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View Full Version : Which Clutch to Choose?



jmgtp
08-06-2006, 11:39 AM
Edit: forgot to mention some relevant info!
-2001 Legacy GT
-5mt (no brainer in a clutch thread, right!)
-50k miles
-drivetrain is 100% stock right down to a paper air filter (with exception of STI trans mount)

I'd hate to replace a clutch that barely has 50k miles on it but I've had about all I can take of the Subaru clutch shudder. It seems to come and go as it pleases and is certainly more noticeable in the morning when it is a bit cooler out. May be a good time to replace the engine mounts with STI mounts (already replaced trans mount with STI).

That said, are the replacement OEM clutchs from Subaru still vunerable to the shudder? I'm trying to find a clutch of OEM quality/durability but don't want to risk this shudder ever coming back. The 166hp Subaru gave me from the factory is plenty and I don't plan on any power upgrades so I don't require a clutch that will hold more power.

I'm also strongly considering purchasing/installing a PDM sleeve. For ~$90 it seems worth the insurance.

I imagine an OEM Subaru clutch kit would be around $200? Am I way off here? But I fear that the shudder may return with an OEM clutch. If there is an updated clutch from Subaru that has eliminated the shudder how can I be sure that is what I will get and not a new old stock OEM clutch that may develop the shudder?

To sum up:
Looking for reccomendations on a clutch with the following attributes:

-well known for quality/durability (ie not a cheapie AutoZone clutch)
-close to stock pedal effort/does not need to hold any more power than stock
-availability of just pressure plate & clutch disc, cheaper than kit?? (since I may be purchasing the PDM sleeve/TO bearing)
-tried and true -> no shudder!
-hopefully won't break the bank

Of course all labor would be done by yours truely. I've replaced clutches before, never on an AWD vehicle but I'm not a newb with a wrench. Is there an online source for torque specs and such? Or perhaps a sticky somewhere with the process outlined? Planning on doing the replacement mid to late September.

Thanks,
John

llaprad1
08-06-2006, 12:21 PM
I heard that the shudder may be caused by a badly worn throw-out bearing shaft, and the fix is a sleeve that goes over it.

I haven't looked into it, though.

jmgtp
08-06-2006, 12:54 PM
I heard that the shudder may be caused by a badly worn throw-out bearing shaft, and the fix is a sleeve that goes over it.

I haven't looked into it, though.

Yup, Hence the PDM sleeve.
https://secure.wholebraintech.com/tarma ... index.html (https://secure.wholebraintech.com/tarmac-usa/flash/index.html)
(search: SLEEVE)
Either the price went up or I remembered wrong... $125 now!

Even if this is the problem, no point in pulling the whole assembly apart and not replacing the clutch while you're in there.

Plays_with_Toys
08-06-2006, 02:47 PM
I plan on purchasing an exedy clutch. Seems alot of people on the NASIOC forums like them in their imprezas. I had an ACT clutch on my toyota and it held real nice as well.

The exedy units go for about $200 on ebay and I imagine ACT's are in the same range. A genuine subaru clutch from the dealer would probably cost a fair bit. ($400?)

jmgtp
08-06-2006, 04:11 PM
Is it me, or does the search function on nasioc really suck at its job?

Have a link to any discussion on the exedy clutch for us normally aspirated's?

I took a quick look at ebay and they exedy's do seem right in the $200 range.

All in all looks like it should cost me around ~$350 for clutch kit, PDM sleeve and to have the flywheel resurfaced. Not too bad.

I may be overthinking the situation, for a stock application it may turn out a clutch is a clutch is a clutch. Problem is I don't want to break the bank but I also don't want to get low quality components that don't last. Generally, those two don't go together... but if the Exedy turns out to be a decent clutch then I think I'll be able to satisfy my quality/low dollar desire.

sheepdog
08-06-2006, 05:08 PM
Go with a clutch with a stage 1 ish pressure plate. Whether Stage 1 or stage 1+ (you get the stage 2 contact surface), you'll notice a difference but driveability won't be significantly different. I have a stage 1+ in my daily driver accord, and I love it.

As a side note, the subarus from ECB have had problems with ACT clutches on multiple occasions. I don't know about other brands or NA motors, but we've had them shudder terribly, wear out in 5k miles, and just plain desintegrate. I'll be avoiding them like the plague in my GC8.

EXP1787
08-07-2006, 04:40 PM
I just wanted to say that when I ordered the PDM sleeve five or six or seven months ago, it was $125. It was a great piece. Completely took care of the VISIBLY worn ridges on the trans case shaft. As for the clutch, when we had mine apart, I just installed a stock replacement, as the Legacy was just a daily driver that didn't see too much abuse.

jmgtp
08-07-2006, 05:52 PM
How much did you get the stock replacement clutch for? My Leg is also the daily driver that doesn't see much labor other than the 12 miles to and from work. Is the clutch you bought an OEM Subaru clutch or a stock equivalent?

At this point the 'sleeve' is a definite on my list, may even go ahead and place my order tonight. That is if a can make my mind up between the Tranquil sleeve or PDM sleeve! They are priced the same and in all reality are likely nearly identical. Trying to do a little more research before I buy to see if either has better fitment or quality issues. I never even heard of the Tranquil sleeve until yesterday, PDM I believe is the bigger name here.

The Exedy clutch seems like a possibility as well and very much in my price range on eBay. However, being eBay my fear is that I may end up with a cheap knockoff clutch assembly. Exedy actually has a comparison on their site to distinguish a knockoff from the real deal: http://exedyusa.com/technical/GENUINE%2 ... UIDE.shtml (http://exedyusa.com/technical/GENUINE%20PARTS%20GUIDE.shtml)

Plays_with_Toys
08-07-2006, 07:48 PM
Hmm... yeah, I am more worried about ordering on ebay because of my cable clutch. I haven't established if it in fact requires a different clutch than hydraulic system'ed cars.

EXP1787
08-07-2006, 08:11 PM
How much did you get the stock replacement clutch for? My Leg is also the daily driver that doesn't see much labor other than the 12 miles to and from work. Is the clutch you bought an OEM Subaru clutch or a stock equivalent?
I got my stock equivalent clutch kit from a local place who builds clutches for race cars, but also sells some stock replacements. I paid $100 for the kit.

BAC5.2
08-13-2006, 01:51 AM
Go with a clutch with a stage 1 ish pressure plate. Whether Stage 1 or stage 1+ (you get the stage 2 contact surface), you'll notice a difference but driveability won't be significantly different. I have a stage 1+ in my daily driver accord, and I love it.

As a side note, the subarus from ECB have had problems with ACT clutches on multiple occasions. I don't know about other brands or NA motors, but we've had them shudder terribly, wear out in 5k miles, and just plain desintegrate. I'll be avoiding them like the plague in my GC8.

We have had problems with ACT clutches at our shop too. We used to be an ACT distributor.... not anymore. Exedy is the only way. They make the OEM clutches, and they do a good job.

If you don't resurface the flywheel, you WILL have shudder problems. Sometimes we don't resurface flywheels, but only when we are replacing a clutch before it starts shuddering.

Daily driver, stick with an Exedy OEM clutch. For the push style OE clutch, expect to pay in the $200 range.

BAC5.2
08-13-2006, 10:03 AM
Oh yea! I have an Exedy OEM clutch in my Forester. No shudder. Period.

jmgtp
08-13-2006, 01:27 PM
I'm pretty set on an Exedy. I already have a PDM sleeve on the way. I'm fearful on where to buy an Exedy though. The eBay ones are very cheaply priced BUT I'm scared of getting a non authentic Exedy. I'll definetly be getting the flywheel resurfaced as well, whats the point if doing it not doing it right!

GrassyKnoll
08-13-2006, 01:40 PM
I loved my SPEC Stage 2 clutch. Drove very smooth and zero shudder. Price was good too.... however I am now having problems with it (see the other thread entitled WHAT THE HELL) I havn't heard of this happening to other people though... SPEC seems to work well for most.

BAC5.2
08-13-2006, 04:25 PM
SPEC never works well. We've had more problems with those clutches than with any other clutch we have ever used.

GrassyKnoll
08-13-2006, 04:33 PM
SPEC never works well. We've had more problems with those clutches than with any other clutch we have ever used.

good to know. DONT GET SPEC! haha

BAC5.2
08-13-2006, 06:46 PM
You live and you learn. I've made lots of parts purchase mistakes. Don't feel too bad about it.

jmgtp
08-17-2006, 03:41 PM
After much Googling for a non-eBay Exedy source with reasonable pricing I found this:

http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewire/ ... =000464648 (http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewire/baseline/quote.jsp?partner=drivewire&year=2001&product=I2030-107513&application=000464648)

$236 + free shipping isn't a bad deal at all I think. I don't want to go eBay because theres too much risk in purchasing an Exedy knockoff.

Has anyone ever dealt with drivewire.com before? Experiences?

Can anyone verify that the clutch listed above is in fact the correct one for an '01 GT application?

The PDM sleeve is on the way and I'd like to order the clutch as I plan on replacing it around this time next month over a weekend - not my first time doing a clutch (although it is the 1st for me on an AWD) I think a weekend should be enough time.

Thanks!

driftsub
08-18-2006, 01:15 AM
That looks to be the right one. The clutch is easy, if you are mecanically handy it shouldnt be that hard at all.
Make sure you have a punch long enough to drive out the roll pins on the front axle shafts though, or a really long 10mm (head size) bolt can work in a pinch too.


-driftsub

jmgtp
08-18-2006, 10:52 AM
I ended up buying that clutch, though at a different site: Autowharehouse.

I've done clutches before and just about anything else on a car - I'm confident I can do it without a problem. The Subaru is my daily driver though so I plan on start to finish in 1 weekend.

Anyone have a source for all the torque specs?
I could buy a Haynes manual for that sort of thing but I doubt they are as accurate on their numbers as say a factory service manual.