View Full Version : Sticky Clutch

07-12-2006, 02:53 PM
I have searched around about sticky clutches and people have problems of the clutch sticking and revving at high rpms and a good stink

I have had a stink when coming out of first gear to quickly

But my main problem is the clutch sticks to the floor to the point where I have to lift it back up myself

My clutch has never stuck to have the rpms stick anywhere

The whole time I press down on the clutch it goes in like butter and it is not till the last inch or two that the clutch actually engages

Some days it’s completely fine and others it’s the clutch from hell

I’ve read about people saying its CDV or the master cylinder

I have bleed the clutch line and got some air to come out but the clutch was good for a day and after that its back to being hell

So what is a for sure cure with out getting a new clutch cuz that is a pain

07-12-2006, 05:16 PM
Sounds like the master cylinder is naffed...

07-12-2006, 08:13 PM
i have a similar problem.every once in a while my clutch pedal wont return past half way untill i lift it up with my foot.is there maybe some kinda return spring that is worn , or maybe the clutch it self ?

07-12-2006, 09:10 PM
If it is ok one day and bad the next it seems hard to conclude that it would be a hydraulic issue as that kind of problem would likely be there all the time, whether it be a result of air in the system, low fluid or faulty master/slave cylinders.

Here's another theorey:

Your release bearing (aka throw out bearing) has caused some wear on the input shaft it rides on.

When you release the clutch pedal, under normal circumstances, the 'finger' springs on the pressure plate would push the release bearing back and allow the frictional surface of the clutch disc to make contact with the flywheel creating the mechanical connection between engine and transmission.

If the release bearing hangs up on the input shaft due to the excessive tolerances (from the wearing) and gets 'kinked' it could lock up when the diaphram of springs on the pressure plate push the release bearing back. Supposedly, this is one reason for the common Subaru clutch shudder, that some of us are unfortunate enough to experience.

The solution would be installing a PDM clutch sleeve.

What doesn't flow so well with this theory is that you pull up on the clutch pedal to make it better. Given the above theory it would make more sense to push back down on the clutch pedal in hopes the release bearing gets realigned and give it another chance to allow the clutch to engage.

What I'm not clear on is when the pedal sticks to the floor does the clutch engage or remain disengaged?

Might be easier to start cheap and replace the slave cylinder and hydraulic line which I've seen dirt cheap on ebay. Not sure how much the master cylinder cost is.

If you really want to determine whether this problem is the clutch or the hydraulics next time it happens don't fix it, as in leave the pedal on the floor. Remove the slave cylinder (only 2 bolts, very easy). If the release fork doesn't move when you remove the slave cylinder the problem does not reside in the clutch hydraulics but rather in the mechanical parts of the clutch. Granted, to do this you would need to replicate the problem some place where you can do some wrenching work.

07-12-2006, 09:40 PM
replace the master cylinder. its fairly easy to replace, the cost will be around $100. i did this last year and haven't had the pedal stick to the floor since. still got other problems but not that.

07-12-2006, 10:11 PM
When the clutch starts sticking it starts of only engaging half way then after that it will only engage the last 2 inches of pushing the clutch to the floor

If I don’t pull the clutch back up it will disengages but the pedal stays the 2 inches from the floor and then I push it in the 2 inches to engage it and shift gears

Then if I go in the store or sometimes while even driving it, it goes back to norm for one shift or 2 and then back to sticking

07-14-2006, 05:23 PM
It's probably the hydraulics. But it is SO easy to be sure by just pulling the slave cylinder off next time the pedal sticks to the floor. If the clutch fork moves towards the front of the car (clutch engaged position) then the problem is definetly the hydraulics... slave, master or line between who knows, though I'd agree and say probably the master OR some horrible leak/air in the system.

07-15-2006, 10:15 AM
It definitely sounds like you have some hydraulic issues, if bleeding the system helps for a little while but then it gets worse again you'll need a new master cylinder, slave or both.

While you're in there I'd recommend throwing in a stainless clutch line too.