Air Conditioner Acting strange After A Dealer Visit For A Charge...

[Zangado1]

I have a 95 2.2 wagon. Got my A/C charged/serviced a month ago at the Subie dealer ($120) so I started using it for the first time this past week. Before I got it charged it was working fine just was blowing cool air and not cold air. Now after the visit the A/C is clicking under the hood behind the passenger side firewall like some type of a relay or sending unit sound occurs. It is also making that sound when im stopped at an idle it clicks on and off it sounds like the idle of the car is changing and the A/C is surging cold air while the compressor is turning on and off. It is not a rapid on and off but a short delay between clicks. Or when im under load it clicks and you can tell it's turning on and off the compressor because the car is noticeably losing power with the A/C on. It also is surging cold air on and off while that is happening. I know the compressor is working but this sounds like a thermostat sending unit or relay issue. Any ideas? Thanks...

[rkrenicki]

The high/low pressure switch should be over around there, on top of the receiver/drier. It could be high (overfilled) or low (underfilled) pressure, or possibly a defective switch?

Did you try it at all between them working on it and now?

[Zangado1]

The high/low pressure switch should be over around there, on top of the receiver/drier. It could be high (overfilled) or low (underfilled) pressure, or possibly a defective switch?

Did you try it at all between them working on it and now?
No I have not touched anything because I don't know anything about it. I just don't want to return to them and hear them bullshit me into saying that I need a new compressor or something because the age of the car. I would like to try and sniff around under the hood myself but as I said im not sure about the A/C system.

[amusa]

Sounds like the clutch on the compressor kicking off and on. It protects the compressor from low freon or to much high pressure. I would stick a die in there to see if you have a leak somewhere first. If no leak then check your pressure switch.

[Zangado1]

Sounds like the clutch on the compressor kicking off and on. It protects the compressor from low freon or to much high pressure. I would stick a die in there to see if you have a leak somewhere first. If no leak then check your pressure switch.

Thanks. I know what it sounds like when the compressor is kicking on and off because you can feel the drop in idle and power in the car at idle and under load. It is also making cold air come through the system when it is on. When off there is just cool or humid air coming through. It to me sounds like there is a sending unit or a thermostat or some type of relay that is near the passengers side firewall that is making a noticeably louder clicking and controlling the compressor not to function properly enough to stay on and do it's job to make cold air come through the system consistently. Where is the pressure switch located under the hood. Near the firewall where im hearing the clicking?

[ouch1011]

So, the ac was working fine before they worked on it, but now it cycles on and off, doesn't cool as well, and seems to drag down the engine more when it cycles on? It's hard to know what is going on without seeing the pressure in both sides of the system, but my initial suspicion is that the system is overcharged. On the receipt that they gave you, does it list the quantity of refrigerant they charged you for? I think that Gen of Legacy uses something like 22oz of refrigerant. The amount they billed isn't necessarily the amount the mechanic used, but if they billed you for an amount that is significantly different from what is supposed to be in there, then that gives you a pretty good idea of where to start.

[Zangado1]

So, the ac was working fine before they worked on it, but now it cycles on and off, doesn't cool as well, and seems to drag down the engine more when it cycles on? It's hard to know what is going on without seeing the pressure in both sides of the system, but my initial suspicion is that the system is overcharged. On the receipt that they gave you, does it list the quantity of refrigerant they charged you for? I think that Gen of Legacy uses something like 22oz of refrigerant. The amount they billed isn't necessarily the amount the mechanic used, but if they billed you for an amount that is significantly different from what is supposed to be in there, then that gives you a pretty good idea of where to start.
It just has a part number and says evacuation/recharge and the part was $11.78 for the refrigerant. No amount that was used is listed.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I would take it back - they screwed something up. Either under or over filling the system is most likely.

[Zangado1]

I would take it back - they screwed something up. Either under or over filling the system is most likely.

Thanks. I have an appointment Thursday with a loaner. I am thinking the same thing that it is over full with refrigerant.

[ouch1011]

Unless they charge a ridiculously cheap price for refrigerant, they didn't do a full evacuate and recharge. Most shops charge somewhere around $1/oz, and 2nd gen legacy takes over a lb for sure. I think its like 21oz or something. Sounds like they just "topped it off." Big no-no

[Zangado1]

Unless they charge a ridiculously cheap price for refrigerant, they didn't do a full evacuate and recharge. Most shops charge somewhere around $1/oz, and 2nd gen legacy takes over a lb for sure. I think its like 21oz or something. Sounds like they just "topped it off." Big no-no

I have an update for anyone who is interested with my dealer visit to resolve my A/C issue. The Tech states as follows; "Evacuate and measured refrigerant level. level normal. test drive car to check vent temp. 42 degree vent temp at 84 degree ambient. Noted large amount of tracer dye in system with no external visible marking. Compressor cycles when temperature is reached. Normal function to prevent evaporator freeze over". So now it is working fine and they gave me a 2016 Legacy for a loaner and I was not charged for the return visit.

[ouch1011]

So they recovered whatever was in there previously, recharged it with the correct amount, and now it works fine. :-) I think that says it all.

Glad to hear it is fixed. How did you like the 2016?

[Zangado1]

So they recovered whatever was in there previously, recharged it with the correct amount, and now it works fine. :-) I think that says it all.

Glad to hear it is fixed. How did you like the 2016?

The 2016 rides really nice and would be comfortable on a long ride. Im not into the CVT trans with the paddle shifters because you really cant tach it out and release the boxer's power like you can with a manual. It's like a gimmick the paddle shifter idea in a car like that in my opinion. You can barely hear the engine either. I would like to drive one with a manual because that's what I am used to in both of my Subies. I was so bored with it in an automatic. Maybe I would be less interested in the entertainment system and gadgets it had like the Sirius radio and the App screens if it was a manual. All and all it was more refined and quiet and made me feel like I was not in a Subaru. I appreciate the older models that seem a little more raw and have less accoutrements.

[Wiscon_Mark]

I can go to redline on my CVT in manual mode and it really kicks when you shift into second gear - the one thing I've noticed is that the transmission has to be fully warmed up for the "gears" to be responsive - if the transmission is cold, it'll still make it a bit more "automatic" and won't shift as hard or let you have as much control - this is likely to protect the trans.

The other thing about the CVT is that its gearing is a LOT taller than the old 5MTs and even taller than the 6MT because it's fuel economy oriented - that makes it slower off the line.

The CVT certainly isn't as exciting as a manual, but I still maintain it's far superior to the old 4EAT.

[Zangado1]

I can go to redline on my CVT in manual mode and it really kicks when you shift into second gear - the one thing I've noticed is that the transmission has to be fully warmed up for the "gears" to be responsive - if the transmission is cold, it'll still make it a bit more "automatic" and won't shift as hard or let you have as much control - this is likely to protect the trans.

The other thing about the CVT is that its gearing is a LOT taller than the old 5MTs and even taller than the 6MT because it's fuel economy oriented - that makes it slower off the line.

The CVT certainly isn't as exciting as a manual, but I still maintain it's far superior to the old 4EAT.
I would agree that the gears seem to be taller than any other older Subaru automatic or manuals that I have ever driven for sure. They have definitely gone in the right direction in making a better economical and performing automatic trans in their vehicles.