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View Full Version : Forester Yamazaki's '04 FXT / 28Mar16 upgrade!



Yamazaki
01-01-2015, 04:11 PM
So I finally took pictures of the Forester. I only have one picture from before the installation of the "tech package" I did:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4235-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4235.jpg.html)

Here are all the pics taken today:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4271-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/My%20Impreza%20STi/DSCF4271.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4272-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4272.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4273-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4273.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4285-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4285.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4289-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4289.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4276-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4276.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4277-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4277.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4275-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4275.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4282-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4282.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4286-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4286.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4288-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4288.jpg.html)

Upgrades I did - Rearview camera, integrated handsfree phone, GPS navigation, Nissan Maxima rearview mirror w/Homelink:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4274-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4274.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4287-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4287.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4280-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4280.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4284-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4284.jpg.html)

Some problems areas remain:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4278-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4278.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4279-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4279.jpg.html) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/th_DSCF4283-1.jpg (http://s426.photobucket.com/user/yamazakisubaru/media/cars/Forester%20XT/DSCF4283.jpg.html)

Modifications:

Exterior
Removed roof rack

Interior
COBB shift knob (previous owner installed)
Kartboy front/rear shifter bushings
Gentex 313 rearview mirror w/Homelink from Nissan Maxima
Forester STi HVAC surround w/cupholder and Celsius temp controls
LED cabin lights
Husky floor liners

Audio/Video
Kenwood DNX571HD
Clarion CC510 rear camera
Clarion CAU001 License plate frame camera mount

Engine
Generic grounding kit
VF48
Grimmspeed catless uppipe w/egt delete
GD STI TMIC
Stainless steel braided clutch line

Suspension
Forester STI rear aluminum lateral links
Forester STI aluminum front control arms

Brakes
Factory

Exhaust
Factory

Parts have but not installed (yet):
SBC iD electronic boost controller
tint

amgarrety
01-01-2015, 04:28 PM
Beautiful! Any plans to do exterior mods to it? I know there are some nice bumpers out there for this model forester.

thenines'
01-01-2015, 05:54 PM
How I hate to waste my time removing those cameras!

Yamazaki
01-02-2015, 02:31 PM
How I hate to waste my time removing those cameras!Why would you remove them?
Beautiful! Any plans to do exterior mods to it? I know there are some nice bumpers out there for this model forester. No. I owe too much money to do anything other than basic maintenance at this point. However, I did change the window gussets today. It was so bad that it would whistle even when the car was parked and there was a breeze. Here's a side-by-side of the old and new:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/01/DSCF4293-1.jpg

amgarrety
01-02-2015, 02:35 PM
:shock:

Dead91silvia
01-02-2015, 03:23 PM
Damn! Those things are worn out!

thenines'
01-02-2015, 09:27 PM
How I hate to waste my time removing those cameras!Why would you remove them?
Can't cover up anything on your plate in MA.-that's what I do for a living-state inspections :roll:

Yamazaki
01-24-2015, 10:55 PM
I was looking at a twin scroll setup for the Forester (manifold, uppipe, turbo, wastegate, downpipe).... only the complete lack of funds kept me from making the purchase. Keeping the Forester stock is going to be extremely difficult once the Impreza and S401 are gone...

For now, though, I think the sparkplugs need changing.

xoSubieLegacyxo
02-01-2015, 11:42 PM
Sweet! Another turbo'ed Subaru at Yamazakis house. :D

Yamazaki
02-21-2015, 09:21 AM
So what should I be checking if I smell fuel in the cabin on cold days? The fuel smell is getting pretty strong....

98legwag
02-21-2015, 09:39 AM
From what I have read on this it could be the hose clamps on the fuel lines, o-rings on the injectors, or a fuel line under the intake manifold that is leaking.

Yamazaki
02-21-2015, 03:02 PM
Wouldn't the smell be all the time then? The smell is only when the engine is cold.

rkrenicki
02-21-2015, 08:44 PM
I had that problem only when cold on my 98 Forester too.. it was the rubber fuel line from the filter to the rails.

I found this site about the issue. It is for the Outback, but they are all pretty much the same place. http://www.bazoomer.com/fuelline/fuelline.html

Yamazaki
02-24-2015, 03:58 PM
So the check engine light came on..... P0011. Uh oh. I measured the oil level and it didn't have any! Fortunately I had a bunch of oil around (because the Impreza likes to drink it like cheap liquor) and I filled the Forester back up. It seems fine now, but I'm keeping an eye on it....

rkrenicki
02-24-2015, 05:21 PM
There is a tech tip for that. It points to either the banjo bolt filter screen, or the turbo oil seals.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/tech-tip-subaru-dtc-p0011-excess-smoke-tail-pipe-104738/

Yamazaki
03-10-2015, 09:04 AM
So I'm pretty sure the turbo is done. It threw the P0011 code again and now the turbo has a very loud, weird sounding whine if I try to accelerate even a little bit. The car moves, but has very little power. I need to replace both banjo bolt and turbo if my assessment is correct.

Maybe now I can consider that twin-scroll setup I was looking at before...

98legwag
03-10-2015, 02:35 PM
I take it the stock turbo from the Impreza STI is long gone?

Yamazaki
03-12-2015, 06:45 AM
Yeah, that was gone almost 9 years ago.
I found that I can get VF36/7/8 for VERY cheap through family connection, but the associated piping I would also need is prohibitively expensive. I even found a VF41 from a Forester STI, but I may just settle for a VF48. I think I'll need upgraded injectors and a tune (i.e: COBB AP), but what else will I need to be aware of? Is it a direct fit? Are there better options? I'm not trying to copy my Impreza. Nobody needs that much power, least of all my wife, who is the primary driver.
Ideas anybody?

86bratman
03-13-2015, 08:01 AM
As far as everything I've read says you can get by with just a tune to run the vf39/43/48 on the fxt, it has the same yellow injectors as the 04-06 sti. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a bigger tmic to go with it though.

Yamazaki
03-13-2015, 09:44 PM
Hmm, looking at the cost of an accessport as well as a tune, I think I'll just get another VF40 for now. After I finally sell the Impreza, I can give the Forester some "enhancements", but for now I have to just get it running.

86bratman
03-13-2015, 10:10 PM
You could always go open source, I'm sure there are some tunes available on openecu.org for your application.

I thought the FXT came with a td04?

Dead91silvia
03-13-2015, 11:34 PM
If that turbo is making noise, I hope you have stopped driving it... right? I'm dealing with a blown turbo on a customers 05 XT OB right now and that SOB damn near exploded.

Yamazaki
03-14-2015, 09:15 AM
You could always go open source, I'm sure there are some tunes available on openecu.org for your application. I thought the FXT came with a td04? What I read was the EJ205 came with TD04 and EJ255 came with VF40. I have an EJ255. Of course, it's info from Nasioc, so the information may be suspect. I'll definitely find out tomorrow when I remove the turbo.


If that turbo is making noise, I hope you have stopped driving it... right? I'm dealing with a blown turbo on a customers 05 XT OB right now and that SOB damn near exploded.
I'm only moving it from one parking spot to another during my usual "musical cars" routine in the garage/driveway. I know better than to take it out on the road.

Yamazaki
03-14-2015, 09:19 AM
I've decided on a VF48, Walbro pump, and 04-07 STI TMIC. The COBB AP and tune will come out of my personal funds, and not the funds allocated for maintenance, because I still need to spend $2K for service on the Merc.

98legwag
03-14-2015, 09:43 AM
That should make a nice little upgrade.

chevyman1968
03-14-2015, 10:01 AM
Since it's an 04 you have a ej257 with a catted up pipe, td-04 turbo and a Forester Ecu. It's exactly the same as an 04 STi ej257 except for the differences I just mentioned. Same wiring harness and what not. From what I know you can swap the turbo and the Ecu is plug and play for the Ecu for the STi one and then you are running your 300chp. It's cheaper than tuning it. At PMP you can get an STi Ecu for 150 bucks and an STi turbo for about the same. Then just run an aftermarket uppipe and your good to go.


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Yamazaki
03-15-2015, 07:26 PM
Since it's an 04 you have a ej257 with a catted up pipe, td-04 turbo and a Forester Ecu. It's exactly the same as an 04 STi ej257 except for the differences I just mentioned.
You're half right. I already knew it isn't an EJ257. It says EJ255BWTBB on the ID plate. But after personally checking the turbo, it is a TD04.
So now I have to figure out how different the connections are to a TD04 and a VF-series turbo. I won't make a move until I have visual verification on how easily swappable they are.

[EDIT: nevermind. I just found what I was looking for. Looks like I'm getting a VF48.]

chevyman1968
03-15-2015, 07:39 PM
Can you post a pic of your engine bay?


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Yamazaki
03-15-2015, 07:45 PM
Can you post a pic of your engine bay?
I will do this tomorrow if I have time. It is too dark now to take any pictures of worth.

Yamazaki
03-17-2015, 11:51 AM
I have been SUPER busy (friends/family visiting, as well as remodeling our guest bathroom before the MD SL-i meet), so I haven't taken any pictures of the engine bay.

However, I did order a Grimmspeed ceramic coated uppipe, a VF48, and a Deascheworks DW200 fuel pump. COBB AP is next.

rkrenicki
03-17-2015, 12:00 PM
Excuse my turbo noobiness, but is a VF48 a drop-in replacement for the TD04, or do you have to do some modification to make it work?

I guess what I am getting at is, can you get the car back up and going before the AccessPort shows up?

Yamazaki
03-17-2015, 12:20 PM
I am going off of the pictures posted here:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/577129-post36.html

Everything bolts/plugs up in the same places....

A few other forums and places say that it should be a direct swap as well, so I am not too concerned.

chevyman1968
03-18-2015, 11:16 AM
It depends again what engine is in the car.

This is an ej255.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/0c08562c4d00ad3444d1519e814613b3-1.jpg

This is an ej257 style engine bay.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/0bf05fd439c5030d7eddcca26122f9ef-1.jpg

The differences between the turbo mounting between both is big. Nether style with fit on the other manifold setup. Everything would have to be swapped to make one or the other work. So if you have a td-04 that bolts to the tmic then a vf48 won't work.


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Yamazaki
03-18-2015, 12:55 PM
It depends again what engine is in the car.

This is an ej255.

This is an ej257 style engine bay.

I understand what you are saying, but the engine layout doesn't change the fact that the Forester (XT and Japanese STI), the Baja (turbo), and the S402 all have EJ255s, despite their layout being similar to the EJ257 my Impreza STI has. Hell, the S402 has an EJ255 with a twinscroll, so I know that turbo won't fit on the other EJ255s.
I figure there are different types of EJ255s, just like there are different EZ30Ds, and even different EJ257s (look up the GVF/GRF STI A-line). The EJ255 in my Forester just happens to be the same layout as the engine in picture #2 you posted.

I'm just arguing the designations because that's all I know. When it comes down to the nitty-gritty of the mechanical applications, the designations are more or less meaningless. Being on this forum has taught me that much. There are so many people here that actually know their way around the engine bay, but get their "alphabet soup" mixed up or confused. I know all the designations and numbers because I have all the books and have taken pictures of the ID plates in person (for the Japanese models too). So believe me if I say what a designation is (as long as I verify it - my memory kind of sucks), because I have the information from Subaru itself. However, I am barely able to point out what most of the major parts of an engine bay are, but not much past that. So I won't ever try to say what does/doesn't work/fit together. That's what I rely on you mechanical guys for!

chevyman1968
03-18-2015, 01:01 PM
Haha got ya man. Yeah I am not arguing whether or not it's an ej255 or ej257 at this point just don't want you to buy parts that are not going to work on your setup. I do know the STi Ecu is interchangeable with your car though. 04 FXT is my next car unless a Legacy comes up for a decent price.


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Yamazaki
03-18-2015, 03:56 PM
That's cool about the ECU. What years STI ECUs work like that? Will the immobilizer cause any issues? I'd swap the ECU from my Impreza to the Forester to check it out if it weren't so heavily tuned....

86bratman
03-18-2015, 06:47 PM
The top picture posted there is legacy gt and 08-14 wrx style, the ej255 in the Baja turbo, FXT, and 06/07 wrx is setup very much the same as the traditional ej205/ej257 in regards to the turbo and intercooler fitment.

Yamazaki
03-18-2015, 08:47 PM
The top picture posted there is legacy gt and 08-14 wrx style, the ej255 in the Baja turbo, FXT, and 06/07 wrx is setup very much the same as the traditional ej205/ej257 in regards to the turbo and intercooler fitment.

Yeah, that's basically what I just said a couple posts back. Although I said the S402 engine bay is also like that and after I looked at the pictures again, it turned out that I was wrong. The big intercooler threw me off.

86bratman
03-18-2015, 10:13 PM
Sorry I had typed up that post and had to put my phone down for a while, I forgot to refresh the page before posting.

Yamazaki
03-19-2015, 06:20 PM
Anybody know the answers to these questions...?

That's cool about the ECU. What years STI ECUs work like that? Will the immobilizer cause any issues? I'd swap the ECU from my Impreza to the Forester to check it out if it weren't so heavily tuned....

98legwag
03-19-2015, 07:13 PM
I believe it would be an 04 STI ecu that would work. I think they didn't have the immobilizer. But I am not 100% sure on that.

Dead91silvia
03-20-2015, 01:18 PM
That's cool about the ECU. What years STI ECUs work like that? Will the immobilizer cause any issues? I'd swap the ECU from my Impreza to the Forester to check it out if it weren't so heavily tuned....

2004 was the only year without the immobilizer. If you go to 05-up, you will also need a few other tid bits, but I'm not sure what all you would need.

Yamazaki
03-23-2015, 05:06 PM
Even though winter is over, it was Christmas today!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/03/DSCF4302-1.jpg

Christmas part 1 anyway. I am still waiting for the turbo and I have to order the ECU. I'm having trouble finding one for what I am willing to pay.

Dead91silvia
03-24-2015, 03:49 AM
Why do you need an ECU?

dodik
03-24-2015, 11:30 AM
and which ECU are you exactly looking for?

Yamazaki
03-24-2015, 11:43 AM
Why do you need an ECU?

and which ECU are you exactly looking for?To respond to these two questions, I will just repost what has been discussed in this thread so far:


Since it's an 04 you have a ej257 with a catted up pipe, td-04 turbo and a Forester Ecu. It's exactly the same as an 04 STi ej257 except for the differences I just mentioned. Same wiring harness and what not. From what I know you can swap the turbo and the Ecu is plug and play for the Ecu for the STi one and then you are running your 300chp. It's cheaper than tuning it. At PMP you can get an STi Ecu for 150 bucks and an STi turbo for about the same. Then just run an aftermarket uppipe and your good to go.

That's cool about the ECU. What years STI ECUs work like that? Will the immobilizer cause any issues? I'd swap the ECU from my Impreza to the Forester to check it out if it weren't so heavily tuned....

I believe it would be an 04 STI ecu that would work. I think they didn't have the immobilizer. But I am not 100% sure on that.

2004 was the only year without the immobilizer. If you go to 05-up, you will also need a few other tid bits, but I'm not sure what all you would need.
Reading over on SubaruForester.org, I see some of the same discussions. Therefore, it would be easier and MUCH cheaper to swap ECUs than get an Access Port and tune it. After all, this is for my wife. She's not exactly a street racer. She thought the H6 was fast...:roll:

Dead91silvia
03-24-2015, 11:48 AM
Ahh... ok, I see. You just want it for the factory STI tune rather then actually getting the stock one tuned, right?

chevyman1968
03-24-2015, 11:48 AM
Have you tried PMP auto group? Sorry I haven't jumped in in awhile. The '05 up FXTs are tuned off of a LGT style Ecu. As far as I know only an '04 STi Ecu with work because of the i mobilizers.


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chevyman1968
03-24-2015, 11:50 AM
It is cheaper. 150 versus buy an Accessport for 300-600 depend on if you get it used and another 300ish to have the car protuned.


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Yamazaki
03-24-2015, 09:05 PM
I checked PMP auto group, but no dice. The only ones I can find are on ebay for $350. No thanks.

Yamazaki
03-26-2015, 04:44 PM
I might be a little upset right now.....

The turbo came today so I set out taking everything apart.

The screen in the banjo bolt is still intact and fine, the turbo has no shaft play and other than some old oil buildup seems fine, and there was a torn hose going to the T-section above the turbo. If that stupid little hose was the reason I just dumped a lot of money into new parts I'm going to be sad.

On top of that, I somehow broke my 3-ton Craftsman jack.:scratch: NO idea how that happened...

Yamazaki
03-26-2015, 08:53 PM
So I've been looking online regarding the loss of the EGT sensor in my cat-less uppipe and what to do about it. It seems like I have to get an Access Port after all so I can have it tuned out. Does anybody know if the STI ECU does the same thing? After all, the STI has a cat-less uppipe too, right? I feel like I am not understanding something correctly, but I don't know what it is.

I also found out that the hose that was broken and separated was a vacuum line. So I'm guessing that WAS the reason I had lost boost and the engine sounded funny when I tried to accelerate. Crap. I also broke a few more hoses and bolts. So I have to order those too now. I know I'll appreciate the job when it's done, but the journey sure sucks.

86bratman
03-26-2015, 10:07 PM
If I'm not mistaken the sti wasn't equipped with the egt sensor, so you shouldn't have a problem with that aspect of it.
If it does there is always the old resistor mod the wrx guys use to fool the ecu, you'd have to look at that on nasioc though.

Yamazaki
03-27-2015, 08:42 AM
Okay. I'll go ahead with the STI ECU purchase then. The vehicle should still work with the Forester ECU though, right? I mean, enough to move it out of the garage so I can move the S401 back in?

86bratman
03-27-2015, 09:03 AM
Yeah it'll run just fine for that, the only thing you'd have problems with is in boost fueling.

Yamazaki
03-29-2015, 09:39 PM
So it turns out the VF48 is pretty much plug and play. I had to bend a pipe up a little because it was longer than the one on the TD04, but other than that it fit fine. I am still waiting on the dealer to get the parts so I can replace the hoses and bolts that I broke when taking everything out. I was told Tuesday at the earliest. I have everything pretty much buttoned up other than that stuff. The wife even helped change the fuel pump! I was surprised by her offer to help. She was bored out of her mind though...

I attempted to change the spark plugs and I got a coil pack stuck between the engine and fender. I can't get it out... I've already changed the plug, I was trying to put the coil pack back in when I got it jammed in there. After helping a friend change the plugs on her Nissan Rogue, and remembering how easy it was on my Miatas, I am convinced that Subaru hates people who change spark plugs.

Yamazaki
03-31-2015, 07:58 PM
Huge thanks to Hinyo for coming over and helping out. I'd seriously still be cursing and stressing if he hadn't helped out (and, he pointed out, I would've ruined some more hoses). Everything is buttoned up now and waiting for the hoses and lines I ordered from the dealer, which are estimated to arrive tomorrow.

Yamazaki
04-01-2015, 07:05 PM
Replaced the hoses, changed the oil filter, put some oil in it and started it up.... But it sounded a little odd. Just changing the uppipe shouldn't've given it such a loud rumble. I double checked the exhaust fittings and I can't find a leak either.... huh.

Also, I had to turn it off because there was smoke coming from the turbo.... I don't know what to do now.

Yamazaki
04-02-2015, 06:16 AM
So the smoke turned out to be just oil and coolant that I had spilled burning off. However, I took it out for a drive and the engine temp gauge says it's overheating. It also throws code P0545, but that's expected since it doesn't have an EGT sensor anymore. I still haven't tuned it or swapped the ECU, but if I'm not boosting or driving very hard, then I shouldn't be having issues, right?

xoSubieLegacyxo
04-02-2015, 06:57 AM
Sorry I haven't read this earlier then now. I'd highly suggest getting the tune asap! Even if you stay out of boost the ECU has no idea of the bigger turbo or up pipe installed. We'll talk more on Saturday.

chevyman1968
04-02-2015, 05:07 PM
Yeah you shouldn't be running the vf48 with running the STi Ecu or a tune man. Swap the td-04 back in man.


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Yamazaki
04-03-2015, 08:05 AM
The turbo wouldn't be causing the overheating, would it?
Also, how does the new (larger) fuel pump figure into everything? I remember that my STI fuel pump was the same size as the WRX, which happens to be the same size as the Forester XT. So if I put in a larger pump, aren't I running too rich now for the STI ECU?

I will call IAG and Agile Auto later today for answers to those questions, but I want to see what people here say first.

chevyman1968
04-03-2015, 08:56 AM
The fuel pump isn't going to cause the car to run rich as long as the fuel pressure regulator is doing its job. They only way that you would run rich is if you bumped up the fuel pressure in the fuel rails. Then the injectors wouldn't meter properly.

I can't help you with the overheating problem. I would check and make sure to burp the coolant in the car really well before assuming that something else is causing it. I had an air pocket in my car and it over heated off and on till I burped the system.


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Hinyo
04-03-2015, 09:14 AM
Yamazaki we may need to just burp the system. I can come over this afternoon if you want and we can give it a shot. Its a little different to burp on a turbo car that on an NA car but same process. Did you add any coolant and remove excess air post turbo swap?

Yamazaki
04-03-2015, 08:26 PM
So, yeah. The coolant just needed burping. Car runs fine now except for an exhaust leak that got worse, so now I know exactly where it is. I'll take care of it tomorrow before the meet.

Yamazaki
04-06-2015, 06:36 AM
The wife brought the Forester to the meet. No issues. However, she will continue to use the Merc as a daily driver until I source an ECU.

xoSubieLegacyxo
04-06-2015, 07:07 AM
AND your hood now closes without slamming it. Haha

Yamazaki
04-06-2015, 09:48 AM
AND your hood now closes without slamming it. Haha
Yes, thank you for that. I of course just prefer not having to open it in the first place!

Yamazaki
04-06-2015, 08:44 PM
It occurred to me that I still have the ECUtek piggyback unit that I used to have in the STi when it was first built up. Can I use that in the Forester? That'd save me a ton of money and still allow for future modifications. Now all I have to do is find somebody that knows a thing or two about tuning....

[EDIT: I just checked, and it isn't an ECUtek unit (although I have an ECUtek CD), it's a TurboXS tunerPro and some Blitz electronics and hardware I have]

xoSubieLegacyxo
04-07-2015, 06:42 PM
It occurred to me that I still have the ECUtek piggyback unit that I used to have in the STi when it was first built up. Can I use that in the Forester? That'd save me a ton of money and still allow for future modifications. Now all I have to do is find somebody that knows a thing or two about tuning....

[EDIT: I just checked, and it isn't an ECUtek unit (although I have an ECUtek CD), it's a TurboXS tunerPro and some Blitz electronics and hardware I have]

I'll talk to my friend Kyle who tunes his wrx. Maybe we can drive down and get it tuned in one day.

chevyman1968
04-07-2015, 06:44 PM
Yeah that should work for you bro


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Yamazaki
04-08-2015, 08:00 AM
I'll talk to my friend Kyle who tunes his wrx. Maybe we can drive down and get it tuned in one day.

That sounds cool. I downloaded the stock STI map from Turbo XS and planned to just load that into the computer, but I need to read up on how to connect and install everything. Apparently, the utek doesn't even kick in until 60% throttle though. From what I've read so far, that should be fine with what little I've done to the Forester.

chevyman1968
04-08-2015, 10:47 AM
Yeah the UTEC can't really control anything until the Ecu goes into open loop as far as I have heard.


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Yamazaki
04-09-2015, 03:50 PM
So the more I read the instructions and guide, the more I am uncertain about tuning this outside of a professional tuning shop. Unfortunately, IAG and Agile Auto both said they don't deal with the UTEC because it's so old. Turbo XS can still tune with it (as long as I bring all the hardware, which I have), but it'll cost $600 for only two maps. I can get an Access Port for that much and load up a stock STI map for free. I don't know which route to go now.
Should I get the AP and load a stock STI tune (although that won't match my Forester perfectly), or use the UTEC stuff I already have and shell out the cash to Turbo XS? What would you recommend, and more importantly, why?

rkrenicki
04-09-2015, 06:15 PM
Hmm.. Are the FXT and STI ecu essentially the same, except for the maps on them? My Tactrix cable should be able to reflash it with the STI image...

xoSubieLegacyxo
04-09-2015, 08:04 PM
So the more I read the instructions and guide, the more I am uncertain about tuning this outside of a professional tuning shop. Unfortunately, IAG and Agile Auto both said they don't deal with the UTEC because it's so old. Turbo XS can still tune with it (as long as I bring all the hardware, which I have), but it'll cost $600 for only two maps. I can get an Access Port for that much and load up a stock STI map for free. I don't know which route to go now.
Should I get the AP and load a stock STI tune (although that won't match my Forester perfectly), or use the UTEC stuff I already have and shell out the cash to Turbo XS? What would you recommend, and more importantly, why?

You can get a version 2 accessport for half the cost of a new one. Look on Nasioc they should be around $250-400.

Yamazaki
10-22-2015, 06:52 AM
So I never did get an '04 STi ECU or a tune of any kind. The wife drives it as she normally does, and when I drive it I place big restrictions on myself throttle-wise. No issues. I am installing a Blitz SBC-iD boost controller and restricting boost A LOT. I also installed the 2.2k ohm resistor to get rid of the CEL for the lack of an uppipe sensor. Everything has been fine, but due to the restrictions placed on it, the FXT is slower than the H6.

Once I make a decision on which one to keep, the other will get the full treatment.

rougeben83
10-26-2015, 01:46 PM
What supporting mods you have running with your VF48? It should give us a better idea of what the issues may be. Any codes (if so what are they)?

Yamazaki
10-27-2015, 06:15 AM
What supporting mods you have running with your VF48? It should give us a better idea of what the issues may be. Any codes (if so what are they)?

I only put in a catless uppipe and 255 lph fuel pump other than the VF48. The code that comes up is just because the uppipe I have doesn't have an EGT plug. I can stop that with a 2.2k ohm resistor (which I already have). The only issue is not having it tuned. The wife has been driving it just fine, but she doesn't ever give it more than 50% throttle and never goes above 3k rpms. (not because of the mods and lack of tuning, that's just how she drives)

However, if I want to drive it, then I am careful to try to keep it boosting as little as possible because of the comments said earlier in this thread.

nepbug
10-28-2015, 01:30 AM
You can get an open source road tune in the$150-$300 range. Seems like a no-brainer. Of course, you'll need a tactrix cable, so add a hundred buck or so to that.

Or if you want to spend more get a downpipe and an accessport and lead the stage 2 vf39 map.

Depending on what you want to do though, a compression and leak down test might be the best place to start. Verify motor health before adding much stress.

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Yamazaki
10-28-2015, 06:01 AM
You can get an open source road tune in the$150-$300 range. Seems like a no-brainer. Of course, you'll need a tactrix cable, so add a hundred buck or so to that.

Or if you want to spend more get a downpipe and an accessport and lead the stage 2 vf39 map.

Depending on what you want to do though, a compression and leak down test might be the best place to start. Verify motor health before adding much stress.
Well, for that cost I could just get a used '04 STi ECU. I definitely don't want to be spending more money on a vehicle I may not keep. And the motor is healthy. It's already been checked by IAG. Strangely, the previous owners were both middle-aged women with no interest in speed. The trend continues with my wife as the primary driver.... This has to be the saddest FXT ever (because it never gets to run and play with the other fast cars).

Yamazaki
11-05-2015, 08:20 PM
Well, the wife drove over a sharp metal piece and didn't notice that she drove on a flattened tire for who-knows-how-long yesterday. I happened to have my old Outback wheels/tires, but two of them have nails in them (I'm guessing the wife aims for shiny things in the road when she's driving), but they are 225/60R16 while the Forester tires are 225/55R16. Hinyo came to the rescue with the wheels/tires from his Legacy!
The Forester has depended on him a few times now. Many thanks!

dodik
11-06-2015, 10:26 AM
that sucks, on ebay you can generally find one tire with similar wear, unless you want to replace all of them.

Yamazaki
11-06-2015, 02:04 PM
that sucks, on ebay you can generally find one tire with similar wear, unless you want to replace all of them.
I'll probably replace all of them after I get back. I have no idea how long the current tires have been on (it looks like awhile), so it's time for a change anyway.

Yamazaki
11-13-2015, 04:57 PM
Damn it, so much for not going crazy with the FXT. Parts are just too plentiful and cheap here in Japan....
Pics will have to wait until I get back. Here's a list so far:
1 and 2) HVAC surround w/cupholder and celsius HVAC controls
3, 4, and 5) Forester STi lateral links, control arms, and trailing links
6) Rear spoiler w/LED 3rd brake light
7) GD (C type) STi intercooler

I may end up changing my mind on which vehicle to keep after all this....

chevyman1968
11-13-2015, 06:10 PM
Yes!!!


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98legwag
11-13-2015, 06:44 PM
Either car would be good to keep.

Yamazaki
11-13-2015, 07:20 PM
Either car would be good to keep.
Yeah, but with the almost $8k worth of body work wanted for the H6 and the toys I'm getting for the FXT, the scale has started to tip in favor of keeping the FXT. I am going to the local Super Autobacs later today. I anticipate further hits to my wallet.
The funny thing is that the H6 is so loaded with "JDM" stuff that there really isn't anything else I can get for it here. Hell, with 8-way power seats (driver AND passenger), extra power outlets, full auto front windows, and more, it's better than an actual Blitzen6 at this point (except for the bodywork).

Hinyo
11-13-2015, 08:51 PM
I like where this is going!!!

Yamazaki
11-14-2015, 05:34 PM
Well, I went, but there really wasn't much I wanted to buy. I got some rolls of high-quality window film (tint) and air fresheners to replenish my stock at home. The problem is that pretty much anything one would get at Autobacs can be found in the US or online.
However, I am going today to get some things that can truly only be found in Japan....

98legwag
11-14-2015, 07:41 PM
You have my attention sir

Yamazaki
11-22-2015, 10:22 PM
Updated mod list in first post.

nepbug
11-23-2015, 12:29 AM
So, it looks like I'll be traveling to Japan next summer. Where do you go to find parts (like where you got your lat links, HVAC controls, etc)?

Also, another tuning suggestion now that I've read the entire thread. Buy a used Tactrix OpenPort, flash the STi OEM map and then sell the OpenPort. Should pretty much break even.

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Yamazaki
11-23-2015, 03:08 AM
So, it looks like I'll be traveling to Japan next summer. Where do you go to find parts (like where you got your lat links, HVAC controls, etc)?

Also, another tuning suggestion now that I've read the entire thread. Buy a used Tactrix OpenPort, flash the STi OEM map and then sell the OpenPort. Should pretty much break even.

Well, there are junkyards in the countryside that you can get parts for cheap, but the selection is always limited. I also use yahoo auctions and have a Japanese address that the parts can be sent to. The other place I have gotten parts from in the past is the dealership. Just like in the US, it's a sure bet for the parts you're looking for (and can't find anywhere else), but more expensive. Just be sure to have the proper model code of the vehicle you want parts from.

@rkrenicki (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/member.php?u=1733) already tried to flash the STi OEM map and that didn't go well. I'm just going to buy the '04 STI ECU when I can get my hands on one for less than $300. The Forester has been driven this whole time and no issues (other than having no signal from the deleted EGT sensor) have come up. But I would like the ability to drive it as I'd like to. One upside to driving the Forester the way I have been- I get pretty decent gas mileage.

Yamazaki
12-06-2015, 05:26 PM
Comparison picture new vs old:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4702-1.jpg

However, I am having trouble getting these two bolts out. I can't get my air gun in there or a breaker bar. Any ideas?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4703-1.jpg

I sheared off the head of one of the outer endlink bolts, so I have to buy one from the dealer (still have to get the remainder of the bolt out). I also destroyed the endlinks, but I'm just going to replace with OEM ones instead of upgrading them. I briefly considered getting whiteline endlinks and rear swaybar, but it's not like I'm going to ever autocross the Forester or anything.

Also finally got an '04 STi ECU. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can finally install it.

dodik
12-07-2015, 08:56 AM
put a good 6 point close end wrench on that nut and a jack below to break it loose.

Hinyo
12-07-2015, 12:14 PM
2 close ends together than try the jack method. and don't forget to support the other side.

Yamazaki
12-07-2015, 12:42 PM
The problem with the jack is that this is on the Forester. The jack won't reach up that high. The Forester is up as high as I could get it on jackstands and those bolts are even further up than where I jack the car up from.

Hinyo
12-07-2015, 12:58 PM
Either put the jack on a brick or a brick on the jack. Wood 2x4 works as well. I might have some free time this friday if you want some help?

Yamazaki
12-07-2015, 02:16 PM
Either put the jack on a brick or a brick on the jack. Wood 2x4 works as well. I might have some free time this friday if you want some help?I'll try that, thanks! I probably will still be working on the Forester this weekend. I have A LOT of stuff to put on it. (And I ordered more)

I got my '04 STI ECU today! Putting that in right after I click 'post'!

Yamazaki
12-07-2015, 02:59 PM
New vs old:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4706-1.jpg


The Forester doesn't have any back end suspension right now, otherwise I'd take it out and drive it around. What's weird though is that it idles at 1250rpm now and there's a strong gas smell.... I hope that all goes away eventually.

nepbug
12-08-2015, 08:34 AM
Is it cold out? Could be the fuel house clamps backing off in the cold weather.

Along the subject of your STi turbo, did you swap in the STi restrictor pill too?

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dodik
12-08-2015, 09:21 AM
The problem with the jack is that this is on the Forester. The jack won't reach up that high. The Forester is up as high as I could get it on jackstands and those bolts are even further up than where I jack the car up from.

If it is that high do you know how to put a wrench on a wrench for more leverage? Did you try impact on the bolt head?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/attachmentphpattachmentid13518d127979489-1.jpg

Yamazaki
12-08-2015, 10:41 AM
Is it cold out? Could be the fuel house clamps backing off in the cold weather.

Along the subject of your STi turbo, did you swap in the STi restrictor pill too?
It was warm enough for me to wear t-shirt and shorts, so not too cold.
I only swapped in the turbo itself. Anything not part of the turbo was not transferred over. What restrictor pill though? My STi doesn't seem to have one...


If it is that high do you know how to put a wrench on a wrench for more leverage? Did you try impact on the bolt head?

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/attachmentphpattachmentid13518d127979489-1.jpg

I LOVE that! I am so trying that when I get home today.

98legwag
12-08-2015, 01:33 PM
Breaker bars work well too. You can pick one up for around $20. I just got this one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Drive-15-in-Breaker-Bar-H12BB15/202923417

Yamazaki
12-08-2015, 01:37 PM
Breaker bars work well too. You can pick one up for around $20. I just got this one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Drive-15-in-Breaker-Bar-H12BB15/202923417

I already have a 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar. But the bolt is so close to stuff around it that I can't get a regular socket on there. I have to use a wrench.

Yamazaki
12-08-2015, 06:32 PM
Okay, the wrench-on-wrench technique was nice, but I am just not strong enough to get it to budge. I plan now to take the axle out so I can get the impact gun in there. I also have to buy a drill and metal drill bit. The outer link bolt that I sheared off still won't budge, despite being soaked in PB blaster for two days. It has to be drilled out.:cry:

On the bright side, the rear struts came off with little drama. I will be replacing the Forester struts/springs with WRX wagon struts/springs. It won't sag as much as sedan struts/springs, but I may still need spacers. I'll see how it looks after I install everything first.

xoSubieLegacyxo
12-08-2015, 10:39 PM
Okay, the wrench-on-wrench technique was nice, but I am just not strong enough to get it to budge. I plan now to take the axle out so I can get the impact gun in there. I also have to buy a drill and metal drill bit. The outer link bolt that I sheared off still won't budge, despite being soaked in PB blaster for two days. It has to be drilled out.:cry:

On the bright side, the rear struts came off with little drama. I will be replacing the Forester struts/springs with WRX wagon struts/springs. It won't sag as much as sedan struts/springs, but I may still need spacers. I'll see how it looks after I install everything first.

Call me ahead of time so I can help with loosening rusty bolts. It's 75% of my daily routine at the body shop! Haha

Hinyo
12-09-2015, 03:07 AM
It was warm enough for me to wear t-shirt and shorts, so not too cold.
I only swapped in the turbo itself. Anything not part of the turbo was not transferred over. What restrictor pill though? My STi doesn't seem to have one...



I LOVE that! I am so trying that when I get home today.

That was the wrench method I was referring to

Yamazaki
12-09-2015, 06:10 PM
First the rant...

I am so demoralized by the continuing losing battle against the Forester. I rounded off on of the suspension bolts, so I have NO idea how to get it out now. I also still don't have any progress on those two bolts I posted pictures of earlier. I gave up on the back end for now and went to the engine bay. I replaced the pitch mount with an identical (but in better condition) pitch mount a member sold me, insisting it was an STI pitch mount. Even the bushings have the same part numbers though...:-?
Anyway,
Old vs New:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4707-1.jpg

The issue is that the A/C lines get in the way of the STI intercooler... I know it should fit (other people have done it), but I don't know how they did it.

nepbug
12-10-2015, 07:12 AM
Zip ties and some gentle bending will get the AC lines out of your way

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nepbug
12-10-2015, 07:22 AM
This photo should help with the restrictor pill locating.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/IMG_3472-1.jpg

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Yamazaki
12-10-2015, 08:59 AM
Zip ties and some gentle bending will get the AC lines out of your way
Thank you, I will definitely try that.


This photo should help with the restrictor pill locating.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/IMG_3472-1.jpg


Ah, that part was not changed, so if there was one before, there still is. As I said before, only the turbo itself was changed out. As for my Impreza, I guess I should've figured it'd be gone considering how much it has changed.

dodik
12-10-2015, 11:48 AM
First the rant...
I rounded off on of the suspension bolts, so I have NO idea how to get it out now. I also still don't have any progress on those two bolts I posted pictures of earlier.

Well if the bolts don't come out, or rounded off I generally go to two of my favorite tools, grinder or sawzall. Depending if i am trying to save the the bolt or not, I will either grind the nut off on one face till the threads of the bolt or cut the bolt off completely. If you don;t have either then Harbor freight is your friend, their grinder and saw are both cheap enough.

PS post a pic of rounded bolt i'm having hard time picturing it and what is needed to get it off.

DaveM
12-10-2015, 11:54 AM
First the rant...

I am so demoralized by the continuing losing battle against the Forester. I rounded off on of the suspension bolts, so I have NO idea how to get it out now. I also still don't have any progress on those two bolts I posted pictures of earlier. I gave up on the back end for now and went to the engine bay. I replaced the pitch mount with an identical (but in better condition) pitch mount a member sold me, insisting it was an STI pitch mount. Even the bushings have the same part numbers though...:-?
Anyway,
Old vs New:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4707-1.jpg

The issue is that the A/C lines get in the way of the STI intercooler... I know it should fit (other people have done it), but I don't know how they did it.

If your still planning on removing the axle to get a socket on there pick up a set of turbo sockets. They work wonders on rounded of nuts/bolts in most cases.

nepbug
12-10-2015, 05:12 PM
Ah, that part was not changed, so if there was one before, there still is. As I said before, only the turbo itself was changed out. As for my Impreza, I guess I should've figured it'd be gone considering how much it has changed.

The restrictor pill size is different between the two. You can either buy an STi one from the dealership or you can drill out yours. Here's a list of restrictor pill sizes:

2007 STi WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.0335”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~9psi
2004-2006 STi WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.043”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~10psi
2005-2006 LGT WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.049”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~10psi
2004-2005 FXT WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~7psi
2004-2005 WRX WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~6psi
2002-2003 WRX WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”

Since you are running an VF39 on a 2004 STi ECU, then you should drill it out to .043", which also coincides with a #57 drill/reamer size.

Edit, actually it looks like you might already be larger than that, in that case you have to buy the new size pill.

Yamazaki
12-10-2015, 06:26 PM
Another day of one step forward, two steps back. First, the positive:
new vs old
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4710-1.jpg

Believe it or not, I didn't F**k up anything with this. Amazing.:D So now I have a stainless steel braided clutch line. Next, I managed to take off the front struts without shearing or rounding off any bolts. Also amazing. :D
Next, the bad. I sheared off the bolt that I needed to undo to take out the ball joint. Not so amazing. :-( I also stripped out the hex fitting on the front endlinks. So I don't know what I'm going to do there either. I tried to get the bolts to the control arms to budge, but no joy there either. So now I have a Forester up in the air with issues in the rear suspension, front suspension, and engine bay. I only have two weeks left before I HAVE to have this on the road....

The restrictor pill size is different between the two. You can either buy an STi one from the dealership or you can drill out yours. Here's a list of restrictor pill sizes:

2007 STi WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.0335”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~9psi
2004-2006 STi WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.043”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~10psi
2005-2006 LGT WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.049”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~10psi
2004-2005 FXT WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~7psi
2004-2005 WRX WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”
Factory wastegate pre-tensioned to ~6psi
2002-2003 WRX WGDC Tables
Stock restrictor pill size = ~.047”

Since you are running an VF39 on a 2004 STi ECU, then you should drill it out to .043", which also coincides with a #57 drill/reamer size.

Edit, actually it looks like you might already be larger than that, in that case you have to buy the new size pill.

So what would happen if I just leave the Forester pill there? It looks like I just don't run higher boost, which I am totally fine with. What would happen if I take it out?

dodik
12-10-2015, 07:47 PM
endlinks always strip the hex, most aftermarket endlinks have a square at one end to hold them with a wrench. trying to save them will probably drive you mad, so just cut them off and install new ones.

Sheared off balljoint bolt is very common unfortunately. The only way is drill it out.
For control arm are you using impact or at least a cheater bar on the breaker bar?

Yamazaki
12-11-2015, 06:13 AM
endlinks always strip the hex, most aftermarket endlinks have a square at one end to hold them with a wrench. trying to save them will probably drive you mad, so just cut them off and install new ones.

Sheared off balljoint bolt is very common unfortunately. The only way is drill it out.
For control arm are you using impact or at least a cheater bar on the breaker bar?
Well, that's a shame about the endlinks. The rears were in bad shape so I didn't mind buying new ones, but the fronts are in really good condition (except the rounded out hex). I'm going to Harbor Freight after work today to address all the sheared off bolts I have now. I'm using both an impact gun (which doesn't seem to be too effective, I am discovering) and a breaker bar with a 3ft galvanized steel pipe extension. I'm just scared to over-do it and shear off the bolts going into the frame so I'm not giving it my all. I soaked it with PB blaster, so I'll try again today.

dodik
12-11-2015, 10:39 AM
if you really want to keep the endlinks then you could make the end into a square shape by grinding it to fit like 6mm or smaller wrench. Or just use wisegrips to grab the end. This is very time consuming and will make you wish you just bought a set of moog links.

xoSubieLegacyxo
12-11-2015, 11:04 PM
Try applying heat to the bolts so that they metal will expand and then apply PB blaster to cool the metal this shrinking it. Get a small propane torch from the local hardware store.

Yamazaki
12-12-2015, 02:23 PM
@Hinyo (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/member.php?u=3034) now knows my pain. We worked for hours and managed to only get two bolts loose. I drilled out one of the ball joint bolts, but we couldn't get the ball joint out. I destroyed the axle in the process of attempting to remove the ball joint so now I have to replace that as well as the front endlinks.

No progress in the rear or engine bay. I hate this car.

nepbug
12-13-2015, 10:30 AM
So what would happen if I just leave the Forester pill there? It looks like I just don't run higher boost, which I am totally fine with. What would happen if I take it out?

It causes either an over or under boost condition. I think too big causes underboost and too small causes boost spikes, but I'm not 100% on that.

Yamazaki
12-13-2015, 01:30 PM
It causes either an over or under boost condition. I think too big causes underboost and too small causes boost spikes, but I'm not 100% on that.

Okay, so it will under boost. I'm fine with that for now. I may revisit it once everything is finished and the car is road worthy once again, but that isn't very high on my priority list at the moment.

nepbug
12-14-2015, 12:24 PM
For the ball joint issue you could try to build your own "ball tugger" tool.

Or Snap On and Company 23 make a version themselves too.
http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=355&Product_Code=C23-532&Category_Code=COMPANY23

http://www.vehicleservicepros.com/product/10728362/snap-on-inc-ball-joint-remover-no-bjr1-for-subaru

I made my own, and others have too, some are as simple as a bolt nut and some pipe nipples. Worth investing in if you live where rust is an issue.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/dPjgOfyl-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/me3giw9l-1.jpg

Or google subaru ball joint socket trick to give you another option.

Yamazaki
12-14-2015, 12:32 PM
I love it, thanks!

rkrenicki
12-14-2015, 03:43 PM
oh yea, those things are great. I borrowed one from rougeben83, and it made my balls slide right out.

Dead91silvia
12-15-2015, 01:19 AM
oh yea, those things are great. I borrowed one from rougeben83, and it made my balls slide right out.

This is so not right... LMAO

86bratman
12-15-2015, 10:28 AM
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-handling/134369210-diy-subaru-ball-joint-removal-tool-around-18-1-lug-nut.html

rougeben83
12-15-2015, 11:47 AM
oh yea, those things are great. I borrowed one from rougeben83, and it made my balls slide right out.

Hah! Phrasing!

rkrenicki
12-15-2015, 03:35 PM
I regret nothing. I spoke the truth.

dodik
12-23-2015, 09:16 AM
oh yea, those things are great. I borrowed one from rougeben83, and it made my balls slide right out.


Hah! Phrasing!

Ben I never knew what kinda doctor you are, well I know now.

Yamazaki
12-23-2015, 11:11 AM
Yesterday Hinyo and I (mostly him) made a DIY ball joint removal tool and it didn't work very well. It looks like the ball joint has rusted into the knuckle. There isn't even a seam between the two. Today we will rebuild the rear brake that I messed up and then try to remove and replace the front axle. Then I will just take the whole knuckle to a shop and let them deal with the ball joint. I made some progress drilling out the long connector bolt for the rear lateral links, but it still won't come out. I'm coming down to the wire before I need this vehicle working, and I'm sweating it.

dodik
12-23-2015, 12:48 PM
i wish i took a pic of the balljoint I pulled from the tribeca, to get it from the knuckle I inserted my angle grinder with a new cutting disc, into the split on the knuckle, that cut it about 1/3 of the way, then with vise grips i rotated the ball joint, inside the knuckle 90 degrees and made another cut. then again and again.

After i had 4 cuts into ball joint, i put on the wise grips as tight as i could to squeeze it as much as i could. Finally with a thin punch I punched it out from the knuckle.

But there were other ways that I tried that day. below is my description of that whole day.
http://www.sb9t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3307

Yamazaki
12-23-2015, 06:43 PM
i wish i took a pic of the balljoint I pulled from the tribeca, to get it from the knuckle I inserted my angle grinder with a new cutting disc, into the split on the knuckle, that cut it about 1/3 of the way, then with vise grips i rotated the ball joint, inside the knuckle 90 degrees and made another cut. then again and again.

After i had 4 cuts into ball joint, i put on the wise grips as tight as i could to squeeze it as much as i could. Finally with a thin punch I punched it out from the knuckle.

But there were other ways that I tried that day. below is my description of that whole day.
http://www.sb9t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3307
He had already tried that, except the ball joint wouldn't rotate. Keep in mind that this vehicle has almost 213,000 miles on it and it's never had any suspension work (I have all of the service records for it. The two previous owners were VERY organized middle-aged ladies).

Anyway, today saw progress. Glorious progress! Hinyo masterfully rebuilt my rear brake and we proceeded to remove the front spindle knuckles. I will take them to a shop tomorrow and they can remove/replace the ball joints and drill out the ball joint bolt. It'll likely cost me, but at least it'll get done. We put in the new control arms and the Impreza suspension. I will continue to try drilling out the rear lateral link bolt over the next couple days and Hinyo will return to help me wrap things up in a few days. Hopefully, I can have this completed by the time my wife returns from Japan.

nepbug
12-24-2015, 12:42 AM
I was totally expecting you to day the hub was seized to the axle spline, glad that wasn't the case!

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Yamazaki
12-24-2015, 06:11 AM
I was totally expecting you to day the hub was seized to the axle spline, glad that wasn't the case!

Oh the driver side was, but since the axle had already broken in half it wasn't an issue. I'll take a picture today before I drop it off at a shop (if I can find one open on Christmas eve...).

nepbug
12-24-2015, 06:29 AM
Oh the driver side was, but since the axle had already broken in half it wasn't an issue. I'll take a picture today before I drop it off at a shop (if I can find one open on Christmas eve...).

Lol, yeah been there and I don't live in a rust state. On my Impreza I had a rear axle seize in the hub so bad that I took the knuckle off the car and put it in my 12 ton hydraulic press to remove it, all that did was bend my press! Had to get a new axle and knuckle (was doing a disc swap so a new knuckle was already planned).

I now make sure to apply anti-seize to the splines every time.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Hinyo
12-24-2015, 11:31 AM
This process has been frustrating to say the least. But I'm glad to have seen some progress. Just heard from Yama. Took the knuckles to the shop Drivers side wouldn't budge with a 20 ton press. EVEN AFTER I cut a slit into it there was NO separation. Have to get a new driver side knuckle. DIY balljoint puller pulled the threads out rather than pull the ball joint out. And screws have the best mechanical advantage of any tool. and it was 19mm thread... I was dumbfounded. Will be back after the break. Happy to help Yama!!! Cant wait to see it all come together. Don't forget to use that punch kit we got with the angle grinder and cutoff wheel

Yamazaki
12-24-2015, 11:31 AM
So I took them to the shop...

Passenger side is good to go now. Here is the obligatory "old vs new" pic:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4718-1.jpg

As for the driver side- they couldn't get anything apart. They even used their 20 ton press and this is still what I came back with:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4721-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4720-1.jpg

I've ordered a new knuckle, but there is no possible way I will have the car working before my wife returns. I'll just have to get a rental... And I'm having to borrow money again. I wish somebody were interested in buying the S401....

Hinyo
12-24-2015, 11:39 AM
so i took them to the shop...

Passenger side is good to go now. Here is the obligatory "old vs new" pic:

as for the driver side- they couldn't get anything apart. They even used their 20 ton press and this is still what i came back with:

i've ordered a new knuckle, but there is no possible way i will have the car working before my wife returns. I'll just have to get a rental... And i'm having to borrow money again. I wish somebody were interested in buying the s401....

crazy rays has a forester(s) in jessup!!!

nepbug
12-26-2015, 11:27 PM
Might want to consider swapping over those rear control arm bushings as the Forester ones are different. Also, make sure you have the boss (as Subaru calls it), the metal cone piece, that goes over your ball joints before you put them into those aluminum control arms, Subaru P/N 20216FA000.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/stiballjoints_zpsc344d5a6-1.jpg

Hinyo
12-27-2015, 12:51 AM
Might want to consider swapping over those rear control arm bushings as the Forester ones are different. Also, make sure you have the boss (as Subaru calls it), the metal cone piece, that goes over your ball joints before you put them into those aluminum control arms, Subaru P/N 20216FA000.



he has them.

Yamazaki
12-27-2015, 07:37 AM
The control arms are from a Forester STI so I'm pretty sure the bushings are fine. And yeah, they came with the little metal cones too. The intercooler was the only thing I am uncertain of because it came from an Impreza. And I was right to be uncertain. I had to buy a new pipe that goes from the inlet pipe to the blow off valve. I bought an '06-'07 Forester (which is the same part number for the '05-'07 WRX) pipe and now it fits.

nepbug
12-27-2015, 07:51 AM
The control arms are from a Forester STI so I'm pretty sure the bushings are fine. And yeah, they came with the little metal cones too. The intercooler was the only thing I am uncertain of because it came from an Impreza. And I was right to be uncertain. I had to buy a new pipe that goes from the inlet pipe to the blow off valve. I bought an '06-'07 Forester (which is the same part number for the '05-'07 WRX) pipe and now it fits.

Awesome, just didn't want you to hit another delay as I know you've got a deadline.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Yamazaki
12-27-2015, 07:59 AM
Awesome, just didn't want you to hit another delay as I know you've got a deadline.

Thank you. Yeah, I keep running into new "learning experiences" with this. The big takeaway I've learned is don't work on a car from the mid-Atlantic region with over 200K miles on it.

Also, I told the wife that there is some potential that it won't be ready before she gets here and she actually said she could just drive the Impreza until the work on the Forester is done. I'm wondering if she'll still feel that way after driving the Impreza again. I know she hates it. But hey, at least I don't need to get a rental.

98legwag
12-27-2015, 11:51 AM
Thank you. Yeah, I keep running into new "learning experiences" with this. The big takeaway I've learned is don't work on a car from the mid-Atlantic region with over 200K miles on it.

Every time I am under my wagon I feel this way and its only got 180k miles on it.

Yamazaki
12-27-2015, 08:59 PM
A picture says a thousand words, so I'll just post this:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4723-1.jpg

However, there is one minor fitment issue (but it doesn't budge, so I'm not going to do anything about it):
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2015/12/DSCF4724-1.jpg

Hinyo
12-27-2015, 11:28 PM
We made more progress than that... new drivers side axle is in place. Lateral link on the passengers side can go in. Sheared the bolt off with a pry bar no worries though just hardware. Crazy how it broke though. Bolt looks super clean but was rusted/friction welded shut. Also Removed the rear passenger hub to take to the machine shop.

Hinyo
12-28-2015, 05:49 PM
More progress but I am sure Yama will update. Meeting back up tomorrow

Yamazaki
12-29-2015, 07:03 AM
So I had already broken a total of four drill bits and spent a number of days trying to drill out the seized bolt for the lateral links before I decided to give up and call a machine shop. Machine shops turned me away for the removal of the lateral link bolt and two of them directed me to the dealer. The dealer had it out in 15 mins. "This happens all the time" they said. I would say "now I know for next time" except that if there is a next time I'm working on rusted suspension, I'll just blow the car up instead and get a new one.

Work may or may not occur today depending on work I am doing for a friend. The back end should be all taken care of today (if work is done) or tomorrow. Front end is waiting on the delivery of the driver side knuckle/hub. Oh, and I am getting new tie rod ends. I've squeezed so much grease out of them that I worry that I'll have to replace them soon anyway.

98legwag
12-29-2015, 08:37 AM
Tie rods are cheap and easy enough that it makes sense while everything else is apart.

Hinyo
12-29-2015, 11:30 AM
So I had already broken a total of four drill bits and spent a number of days trying to drill out the seized bolt for the lateral links before I decided to give up and call a machine shop. Machine shops turned me away for the removal of the lateral link bolt and two of them directed me to the dealer. The dealer had it out in 15 mins. "This happens all the time" they said. I would say "now I know for next time" except that if there is a next time I'm working on rusted suspension, I'll just blow the car up instead and get a new one.

Work may or may not occur today depending on work I am doing for a friend. The back end should be all taken care of today (if work is done) or tomorrow. Front end is waiting on the delivery of the driver side knuckle/hub. Oh, and I am getting new tie rod ends. I've squeezed so much grease out of them that I worry that I'll have to replace them soon anyway.

All I want to know is how the hell they got it out. Delvin probably knows... damn subaru magic

Yamazaki
12-29-2015, 07:14 PM
Passenger rear side just needs the hub nut tightened and that corner is done! I had to rebuild the parking brake because some of the components broke when I took the hub apart to take to the dealer. I still need to tackle some issues with the other three corners. So here are the totals so far for new parts:

What I brought back and intended to install (and be done with it):
1) lateral links
2) control arms
3) intercooler

Additional purchases for one reason or another:
1) intercooler inlet pipe (old one didn't work w/intercooler)
2) Y pipe (old one didn't work w/intercooler)
3) blow off valve (old one didn't work w/intercooler)
4) all struts/springs (from an Impreza. I piled on with the project at this point)
5) both trailing arms (just because the ones I grabbed were cleaner, not because I broke the old ones)
6) all bolts/nuts for the passenger side lateral links (that's 3 sets I broke on one side alone)
7) bolt/nut for inner lateral link on driver side
8) bolts/nuts for driver rear suspension
9) driver front axle
10 both front endlinks
11) both rear endlinks
12) both tie rod ends
13) driver front hub/knuckle
14) both ball joints
15) passenger parking brake assembly
16) drill (and numerous drill bits)
17) a couple new wrenches/sockets I didn't have (like the 32mm for the hub nut)
18) dealer charge for removing seized lateral link bolt


So it looks like I've gained over 20 new things. What I've lost:
1) sanity


I don't foresee any further complications (I probably shouldn't've said that) as long as the front hub/knuckle I ordered gets here in time.

98legwag
12-30-2015, 11:33 AM
Not sure if it will help or you need anything but there are 2 03 Foresters at Crazy Rays in Jessup.

Yamazaki
12-30-2015, 06:32 PM
Not sure if it will help or you need anything but there are 2 03 Foresters at Crazy Rays in Jessup.

Thanks, I may go there for some interior parts I need.

As for an update to the Forester "project" (I don't know if you can call replacing stuff I broke a project):
All corners except driver-side rear is put back together and wheels on! One stubborn bolt that I tried to cut off and wasn't very successful remains. Once that bolt is removed I can put everything back together and I'll be finished! It's so close!

You know the most deflating part of all this? My wife won't even be able to tell the difference. Not even with the STI intercooler and ECU. She'll be all "I thought you said you did a lot of work on it. What did you do?"


*sigh*

nepbug
12-31-2015, 11:36 AM
Thanks, I may go there for some interior parts I need.

As for an update to the Forester "project" (I don't know if you can call replacing stuff I broke a project):
All corners except driver-side rear is put back together and wheels on! One stubborn bolt that I tried to cut off and wasn't very successful remains. Once that bolt is removed I can put everything back together and I'll be finished! It's so close!

You know the most deflating part of all this? My wife won't even be able to tell the difference. Not even with the STI intercooler and ECU. She'll be all "I thought you said you did a lot of work on it. What did you do?"


*sigh*

I know the feeling, I pretty much categorize my mods as things the wife will notice and things she won't. The mods I found my wife noticed the most were heated seats, shift knob swaps, tint and ride height changes; everything else is lost in the noise.

Yamazaki
01-01-2016, 03:53 PM
So that's it, it's done. I finally was able to grind off that stubborn bolt and then put everything back together.

Impressions:

1) I won't need a saggy butt spacer after all. The WRX wagon suspension has even spacing all the way around. And I am so happy with the WRX suspension. It isn't stiff and jarring like my Impreza (which, believe it or not, is still the factory suspension), but doesn't roll like a boat out at sea anymore.
2)I need an alignment badly. I changed absolutely everything under there and I can tell that it's out of whack. Despite that, I am sure my wife won't notice. I'll be making an appointment for alignment as soon as possible though.
3) Good lord, what a difference the STI ECU makes! I think the fuel efficiency gained by lowering the Forester will be countered by lead foot syndrome.
4) I really need to bleed the clutch. When I changed the clutch line, I think I let too much air into the system because there is all sorts of pedal travel and it doesn't always pop back out.

All in all, I'm quite pleased with it (or at least, with what I can tell it'll be once I bleed the clutch and get an alignment). And I cannot overstate how happy I am that I didn't put on STI suspension. This is the sweet spot of comfort and sporty. It reminds me of the '00 Audi S4 I had a long time ago.
Thanks again to Hinyo's dedication to his fellow Subaru owner. I seriously couldn't've done it without his help.

Yay! Now to put on that tint and the Forester STI center console. Those are things that won't kick my ass. (because no rusted parts are involved)

...or I'll be lazy now and just relax (because I can).

Hinyo
01-01-2016, 03:59 PM
So that's it, it's done. I finally was able to grind off that stubborn bolt and then put everything back together.

Impressions:

1) I won't need a saggy butt spacer after all. The WRX wagon suspension has even spacing all the way around. And I am so happy with the WRX suspension. It isn't stiff and jarring like my Impreza (which, believe it or not, is still the factory suspension), but doesn't roll like a boat out at sea anymore.
2)I need an alignment badly. I changed absolutely everything under there and I can tell that it's out of whack. Despite that, I am sure my wife won't notice. I'll be making an appointment for alignment as soon as possible though.
3) Good lord, what a difference the STI ECU makes! I think the fuel efficiency gained by lowering the Forester will be countered by lead foot syndrome.
4) I really need to bleed the clutch. When I changed the clutch line, I think I let too much air into the system because there is all sorts of pedal travel and it doesn't always pop back out.

All in all, I'm quite pleased with it (or at least, with what I can tell it'll be once I bleed the clutch and get an alignment). And I cannot overstate how happy I am that I didn't put on STI suspension. This is the sweet spot of comfort and sporty. It reminds me of the '00 Audi S4 I had a long time ago.
Thanks again to Hinyo's dedication to his fellow Subaru owner. I seriously couldn't've done it without his help.

Yay! Now to put on that tint and the Forester STI center console. Those are things that won't kick my ass. (because no rusted parts are involved)

...or I'll be lazy now and just relax (because I can).

I like the lazy plan lol. Ill stop by a bit later and see it all for myself =)

Glad to have helped. Anytime like i said Yamazaki Im willing to help!!!

Enjoy the new year!!!!

98legwag
01-01-2016, 05:02 PM
Glad you got it wrapped up. I agree with you on the wrx wagon suspension. Its what I have on my 98 wagon and its perfect for that car. That being said, I love the Bilsteins on my 3.0R Limited as well.

Yamazaki
01-01-2016, 07:14 PM
Thanks everybody! Don't expect any updates on the Forester, or any other car of mine, for a good long while though. Besides my recent experience working on "Project: Rust-Bucket", I just bought Fall-Out New Vegas a few days ago (yeah yeah, I'm years behind) and I expect that will drain all of my time and focus until something greater comes along.

Hinyo
01-03-2016, 07:51 PM
Just took this for a drive... So granted... I don't really drive much that has in terms of power... but I've driven a few WRX's as a valet and a few STI's and other things not very far or in boost granted... so to me I guess anything is fast.

IT PULLS LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN AND FEELS LIKE AN ANIMAL!!!!

I will be TOTALLY happy to have that sort of power once i do my swap...

Thanks again Yama. I was more than happy to help put this together.

*fingers crossed* its not a wheel bearing issue....

Yamazaki
01-04-2016, 10:42 AM
Thanks for the kind words.
And it turns out that not only is the front driver side wheel bearing totally shot, the passenger front side is also going. I'm having both replaced today with an alignment afterwards. It also is overdue for a timing belt replacement (but I already knew that).

This is why I don't like older vehicles. The upkeep costs get to be astronomical.

rkrenicki
01-04-2016, 01:15 PM
How much are the wheel bearings going to be? I think one of my fronts may be starting to go, and I was thinking about just having them both done to be done with them.

98legwag
01-04-2016, 01:49 PM
Wheel bearings/hubs bolt on to the knuckle on the 4th gen. I wish all the others where like that.

nepbug
01-04-2016, 01:49 PM
How much are the wheel bearings going to be? I think one of my fronts may be starting to go, and I was thinking about just having them both done to be done with them.
Yamazaki can answer what he's seeing for prices, but a bearing and seal kit from Subaru is in the $60-$75 range for each wheel when I did mine last year. Of course I had to spend about $100 getting the tool to do them from Harbor Freight too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

Yamazaki
01-04-2016, 03:28 PM
Yeah, parts are only $60 from everywhere but the dealer. That's a littler higher. I went through this before about a year ago when I thought a rear bearing was going out and it turned out to be something else. At that time I got estimates for the work from IAG, a trusted local shop, and the dealer. The dealer wanted something like $500 and the other two were around $300. I'm having it done at another local Subaru specialist called Andrewtech. They also said $300. However, that's EACH SIDE.

Timing belt is my next major cost. I've already got the prices and it seems the cheapest I'm going to get is $600.
F**k old vehicles.

Yamazaki
01-04-2016, 03:39 PM
@Yamazaki (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/member.php?u=1684) can answer what he's seeing for prices, but a bearing and seal kit from Subaru is in the $60-$75 range for each wheel when I did mine last year. Of course I had to spend about $100 getting the tool to do them from Harbor Freight too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

1) I'm not using Harbor Freight anymore. I've broken too many of their tools (only two, but that's too many).
2) With all of the other rusted things that I've encountered (a 20ton press couldn't release the axle and ball joint, c'mon!), I'd rather a shop deal with it.
3) This had to be done today. No time for extended delays since it has to be driven this afternoon.

I admire the guys who do their own work, but it's somewhat frustrating when they tell me (yes, Robin, I'm looking at you) that it's "easy" and I should just do it myself. I could say the same about reading the original Japanese documents on these cars. Or importing an S401. If it were truly so easy, then everybody could (and would) do it.

98legwag
01-04-2016, 04:02 PM
I hear Andrewtech does good work. They are about 10 mins from my house too. TurboXS is right there too.

Hinyo
01-04-2016, 05:34 PM
Thanks for the kind words.
And it turns out that not only is the front driver side wheel bearing totally shot, the passenger front side is also going. I'm having both replaced today with an alignment afterwards. It also is overdue for a timing belt replacement (but I already knew that).

This is why I don't like older vehicles. The upkeep costs get to be astronomical.

If you want to I can do the timing belt with you.....

Dead91silvia
01-05-2016, 12:52 PM
1) I'm not using Harbor Freight anymore. I've broken too many of their tools (only two, but that's too many).
2) With all of the other rusted things that I've encountered (a 20ton press couldn't release the axle and ball joint, c'mon!), I'd rather a shop deal with it.
3) This had to be done today. No time for extended delays since it has to be driven this afternoon.

I admire the guys who do their own work, but it's somewhat frustrating when they tell me (yes, Robin, I'm looking at you) that it's "easy" and I should just do it myself. I could say the same about reading the original Japanese documents on these cars. Or importing an S401. If it were truly so easy, then everybody could (and would) do it.

The part that is comical to me is how many tell me "move out here, you will have tons of work!". Yeah, that rust is a big deal for me. We dont deal with that bull shit at all over here. If we do, it's cars that didnt come from here. So, Yamazaki, when I say things are easy to do, it's from working on cars in pretty much a rust free area and also doing it everyday. I do sometimes forget that some people dont do it as much as me or others, but on the east coast it sucks. My girl just got a new to her 04 Impreza wagon and we had looked at a good number of cars before finding this one. The last 2 before had so much rust (both at the same dealer that get cars from the east) there was not a chance in hell she was going to get either one of them.

As for HB tools, there are only certain tools I will get from them. Hand tools? Not on your life, but heavy duty tools yes, most have done me well for the price. I also know whats it's like to have a froze axle in a hub... Actually happens a lot here with the older Subaru's. I've had to replace hubs in some cases. But yes, quality tools are a must. At minimum Craftsmen. I have a mix of Those and Snap-on with a few Mac in the mix. Well worth the money.

All that being said, I'm proud of the work the Yamazaki has done and the things learned over the years. I truly am. Learning has been fast, even with the difficulties. The apprentice has done well. ;)

Hinyo
03-27-2016, 09:10 AM
Just did some lighting upgrades!

Cant wait to finish it up!

Yamazaki
03-28-2016, 10:43 AM
Just did some lighting upgrades!

Cant wait to finish it up!

Yes indeed. HID projectors and shut of DRLs. LOVE the new light output!
However, I still have the same issue with the radio/lights as before. I was hoping in the back of my mind that this would somehow fix it.

I'll post pictures within a couple days or so.

Yamazaki
03-28-2016, 09:11 PM
Here are pictures of the (semi) recent upgrades:

WRX suspension height:
1311

The rear spoiler:
1312

The center console w/Celcius temp and cupholder:
1313

The projector headlights:
1314

Yamazaki
05-31-2016, 07:57 PM
Found my twin (kinda)!
1467

1468

1469 1470 1471

Reason
05-31-2016, 10:44 PM
I like what you have done so far.

Dead91silvia
06-01-2016, 12:28 PM
Hey, were is the post about doing the brakes?! :P

Yamazaki
06-02-2016, 04:09 PM
Hey, were is the post about doing the brakes?! :P

Yeah.... there's nothing really to write. The fronts are still so bad that the whole car shakes when I come to a stop, and because the bleeder line was broken and we didn't bleed all of the air out, the brakes don't engage as well as they should.

My plan is to get new brake lines all around and rebuild the fronts properly (taking to the nearby DIY shop, where they have all the tools).

Muse
06-02-2016, 09:45 PM
Is that the shop we did the S401 tires at? Because I want that shop where I can use it.

Dead91silvia
06-03-2016, 12:50 PM
Yeah.... there's nothing really to write. The fronts are still so bad that the whole car shakes when I come to a stop, and because the bleeder line was broken and we didn't bleed all of the air out, the brakes don't engage as well as they should.

My plan is to get new brake lines all around and rebuild the fronts properly (taking to the nearby DIY shop, where they have all the tools).

You might be able to repair the rear brake bleeder there also... Wish I could have had that fixed for ya.

98legwag
08-04-2017, 08:42 AM
Pretty sure I saw this beast yesterday evening when I was heading to my friend's place near the ice rink.

Pitman
10-03-2017, 05:50 AM
Still running good on the sti ecu?

This has me wanting to swap the vf48 in mine and just run a sti map or ecu.

You only have a uppipe, sti tmic, vf48 and a dp?