Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch Pedal

[ooberdoob]

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R
DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:
1995-2002MY Legacy;
1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
All models have Manual Transmission.

SUBJECT:
Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised)

INTRODUCTION

In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal
not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal
feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the
following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect
certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system
under certain weather conditions.

PROCEDURE

To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that
match your vehicle using the following procedure:

For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this
procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the
clutch pipe and bracket.

3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new
parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N
114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be
replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening
torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.
lbs.

4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

5) Add brake fluid.

6) Bleed the air from the system.

7) Install the intake chamber.

8) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.



For Turbo models

1) Remove the intercooler.

2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the
clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be
removed.

3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in
the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the
connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones
when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37
+/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs.

4) Add brake fluid.

5) Bleed the air from the system.

6) Install the intercooler.

7) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/22018343590.gif (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/22018343590.gif&s=f10)

b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/22018350793.gif (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/22018350793.gif&s=f10)


thanks for the sticky, shane!

[JPaul99GT]

mine did this about 3 months ago... a local transmission shop replaced both hydraulic cylinders for 300 bucks.... problem went away.

did i get jacked?

[ooberdoob]

maybe maybe not...

everyone i've talked to.... well it's been split 50/50 on which it is.

so i have both. i'm gonna change the slave first, as it's the cheapest and most logically the one.

[subieyacht]

welp, guess i know what wrong now. hahaha, crap :-(

[Sarra]

I had this problem in my BE, but only when driving offroad for long periods of time (IE, going 10-20 mph in first or second gears). The clutch pedal would not return all the way, then pop back up making an annoying sound. If I kept driving in those conditions, the pedal would not return at all. If I started driving using third, fourth, or fifth gears and higher speeds, the problem would resolve itself.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Mine squeaks like it's starting to stick...good post David.

[JMoney]

I got a new slave cylinder a few months ago and my clutch has never worked better. $90 bucks from the dealer. Good fix.

[warrior]

This was a very easy install, though I did get a little worried about bleeding it because the pedal would drop to the floor so fast. I read in the FSM that you should hold the pedal and let it drop slowly to bleed it properly.

A great improvement in clutch feel would be the stainless steel braided clutch hose that can be bought from www.techna-fit.com (http://www.techna-fit.com) for about $20. I have a BD and used part number SUBC-110.

[Navig8r]

I had this problem in my BE, but only when driving offroad for long periods of time (IE, going 10-20 mph in first or second gears). The clutch pedal would not return all the way, then pop back up making an annoying sound. If I kept driving in those conditions, the pedal would not return at all. If I started driving using third, fourth, or fifth gears and higher speeds, the problem would resolve itself.

I have experienced EXACTLY the same thing... except speed wasnt the same... I was using rimarily 2nd and 3rd gear, driving hard, dirt roads... I thought temp. might be to blame.... goes away after some long, higher spped runs, as mentioned.

[caoutback]

Had my clutch medal staying on the floor after shifting in high rpms (4500+) or long drives. Replaced the clutch slave with OEM and line with Techna fit Braided Stainless and now my pedal is very "light". Granted I upgraded to a Stage 1 Clutch but my pedal depresses too easy :mad: . Oh well. Was told I should do my Master next so when time allows I'll do that next.

[98OBW]

Necro bump!

I had this problem on a long 7-hour drive to NY and it got progressively worse over the time I was there, and when I returned home. I replaced the master cyl, slave cyl, hose, and bled it with no difference. my trans has also developed the "Subaru squeal" so I need to do a snout kit and clutch job soon, although I don't think that would fix this problem.

[ruralmailcarrier]

We have replaced the slave first, then the master. Had these bled professionally. Still have same problem with clutch pedal. :smt026

[98OBW]

Same here, I wish I knew about the braided line before I got the OEM one.

[subyclutchfromhell]

I have a 1999 Legacy Outback wagon, just spent $2000 in parts, r&r: head gaskets, timing belt kit, plugs, wires, clutch, flywheel, a few other parts. The clutch will not gravity bleed. I'm not a fan of just throwing parts at things, so tested the system, found slave cylinder was bad, replaced, still will not gravity bleed. Called a Subaru dealership...long story short, waste of time. Replaced slave cylinder hose (from firewall to slave) and still nothing, attempt to bleed it and nothing comes out, pedal hits the floor, have to manually pull it back up. I've turned my share of wrenches, and my friend who helped me on this job is a master technician, and he's never seen anything like this either. One thing that does not make any sense to me is why the bleeder is below where the fluid comes into the slave cylinder, I mean how do you gravity bleed a clutch when the placement is backwards from what works? Same design from 1995-2005, seriously, any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and every thing is clear, will allow fluid through, totally stumped here.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Just unbolt it and hold it higher. It's not too hard.

Most people recommend bench bleeding the clutch systems, its much easier.

[98OBW]

My problem with this issue went away after replacing the clutch and installing the snout kit.

[subyclutchfromhell]

Tried bench bleeding the slave cylinder, that didn't help either, We tried to bleed the clutch for hours, and not much would come out of the bleeder. The master cyl. only went down about half an inch, while my friend was operating the bleeder, I was operating the clutch pedal by hand. The really strange part is that while attempting to bleed it (all the pumping) nothing would change much at all. There would be about an inch of resistance just off of the floor, then after bleeding that little bit and leaving the bleeder closed the pedal would start to make it past the detint in the middle of the pedal range after about five manual pumps by hand. All of the other work done to the car is awesome, no leaks, no engine lights nothing, just the stupid clutch issue. I bought the most expensive aftermarket slave cyl. now I'm wondering if the new one from Subaru could actually be any different, after looking at them both they sure appear to be identical.

[subyclutchfromhell]

Maybe next time I will settle for a wussy automatic. At least when those act up its usually just a sensor.

[98OBW]

Automatics suck. And they're not a 50/50 AWD bias

[Wiscon_Mark]

Maybe next time I will settle for a wussy automatic. At least when those act up its usually just a sensor.

Not true. They frequently suffer from Torque bind and fried DutyC Solenoids. Both expensive problems to fix if not caught early (as with all auto transmission issues).


Automatics suck. And they're not a 50/50 AWD bias

Not entirely true. Autos are capable of 50/50 but don't default to it unless locked in D1 or D2. They can swing the power to the back wheels when needed.

I will agree with you about not liking a reactive AWD system. Give me power evenly where its needed all the time so it's more predictable.

[subyclutchfromhell]

Couldn't agree with you more as far as manual vs. automatic. It would be awesome if Subaru would design a new slave cylinder where the bleeder was higher than the fluid intake, then it might actually bleed. Now my speedometer quit working, having a real blast with my first Subaru... getting pretty frustrated with it, just seems to need one thing after another. Maybe Ken Block has an old Suby sitting around up for grabs.