch socket extension [/*:m:64elr1a3]
#2 Philips driver [/*:m:64elr1a3]
6.5 slotted driver [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Trim panel tools [/*:m:64elr1a3]

Note: Disconnect the ground cable from battery.
Note: If you could get your hands behind (fuse panel) to release connectors, good for you. You might not have to remove the ring and can save some steps.
Removal

Remove Lower dash. Remove the 3 fasteners, then grasp firmly to dislodge hook pawls (1).
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/dashEL00183_zpsa1449173png-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/dash-EL-00183_zpsa1449173.png.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove knee bolster[/*:m:64elr1a3]
disconnect relays from bolster [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Using a forked trim tool, remove harness fastener from the knee bolster. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Push out curise/fog/(baja_cargo) switch garnish
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/dash_switch_panel_zps53789125png-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/dash_switch_panel_zps53789125.png.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove connectors from switches [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove blue and white connectors from front of fuse box
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/Fuseandrelay_BlockCropped02_zps29a78b9a-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-Fuse_and_RelayBox/Fuse-and-relay_Block-Cropped-02_zps29a78b9a.jpg.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Loosen 10mm by hood release
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140523_192249_034_zpsbfe47ace-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-Fuse_and_RelayBox/IMG_20140523_192249_034_zpsbfe47ace.jpg.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Loosen SMJ bolt (big connector )
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/SMJwi0070701_zps620e12b0png-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/SMJ-wi-00707-01_zps620e12b0.png.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Loosen the two nuts above SMJ
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/SMJwi0070702_zpsbe4862b1png-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/SMJ-wi-00707-02_zpsbe4862b1.png.html)[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Loosen and remove SMJ Plug.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Pull SMJ plug through dash where switch garnish was.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove lower nut by the hood release, and the far right one.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove two upper nuts [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Pull fuse box out from threaded stud[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Same for relay panel below[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Disconnect rear connectors on the fuse panel.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove fuse box from metal ring[/*:m:64elr1a3]

Remove relay panel

While pressing down (lightly) on left end of relay panel, squeeze the heads poking up. I had trouble here. I had too use a lot of effort not to squeeze or push too hard. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Remove smj. Use a flat trim tool, "Lightly" pry up on one of the tabs, then the other one. It should now released.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Rest your finger on the face of the SMJ. Using a plastic trim tool Gently pry up on each corner of tabs to release SMJ from fuse ring. It is snapped in to place. Just releasing each tab will release the entire bit.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/SMJFuseRing_zpsaa95295d-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/SMJ-FuseRing_zpsaa95295d.jpg.html)
[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Squeeze white plastic square to the release last relay.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/IMG_20140523_190041_505_zpsd965aacb-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Legacy_G3-Diagrams/2004-GloveBox_and_trim/IMG_20140523_190041_505_zpsd965aacb.jpg.html)

To Reinstall Fuse and Relay box.

Re install ring[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Align SMJ into spot on ring. Push straight in until it clicks. Ensure that it is secure. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Ensure that the harness tie down and relay are reinstated into ring[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Install top two nuts. Just twist on one or two threads. This will allow for some wiggle roome. Don't bother aligning bottom onto stud[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Install lower nut. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
I feel that it's forked for a reason. Now lift ring on to lower stud[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Tighten nuts[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Align fuse panel onto place. I had 5 connectors to re connect. Don't forget yours, as this post (http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=28728) will attest. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Ensure that the top and bottom tabs are aligned. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Push straight in to set. Install far right nut. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Push SMJ back in dash. This is required to give slack reconnect last two connectors.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Reconnect front two connectors. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Click relay center into place[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Align smj into place. Push in lightly until click. Tighten bolt. [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Re attached relays to knee bolster [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Re attach knee bolster[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Reconnect battery negative terminal. Attempt to start.[/*:m:64elr1a3]
Reattach lower dash [/*:m:64elr1a3]
Reconnect and install switch garish [/*:m:64elr1a3]
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rkrenicki
05-24-2014, 06:27 PM
I must ask.. why would you need to remove the fuse box, unless you were replacing it?

But even then.. That does not seem to me to be such a common repair..

I guess I just questioning the need for a howto on this subject.

thesavo
05-24-2014, 11:52 PM
I agree that some howto's aren't worth writing, especially if they've already been writen. You never know when you need to repair a connector or get to a short behind it.

I agree it isn't at a common repair. I wanted to know who made it and the connectors for it. It's some company with an F in a circle and a boomerang in a circle.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/FLocation_zps62d0449c-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Connectors/Unknown/F-Location_zps62d0449c.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/FLocation02_zps7a204df1-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Connectors/Unknown/F-Location-02_zps7a204df1.jpg.html)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/Flogo_zps8aa4aea3-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Connectors/Unknown/F-logo_zps8aa4aea3.jpg.html) or is LL https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/LLlogo_zps7fcc18b9-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Connectors/Unknown/LL-logo_zps7fcc18b9.jpg.html)

I also wanted to wire in some relays into the relay center beneath it. I figured the exercise would benefit the community. I learned that there are 5 connectors in the back. Along with 2 relays. Sometimes a howto is better served as a confidence builder than a set of directions.


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rkrenicki
05-25-2014, 10:05 AM
Gotcha. That "boomerang" in a circle is actually the Japanese character ? which is pronounced "Fu". It is the first sound of Fuji Heavy Industries, the parent company of Subaru. You will see that logo on just about every part of the car, next to whatever company actually made said part. It simply means that it was made for or by Subaru.

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/fuji_heavy_industries_zps96bd8a49.jpg

thesavo
05-25-2014, 11:11 AM
So this is the logomark of Fuji Heavy Industries? Neat, thanks for the info. Now I just need to figure out who this "encircled 'F' " is. It's on a number of connectors that I cannot Identify. They're not even in the Toyota Connector repair guide.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/05/FhiLogo_zpsd619da5b-1.jpg (http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thesavo/media/Connectors/Unknown/Fhi-Logo_zpsd619da5b.jpg.html)