nepbug
10-25-2014, 11:33 PM
Camshaft Pulley Torqueing - No Special Tools
Problem:
Need to torque EJ251 SOHC camshaft pulleys to 58 ft-lb after installing new/rebuilt heads, but they spin.
Solutions:
Subaru special tools (2 of them, one for each pulley)[/*:m:202ublxx]
Company 23 Subaru-specific tools (2 of them, one for each pulley; Company 23 Subaru Tools (http://www.company23.com/subaru))[/*:m:202ublxx]
Use the old timing belt as described below at no additional cost.[/*:m:202ublxx]
No-Cost Procedure:
Set the crankshaft so that all pistons are mid-stroke. This is done by aligning the notch on the crank sprocket with the timing mark at the 12 o'clock position (see picture below). This should have already been done before you slapped your new heads on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/q9vIICIl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Route old timing belt over left side (driver side) pulley, over the water pump, below the crankshaft sprocket and around the right side (passenger side) pulley as shown in the picture below.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/GrebOmNl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Using a pair of pliers, try to pinch the belt together around the left camshaft pulley so that it is tight and you have a good amount of wrap around the pulley.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/GU2QUqal-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Put your torque wrench (set at 58 ft-lbs) and 17mm socket on the pulley bolt. While still holding the pliers begin tightening with your torque wrench. the slack will be taken up as you tighten and eventually it will be tight and all the belt teeth will lock into each other. Now you can reach your torque needed, no special tools required.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/jRX11Zol-1.jpg
And a slightly different angle
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/1Dp0GfAl-1.jpg
In fact, the teeth of the belt lock in so well that you can remove the pliers and still be able to torque it without the pulleys spinning. to release it just grab the belt and separate it, it doesn't take much force.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/pX8GL62l-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Now, repeat for the other side.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/muoFHwYl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
A few notes:
You likely can do something very similar on DOHC engines as well, I just haven't had to yet myself so I cannot confirm 100% what the routing would be to achieve this.[/*:m:202ublxx]
When you are tightening up the belt it is very likely the pulley on the other side will spin, thus moving your valves, so it is very important to confirm your pistons are set up mid-stroke as shown in step 1.[/*:m:202ublxx]
I personally wouldn't recommend using your new belt to do this because the pliers might bite into it and shorten the life of it. I didn't see any marks left on the belt after I did this, but better safe than sorry.[/*:m:202ublxx]
Problem:
Need to torque EJ251 SOHC camshaft pulleys to 58 ft-lb after installing new/rebuilt heads, but they spin.
Solutions:
Subaru special tools (2 of them, one for each pulley)[/*:m:202ublxx]
Company 23 Subaru-specific tools (2 of them, one for each pulley; Company 23 Subaru Tools (http://www.company23.com/subaru))[/*:m:202ublxx]
Use the old timing belt as described below at no additional cost.[/*:m:202ublxx]
No-Cost Procedure:
Set the crankshaft so that all pistons are mid-stroke. This is done by aligning the notch on the crank sprocket with the timing mark at the 12 o'clock position (see picture below). This should have already been done before you slapped your new heads on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/q9vIICIl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Route old timing belt over left side (driver side) pulley, over the water pump, below the crankshaft sprocket and around the right side (passenger side) pulley as shown in the picture below.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/GrebOmNl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Using a pair of pliers, try to pinch the belt together around the left camshaft pulley so that it is tight and you have a good amount of wrap around the pulley.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/GU2QUqal-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Put your torque wrench (set at 58 ft-lbs) and 17mm socket on the pulley bolt. While still holding the pliers begin tightening with your torque wrench. the slack will be taken up as you tighten and eventually it will be tight and all the belt teeth will lock into each other. Now you can reach your torque needed, no special tools required.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/jRX11Zol-1.jpg
And a slightly different angle
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/1Dp0GfAl-1.jpg
In fact, the teeth of the belt lock in so well that you can remove the pliers and still be able to torque it without the pulleys spinning. to release it just grab the belt and separate it, it doesn't take much force.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/pX8GL62l-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
Now, repeat for the other side.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2014/10/muoFHwYl-1.jpg[/*:m:202ublxx]
A few notes:
You likely can do something very similar on DOHC engines as well, I just haven't had to yet myself so I cannot confirm 100% what the routing would be to achieve this.[/*:m:202ublxx]
When you are tightening up the belt it is very likely the pulley on the other side will spin, thus moving your valves, so it is very important to confirm your pistons are set up mid-stroke as shown in step 1.[/*:m:202ublxx]
I personally wouldn't recommend using your new belt to do this because the pliers might bite into it and shorten the life of it. I didn't see any marks left on the belt after I did this, but better safe than sorry.[/*:m:202ublxx]