View Full Version : EJ25D Help
LeggyxPower
08-20-2015, 12:45 PM
I am in need of some help in some diagnosis
Car: 1998 Legacy GT EJ25D
182,000km
Head gaskets never changed
Story:
Driving along for 40 minutes on the highway, I come to a slow down and my temp starts spiking. start moving and it goes back down. On the drive home not an issue. 2 days later no issues. Take a 30 minute drive and reservoir is getting full and some little bubbles here and there(nothing like what i've seen in videos), could just be coolant boiling?
My oil is still golden and my coolant isn't murky.
I changed all fluids in my car about 10,000km ago including coolant(i didn't put in any conditioner)
5 day laster and my coolant and oil still look fine.And the car has had stead temps since. SO I decided to change my rad cap since i noticed there was not pressure in the system(could remove rad cap when system is hot easily, and soft upper rad hose)
I am not burning any white smoke at all nor does it smell sweet, i don't smell any exhaust gases in my reservoir. Could this just have been a failed rad cap and possible air in my cooling system?
My next step was to get a block tester.
Help :(
Dead91silvia
08-21-2015, 12:00 AM
Sounds like you have done a little looks in to it already and thats good.
Going off of the miles/KM's, the HG's should still be ok, as long as it didnt get super hot. It's about 111k miles, so they should still be good.
A few things to look at and inspect:
-Radiator
-upper and lower radiator hoses
-All other cooling lines
-water pump
-T-stat
-headgaskets
Look for leaks as a start, it could be something as simple as a bad hose. However, it could have popped a HG if it did get hot enough. Also, have you had a water pump and T-belt done yet? If not, it might be worth looking into.
Also, not all headgaskets that pop with have water/oil mix, or blow steam. The HG's on my car a few years ago would just run warm at a stop light, but cool when moving. Not all HG's act the same. ;)
LeggyxPower
08-21-2015, 07:27 AM
Thanks for the reply. Supposedly the timing belt and water pump were done at 120,000km(70,000miles). The car didn't get super hot it was about 3/4 of the gauge to H then I noticed and the second I started to move it shot right back down.
will post videos soon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH0m4UIr37s
LeggyxPower
08-21-2015, 08:16 AM
These videos were shot after each other
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=St7OYTadq14
Dead91silvia
08-21-2015, 10:29 AM
Is it still over heating or no?
LeggyxPower
08-21-2015, 10:30 AM
Not since, only the reservoir starts to fill still and bubbles like the video that is it
LeggyxPower
08-22-2015, 12:18 AM
I decided to burp the system tons of bubbles came out until it stopped which indicated no head gasket issue. No oil or exhaust on rad cap which confirms it was just air in the system
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Dead91silvia
08-22-2015, 02:28 AM
They can be a little bit of a pain to burp, but sometimes thats all it needs.
LeggyxPower
08-23-2015, 04:53 PM
So unfortunately I drove for 3 hours total over 2 days on the highway and it was perfect...I took a short 30 minutes trip and the temp started to raise and I had to pull over....starting to really get down..next I'll change the thermostat and see how that goes
OBiOne
10-02-2015, 05:24 PM
I'd test the thermostat before you change it. If it comes out good, chances are it's bye bye gaskets. 111000 is not too early for them to pop.
Strykr
10-05-2015, 11:38 AM
Make sure you check every line and seal related to rad, heatercore and etc. I just finished replacing a bunch of stuff on my 99 LGT @110000km just to find out the water pipe on the engine had a leak at the o-ring where the heater core line attaches. Feel like such an idiot for replacing all those parts and all the stress I've had with this issue to overlook such a small/cheap fix.
Jack the front of the car up as high as you can, take radiator cap off, start the car, and let it get to idle temp, and start cycling fans. Turn the heater on full blast, and let it sit while cycling fans, constantly topping up. Most subaru motors are harder to bleed than other cars, because of the way the system is designed. Generally, parking on a hill, or jacking the front up as high as you can does the trick.
Did you have any waterfall sounds coming from behind the dash?
Strykr
12-24-2015, 09:28 AM
Jack the front of the car up as high as you can, take radiator cap off, start the car, and let it get to idle temp, and start cycling fans. Turn the heater on full blast, and let it sit while cycling fans, constantly topping up. Most subaru motors are harder to bleed than other cars, because of the way the system is designed. Generally, parking on a hill, or jacking the front up as high as you can does the trick.
Did you have any waterfall sounds coming from behind the dash?
I do the same trick, but I only jack up the driver side front as the rad funnel issupposed to be the highest point when bleeding so that all the bubble come out. Jacking both sides evens out the rad too much that there's a chance of trapping it IF your rad has a slight build up. I personally use a ramp though as a jack stand isn't too well supported on its own on an angle.
LeggyxPower
12-24-2015, 09:45 AM
I guess I'll update this thread lol. I had changed my head gaskets awhile back and it had solved everything. As for bleeding the cooling system it was easy once I bought one of those coolant funnels.
I jacked up the front of the car,unscrewed the bleeder screw and filled the rad until coolant came out of it.Then filled the funnel with coolant and started the engine and let the rad fans cycles 2-3 times. And that seemed to do the trick just fine.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.