XRAYSPECS - 2002 - BE - L - Upgrade Everything

[xrayspecs]

El Chupacabra, X-Ray's 2002 L Sedan 5MT

WARNING PIC HEAVY!!!!!!

Update, starting on page 2 , got a new chassis, in the interest of preserving the thread not making anymore changes here. Latest parts list update of installed parts are about halfway down page 3, current build parts list here (https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?20230-XRAYSPECS-2002-BE-L-Upgrade-Everything&p=289042&viewfull=1#post289042)

So, way long time lurker and Subaru owner, another forum member talked me into actually sitting down and starting a build log for my Legacy. so this will be a big slug for all thats gone on with the car since I got it.

I have had my 02 L sedan since early 2014, got it in the below condition, it was a bit rough around the edges but the base was solid and didn't have any rot. Most important though was it was a Manual!!!!! it's been a slow build over the last few years and hope to keep it going. Plus had a Rebuild short block in it

EDIT, TLDR build sheet on my Legacy as of 10/2/2020

This will be a post dump to start to get everything up to date.

I keep a pretty detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything into a list here and the milage it was installed at:


Chassis/Suspension:
Timken Rear unit bearings (p/n 512183 ) replaced at 186K
Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) 192k
Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) 192k
Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404 ) 192k
Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) 192K
Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) 192k
Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) 192k
OEM alignment specs at 193k
Cusco Racing front strut tower brace (p/n 680 540 A) 193k
Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A )193k
Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) at 206k
Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) at 206k
SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) at 206k
Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) at 206k
Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) at 215k
Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) at 215k
SKP new equipment power steering pump (p/n sk215254 ) at 215k
Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) at 215k
Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) at 215k
Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) at 215k
Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) at 215k
Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776 ) at 215k
Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) at 215k
Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) at 215k
Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) at 215k
Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) at 215k
Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) at 215k
Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) at 215k
Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) at 215k
Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) at 215k
Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) at 215k
Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) at 215k
ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) at 215K
Subaru OEM, driver side rear lower shock bolt and nut (p/n 20550AA010 , 90003335056 , & 901000177 ) at 215K
Koni Yellows assembly part numbers below all installed at 215K:

Front Struts.
Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT
OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts.
Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100
Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250
Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450
Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147.


Rear Shocks
Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1
Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400

Subaru of America Bolt Flange shock rear lower (p/n 901000177 ) at 215K
Subaru of America Washer shock rear lower (p/n 900335056 ) at 215k
Subaru of America Nut shock rear lower (p/n 20550AA010 ) at 215k


Engine:
Interstate Green Top MT-35. At 160k then again at 192.5k
Rebuilt heads and short block at 160k
NGK spark plugs (p/n 6953 ) at 169k
Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) at 169k
PCV Valve replaced with OEM unit (p/n 1181080W00 ) 173k
PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS 173k
OEM Idle Air Control Valve (p/n 22650AA192, INTERMOTOR AC519 ) 173k
Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) 174k
OEM Bosch Upstream O2 Sensor (p/n 17018 ) 174k
OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) 179k
WIX Air filter (p/n 42728 ) 179k
Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header with Felpro MLM exhaust manifold gasket (p/n MS95088 ) and OEM steel gasket at cat (p/n 224 49010 333 ) 190k
TRANS WAS REPLACED AT 192,533 SO SOME PARTS HAD TO BE REPLACED
NTK downstream O2 sensor (p/n 24598 ) 192.5k
Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) 192.5k
STP Air filter replacement (p/n SA9113 ) at 193k
IMC exhaust flange gasket (p/n 224 4901 333 ) at 193k
Felpro exhaust manifold gasket (p/n MS95088 ) at 193k
Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) at 193k
Fel-Pro exhaust gasket, (p/n 9827 ) at 193K
Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) at 196.5K
After accident replaced the following parts:
Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) at 197.9k
Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) 197.9k
Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) all replaced at 197.9K
NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) at 205.7K
Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) at 205.8K

Drivetrain:
Front CV axles, chinese remans Suretrak (p/n SB-8011 ) at 192k
JDM Impreza 5MT transmission (p/n 71-TY754VU2AA ) (from a 98-99) with 3.90 FD, installed at 192.5K
Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) 192.5k
Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk 192.5k
Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings 192.5 k
Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings 192.5k
Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) Installed at 196.5
Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urathane (p/n 9563 ) at 215k

Brakes:
Duralast oem replacements square at 188k
LPS turned rotors at 188k
Subaru OEM park brake cables (p/n 26051AE07A (LH), 26051AE06A (RH)) at 215k


Interior:
LED replacement dome light bulb installed at 165k
OEM WIX cabin filters replaced (p/n 72880AE080 ) at 179k
Driver's side exterior handle latch rod retaining clip replaced (oem unit) at 188k
Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) at 190k
Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) at 193k
Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan at 195k
OEM fog light switch (p/n 1S7942 ) at 195K
Standard Relay for fogs (p/n RY612 ) at 195K
Wink 5 panel mirror. (p/n) at 206K

Exterior:
LED bulbs, brake, front and rear turn signal, reverse, license plate, and front running lights installed at 165k
DRL’s disabled from use at 179k
Exterior stripped to metal and repainted in OEM paint code (83N, Subaru Timberline Green Mica Pearl Metallic) base coated in two part Diamont sealer and sprayed in Matrix Systems base-coat clear coat 193k
Mirrors and grill painted SEM Trim black (p/n 39143 ) at 194k
Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Supertones at 194k
JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, for fenders, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails at 215k
UNK Front fender lines (p/n SU1248104 , SU1249104 ) at 215k

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei RPF1 17x8 5x100 +45. Put on at 197.5k
235/45R17 Continental ExtremeContact DW tires (these rub on full bump in the front, will probably roll the fenders to get rid of that.)


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/37599835524_ea72d9840a_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyZ9h)2014-03-30 12.43.12 (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyZ9h)

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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/37599835254_7c9252e078_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyZ4C)2014-03-30 12.43.31 (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyZ4C)

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Previous owner at some point in its life it was resprayed on the top coat and had a terrible case of lacquer cracking everywhere but the jams and trunk underside.

first thing done was a oil change, air filter and fluids check.

you can see the massive lacquer cracking in the bottom of this picture. also +5 hp for stickers.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24445067928_2ddcd458d1_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Df8n3q)2014-04-12 18.04.18 (https://flic.kr/p/Df8n3q)

It ran good for the next 10,000 miles then the ignition system and the random miss it started up, as you've gotta have fuel, spark and air to run and i had plenty of fuel pressure per the OBD scanner and id put a good filter in that it had to be the spark plugs. New spark plugs wires on the way!
From the local go fast parts store, (not being sarcastic Covina still has a small mom&pops parts store) i got new oem plugs, plug wires and a Felpro valve cover gaskets. I figured if the motor was freshly rebuilt and had reached its 5k break-in point the valves better be lashed. I get it apart and wouldnt you know it the plugs are cracked.... hmmm not so sure on that rebuid quality, they were cracked after what i was told was only 6k on the engine. got the thing back together and it ran like a top for two months then IACV also decided at 173k that it was over tired and working anymore so it got replaced with an oem on.
Also spent some time after chasing a vacuum leak on the PCV system and the PCV Valve sticking open. Swapped those out around this time too.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283993452_3024d4573f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2tsC)2014-10-27 08.43.38 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2tsC)

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and it ran great, and all was good till i got backed into in the market parking lot....

Had a guy back up into me, because he wasn't checking his mirrors, and wrinkle the rear drivers side quarter panel. oh well just cosmetic.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/37599761124_2fa7b8fb32_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyB2w)2015-04-13 (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyB2w)

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Also around 180k the front O2 sensor decided that it no longer wanted to be apart of the band and stopped reporting the right signals. It was CHRISPY! got replaced with a OEM Bosch unit.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283990182_2ba2e1d1ff_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2suf)2015-05-13 18.11.36 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2suf)

It also developed a HOT engine miss…. Must be the coil pack, replaced that with a new OEM unit and at the same time put a cabin filter in the dash and disable the Daytime Run light as i was tired of it prematurely burning bulbs up.

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Looks like the previous owner never bothered to put a filter in or clean the trap….vacuumed it out and put a new filter in!

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It took a bit of research as the Legacy L isnt as posted on as the GT, but i found the wiring diagrams and found that for the L’s its the Blue and Black pin in the dash harness plug that powers the relay for them. I pulled the plug apart removed the pin from the connector, coffined it in electrical tape and put it all back together and no more DRL’s

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283985562_bda934ca76_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2r7A)2015-09-19 15.58.10 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2r7A)

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About a month later the plastic keeper that holds the door handle rod in place in the Driver side door decided that it was time to go, had to pull the door apart and change the little rod keeper, which for a 2$ piece is a major pain!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/37599813854_bd1f069e20_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZhySGE)2015-09-19 14.08.59 (https://flic.kr/p/ZhySGE)

Drove the car till 187k the rear wheel bearings were toast. Did both back ones with a little help! Replaced the whole units with Timken units, and boy it was like night and day with the car.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26541907609_138e31b27b_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GrqdqH)12071094_1482691515371192_791588451_n (https://flic.kr/p/GrqdqH)
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to PT 2

[xrayspecs]

PT 2


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At 188k the brake pads started squealing, while I wanted to go with some street performance pads wasnt in the budget so replaced with like oem duracrap pads! Had the rotors turned by the LPS and drove it some more.

Picked up a Borla UEL header for the 2.5L from another forum member on here for the price of a ebay knock off. The unit was still New in box! Never been run! Sweet. Now just need a cat back and it'll really sound good! Future plans still here. I did have to change to a 2.4 Miata filter on the car with these as one of the previous owners added the sandwich oil heat exchanger that goes between the filter and the engine block, this wasn't a factory option on the L’s as far as all my research has lead me to believe. I stick to 3.5k oil intervals so not worried about its dirt holding capacity.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283938802_6c4c093f4f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2cdo)IMG_20160227_141806 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2cdo)

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While doing the header swap noticed that i had torn boots on the inner CV’s….. Using the well ive got it apart might as well do it all approach i sprung for Moog Tie-rods, Beck Arnley ball joints, inner tie-rods. Whiteline LCA bushings, inner, outer and steering rack bushings. Also replaced the Front CV’s with the LPS recommended chines remain front axles…. I held on to the green oems just in case as they didnt require a core back… Replaced them all in a day, nothing like spending a sunday on the cardboard cursing at dirty bolts.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283951252_d508b93872_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2fV3)2016-05-12 23.09.00 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2fV3)

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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283957642_414898f969_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2hPd)2016-03-25 01.09.38 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2hPd)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283954702_d1989f341f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2gWw)2016-05-12 20.34.22 (https://flic.kr/p/21k2gWw)

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In the middle of all this had my second kid, got laid off and the plans for the car slowed down.

Had it aligned, and Boy does all new tight parts really perk these old BE’s right up. Had a lot of fun running the canyons here when i got a chance too.

We went on a trip to visit the Grandparents and introduce the new offspring and it made the trip just fine.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38315399531_00c3c3a72e_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21nNroK)2016-05-26 14.46.20 (https://flic.kr/p/21nNroK)

However when getting ready to leave there was a very loud bang and crunch. Well turns out these old 5mt’s occasionally like to spit the center diffs VC’s retaining ring out ouf its holder when they get up in mileage. And with my luck the 1:1 rear output gears decided it was a good plan to have that clip for lunch. And werew missing a few bits of teeth. After making a few calls and a lot of googling figured out that the cost of these gears and a new VC would be in the 600-800$ ballpark depending on how far down the rebuild rabbit hole i wanted to go. And it looked like at some point the transmission had water in it, the gear faces had rust spots.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26541907969_0f8203a9e7_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GrqdwV)13320120_239926926399118_291589173_n (https://flic.kr/p/GrqdwV)

I figured oh i'll just get a pick-a-part unit and new rear main and slap that in, and drive away. As i’ve done numerous times with volkswagons, fords and chevys.
Nope, joke was on me, turns out the L sedan i had was provided with a 3.90 Final drive. And short of getting a transmission and rear axle packaged together everything else was 4.44’s and 4.11’s. After a lot of calls and emails, i found a LKQ in fresno that had one 3.90 that showed it was pulled from a L, sweet, i ordered it, it ships and shows up, NOPE! The damn thing is out of a outback and has 4.44,s worst part was they dropped 80k miles off the listed miles. when i searched the vin# from the car it had been pulled from (it was listed on the pallet tag) i found a chased google page showing the car had well over 200K and had been auctioned for mechanical damage total. That took a whole week of phone calls and arguing with LKQ to get shipped back… they said they found another one but when it showed up it had a 4.44 as well. Back it went… lucky enough for me my grandparents have a large shop I was able to flat tow the car to and leave at while i searched for a new transmission.

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Ive also got my 51 Ford stored there till i have room to bring it home!.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/37599761544_fbdfdf5ec9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyB9L)IMG_20161231_161156 (https://flic.kr/p/ZhyB9L)

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In the middle of this got lucky enough to get tickets to go see the filming of the Grand Tour in Apple Valley for there Los Angles episode! Got to meet all three of the Muppets! That was a hell of an experience.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24445020228_d01a820a07_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Df87S1)14449221_530288537176558_1221163028792213504_n (https://flic.kr/p/Df87S1)

TWO jdm transmissions later… that had 4.11’s and 4.44’s i got a pulled one from a JDM 3.90 impreza from a LA importer.

It was during this time my brother name the car El Chupacabra because of it being so damn rare to find parts for and it was all ugly from the paint and dents!

Got a whole list of goodies for installation as well.
Kartboy poly shifter bushings and trans mount bushings, new oem clutch hose, downstream NGK O2 sensor, Excedy OEM clutch kit and Mishimoto magnetic oil plug.

Spent my 2017 newyears weekend paying tribute to the gods of speed and octane.

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Got it all back together, had it aligned and its been running great since.

Also upgraded from the OEM tape deck to a double din Pioneer unit i had kicking around. Its old but sounds better than the tape deck did! I might have to spend some money on upgraded components!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26541894559_7783b49133_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Grq9xH)20171110_065943 (https://flic.kr/p/Grq9xH)

Also two years later finally had the rear quarter panel pulled all of the big dents fixed. Stripped the whole car to the metal as i didn't want it to lacquer crack again. Then had it two respraided in the factory Green Metallic, dam does it look good when its been polished. Went with Matrix Systems Base Clear. Its now just a 10mph-10ft car instead of a 50-50 car! Lol. Ill have to wash it and get some good photos with my DSLR since the light in winter in So-Cal is always so damn good.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26541906059_bcc395bc26_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GrqcXZ)17126607_187556101736280_2267792163066609664_n (https://flic.kr/p/GrqcXZ)

Last thing ive done recently is black out the front grill chrome and paint the mirrors trim black Good ol Sem 39143 Trim Black!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38283935402_5b0c39a9fe_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21k2bcL)17333645_592536084276489_806290984957640704_n (https://flic.kr/p/21k2bcL)

Its been a lot of little things. I'll do my best to keep this thread updated with its progress as i have a lot of little things on it I still want to change.

[xrayspecs]

part 3

More Pictures of doing the clutch swap, you can see where the torn inner CV boots let the grease fling to, all over and since its normally a daily (aint about that show car clean life) I didn't bother trying to scrape it out of every crease. just wiped what i could off before putting everything back in.



New Clutch and pressure plate and pilot bearing all going in.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26601796529_95d91a6796_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwHaji)IMG_20161231_135338 (https://flic.kr/p/GwHaji)

Kartboy poly shifter bushings going in, it was super stiff putting everything back together, really made me glad to be doing this with the transmission out as it would have been a lot of cursing at the car if id have tryed to do this on jack stands and around the transmission.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38347182482_a8e4675ffa_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21qBkmE)IMG_20161231_135315 (https://flic.kr/p/21qBkmE)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26601793419_317c9f4952_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwH9oF)IMG_20161231_135326 (https://flic.kr/p/GwH9oF)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38377434441_538d0a8076_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21thoda)IMG_20161231_135322 (https://flic.kr/p/21thoda)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38347185252_40a7f1999c_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21qBmbq)IMG_20161231_135355 (https://flic.kr/p/21qBmbq)

picked up a new shift knob to replace the OEM one, I never liked the feel of it or the shape. the way it lumped and was asymmetric i would constantly scew/unscrew it while sitting in traffic. plus the lack of a jam nut always made it loose if i squared the H pattern up.
I picked up an aftermarket Hurst Knob that was meant for a Toyota Truck. It fits perfectly and brings some hot rod nostalgia to the cabin, not to mention has a jam nut.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24145205227_286294bda0_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CMCuiR)20171212_075309 (https://flic.kr/p/CMCuiR)

but damn i need a shift boot now. just gotta borrow a sewing machine!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39008949721_79ba42791c_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22r64GD)20171212_075325 (https://flic.kr/p/22r64GD)

Picked up some parts from another user on here.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39518870822_de5a7104cc_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23d9xtL)20180106_165522 (https://flic.kr/p/23d9xtL)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39518863452_d369981798_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23d9vhG)20180106_165529 (https://flic.kr/p/23d9vhG)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/27772181069_d8e5892811_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jj8FS6)20180106_165551 (https://flic.kr/p/Jj8FS6)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24681083577_dbe31ceabc_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DAZ1gK)20180106_165605 (https://flic.kr/p/DAZ1gK)

Front strut tower brace and rear strut tower bar and radiator shroud piece, part numbers in the breakdown sheet at the top.
Nothing like some extra spicy JDM goodness added to the car when you can.

Started with the rear strut bar, was easy enough to put in, pulled all the items out of the trunk and then remove the four 14mm bolts in the chassis, put the plates in and then bolt the bar up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/25678033828_509ffc8ca0_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/F85CRb)20180106_171833 (https://flic.kr/p/F85CRb)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38652374855_b6e1d9dab4_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21Tzwq8)20180106_172546 (https://flic.kr/p/21Tzwq8)

SPEED HOLES EVERYWHERE.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38652367695_e593af0154_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21TzuhF)20180106_175441 (https://flic.kr/p/21TzuhF)

The rear trunk liner did require a trim to fit back in properly back in place.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38839426404_b32576d851_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22b7djQ)20180106_175448 (https://flic.kr/p/22b7djQ)

All back together, i know my floor mat is super greasy from hauling car parts around for ages.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39518805572_524eda7dfd_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23d9d5L)20180106_175716 (https://flic.kr/p/23d9d5L)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38839418984_e15253d589_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22b7b7U)20180106_175725 (https://flic.kr/p/22b7b7U)

Next was installing the dress up piece, easy enough, two 10mm and two 13mm fasteners on the cross beam and radiator support out, piece installed and then repeat in reverse.
I know my engine bay is dusty, she aint a show car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39548394601_0429354feb_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23fKRSr)20180106_175923 (https://flic.kr/p/23fKRSr)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24680986637_38cee6e95e_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DAYvsn)20180106_181520 (https://flic.kr/p/DAYvsn)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24680986317_a780435862_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DAYvmR)20180106_181526 (https://flic.kr/p/DAYvmR)

[xrayspecs]

Part 4.

Last item was the front strut tower brace, this one took two tries as i wasnt paying attention and put the left brace on my left facing the car not the other way round, and had to do the left side twice.

was quick enough to do, the plates and bar went right on after pulling the strut tower nuts off.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38652304815_ab93a31138_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21TzaAx)20180106_184539 (https://flic.kr/p/21TzaAx)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/24680959707_c237133962_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DAYns4)20180106_184549 (https://flic.kr/p/DAYns4)

After driving with it on a quick canyon run by where i live, not sure if i notice any major gains with the parts, but were quick enough to install in an hour.

A quick beauty of her as she sits right now.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39548462871_63ee84c6bd_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23fLdav)20180105_164742 (https://flic.kr/p/23fLdav)

since replacing the transmission, ive had a backfire in the exhaust. when i put the car back together i was lazy and reused the header to cat gasket, and also noticed that at some point along the cars life someone had welded new cats in and welded one of the flange bolts to the pipe. Cut and hammered the weld/bolt out, touched up the cut and mating surface of the flange with a hand file and put it back together. Runs great and no more backfiring, it should help with the bid dip in mpgs too i have seen since the swap.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/28157858779_3c4b255f27_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JUdopM)20180127_153941 (https://flic.kr/p/JUdopM)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/28157857869_56570835d9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JUdo96)20180127_163138 (https://flic.kr/p/JUdo96)

updated the horns from the OEM units to Supertones. Ive used supertones in the past on offroad trucks and buggies. they get the point across better than anything short of air horns.... which i might add anyways because LA.
ignore my dirty car, its impossible to keep clean where i work. but they bolted right into place where the oem units were, since the factory uses a relay and fuse that can handle these just fine. I just made ground jumpers to ground the horns and used the factory hot lead for power. the drivers side went right on no problem and the bracket fit in the factory notches to locate the horn no problem, but to get the passengers side to fit without modifying the harness just takes flipping the Hella bracket to the other side from how they come then just bolting it on.

i made some quick and dirty ground jumpers to go from the post to the mounting bolt as the oem ones ground through there frame/bracket.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/40152083181_d27a223bd6_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24b6Vse)20180208_070038 (https://flic.kr/p/24b6Vse)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39434026674_e7c1624bfb_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/235DGgC)20180207_205902 (https://flic.kr/p/235DGgC)

OEM units that were removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39246847885_6618babf5f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22N7mx8)20180207_205910 (https://flic.kr/p/22N7mx8)

after bracket flip and mounting them, bracket bolt is a 12mm.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26272225328_eb894a96e4_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/G2A2hd)20180207_212354 (https://flic.kr/p/G2A2hd)

and my dirrrrrrty car with the supertones peeping through the grill now.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26272213008_fdb057e52e_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/G2zXBN)20180207_212708 (https://flic.kr/p/G2zXBN)

Got some driving lights. My go big or go home attitude may have gotten the best of me as I thought there was room behind the grill to add these. Might make a rally bar or bumper mount them anyways.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/28416011649_0c00cbe05b_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ki2ugk)20180209_163642 (https://flic.kr/p/Ki2ugk)

got tired of how the ram mounts look/work etc and switched to a Mob Armor mount, lot nicer package and goes right on the dash no more window sticky shit, plus now its easier to watch Dashcommand or GPS.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39349993765_e575f80944_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22Xe1dn)IMG_20180212_170603 (https://flic.kr/p/22Xe1dn)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39350379915_11f513ab25_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22XfZ18)20180213_102234 (https://flic.kr/p/22XfZ18)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39349993525_5d0bf9888f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22Xe19e)IMG_20180212_170552 (https://flic.kr/p/22Xe19e)

Oil change and replacement filter, conventional 5-30wt and filter, i sould really do a relocator and front mount oil cooler with the borlas right up on the filter.

Also started the installation of the fogs, ordered the dash switch and relay. just need to add the actual fogs.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/26511621038_9dd7123c8d_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GoJZhs)20180218_152430 (https://flic.kr/p/GoJZhs)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/40383030811_85718111d9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24wvA8V)20180218_162518 (https://flic.kr/p/24wvA8V)

strut brace that I had installed, was having an interference issue with the hood, to the point I can see on the top side where its meeting.
picture of the bottom of the hood where they hit.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/38660095930_493b8709ab_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21Ug6C7)20180224_142257 (https://flic.kr/p/21Ug6C7)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39574825315_ae40457561_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23i6jNp)20180224_142254 (https://flic.kr/p/23i6jNp)

Cheap easy solution was a 1/2" piece of stock from scrap at work and 4 longer M8x1.25x30mm fasteners to stand the back of the hood off the hinges. these work for a rev 1, will have to make and trim up a second set that matches the hood hinge and isnt just strait bar stock.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/39760205584_720ff2e1cf_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23ztrTW)20180224_142304 (https://flic.kr/p/23ztrTW)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/25599556157_a3c55ae7ea_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/F19qaT)20180224_142238 (https://flic.kr/p/F19qaT)

[xrayspecs]

Part 5

I have been hording parts to rebuild the rear end with all polymer, should have everything to do that soon. so will have the whole rear sub-frame out and all rubber replaced, then the front and back set ups will match.
Need to also get a steering rack as the unit in it has decided to start leaking out the passengers side that will get done soon.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/46799503994_74813d2997_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eivG4U)

The starter did give up the ghost in January, so replaced the starter with an oem unit. Also while i had the starter out replaced the clutch slave cylinder soft line with a new oem unit and bleed the clutch and put in new dot 3 fluid. Since im also a im already doing this anyways type of person i replaced the fuel filter and hoses on while in the engine bay.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/47470626912_6004ffb6e8_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fjPnwG)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/33646384588_4a311ae350_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TgdvV7)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/33646384728_78deb39d87_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TgdvXw)


I did however manage to pic up some Enkei RPF1's in 17x8 +45 with Continental extreme contacts in 235/45R17, there is a little rub on full bump.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/33646386498_e0a0cb61bc_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Tgdwu3)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/46799504284_4c7b76a52b_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eivG9U)


Well got one week out of the RPF1's, had someone cut me off in traffic and brake check me hard. was a 20ish mph rolling hit but still did a fair amount of damage to the hood/core supports/lights and crash beam. ill have to get it to a frame shop to see if its still strait or not and decide what to do.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/33690323298_8deb46e811_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Tk6Hn5)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/46843292414_f2b23b5a88_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eno7QE)

but i pulled the front end out, hood, core support and put the car on a frame jig *(checking and the chasis was still straight and undamaged)

replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, and rad cap and got the hood mostly straight, and am driving it again.

i need to replace most of front clip (hood, bumper, grill, and lights core support.) but the bumper core was unbent/touched. so on the look out for a JDM rev D front end.

[xrayspecs]

Part 6

Got a front clip like i was on the look out for.

At the same time i replace the power steering system im going to be finally fixing the crash damage with a full front clip i have coming in. cant wait to have it all together and painted to match.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49561699191_57ebc31322_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49561931762_fa35a15c01_c-1.jpg

The rack and pinion had been leaking a bit since before the fender bender. the leak finally killed the power steering pump when it got cold this winter. with everything going on finally have time to get all the parts together and tear into replacing the entire power steering system. Based on information from various forum threads on here and elsewhere i went ahead and got a +15MY steering rack to replace the OE unit. I also put in a while back a 5 panel wink mirror i made brackets to adapt to the OE visor mount point, I need to make another rev that has slots so i can get more adjustment on the mirror. I have always had these on my cars in the past and they kick ass for improving the rear visibility when driving.

Wink mirror brackets made two like this.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909387531_e765fe61da_c-1.jpg

Mirror in place.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909387371_b5c918420c_c-1.jpg

Installing the +15MY steering rack is pretty straight forward.... cleaned under the hood first so wouldnt be so dirty to work on.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49908871538_6381d9d943_c-1.jpg

You can see the failed seal on the passengers side that had been leaking since probably right after i completely rebuilt the front end a while back. it only recently got bad enough that it killed the pump. Went through the Simple Green cleaning this all up.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909470417_8775fa2b08_c-1.jpg

pull the pump, hoses, belt and power steering pump.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909687962_a43b6f193a_c-1.jpg

clean everything, and install the new power steering pump.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49908871478_a8dbcbf962_c-1.jpg

Steering racks next to each other after removing the old and busted OEM unit.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49908654043_e1744cb46d_c-1.jpg

to get the newer steering rack to work with the OEM steering shaft you have to use the +15MY steering ujoint. the splines on the steering pinion are different than the ones on the 02 pinon so this piece has to be upgraded. i used Part number 34170VA30 from Subaru. ill get a picture of the new ujoint in place here shortly. the part number listed slides right onto the splines on the steering shaft with no problems.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49908654328_d0dc1f04dc_c-1.jpg

the other major item is you have to open up the subframe, the power steering rack wont clear on the driverside without doing this. its a bit of trial and error of test fitting till you've gotten enough out of the way. size of the hole I made

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909470397_bf619cd76c_c-1.jpg

the passengers side of the steering rack I reused the Whiteline bushing that i had installed on the previous rack ,and reused the OEM clamp and hardware.

***the other major item that i did address (didnt grab photos of the process) is you have to take about 1/2" of thread off of the inner tie rods on the +15MY STI rack. And about 3/8ths off the outter tie rods to get any toe in when you align the car, just cut and chase the threads. follow this guys instructions if you are going to do it yourself. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=42773116

*****NOTE the OEM BE outer tie rod ends, I installed previously part number ES3715 FIT onto the +15MY STI inner tie rods. in fact they look IDENTICAL dimensionaly to the ones that were on the steering rack assembly i purchased. I choose to reuse the MOOG units for three reasons, the wrench flat was in a different position (this lets me cut down the tie rod with no loss of the wrench flat area), they were still in great condition, and they have grease zerk fittings that allow me to service them every 10k or so.


I Currently the rack is in the car, however i need to reclock my steering wheel and finish the hoses.

The OEM power steering hoses fit onto the +15MY STI steering rack, see below for test fit before i started the installation, no need for any crazy custom hoses like i have seen on all the other installations of this steering rack.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49909038118_ba22e7a28e_c-1.jpg

will let everyone know how it transforms the car after its all in and aligned.

[xrayspecs]

Finally got around to getting the proper hardware for the longer fasteners needed on the drivers side.

I had picked up low grade fasteners to test fit everything when installing, however I guessed wrong on the fastener lengths. so after test fitting and measuring I ordered some M10x1.25 in Class 12.9 fasteners (70mm/80mm length), washers and lock washers for that side, i also measured up the spacer and got a stand off for the step side of the steering rack that was needed.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49936962741_0a4fab058e_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49937265622_fed590b959_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49938512831_2be934d2ac_c-1.jpg

Steering rack installed clearance around the opened up steering rack.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49936448738_941d1c424d_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49937265497_0c870e64eb_c-1.jpg

now that everything is installed and in its proper place found out the +15STi steering knuckle is too long for the BE/BH chassis. see the below for side by side. I thought there might be enough splines on the steering shaft that it wouldn't be an issue. But now that i have the correct length bolts that is not the case and the shaft will need to be shortened. Based on what I have measured ill need to make it about 1.5"~2" shorter to match the overall length of the shaft that was removed. Kinda stuck on this install till I get this shortened and welded up.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49938585401_a4f86f6e1c_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49938888057_d85fe70934_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49938585251_1308fc1381_c-1.jpg

The engine kept throwing a code for knock, took a spark plug replacement, and a new knock sensor. when I had pulled the old one off, it had a massive crack across the sensor, and testing bad with a multi-meter. All the LPS had in stock was one from a WRX, fit and has worked just fine.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49917369601_b4922c0159_c-1.jpg

Also had the wheel bearings on the passenger side front start to howl really bad.
replaced both front wheel bearings, seals, C-clips, lock nuts and the sound in the car decreased drastically.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49917669667_0262c0bedb_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49917669512_2c1929a35c_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49917368716_1c636a767a_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/49917670337_f5b2e3a354_c-1.jpg


Slowly chipping away at this project, between work, house projects and family not had much time the last few weeks to finish it up and get the BE on the ground.

Cut down and got the STI u-joint shaft to the correct length. right now need to get some time to TIG it back up.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50023290722_c31cb2de9a_c-1.jpg first cut of the OEM weld out

Fit check on the rack and steering column.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50023290892_c3eff471ea_c-1.jpg

Installed the power steering cooler in front of the grill, and test fit all the hoses this location is temp with this front clip, when I swap the JDM front clip ill move the location and hoses to a permanent place and build a proper bracket for the cooler...

- - - Updated - - -

So got the Ujoint installed today, and took it around the block, with just an eyeball alignment HOLY COW is this steering rack an improvement! also with no more rag joint you really do feel more of the road through the steering wheel. so much for NVH!

I'll have to get out the tape measure and align the car so I can drive it to the shop for a proper alignment soon.
New shortened 15+ STI ujoint next to the original one with the rag joint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50049229927_babeb15b8f_c-1.jpg

Ujoint installed finally, although I did mess the timing up on the shafts so I'll have to take it apart and fix that this weekend. no broken clock spring though which is good.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50049229637_7ef6b4b4c4_c-1.jpg

took a 1/4" off each outer tire rod to get the needed ability to get some toe. both the tie rod outer and inner shafts have 1.75+/-.05 thread on them and I used a thinner jam nut to achieve toe in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50048413778_53de6c0e86_c-1.jpg

Finally back on the ground.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50049075486_56c7873a5d_c-1.jpg


Not for long though! finally dug every part out of everywhere in the garage for the next project.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50049331712_ffd100e284_c-1.jpg

slowly chipping away at my want to do list for this chassis.


pulled out the ujoint and painted it with some black enamel paint as in my excitement to drive the car. I had skipped that step putting it all back together, waiting for the paint to dry also gave me some time to adjust the toe back to reasonable enough to get it to the alignment shop, and straighten out the steering as it was majorly misaligned.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50096854343_f205175ae1_c-1.jpg

car is now in backwards for the next step, will be pulling the whole rear subframe off the car.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50096854358_4946294545_c-1.jpg

Started on pulling the whole rear sub-frame. No rush on this since Ill have to get a press for a few of the bushings.

first step, disconnect the exhaust, two 14mm nuts and bolts. I dont even try and take the axle back off as its so rusted (OEM) and just pull the whole mid pipe and it off together.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124583466_2fd2721ffa_c-1.jpg

disconnect the driveshaft from the diff.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124805682_21d75d4b30_c-1.jpg

then the only things left holding the whole sub-frame in are the dampers, abs speed sensors, park brake cable and rear brake lines. Its been a while since I have flushed the brakes, so i just disconnected the hoses and will bleed the brakes later. I should probably get new soft lines anyways, since I'm already doing the work.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124010763_488ccaee7e_c-1.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50124583201_c70edd5026_c.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124010873_493181705d_c-1.jpg

PRO TIP, Put all your ebrake springs/clips/pieces in a baggie and write what side it goes on the baggie in sharpie. less looking for lost springs later

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124010688_d00c2ed65a_c-1.jpg

to get to the subframe bolts disconnect the sway bar, it gets it out of the way.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124010798_a56b80ab20_c-1.jpg

also, what 20 year old rubber bushings tend to do. can't wait to have them all replaced and not blown out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124583246_3f6e951e76_c-1.jpg


everything is loose, and ready to drop.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50124010908_670b84e0f3_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Sub-frame is out, so many crusty bushings, got all of the links loose and time to start putting the new urethane ones in. lots of PB blaster and cheater bars to get bolts and nuts that havent moved in almost 20 years loose. time to start planing adding shop air to my garage.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50132098667_3219c90211_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50132098597_83810cc813_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50132098537_a78b63104c_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50131311768_68c0cc6986_c-1.jpg

Finished stripping the rear sub-frame of the links and hubs. My plan is to put new bushings in the sub-frame, then put the sub-frame back in, then add the diff back and build the suspension back into the car as i get the bushings into all the links. I really should upgrade the sway bar and shocks/springs.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268378_bf573fb6c1_c-1.jpg

since I plan on installing the whiteline adjustable control arms, I am putting on the toe lock bolts in.

Original OEM adjusters.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146810851_1927fa7db7_c-1.jpg

The lock kit next to the oem eccentric bolt adjusters

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268408_7bae1250a8_c-1.jpg

Temporally installed in the sub-frame till the arms go in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146811021_b07034f216_c-1.jpg

I haven't got a press in my home garage yet and my work shop is full up with work so cant exactly sneak a subframe in to press bushing in and out right now without getting in trouble. Resorted to how i've done it before in the past.

started with the diff bushings as they were already 90% ripped.

Start with cutting out all of the guts of the rubber you can out of the bushing.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268498_69d435399d_c-1.jpg

then you need to use a metal blade or high TPI bald for the next step. put the saw into the bushing and start cutting, you want to cut through the metal of only the bushing. you want to make 3~4 notches all on the same side about 1/2" from each other. use a chisel/punch and hammer to peal the bushing back where the notches are located at. take care not to gall the face on the subframe when doing this.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146811041_1a270c0278_c-1.jpg


the bushing should look like this once you start to get it pealed back, just keep beating it with a punch till it pops out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146811221_cb3ae55e73_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268623_b87c647de6_c-1.jpg

when done right, shouldnt take anymore time than using a press and the proper jigs.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268803_1d177c7879_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50146268788_160f53dee8_c-1.jpg

for my next trick press the bushings in with no press... but need to knock the rest of the subframe bushing out.

Been busy with work lately, however managed to get some more of the diff bushings out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50162468493_654304fc36_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50163006196_eb61c0d6ea_c-1.jpg

installed KTD905 Into the outrigger. Almost done cutting and chipping the stubborn subframe bushings all out so I can put the polymer ones in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50162468583_bda2024f3b_c-1.jpg

Subframe Bushings out, after almost 20 years they really really really really didnt want to come out of the subframe without a fight. I have zero body rust, but the subrframe bushings had some on the bushing that was really keeping them in. They all pretty much look like this one once they came out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50190875957_f57bf95c53_c-1.jpg

sub-frame all ready for the new Powerflex poly bushings.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50190617496_3e1745218b_c-1.jpg

Bushings fit perfectly. cant wait to see how they transform the car along with all the other bushings.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50190071813_1e8e50bd23_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50190617436_683a775120_c-1.jpg


Rear most bushing on the trailing arms is out and working on getting the bushings out of the upper links.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50190617581_a357363445_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

The pile of old crusty blown out rubber

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220670487_b98c953151_c-1.jpg

the Powerflex bushings are a money fit, getting the old ones out by far took the most work.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220670457_8e6bedd738_c-1.jpg

lower front bushings in place, follow the directions as they are different sizes and go in a certain way.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50219801688_12782640ee_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220670737_65a33b521b_c-1.jpg

Lower rear/outer bushings in, these also are different sizes and go in a certain way. the pin holes go vertical on both sides.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220670597_fec439faf1_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220670672_afd632739b_c-1.jpg

just need to finish with the upper link and rear diff bushings itll be reassembly time.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50220451631_00dfe99675_c-1.jpg

Finally found some time and a break in the 100+ days to get the rear diff bushings installed into the subframe. The finish on the KDT906 bushings isn't the greatest and the sharp metal edge of the bushing was digging in and causing the bushings to not start square to the location. some time with a small die makers file and it helped a lot. I put a chamfer on the leading edge of the bushing band helped a lot, i also used some assembly grease and froze the bushing to shrink it a tad.

A piece of 5/8" grade 8 all thread is a great replacement for a press if you have the patience. I used a 2" x 3" pipe fitting as a stand off/support to pull against with the bushing, i didn't want to wreck the sub frame trying to pull against the thin wall tubing the bushing resides in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50273219596_c675e2fdb2_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50273382937_481cb088ff_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50273218906_b7190f54f0_c-1.jpg

Now i just have to put it all back together.

Subframe is back in!

Diff bushing crush tubes all lubed up and inserted.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50288830437_89a9e1e0c2_c-1.jpg

put the front dogbone in so I could lift it up with the jack. not pictured some 2x4's so it would lift evenly.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50288677721_96a834db82_c-1.jpg

Subframe in! Bushings look great and cant wait to see how they improve the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50288825047_720644647c_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50288677951_43b260ec93_c-1.jpg

Now to finish installing the rest of the arms and torque it all to spec.

[xrayspecs]

once the subframe was in and settled i toured to spec, will be checking it again after a couple hundred miles for any settling.

upper arms have all new bushings and are in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50296437307_238f153528_c-1.jpg

remove the little trim piece, two 12mm fasteners to get access to the bolt to stick a torque wrench on it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50301333828_789525540c_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50302174262_8f7ae3fb36_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50301333763_2f2530d5fb_c-1.jpg

Set the adjustable arms to match the OEM track and toe arm lengths to start with. gets it close to the ballpark to start for when you go in for an alignment. i used the oem arms and bolts to make sure they matched up before snugging the arms up for installation.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50295600638_2deedbb9c6_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50296278731_d8d40c455b_c-1.jpg

everything installed and torqued to spec, waiting on the trailing arms and hubs.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50295600438_42e061696b_c-1.jpg

driver side trailing arm and hub install.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50302174487_771db4a772_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50301333913_fe6f701db3_c-1.jpg

install should be done this weekend if the heat wave doesnt get to bad.

all new shinny rear subframe and trailing arm bits are installed and torqued to spec. she looks good, cant wait to get it on the ground and aligned.

only thing left to do is put the brakes back on, and bleed the brakes.

after than itll be on to the install the JDM front clip.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50312406818_293db27964_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50313250832_90122a2cc1_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50313250827_e92e725431_c-1.jpg

Finally got the old girl back on the ground.

still need to bleed the brakes a few more times to get all the air out of the lines and take her in for an alignment but shes off the jackstands! after the alignment its time for some new tires.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50339536997_33c77b43a7_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50338694298_0e7fe156b5_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50339382206_60f0cf1cf7_c-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Adjusted the park brakes and bleed the brakes, and put the new in transmission mount into the car last weekend and got it on the ground, took it around the block everything felt good, and went to park and the park brake cable on the passengers side broke. im going to replace both the drives side and passenger side here when the parts get in. Ordered one of each p/n's 26051AE06A & 26051AE07A. Ill add pictures when they get in.

But since now I have all the mechanical parts fixed up and repaired it was time to swap the front clip.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50390494513_2e240b8735_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50390494518_27a07abc89_c-1.jpg

Stripped of the USDM Legacy L front clip and waiting on the JDM Spice I got a while back.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50390494683_cb7e47a7b9_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50391362342_b6638deb85_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50391362207_3d785b28f2_c-1.jpg

test fit of the bumper and lights, still need to sort out all the wiring to have the correct connectors for the fogs and the hids.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50394719277_0e30f7f9d3_c-1.jpg

Some more work today since its finally cooling back off.

Got the core support separated from the cut off, the headlight supports should be larger that the ones on my chassis and allow the headlights and ballasts to fit with no needing to hammer it open.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50420565541_9732cd04ce_c-1.jpg

also test fit the fenders, i knew the jdm trim line wouldn't match the usdm from research I had done in sli.net, but i think i have a plan for what I'm going to do with them. if it works ill post it if not ill find a passenger side usdm fender to replace the trashed one on that side.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50420736152_fb0b456212_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2020/10/50419875243_8c2c202ac4_c-1.jpg

[rkrenicki]

Wow, that is some very nice progress! Too bad you are on the opposite coast from me, I have an extra rear Japanese windscreen and wiper assembly for the sedan that would go nicely on your car..

[xrayspecs]

Thanks! yeah its been lots of little things here and there, and this summer since I now have a garage its really taken off! I would love to have the JDM rear windscreen and wiper! although the next upgrade i have planed is koni's and new springs. hopefully those will get together and go on after i finish the wiring and jdm swap!

[thenines']

I haven't seen an outside lift since I move back to Mass. from Florida:)

[xrayspecs]

Its nice in the cooler months of the year, but when summer in Arizona comes around its not very fun to use.

[subyroo]

Thanks! yeah its been lots of little things here and there, and this summer since I know have a garage its really taken off! I would love to have the JDM rear windscreen and wiper! although the next upgrade i have planed is koni's and new springs. hopefully those will get together and go on after i finish the wiring and jdm swap!

Holy Cow! I could retire on the money that you have sunk into your car. :rofl:
On a serious note though, you have done a great job in getting the car back into good shape, well done, take a bow! :occasion5:

[xrayspecs]

Thanks, its not done yet, still got other plans for it after the konis and springs. currently still need to finish wiring in the jdm pigtails where needed, and adding the necessary wiring/relay so the JDM lights work properly. and finish swaping the core so that all the crash damage is fixed.

I dont have that much into it yet. I cant go too wild while its a driver! hope to have it all back on the road in the next month.

[98legwag]

Wow that is a lot of work. Well done.

[xrayspecs]

Realized its been a while since ive updated this thread the work continues on the car.
Since i have the JDM/OEM harness from the cut off, i also stripped it apart for the pig tails and all the wires need to do the HID Ballast wiring on the car. i know there are threads that detail it but ill add it here as im doing it for another up to date reference.

I also wired up in the relay and switch for the fog lights and it tested good.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50419874138_dda719ed1e_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50420736657_c1e89a6e71_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50420736717_462af21260_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50420735057_db5d6d7533_c-1.jpg

its been a while since an update, with family holiday and everything moving slower than id like but chipping away at it.

instead of making a new harness based on the above, i am doing a bit more than I originally planed on. after comparing the jdm and usdm wiring diagrams, everything matches up on the following i am working on.

I am swaping the USDM MB11/12 in connector F39 on M/B for the heavier wires from the JDM harness I have (both global and USDM FSM's show 15a fuses for 9/8 and the fuses on the jdm fusebox confirm as 15amp fuses and relays) I got lucky and my front cut included all this factory JDM wiring.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50696274961_7f050f5b2d_c-1.jpg

Headlight LH
RL (Red w/Blue stripe) OEM wire pulled to M10 on F39 M/B for hot leg.
RL (Red w/Blue stripe) This is potted/factory soldered to the one above.
RY (Red) High Beam signal on the HID's.
B (Black) ground
4 pin connector

Headlight RH
YW (Blue w/White stripe) OEM wire M11 on F39 M/B for hot leg.
YW (Blue w/White stripe) This is potted/factory soldered to the one above.
R (Red) High Beam signal shown on the Global as Red?
B (Black) ground
4 pin connector

im also wiring up the fogs to be fully independent. i know this is detailed elsewhere but ill add details here for future.

The front cut had the radiator and cooler with the fans on it too, so took those apart and swapped the them to my car as my fan shrouds were cracked from age/crash.

old and busted.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50695530923_1ce23836ac_c-1.jpg


new hotness.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50695530898_de06a557a0_c-1.jpg

Since in the summer ive had some higher than id like underhood temps when running the AC in standing traffic, go LA! I also swapped the secondary fan assembly for the primary fan assembly so now the primary/secondary fans have 5/5 blades over the oem 4/5. everything was a direct fit.

now the fans look like this, hopefully theres a bump in CFM and the temps drop a little.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50695597868_71b49c4662_c-1.jpg


The rad reservoir was newer in better shape so that got swapped as well. Overflow cap with the extra spice.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50696274971_c054c450e3_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50696274666_449869b5ee_c-1.jpg

on the slowest part of any project for me, fitting the body panels, refitting them and checking fits etc so the lines are correct. lots of panels on and back off.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50696274981_ce1fa8cf49_c-1.jpg

hopefully ill be done getting everything fitted up soon and can get the font end color matched.

Getting there, getting around to fitting the headlights, and getting all the body lines on them to match up nice. need to finish up some wiring, and relocate the power steering cooler i installed with the new rack.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50729585663_a8cf904d0e_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50730413537_056d5f3ce0_c-1.jpg


test fit with the bumper cover. really like the white, maybe ill just wrap the whole thing white for a while.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50730413527_5a569a9841_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50730413517_68aa2e41f7_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50729585588_a6325da792_c-1.jpg

Been a bit of work on the project since the last update.

I never liked the look of the chrome on the grill as they came from the factory, so tapped it up and painted the whole grill trim black. I need to do the same with the door window trims so its all the same shade of black.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50899170682_934fbe9126_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50898341413_93ac3d1fee_c-1.jpg

Also since I had the full front harness on my JDM cut, i took my front sub-harness apart to pull the plug lines all the way to the USDM fuse box. currently in the process of taping the who sub-harness back together. the benefit to this is the JDM plugs have a heavier gauge wire than the single bulb usdm plugs. fuse rating is the same. means no need to add extra fuses or relays into the engine bay and will look factory once finished. the only wires that needed to be spliced and resealed up was the high beam trigger lines from the cab harness and the high beam signal line. Ill scan the marked up FSM's and upload them here if anyone is curious.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50898341473_36b2b1c1d5_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50899056311_58c6de0340_c-1.jpg

also since one of the park brake cables broke, I am just going to replace both of them together. do it right the first time.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50898341443_e22f14eac7_c-1.jpg

I had some help, and got the front harness all tapped back up and put in place.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922834471_8e8beb241d_c-1.jpg

while I was at it, I made the modifications to make the fog lights fully independent. so made the necessary modifications while the fuse box was loose and apart before putting it back together.

steps as follows, use the power, yellow/green line for the back washer plug, not used on the sedans. i pulled the power right out of the plug.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922960107_df7f7de0e7_c-1.jpg

I split the two plugs apart so that I didnt need to make a massive jumper. tape the washer plug back up.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922960192_b4857fc82e_c-1.jpg

From the relay block in the MFB, disassemble and locate the Red/yellow wire that powers the coil side on the Fog light relay.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922148033_5983b62f80_c-1.jpg

this needs to be replaced with the 12v power leg from the rear washer plug.
i pulled the whole connector out and tapped it up, and inserted a new connector that fit into the fuse box, the connector from the washer unit is too large to fit and will need replacement.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922960032_7aa1a14a13_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922960052_2675f08c23_c-1.jpg

stuff everything back in and put it all together.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922960337_151a41de48_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922148193_22dffe784a_c-1.jpg

also replaced the MFB cover with some more JDM spice.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/50922148228_d9e6d7a149_c-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Since i hadn't run the car in over a year and never disconnected the battery i think i killed the battery, even the 2amp charging couldn't bring it back.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51001837510_ea11dfc219_c-1.jpg

I did get new fender liners for the car got the driver side installed. the passengers side is half installed as I am missing some clips Im waiting for in the mail. I also and have some new goodies on the way that ill add here once I start the installation of them.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51071118812_1c81e5df77_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51001837535_702dd4b66d_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51071023766_e3b20c5151_c-1.jpg

also took the time to put all my receipts and datasheets from the parts installed together. it sure does add up fast once youve got it all in the same place.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51070326403_6f1abee5fb_c-1.jpg

As this thread is a testament to the fact that i dont know any better and that when it comes to scope creep its a free for all for me.....

the next step of parts are starting to roll in and i cant help but share a bit of what i have planned to add to the ever growing list of parts.

3" extended ARP wheel studs, because i dont like how short the OEM ones are now that i have alloy wheels.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51099346231_da45edc267_c-1.jpg

Koni struts, but make it spicy, still working out the final details for the new hats and spring lengths/rates but the parts are rolling in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51099429039_9349d85ccc_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51099427324_86a11af36f_c-1.jpg

[Muse]

This is absolutely incredible!

[subyroo]

also took the time to put all my receipts and datasheets from the parts installed together. it sure does add up fast once youve got it all in the same place.

That has been my thought whilst reading through this thread, along with where does this guy work to pay for all of this. :laughing5:

[xrayspecs]

this has been buying parts off various places when they are a good price for the last 5 years, and doing all the work myself. doing your own labor can reduce the cost a lot on a project of this scale.

[xrayspecs]

Fixed the park brakes, and while in the rear hubs installed the rear put the 3" arp wheel studs in. they required removing the whole unit bearings to get the longer studs in. but oh boy do they make putting wheels on so much easier.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51139154713_667be187a3_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51138259527_b353c323af_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51139154718_21d114c324_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51139154728_ded6965d31_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/04/51138259502_51dbdd1fca_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

drove the car out to the drive for the first time in a long time to wash the dust off the car.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/05/51163716138_5ff4b6cd68_c-1.jpg

Finished putting together the rear struts test fit together, havent had a chance to tighten them up and putting them on the car. Koni rear struts and parts, ill put a parts list together on the front page.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/05/51150574800_22c686fd27_c-1.jpg

Finished cutting up the fronts and putting the coilsleeves on the strut bodies. need to get longer springs and new top hats before i put these together.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/05/51164258084_45a2e545b9_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/05/51164258024_6c1a97f6ea_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/05/51163716158_e02355ef02_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

finally got time to install the new shocks and front extended wheel studs. Front hubs are much less work to install the longer ARP wheel studs. no need to remove anything but the caliper bracket. pounded out oem studs and used my impact to pull the new ones on.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351415523_af6d29e9aa_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351415353_2fc6c6c7d6_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351930509_26454939f3_c-1.jpg

Front and rear struts both finally together torqued and ready to install.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51344167700_2130127ddf_c-1.jpg

Rear Konis next to the OEM's.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351930694_894f5e58d3_c-1.jpg

Front Knois next to the OEM's.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51352208050_56824a7476_c-1.jpg

part of the way through installing.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51352207865_a76b19d096_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351930494_6e0053337f_c-1.jpg

setting it on the ground, so far like where they fit, have to see how the settle and adjust them from there.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51350458092_833e53abca_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351415483_2a46208474_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51351415508_e6157f79ba_c-1.jpg

way lower than i expected. had to use some 2x4's so i could even get the low profile jack out from under the car.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51350458087_f5dcd57ba5_c-1.jpg

Install of the right rear! had a set back on the left rear as the nut for the shock bolt rounded off when i put the cheater bar on it, cut it off and waiting on the dealership for a replacement, should be in this week and i can finish the rear. once thats done ill be able to see how it sits, hopefully not to low i cant get out of my own steep drive.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51343145816_9fb2388011_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51350457992_8d64d343ff_c-1.jpg

[thenines']

Are you going to paint the new front clip? Thought, It looks good in white-never been a fan of any shade of subaru green :glasses1:

[mike-tracy]

This is really great work. If you are going to keep the car, I'd really encourage you to do an 02-07 generation WRX swap to it.

I rode this guy's car back in the day: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1102629&highlight=legacy, talk about epic transformation.

[xrayspecs]

Ill get around to painting the car to all be one color soon enough have other plans for parts before i get to paint. still got a few items i want to do short term.

as for power, I'd like to do that but not till i dont live in CA anymore, doing the BAR legal swap is just way more work than i want to take on right now.

[xrayspecs]

Frozen rear lower driver side shock bolt came in from the dealership. replacing the bolt, washer and nut as the bolt had to be cut off.

all four shocks are now installed, and the springs have started to settle, might raise them up a tad in a week or two.

Nice and shinny new oem hardware!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51367730468_dc2635ef01_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51367511236_df93a194f1_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51367511241_6c7ca645fe_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51367511246_a07528a0c3_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

New rubber is in now, cant wait to get them mounted! stayed the same size for now, not sure how much wider i can get without going up to 9" wide wheels.

VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51397403181_8b807d463a_c-1.jpg

sitting static in the drive now much lower.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51400757030_d0091a5a64_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/08/51400757035_50ee9bc1d4_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Modified one of the two adjusters for the konis that I have. with the rear strut bar its a royal pita to adjust the rear rebound setting. managed to do it with some plyers and the cut down adjuster. need to find a better solution for this. its a big difference between full firm and full soft, so Id like to be able to actually find an adjustment with a proper knob.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51403948501_6aeddd44a0_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51404209248_fa23aa3682_c-1.jpg

Also got a new green top battery and installed it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51404209263_5ebdf13022_c-1.jpg


The JDM headlights i got have a bit of fog to them, spend a bit of time cleaning them up. might have to look for a second set online and buy better condition headlights in the future.

Before

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51433430327_dae199100d_c-1.jpg

after improvement but could be better.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51434927944_8e493065a0_c-1.jpg

also rolled the fenders so that i have some clearance on the outside of the tires. never had any problems doing it this way just takes a long time and a lot of patience.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51484620099_d61d4ae0ba_c-1.jpg

New tires mounted up on the RPF1's

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51484116868_f4fa076fbf_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51483116482_c76c1c3f3d_c-1.jpg

a small 3~5mm spacer may be in my future, there is a small amount of rub on the inside fenders after checking the fitment. but plus side the coil springs on the shocks I built clear the inside of the tire.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51434928099_851ef92b79_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51435156445_4d3f639aa5_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/09/51434186486_fed18f31ee_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

i need to find a B4 oem option lip the oem "fangs" for the bumper now!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51561501512_f821a091a4_c-1.jpg

Big news on this one coming soon... making room in the garage for something, hope to be able to post an update soon.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51562979939_ce4875f115_c-1.jpg

Back in the garage, cause well big things happening.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51562979879_075afb34a6_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

So big chapter here ending for the build thread, i think in all ease of use I'm going to keep this singular thread going and change the top post maybe to reflect the changes that have been made.

The ol girl after 7 years and 60k miles is going to go into retirement. but not without giving up her heart and parts to a new chassis. A month back I got a DM from another member here Jacobpockros about his car having a dead heart and wanting to know what parts I wanted off his chassis. Knowing that mine has at least 4 small and 1 large crash on the title and that no mater what you do or how its repaired uncashed cars will always be worth more. link to his original thread on the car here https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?19971-Jacobpockros-s-2001-Legacy-GT-Limited-Sedan-5spd&highlight=Jacobpockros I told him I wasnt interested in a part out but wanted the whole car. After a little back and forth and a visit down to confirm the car looked as good in person as it did in pictures I made an offer and bought it from him. Finally got down today to pick her up and get her back to my place.... So after a year and a half of major work on my chassis. Im going to take it all back apart to swap everything over to this newer chassis. It doesnt make a lot of sense but passion projects never doo. first up will be to pull both motors and do a throttle body and cam reluctor wheel swap so that I can use the ej out of the 02 in this 01. from there its subframes and parts! hopefully it goes as smooth as I have it in my head.

now for some pictures of the new chapter.

Picking the car up!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51605203824_e5a4c0348c_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51605203854_5d616465e7_c-1.jpg

Made the trip home and now to unload into the garage.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51605424450_4c3293ef5d_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51604760803_904417451b_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51604760548_71e5a3c721_c-1.jpg

Minty clean interior, need to deep clean the carpet but other than that this thing is a time capsule. Just needs a new shift boot.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51603720802_bc35fba002_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51604760543_9f05a551b7_c-1.jpg

looks good in the garage waiting for some upgrades.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51603720797_4511e62e32_c-1.jpg

Two BE's sitting pretty for now. Time for major work for them both.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51604846888_74173eb67b_c-1.jpg

[dodik]

congrats on new ride, was he as stubborn in person as he is in his posts? From what I remember he didn't cheap out on parts for that thing so should be a nice ride.

[xrayspecs]

Its in great shape body and interior wise. from what I see on the receipts and for the spares he gave me everything was kept as OEM as possible everywhere. cant wait to build it into what I want with all the parts ive acquired on my old one. should be fun to do it all a second time.

[xrayspecs]

Well couldn't wait forever, last picture of the car as I received it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638483948_9d669e4da0_c-1.jpg

The white jdm spats I've been holding onto will eventually make there way onto this car. you can see that the JDM white is more brilliant white, while the USDM white is a yellower/creamier white here.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51639120045_64b50400f4_c-1.jpg

Last time that it'll be have the USDM headlights, hood, and bumper.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51637439312_e6c1c0d6be_c-1.jpg

Doing my best to keep this cream puff dent and scratch free.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638483943_b4583c4737_c-1.jpg

for a 20 year old car the engine bay has been kept pretty clean. but there are a few things that will need to be added to my pull list from the green chassis. based on the once over, the throttle cable for the cruise control, the cruise control module possibly.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638918949_d6c7cce22a_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51637439597_8fd9e5f6cd_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638483913_0711c71af9_c-1.jpg

Rad and fans removed to make it easier to slip the motor out. AC comp disconnected from the engine, plan to leave the system connected so that I dont have to vacuum and recharge. power steering lines also disconnected and removed.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638919009_f47a5c5ef3_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51639120120_52da80a30c_c-1.jpg

the Ebay/DNA uel headers look to be in good shape, all disconnected. they will eventually make there way too a for sell thread once i have sense of all the parts im going to keep/sell.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51638269116_8dac8e7abc_c-1.jpg

the was a massive oil leak on the drivers side header that was running out. if i get a wild hair and feel like it ill tear this engine apart and see what the failure mode was.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51637587652_fe3fb422e3_c-1.jpg

some other things i notice in and around the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51639120145_b43cb4abfc_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/10/51639120115_4e270287d7_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Got the last few bolts on the engine loose to get the whole thing free, looks like the starter is the original Denso unit, ill be replacing that with the newer starter I have when this all goes back together.

But in taking the headers off to I found the problem with the "fresh rebuilt" engine that was in the car, when I dropped the header it sounded like there was pebbles in the header.

I found bits and pieces of exhaust valves in the head when I dumped it out. ill have to pull the whole exhaust now to make sure to get any other pieces of valve out of them since the previous owner told me he drove it home while it was loosing power. looks like the whole block and heads are trash now. No chance at saving the aftermarket "hot" cams that were installed in the heads.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648561883_0e02386ed4_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51647507587_c7fb19b1dc_c-1.jpg

Number 3 cylinder has both exhaust valves, but they look wetter than they should for a fresh rebuild.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648339561_2d06702c0c_c-1.jpg

looked at the #4 cylinder found the missing exhaust valve, looks like the head was either rebuild wrong, the car was over revved/money shifted, or oil starved doing donuts. :iam:
Dropped valves do match up with the complaints that the owner was telling me about it having a consistent misfire after he rebuilt it.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648561863_1f8c21d17e_c-1.jpg

BUT WAIT THERES MORE!!!! On closer inspection it dropped both #4 exhaust valves!!!! knowing that the #4 cylinder made best friends with the exhaust valves i dont think ill tear the motor apart there is not going to be much i can sell from piece parts off it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51647507527_48f80f3657_c-1.jpg

Subaru in its natural habitat.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648339546_b4ae1220e3_c-1.jpg

everything ready to come out!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51649193955_1b3fa97e25_c-1.jpg

Heart removed!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51647507502_0a9802250e_c-1.jpg

something has a massive leak, either the transmission snout or the rear main on the block, ill have to pull the clutch off to see what might need to be fixed before it all goes back together. while under the car i noticed the rebuilt rack was leaking fluids from both passenger and drivers sides, both inner tierod boots were full of fluid. good thing i have a brand new +15 STI rack to use!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51649194015_3ce81dee6a_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648998459_71d37f3279_c-1.jpg


now to play shuffle in the garage to make space for the second BE so that i can pull the engine on the flat surface of the garage floor. only major thing i dislike about my house is the drive is at a steep incline.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51648998454_60dfbaf353_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Finally sat down and went though and put together the build list for parts that will make the migration to the white 01.

and oh boy its a list. I think by moving the subframes chassis to chassis it should make it easier that removing and reinstalling everything.

Chassis/Suspension:

Entire rear subframe.

Timken Rear unit bearings (p/n 512183 )
Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A )
Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 )
Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 )
Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 )
Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 )
Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 )
Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 )
Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 )
Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 )
Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 )
ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 )
Subaru of America Bolt Flange shock rear lower (p/n 901000177 )
Subaru of America Washer shock rear lower (p/n 900335056 )
Subaru of America Nut shock rear lower (p/n 20550AA010 )
Rear Shocks
Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1
Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400





Entire front subframe

Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) moved to STI rack for outers.
Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 )
Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 )
Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 )
Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 )
Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 )
Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 )
SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 )
Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 )
Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 )
Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 )
SKP new equipment power steering pump (p/n sk215254 )
Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 )
Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 )
Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 )
Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 )
Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 )
ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 )
Cusco Racing front strut tower brace (p/n 680 540 A) decide if using this unit or the white unbranded one that is on the car.
Koni Yellows assemblies:
Front Struts.
Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT
OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts.
Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100
Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250
Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450
Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147.



Engine:
Interstate Green Top MT-35.
Rebuilt heads and short block
Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 )
PCV Valve replaced with OEM unit (p/n 1181080W00 )
PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS
OEM Idle Air Control Valve (p/n 22650AA192, INTERMOTOR AC519 )
Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R )
OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 )
WIX Air filter (p/n 42728 )
Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header
Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B )
STP Air filter replacement (p/n SA9113 )
IMC exhaust flange gasket (p/n 224 4901 333 )
Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL )
Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 )
Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 )
Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 )
Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 )
NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 )
Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T )

Drivetrain:
Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 )
Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk
Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings
Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings
Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 )
Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urathane (p/n 9563 )


Interior:
LED replacement dome light bulb
OEM WIX cabin filters replaced (p/n 72880AE080 )
Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD )
Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 )
Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan
Wink 5 panel mirror. (p/n)

Exterior:
DRL’s disabled
Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Supertones
JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails
UNK Front fender lines (p/n SU1248104 , SU1249104 ) the ones are the car are blown out from rub.

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei RPF1 17x8 5x100 +45.
VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17.


Parts so far on the for sale list so far, sure to grow, this will all eventually make its way to a dedicated for sale listing.

DNA Motoring/Ebay UEL Headers
Perrin Lightweight crank pully
Drag DR-31 wheels with Firestone staggered? setup tires (205/225)
16" OEM snowflakes (still on the fence about keeping)
Tein S-Tech Springs
KYB gr2 Struts
Rear Tophat Spacers
Core dressed long block, will probably part this out if people need items from it, based on the damage to the #4 and #3 cylinders the block dropped 2 exhaust valves, and broke the #3 rocker arm, that the whole thing is pretty much only good for someone that needs a ej core the delta cams i can almost guarantee are scored after looking at the lifter followers. i did take the crank and cam trigger/reluctor wheels off for the engine swap as the part numbers from 02/01 are different and will need them.
OEM GT/Outback healights no broken tabs, light hazing.
Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel based on paperwork have about 15k miles on them. might hold onto depending on if i look at my clutch on the engine coming out and see that my flywheel is in bad shape... tbd.
Ebay white no name strutbar, if i decide to keep the cusco unit i have, otherwise ill leave it on. depends on if the custco hits the JDM hood. i havent fit checked it yet.
OEM ELH and full OEM cat back for anyone looking to go back to stock.
whole Manual 02 BE chassis, not worth much with no motor, but would be willing to make a deal to someone that needs all the parts to do a H6 auto to manual swap. or i might just hold onto it and get myself a H6 Bh and do that myself eventually....

lots of work to do on this and hope to have it all done by month end. amazing how fast you get when its your 5th time taking it all apart.

[ryu_haneda]

Wow. So many parts and so much work over time. Congrats, hope this is working out for you!

[xrayspecs]

popped the valve covers off of the engine to see how bad the damage on the number 4 cylinder was, cant even see the valve stem retainers. so its really all lost in there somewhere, and low and behold the #3 valve had also left the chat! between that and the scoring on the rocker followers, this block and all the parts aren't good for anything but a core at this point. I don't have a 12 point socket so I wont be taking the heads off this, dont even know what to do with it other than turn it into a boat anchor.

Scoring on the #1 exhaust roller, the #2 looked like this too.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51653876919_fe12c22157_c-1.jpg

more damage.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51653206371_547fce0edd_c-1.jpg

close up of the broken rocker arm, looks more like a improper or unchecked valve lash at this point. but thats as far as ill go to the failure mode.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51652388027_916db600d6_c-1.jpg


picture of the weeping rear main. made an absolute mess of the bellhosing on the transmission.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663663824_368670fd30_c-1.jpg

Stripping all the USDM bits off that will be swapped for the JDM parts.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663211513_572c58eefd_c-1.jpg

got the front Drags off, these will be up for sale too, cleaned them up the best i could, they all have heavy use.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663211603_f7a75aafd7_c-1.jpg

Pulled out the front subframe, since in my head this is the fastest solution. pulled off the whiteline bar, as that will be the only thing that stays on the car. ill have to mic the brakes and see what rotors have the most meat on them and use those.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51662984696_bc1a4b9821_c-1.jpg

will need to get new endlinks though they are blooown out. i have a plan for that though.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51662177357_917de33417_c-1.jpg

front shocks out, these are on the for sell pile, the oem springs and shocks from the 02/green one i held onto and will go back on it so i can move it around.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663664239_fdf089ce84_c-1.jpg

Complete car and the one everything is going onto! got them both in the garage. I'll make sure the next house is a 3 car, or that the driveway is flat so its usable space. cant wait to have this all done.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51662984646_bb8c47ed18_c-1.jpg

Started the process of pulling the engine on the 02. came across the following on the fuel hoses. looks like I'll have to buy some fuel hoses to the parts list I need. since the fuel lines on the 01 were old and cracked.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663211718_0f64924341_c-1.jpg

moved the hood over, the 01 USDM hood was so heavy taking it off compared to the JDM hood. everything bolted up nice and easy.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663664104_c7c711cacf_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663663814_a76cc0a76a_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51663856950_969565ce50_c-1.jpg

at this pace in another week should be that much closer!

[lord flashheart]

damn, this is probably one of the most entertaining builds in a minute. sad to see the it go, but that white BE is fuckin slick. seriously makes me want a 3rd gen bad.

[xrayspecs]

Thanks, I sat in her for a solid 20 min and drank a beer before the part out started, knowing how much work ive put into it over the years. She'll live on in the new white one, and will look great once its all complete

[lord flashheart]

isn't it strange how we can become emotionally attached to cars like that?
I am really bad at anthropomorphizing my car. Sometimes i worry about its feelings.

[xrayspecs]

Getting all the closer! stripped a lot of the parts off the 02 that will be transferred over to the new car.

Rad and the double main fans moved over. ill have to check the old rad off the 01 and see if the fan is yellowed this bad or not. if it isnt ill move it over so that the fans match color better. Rad and all the hoses are getting moved since i know the mileage on them. not sure what the other one has.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674402356_38174ec800_c-1.jpg

Grabbed the power steering cooler, now just need to install it on the core, that will probably happen after the engine is in so i don't crush it leaning over the core.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675068444_f07c06bacc_c-1.jpg


when moving the JDM hood over, i noticed that the liner was coming apart really bad and leaving fiberglass all over the engine bay. pulled it off and trashed it. ill have to see if one of the USDM liners i have will fit. or just leave the hood without it. can see here it absolutely fell part trying to take it off.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675270110_e2dcac2e4e_c-1.jpg

Also popped the cam timing cover off and confirmed that the timing marks are different on the cam, will have to pull the timing belt and gears off the 02 block and put the ones from the 01 block on, I figure that this was the case as the FSM and the part #'s are different between the two years.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675270090_1f54d9af3d_c-1.jpg

Not sure if anyone has ever put real Borlas next to the DNA motoring knock offs and taken pictures, but since I have both in my possession
right now figured why not. Pictures of the headers side by side. I dont have a scale to measure them but i would wager that the DNA's are made out of a much thinner wall tubing holding them both at the same time.

DNA on the top/Borla on the bottom.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674717273_4d45bbe70d_c-1.jpg

Borla
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674637818_dc35892473_c-1.jpg

DNA/Ebay.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675270145_52979f9133_c-1.jpg

Borla
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674402306_12283605da_c-1.jpg

DNA/Ebay
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674637783_741b4a1f74_c-1.jpg

Borla
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51673594627_e0397088ee_c-1.jpg

DNA/Ebay
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675270180_0dd4745efb_c-1.jpg

Borla
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674637843_6947aaf8ec_c-1.jpg

DNA/Ebay
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675068579_b0233cb269_c-1.jpg

All the JDM hotness stripped off the old car now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51674637623_426a4fc1b7_c-1.jpg

Engine is out and ready to get the timing gears swapped now! 3
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675270115_39361f7e91_c-1.jpg

Should have the subframes swapped this weekend and the running EJ in soon! fingers crossed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51675269915_313192cf9d_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51673594317_560aecb550_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Updates on the progress so far, managed to borrow some 12pt sockets from a friend so that I could get the head studs loose on the blown up EJ, i just really wanted to see how bad it really was and it didnt disapoint.

Quite a lot of carbon build up on the cylinders and the heads, but it does alow you to see right where the exhaust valves kissed.

First view with the head pulled.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689789079_7a12ff2680_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689389623_4c857cef99_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689797754_622543934f_c-1.jpg

If you look close you can see the exhaust valve steam on the #4 cylinder lodged itself into the head, also the valves where pretty chipped so they made some hard contact with the cylinders. Safe to say any rebuilding of this block is not worth it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689381233_51758c079b_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689788999_ecba747b84_c-1.jpg

Whole EJ25 is propperly mangled.

I also dropped the clearanced subframe out of the green 02 with the shocks. Lots of elbow greas into to cleaning all the caked on power steering fluid and road grime off the subframe before putting it into the 01. Ive been taking the time to clean things on this go around. I also noticed in the process of removing the 01's subframe that I could feel that the hub bearings were crunchy in a few spots, its expected at 180k, so glad im just moving everything over so that i have newer parts on the 01. For reference the bearings im moving over only have 8k miles in the front and 28k in the rear.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689789064_7a12ff2680_c-1.jpg

I even pulled the steering rack off to clean under it, this took way longer than I thought it would. In the end glad I did it though. You can see the clearnacing required to fit the '15 STI rack.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689111391_0b2af2d64f_c-1.jpg

All cleaned up and all buttoned up with the Whiteline sway bar.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689111086_c0c65ea9b8_c-1.jpg

The bellhousing also had a lot of oil so cleaned it up. No one will see it but but its more for piece of mind so that I dont have to worry about it runing the clutch. After cleaning the transmission up I moved my newer slave cylinder and hydraulic hose over to the 01.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689381088_9200b0c4fb_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689381218_d395a47633_c-1.jpg

Since the 01 has a brokend cruise control cable shield I pulled the cruise control box and cable off the 02, the cruise control cable and module all look in really good shape. Based on the pinouts in the FSM match between model years.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689111296_27e10e1626_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689111346_b4d56ff363_c-1.jpg

Also since I have both subframes apart, I was hoping since the 01 was a GT Limited that it would have the larger rev C/D front brakes which are a 292x24 size rotor. After measuring and cross checking part numbers it looks like the 01 GT-L came with the 276x24 rotors that are the 00-04 non-gt/ob's. looks like the gt rotor size upgraded in 02-04. Based on the reciepts I have the rotors on the 01 are newer/lower milage than the ones on the 02 so the rotors/pads/calipers will stay on the 01. since i have 17's and dont plan to go to 15/16s anytime in the future ill have to get a set of 316x30mm front rotors/calipers and 290x18mm rotors/braket/backing plate from a 05-09 GT chassis for a budget bbk.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51688321262_c3c7bdda30_c-1.jpg

The last step of removing parts from the front of the 02 is the JDM light pigtails, kartboy transmission and shifter bushings. I had to put the front subframe back in so that theres something to rest the transmission on while removing the rear bushings. I also took the time to grab the new fender liners as well.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689381078_c3747ef459_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689111421_ea2333349a_c-1.jpg

Pulled all the JDM Rev D pigtails back to the fuse box and depinned the connector so that i can have all the OEM wiring for the JDM harness from the fuse box to the lights. A real PITA but worth it so itll be done to OEM spec.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51689381198_99bdf1bcc2_c-1.jpg

[lord flashheart]

you know that johnny cash song "One Piece at a time"?
your car reminds me of that song. You're getting a brand new legacy... one piece at a time.

[xrayspecs]

you know that johnny cash song "One Piece at a time"?
your car reminds me of that song. You're getting a brand new legacy... one piece at a time.

yeah i already have most of the pieces now, just moving them around for now.

[xrayspecs]

More work progressing, got the Kartboy shifter bushings and transmission crossmember bushings of the 02.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701097901_d66bbc0bae_c-1.jpg

Pulled the new solid transmission bushing out of the 02.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51700303077_df97f29b88_c-1.jpg

Clearanced subframe, 15+ STI rack and parts going into the 01!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701987040_616f8bfd32_c-1.jpg

Subframe up and bolted on!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701824484_8b578be99d_c-1.jpg

Installed the sway bar backwards when the subframe was out, had to pull it of to flip. easy mistake to make when the subrame is upsidown and out of the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701097791_5b4af9f285_c-1.jpg

Found this gem, when pulling the rear transmission subframe brace, at first noticed that one of the bolts was missing.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701097881_1585176875_c-1.jpg

After pulling the brace out could see that the chassis nut on the 01 was mangled at some point and never fixed... ill have to get to this in the future.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701838999_5ddc07b3a5_c-1.jpg

All the old crusty shifter and transsmission bushings off the 01.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701774929_fa3baf5fdd_c-1.jpg

new Kartboy front shiter bushing.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701987090_9608120112_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701774859_0df5ee55a2_c-1.jpg

all bolted up!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701774824_60712005df_c-1.jpg

Starting on installing the front dampers and brakes! getting close to getting the 01 back on the ground. need to clean up the tuner lug nuts as they all have crap in the back threads and wont go on by hand. Another thing for the to do list.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701379333_db402c85da_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51701774829_32f11f6c39_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51700303032_bcc01e2389_c-1.jpg

[lord flashheart]

LOL'd at the valve kissing comment
Also, that short block is probably still serviceable. Sometimes when they break valves, the valve will punch a hole in the piston or scar the cylinder walls, but that looks fine in the pictures. See that dent in the combustion chamber, right between the exhaust ports? if the valve had been facing the other direction, it would most likely have punch through the piston. I would keep it as a back-up shortblock.

[xrayspecs]

i would normally agree, but something is wrong at the rear main, i have reciepts for 4 of 5 rear main seals in the pile that were givent to me for the car, the rear main on it looks really new, but is still leaking like crazy all over my garage floor. There was oil everywhere inside the clutch area, and on the subframe from it. I found a thread from the previous owner asking if consuming 2 qts of oil every 3k miles was normal for these cars as he was only getting 2qts out at oil changes. I dont think this ej was treated to a great life the last 70k miles. would it do in a pinch? probalbly. would i put it in the car without rebuilding it right now? no.

[lord flashheart]

Yea that is excessive. I wonder if someone scared the block when they pried the old seal out and that's why its leaking.

[xrayspecs]

More progress on this long weekend.

Finished up the passanger side suspenion and got it togther.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51706517857_f45af398ca_c-1.jpg

Since almost everything under the car has been touched and is suspension based, going through and torque checking every bolt to make sure its to spec.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707980594_d1aa2e87e3_c-1.jpg

Straightend out the steering wheel and installed the shortened steering u-joint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51706517952_1665a35713_c-1.jpg

installed the throwout bearing off the 02, it felt tighter and made less noise when spun by hand. lubed up the contact points with high temp red grease so its ready to install. Since I had this problem when I installed the JDM transmission a few years ago in the 02, I checked to make sure that the dowel pins were punched out of the transmission, nothing like trying to punch those out under the car when you cant get the transmission or engine to slide together. you can see here the passanger side is in the transmission, the 02 engine has them still on both sides so I punched it out.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707583788_63feef0162_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51708196685_3c4c7d4eaf_c-1.jpg

Topped off the clutch reservoir and the brake reservoir so that they can gravity fill while waiting to get bleed. the whole brake system will need to be bleed once all the work is done.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51708196675_31f5f3338a_c-1.jpg

Started the electrical work to fit the JDM headlamps and fog lights.
JDM fog light connectors are way nicer than the usdm, they have a weather seal.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707308661_5a7abd6237_c-1.jpg
JDM headlamp connectors, same as before, pulled all the way to the fuse box so its just the same as it would have been on the JDM OEM car I stripped it from.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707980574_3a8753b8ca_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707583918_020accbfb7_c-1.jpg

The 01 fuse box lid was cracked, good thing ill be replacing it with the JDM cover.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707583883_1f327f2eb5_c-1.jpg

Since I was already super deep in the fuse box, took the time to cut in the power to the fog relay from the wagon washer plug that the sedan doesnt have so that the fog has key switched power. still need to jumper the plug on the dash and disable the DRL's.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51707583908_403d316cdd_c-1.jpg

Power steering cooler installed on the chassis, will plumb this in after the engine is in.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51708196680_9aceb0ac61_c-1.jpg

Next step is swaping the timing reluctor for the cam and the crank, i confirmed p/n in the FSM and catalog were different on the manual between 01 and 02. So off comes the timing. i already stripped the ones i need off the blown up engine.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51708533647_1db0aba007_c-1.jpg

To make retiming easy just followed the FSM instructions for setting the timing marks to the head seams, and the crank trigger mark. Used a paint pen to mark rotation and timing location on the 02 belt. the belt on the 01 was oil soaked from a cam seal that was leaking a ton of oil, so it went in the trash. can see the nutsert on the plastic on the 02 broke from just being old and brittle when taking everything apart.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709321701_3186c1c594_c-1.jpg

pulled all the timing cover parts and pulleys out and washed them all off, so that I could use the cleanest looking parts on the 01.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709610696_ac826099d5_c-1.jpg

Had to reuse all the old timing cover seals from the 02, the ones that were new and came off the blown 01 motor were all oil soaked from the metioned cam seal, the gaskets had all swollen up and started to disintigrate, you can see here how swollen they got from the oil on the left.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51710203565_c1cf4c14fd_c-1.jpg

Here you can see the reason for taking the timing all the way off, the 02 triggers are on the left and the 01 triggers are on the right.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709321946_ec8844864b_c-1.jpg

Also found that the woodruff key on the 02 engine had broken, due to the harmonic ballancer that was on the engine having a chunk of the keyway missing. replaced the key with a new one and started to reasemble, means that Ill have to use the perrin pulley till I can get a new harmonic balancer.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709596648_b93a51c545_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51710515320_65346de7c9_c-1.jpg

The factory design on the tensioner with the ability to lock the pistion down is so simple but brillant too not have to fight the tensioner when putting the belt on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709998089_c71230b842_c-1.jpg
the outer driverside back timing cover on the 02 you can see the missing nutzert, so will be using the one off the 01.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709998209_67fb6b049d_c-1.jpg

Belts and timing all buttoned up with and torqued down to spec.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709998094_76e7714cf0_c-1.jpg

Cam's torque checked, belt teeth counts checked and match factory sepc's, cant be to careful as this it the first time ive done timing on a SOHC EJ.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709998064_4e136ef530_c-1.jpg

All on the hoist and ready to slide in!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709998059_5c5ccae17a_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709997929_64ab26a943_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51709596413_92b30af600_c-1.jpg

Had some trouble getting it all to slide together the last little, but pulled it all apart, rotated the imput shaft a bit, and then it all slide together perfect. Engine sitting in the bay, ready to be finished off. Started all the engine bolts, and its waiting to be finished up, hopefully have it all done tomorrow.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/11/51710203210_e91ef7e457_c-1.jpg

Still have a few things left to get before I can finish up and fire it.

to-do still.

buy Anti-freeze and subaru coolant additive
New airfilter, its just time for one dont want to dust the motor
fuel lines
exhaust manifold/header gaskets
exhaust header/cat gasket
clearance headlight bucket area for JDM ballasts
install bumper and skin.
fog light switch jumper for headlight indepenance
drl disable so the hid's dont burn out the ballasts
bleed brakes
roll fenders
other misc things.

[xrayspecs]

More work getting closer to firing the 01 up.

Torqued the power steering hoses down, if i ever want to add a turbo, will have to go the custom hose route.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51717763217_01888710be_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51718822823_dd9c9a4616_c-1.jpg

When putting the starter in, and landing the grounds noticed that the ground strap clip was missing, pulled the piece off the 01 and moved it over to the motor from the 02 and everything sealed up so I could start burping the cooling system.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51719224549_8f72380294_c-1.jpg


Borla headers and everyting bottom side all torqued to spec.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51717763182_66356ee407_c-1.jpg

Also the 01 had the OEM undertrain on it, but from all the leaks it was super oil soaked. lots of degreaser and washing of it all.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51718566586_682681dd82_c-1.jpg

Put all the hoses back on and the rad is in, time to fill with fluid and burp it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51718822688_bd4e859ffa_c-1.jpg

The heater core hose that was on the motor on the 02 didnt quite seal up tight, it felt good when i put it on and tightened it up but, when trying to burp.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51718859868_a50016f4c0_c-1.jpg

Still need to get fuel hoses now and she will be all ready to fire up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51719224559_d1829862ea_c-1.jpg

Got the front lights and bumper skin on as well! looking great.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51718566561_1075140f3e_c-1.jpg

Checking that I did all the wiring corret.
Foglights work and they are headlight independent now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51717763167_57f43c7767_c-1.jpg

Headlamps, turnsignals, high/low beams work and the dash indicator works as well!.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51719224569_9337ae98c3_c-1.jpg

not much left on the font end to-do now!

[lord flashheart]

if you go turbo? if? IF?? doing a build like this and not going F/I is a slap in the face to the Legacy Gods!

[xrayspecs]

I have other plans before I go to a turbo power plant. still have some suspension and other driveline things i want to do before i go turbo. those will hopefully happen in the next year. I'd also like to find a clean H6 LLBean NonVDC wagon since i have a stripped chassis that has everything i'd need to do a 5mt swap on one.... maybe find a rev. d blitzen clip for one... i'd need a 2nd car for me before i can do another engine out for the harness merge needed to go turbo.

[xrayspecs]

Brake and Clutch bleed! oh man was the fluid disgusting brown, nothing like fresh fluids! doing it with a self bleeder kit always takes sometime but thats the way it goes.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51725552352_2f155980e7_c-1.jpg

All bleed and taking the time to try and burp the coolant before the first fire. everything connected and torqued to spec!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726608703_d65570863c_c-1.jpg

First time on the ground with all the fresh parts. still missing the undertray and some clips for the bumper that i need to put on the sides, but at this point im to excited to fire it up!https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51727014104_42c078d44f_c-1.jpg
Man the BE's look so good with the jdm parts and dropped low on the ground.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726361431_bdc318b35b_c-1.jpg

Got the car started up and drove around the block! the ECU did throw a MIL, and two codes when i scanned. one for P1507, and for P0107. the reman power steering pump thats on the 02 motor that went into the car is also screaming for its life, and sounds terrible. I'm going to have to pull the ps pump off the 01 motor and swap it onto the 02 motor.

The P1507, for some research looks to be the neutral switch on the transmission, so cleared the code. If the P1507 comes back ill have to get the switch off the 02 transmission and throw it on the 01.

the P0107, is for manifold absolute pressure circuit low, I had a feeling that the ecu would throw a code like this when i started the swap but was hopeful that it wouldnt happen. the 01 manual has a different throttle body and different pressure/temp sensor part number than the manual 02 does. ill clear it and drive it a while and if it pops back up, ill have to do a throttle body swap (possibly the manifold) and wiring so that the ECU is happy.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51727242705_cb452c7c58_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726361261_14e02396a3_c-1.jpg

BUT the best part, got to take it around the block! Its in the driveway now! It looks so good where its sitting! now i need to flip the 02 in the garage so that i can get to the rear subframe and swap those now so that I'll have all the new parts on one chassis!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726608708_4512c1203b_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726361486_20d92f6972_c-1.jpg

These should have come with the hood scoop from the factory like the JDM car's got. it really goes with the chassis.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51726361456_d78c2860b0_c-1.jpg

On the to do list now.

Swap the power steering pump
finish installing all the xmas tree fasteners in the bumper on the fenders.
install JDM rain gaurds/spats
figure out the P0107 CODE issue.
put the trans subframe, brakes and wheels back on the 02 so that i can flip it around in the garage to access the rear subframe.
swap rear subframes this will take swaping the diffs as the 01 has a 4.11FD and the 02 has a 3.90FD cant mix and match the rear diff and the trans.
roll the fenders so i can fit 235's
4 wheel alignment

[lord flashheart]

Goddamn that looks good!

[xrayspecs]

It does look good, has me motivated to finish more of the small stuff on it.

More small work on the car, lots of little things to do so that it feels like my car.

Found the source of the P0107 code, and the hesitation at idle/off throttle. In my rush to put the air box back on one of the 6 times i took it on and off i forgot to reinstall the valve cover breathers. poped it back on and the motor is much happier now. no more instant P0107. still getting the P1507 code, going to start with changing the NSS on the transmission over since i know the one on the 02 is good.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51730393318_895e222e10_c-1.jpg
Removed the oem shift knob pulled the Hurst gray one of the '02. ill have to see about getting a black or all white one at some point to better match. ive always liked pool ball style shifters better than anything else. The gray will have to do for now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51729333262_359aac9d32_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51729333252_d0a6c2784a_c-1.jpg

Test fit the Custco bar, to make it fit on the 02 i had to space up the hood in the cowl area, not ideal as it can mess with the cooling on the car, since it is a high pressure area. i wanted to see if with the JDM hood it would clear the bottom since i hadnt put it on the 02 for a test fit yet.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51731031545_c268cb3e10_c-1.jpg

The JDM strut towers might be in a slightly different angle/position... as on the USDM chasis it runs into the hood as you can see the scratch here from setting the hood down lightly on it. ill run the solid strut bar that came with the car for now, but it needs to be painted a different color, maybe STI pink or all black. the white doesnt color matche the chassis and it bugs the hell out of me.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51730144276_691130a8b1_c-1.jpg

also installed the factory battery tie down, and noticed its majorly corroded on the bottom side. maybe time for an aluminum upgrade maybe go all Kartboy when i get the short throw shifter, the endlinks and pitch stop.

[xrayspecs]

More small work on the car after work when I get the time, lots going on this time of year that keeps pulling me away.

I need to find an aftermarket rad cowl that isnt bent, the custco will do for now but the bend in it still bugs me.. using the white strut bar for now. blacking it out is on the to do list.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51739398010_b978876e7a_c-1.jpg

As i wasnt sure if when I was going to be done taking the bumper on and off i had skipped installing the side supports and putting the fender and wheel liner clips on. Since i dont think the bumper will be coming off anytime soon i dug them out and put them on. also picture are the JDM wheel deflectors i had from the half cut, i was going to install them at the same time but it looks like the USDM strut and fender liners arent drilled for them. a project for another day. they went back into the spares pile.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51738508356_4b45e5c677_c-1.jpg

Fenders line up way better now! all the little finishing steps always take way more time than anticipated.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51739149169_ff367f0efe_c-1.jpg

Since I had dug them all out earlier, and am not planing to take the bumper off anytime soon, put the nice new bumper clips on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51737689007_d77d20f556_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51738748553_80083f5ee3_c-1.jpg

The car has been detailed great on the outside and for the floors/seats but is in need of a lot of unseen detail work. when the engine was out i spent a large chunk of time with the degreaser and scrubbers cleaning up on the firewall, subframe, and fenders. anywhere i could reach without removing more parts got a scrub. continuing in that the rear trunk rain gutters were filled with tree junk and dirt/sap mix of some sort, but a bit of cleaner and elbow grease and it mostly cleaned up. I need to get a few more detail burshes to be able to reach all the spots here and under the hood. Soon ill have to check all the moon roof drains to make sure they arent clogged with the same gunk.

Before, also added a save the stick sticker I had.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51739398215_6c629c86f3_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51738748578_2f7f3c38ee_c-1.jpg

After, also got the bottom lip of the trunk that was covered in the same stuff.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51738508351_84ed97c967_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51739149174_ba638812a0_c-1.jpg

More personal touches to the car, Added the Hella Supertones and put the front plate on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51738508256_007dd93b32_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51737689012_34012de6d4_c-1.jpg

As the hood latch has to come off to get the passanger side horn bolt off the car, I took the chance to better align the hood and bumper overlap and it's a much better fit now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51739398100_d85dc6f923_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Slow work as its been cold and rainy when I've had free time. I did manage to get a little break this weekend and disabled the DRL's and divorced the fog lights from the light stock so that they can be turned on with acc power and stay on with the high beams. The light control module on the GT/Outbacks is the vertical module next bolted to the steering column next to the 12V seatbelt timer module. The DRL module has two plugs a black one and a white one, the white connector on top needs to be removed and the DRL's will be disabled. Tuck the white connector back up into the harness and its all done. Much easier than it was on the '02 L. Also confirmed with the rain thats been happening that the moonroof drains are infact plugged, when driving around the block it dribbles all around the headliner trim. Once the rain clears I will have to clean out the rain gutters and drains.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747429303_9a5cfed1eb_c-1.jpg

This is the plug here that needs to be removed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747191171_d68a10fef0_c-1.jpg

Time to divorce the fog light switch from the headlight stock so that fogs stay on with high beams. Switch panel off. I am not sure what the wires on the right are for, as they all plug into a deadface on the front. If anyone knows what the 3rd switch on the right on the sedans is for I'd love to know, especially since whatever it is the whole harness looks to already be installed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51748068355_ba9b27b00f_c-1.jpg

Depined, black ground and yellow/black connections, jumpered and soldered toghether.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51748068260_4467392382_c-1.jpg

Heatshrinked up for reinstall.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747191271_bea12838b9_c-1.jpg


Fully indepenent fog lights now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747835424_36c5060646_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747429258_a5135faaca_c-1.jpg

I'm not vibing with the tall Drag lug nuts on the ARP studs, dont like this look, replacement short lug nuts are on the to buy list for sure now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747429213_547a16dda2_c-1.jpg

Much better daylight view of the hood/bumper overlap and the fender/bumper aligning perfect now! I need to pick the locks for the roof rack so that I can see how it looks without it, I didnt get the keys for the roof rack when I bought the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51746363277_2f4fde9947_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51748068380_4be9b317a8_c-1.jpg


Picture of the JDM cut off on the bulbs. You can see they are backwards to the USDM cut offs. I might eventually do the reflector black out that just makes the cut off flat. Its a lot of work as you have to bake and reseal the headlamps. Not sure how the misses feels about me baking car parts in the kitchen stove.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51746575842_11ba76b9ce_c-1.jpg

3/4 rear view, checking all the lights, the 3rd window and the wing light both work with the brake pedal. The door puddle lights on both sides work, the 02 L didnt have those, its a nice upgrade.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51748281095_c791d2b3e6_c-1.jpg

Car rear view. i need to get my DSLR out and grab some good standing shots of it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51747403926_da54297edc_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

havent been working on the as much with rain and the holidays havent had much time so tackled some of the little things. i havent been able to work on the 02 getting it back together to flip in around as i have a birdbath that froms in the garage when it rains super heavy.

With all the rain took the time to check the moonroof gutters, they looked pretty clear, and the drains were all unplugged, did a water check and they all dribbled out the respective spots at the bottom of the car which is good.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51776789607_a8a2b1b27a_c-1.jpg

While looking at the moon roof realized that the installed wind deflector had some huge piles of muck undeath and the window seal all the way around had a lot of dirt in it, figured that was contributing to a leaky seal as water was probably coming through that way.

wind deflector that is currently installed on the moonroof.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778495005_e7a19eaa11_c-1.jpg

You can see hear that the dirt goes right up to the window seal, this is part of the water ingress.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778495045_ec074eaae6_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778251864_d872d58ddd_c-1.jpg

All cleaned up, I put the wind defector back on for now, it may come off with the rack here in the future.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778251554_3dff278e91_c-1.jpg

Decided it was also time to swap the power steering pump as i dont enjoy hearing it whine.

While removing the power steering pump from the car the threads on one of the bolts for the bracket came out with the bolt. I knew that the install of the engine had gone to smooth.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51777854543_9676b8cc6d_c-1.jpg

location of the spicy suck spring, on the block. location not the greatest but its accessable.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778251859_9446f540ef_c-1.jpg

Removed power steering pump fromt he car, so that the unit can be replaced with the pump from the blown up motor.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51777854573_a6abbfdeba_c-1.jpg

All ready to go waiting on thread repair.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51777854608_3b75a98e02_c-1.jpg

Spoke with one of my friends on the repair, I was going to use a Helicoil for the threads, he suggested that I look into a Time-Sert. After some reseatch it looked like a better solution. It just took a while to ship out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778376717_b6f2c1e77e_c-1.jpg

Had to remove the rad, the a/c condensor, and main pully to get to the threads, once that was all out it was a really quick process to bore, ream, thread, and install the insert.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51776789857_fd6ed49009_c-1.jpg

checking and realizing the pully would need to come off.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778251924_1383347478_c-1.jpg

Thread repair inserts are steel. Uses a special driver to install.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51777854558_d353c41a17_c-1.jpg

Power steering pump installed and all back together. I also removed the air inject solenoid and bracket as the 01 ECU doesnt have any pin outs to control it on the engine plug on the B21/E2 connector and its useless. If the ecu keeps throwing codes and idling high (1000-1500) ill have to change the throttle body and the E2 Harness as the 01 MT E2 Harness is very different than the 02 MT harness thats on the engine. (sensors are all different). The car also has a engine cut at 6K rpm only in first. its odd.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51777854613_d0b0bc5739_c-1.jpg

While under the hood checkd all the plug wires to make sure they are all good, looks like the number 2 cylinder plug had some water intrusion. the plug wire was really corroded. so replaced the plug wires with those off the blown up engine and cleaned up the post with some sand paper till it was shiny again.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778251904_da2661ef76_c-1.jpg

Also as now Ive been driving the car I missed the timing on the steering ujoint by a spline or two based on where the car goes straing. I tried to adjust the timing, however with the car as low as it is now, cant get to the bottom pinch bolt on the ujoint as the CV is in the same space that a wrench needs to go to loosen it up. will have to reaign the wheel to the rack, here this week when i get the front end up to swap the NSS.

The steering wheel is off just a smidge.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2021/12/51778494905_634a400a1a_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

finished burping the cooling system tonight and took the car for a spin in the torrential down pour to make sure that it would stay cool and to check for moon roof leaks, good on both accounts as there was no dripping on the headliner for the 1/2 hour drive. looks like the previous leak was from a dirty moon roof seal and possibly the dirt sitting on the seal thats good news its fixed. downside is i noticed a at certain idle speed though that the cat hanger rubber is compelety worn out as the exhaust has a ring at certain rpm, i thought the cat hanger felt loose when i was under the transmission doing the shifter bushings. another thing to add to parts to grab from the 02.

[xrayspecs]

I took it on some small drives around to make sure everything is up to shape. sounds like i have a brake dust shieldin the front drivers side that got bent moving subframes around that is riding on a rotor. ill have to fix that when i get under the front agian. I also noticed that it sounded like the rear wheel bearings were starting to howl. Not unusuall for a 20 year old/180k mile bearings to be worn out. All the m ore motivation to finish swaping parts.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51796238155_b87f8beec1_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795510126_1f52276ef8_c-1.jpg


This lasted about a week before taking it all apart agian.

put the whole front back together on the '02 so that I could put it on the front wheels. once it was together It was a lot easier to sping the car on with the jack stands with no engine in the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795631643_6d6437034a_c-1.jpg

All ready to have the rear subframe removed with all the speed parts.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795879959_8aa91c6529_c-1.jpg

Rear subframe from the '02 with all the polymer and shocks out of the 02.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794563962_a477ea5a82_c-1.jpg

Pulled the '01 into the garage, I started to removed the trunk trim/appolstry bits and noticed there was water on the tire protector/board. Thats not great news. the spare tire well had some small puddle disculorations like it had gotten water in the past.... great.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795632503_3c1387e964_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795878114_f890fe24ff_c-1.jpg

Continued pulling with removing the rear floor mat, and the cover trim pieces on the trunk, felt the water on the insulation on the driver side of the trunk, followed it over and noticed. this puddle in the fender well..... I wonder how many times that has flilled up over the years.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795631933_1866a4d6ba_c-1.jpg

The piece for the car jack has swelled up and is moldy, so this has happend a few times it looks like.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795878639_a019d0a1ff_c-1.jpg

At first glance it was obvious the moonroof drain tube is not connected to the drain connection in the fender well.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51794562217_6d6437034a_c.jpg

After some swear words and fishing around in the car found the drain tube. thats a relief that I wont have to drop the head liner and fish a new one through the C-pillar.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51796243140_692634c77f_c-1.jpg

Put the drain line back in the fender vent, and sucked all the water out with a vaccum and dried out the fender well with some shop rags, doesnt look like theres any surface rust or anything anywhere. So glad I caught it now. Hopefully it stays put now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794683092_b5a31b0f0e_c-1.jpg

Passenger side was all in place as it should be.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795628991_e760cb6032_c-1.jpg

Whole rear subframe off the '01. After getting the subframe down all the bushings in the '01 were in the same state as all the old ones on the '02 were. I'd recon to say any 3rd gen legacy with over 100k miles needs all the rear link bushings replaced. Time has just gotten to them all.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795508761_db550cefb4_c-1.jpg

Nice view of the magnaflow axle back that came on the '01. Im not a big fan of the straight tip, might have that replaced with a pie cut 90° downturn in the future.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51796242775_4504d6d7f0_c-1.jpg

The two main parts needed from the '01 rear subframe is the whiteline rear sway bar, as its much heavier and the 4.11:1 rear diff to match the transmission. Another upgrade is the 4.11 from the limited has a VLSD in it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794564437_c592b71ed7_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795632428_97f155a283_c-1.jpg

Removed the diff and cleaned it up a bit. I think it has been over filled a few times, as the whole thing was coated in gear oil from the breather down.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795877999_89967711b8_c-1.jpg.

Subframe getting ready to go into the '01.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795631838_d75fe7f608_c-1.jpg

Whiteline rear swaybar on the car. Set the links to the stiffer setting of the start, why not since everything else is set to stiff right?
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795652521_014813dd78_c-1.jpg

4.11 rear diff installed and all ready to go into the car. you can also see the exhaust on the bumper here that is the reason i prefer downturns.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794706952_67ce726e82_c-1.jpg


So much goodness installed in '01 now. with the whiteline swaybars that were on the car I now have the full whiteline catalog for bushings on this car. In the process of working on the car, facebook reminded me that 5 years ago as well i was working on the '02.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51796241495_8d28c4940e_c-1.jpg

Took some time and cleaned all the brake dust off the wheels. once i get the car aligned and the fenders all rolled. These will be going up for sale. i dont need 2 sets of rims and tires.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794563782_c55179e623_c-1.jpg

Installed the rear Cusco strut bar. decieded not to trim the rear trim panels for the bar, i dont ever put anything in the trunk and this aint a show car so its not a big deal. nice that this one has the oem option turn net.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794564402_b229e891ae_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794563802_9008635e9e_c-1.jpg

Also dug out all the fasterners and parts for the JDM factory option rear spats. I bought these on here off another member a few years back and never paint matched them green or installed them on the '02 theyve been in the parts pile for some time. I also have the matching fronts but havent installed them yet. Nice that theyre white and have never been installed before. I think these are the BH option ones as the fit is a little different on the bottom back inside once they were installed. but honestly its not to bad. all the instructions are a nifty little bulletin to have for the car build folder. Nothing like some rare option oem pieces. now if only I could find the font lip option spoiler kit in white.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795631783_55fcf18e65_c-1.jpg
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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51795879229_5d054de601_c-1.jpg

It lives, runs and drives like a whole new car. need to take it for an alignment this week so that I can take it on longer drives than around the block.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794563817_15122acb2f_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51794563412_26663319b9_c-1.jpg

left on the to-do for the parts, the car is still thowing the same two engine codes, from the MIL. so Ill have to change the throttle body so the 01 ecu can idle the car correctly and run right. also need to swap the NSS for the front. Also need to swap the head unit from my 02 to the 01 or buy a new one so I can have car play. Last is move over the Wink mirror to the 01. then itll be driving it till I finish some other projects.

[xrayspecs]

Been super busy on this as the more work I do on it and the more finished it gets for this stage of work, the more and more fun it is to drive and the better the car sounds, feels and handles.

Raised up the front tonight and checked on the squeek. Reclocked the timing for the steering wheel to the rack and pinion input shaft so that when I take it to align later this week they dont use the tie rods to straight the wheel out and have the rack wayyyy off center. Also replaced the NSS with the known good switch off the '02. Installed the front jdm spats as well and did the first full tank fill up on the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798339523_af0c68b841_c-1.jpg

Source of the scatching sound that I noticed after putting the rear end in. I couldnt hear it before over the ps noise, the rear wheel bearing whine and the heat sheild rattle. Lucky the scratch is just on the surface and the dust shield took most of the wear. bent the dust shield back to where it should be and the sound was gone when turning the front wheels by hand. the other rattle i had was the muffler in the rear being off one of the hangers and twisting the midpipe into the heat shields. I think when backing out of my driveway it knocked the hanger loose as the tip contacts the street if i dont come at an angle.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798583639_93c93d8e69_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798946805_6c75123da5_c-1.jpg

Installing the front spats was not as smooth as the rears. While the rear bumper for already had holes in the bumper in the correct locations for all the supplied j-fasteners and clips in the JDM kit. The front did not have the back too holes for holding the nutserts shown on the diagram on the sheet shown here. I installed the front J clip, added some additional 3m tape on the inside bottom where the fastners go. once it was all installed I drilled the side sill tirm with a 1/8th bit and used the supplied screws to just screw right to the sill tirm to hold the spat on the inside. One thing i dont usually see since everyone gets these second hand is they reuse the clip on the front fender well to hold the spat down. the JDM ones use a j clip and a metric fastener with washer to hold the spat/sill/fender all togeher. this gets nice and snug and keeps there from being any big gaps.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798583709_e52c334433_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51799126555_027159bc24_c-1.jpg

Missing square holes for plastic nutserts on the USDM side sills. under this tab is where I added additional trim tape.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798946830_37c1340880_c-1.jpg

Picture of post install of the sill and fasnteners
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798583669_838548e52b_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51797267332_a4d4ae8756_c-1.jpg

And because gas station lighting just hits hard and I just looks so damn good now I had to take pictures.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798520388_d122fae086_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798946820_28b310b5fe_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51797449002_a165ab8a28_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51798763914_779fd81528_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

So spent a fair amount of time calling and driving around to all the alignment shops in what I consider a reasonable distance from my house to get an alignement apointment. I got a combination of our lift isnt low enough, to we dont touch after market suspension parts or we dont touch lowered cars. found one shop that had an infloor but there booked out for a while. So resorted to a method i havent used since high school. strings on a stick with jack stands, a steel ruler, a straight edge, ratchet straps and a digital angle gauge. Set the camber to 1.5° in the front and 1.6° in the rear, initially had around 1/2" of toe out on both the front and the rear with a thrust angle towards the passangers side. got the toe set to an 1/8" toe in total so 1/16" per wheel and my patience wore out before i could get it any tighter. i also tried to center the steering wheel and overshot the take up on the tie rods. But again my patience wore out before i could get it centered 100%.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51805843827_ffce122523_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51807159349_9b0b85987b_c-1.jpg

Also found the source of the recurring passanger foot well rattle, muffler hanger keeps working its way off the hanger shown here. the aftermarket hanger dowesnt have a mushroom on it to keep it secured. ill have to get that fixed, as its a minor nucance to have to put back on.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51806800706_d9f64264bc_c-1.jpg

Well I got the car aligned and driving, its not twitchy, its nice and balanced and has amazing turn in and stays flat as can be. spring rates i picked are a tad bit agressive on the freeway, the car feels like a roller coaster on the bucks and heves of the highway. but its crazy how responsive this chassis is when its spruced up. I had to go into my office and one of the great canyon runs is 20 min away so instead of sitting in traffic I decided why not go over and run it. Saw a handfull of supercars, a ton of civis and a few MR-2's on the way up. was late enough in the day i didnt have anyone to chase down the hill and just enjoyed the drive. was the perfect timing to stop for some pictures too as all the pull outs were empty. in the words me and my friend say..... Canyons Canyons Canyons.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51805843852_596fa83b73_c-1.jpg
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https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51807159489_383380df86_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Two more checklist items that are small nucesnces to me got the parts in to address. Throttle body gasket and pump orings.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826364006_791161b10a_c-1.jpg

The power steering pump still has a whine when cold and on turn in loads. The reservoir is also foaming quite a bit. As all the soft lines were changed to new on the systems, and the pump I installed measured in spec for shaft play. It was relativley quick to get the pump suction snout off and the orings off. They were so crispy they just broke the moment I put an oring removal tool on them. If you have a cold start power steering pump whine I would start with these orings, they were $4.31 from the dealer p/n 34439AE00A.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826436928_da31dea440_c-1.jpg
New orings went right on and in, no more power steering pump whine now. glad that it is fixed and didnt need to get another pump to swap.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826327281_643a5100d4_c-1.jpg

Next onto the throttle body swap. The ECU doenst like the throttle body and idle air control valve from the 02. and contines to throw idle error codes. Looking at the harnesses and the digrams I was hoping that he two engine connector plugs wouldnt be loomed togehter, but they are.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51825381597_389165c0e5_c-1.jpg
Wiring loom from the 01 engine in the garage off.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51827092710_dbf69332c1_c-1.jpg

Some of the differences between 02 to 01 on the air cleaner box, the PCV system routing pieces.
The 01 has a sensor on the box, and an additional molded spot for the PCV lines.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51825381702_78ca8fb07f_c-1.jpg
PCV y splitter for the extra PCV line on the air box
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51827093220_b7ec19c29f_c-1.jpg
The 02 doenst have them.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51825419162_c92ece985d_c-1.jpg

Both wiring looms out.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826365726_3fee0605bf_c-1.jpg

Kept the 02 throttle body on till everything was ready to go, so the coolant lines dont drip everywhere in the engine bay.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51825381762_d88134defc_c-1.jpg

Close up you see the difference in the throttle bodys.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826473953_f838fe6d7e_c-1.jpg

The 02 throttle body the ECU didnt like.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51827091840_8a5bc1b4eb_c-1.jpg

The 01 throttle body so the EUC will be happy and the car will stop running rich/rough/idleing high.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826472838_2d7465350b_c-1.jpg

The only connector that ill have to swap is the power steering pump pressure switch plug, the 01 has a 2 pin connector the plug connector from the 02 has a single pin connector. No codes are being thrown so not to worried about this connector for now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51826707704_7e4bbcab93_c-1.jpg

Took the better part of a day to swap the engine harness but now the car idles as it should at 750ish, doesnt studder or die when cold started. It also doesnt smell like its running super rich. This should improve the MPG ive been seeing too.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51827055135_c5f735922d_c-1.jpg

Left on the check list for things to do are all minor items now.

roll fenders so the 235's will fit with out rubbing
Swap the head unit from the 02 over so i have an actual AUX input might upgrade to a airplay unit in the future.
make new wink mirror brackets and install the 5 panel wink mirror.
put together a forsale thread for all the spares I dont plan to keep.

[xrayspecs]

More of just driving this old car. Currently waiting a date to get the fenders rolled. Continually impressed with how well it handles.

Drove the 243 and 74. Cars driving flawlessly now with the correct throttle body.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51840481708_8f8621ab42_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51841101080_d38bc75dfd_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

More small updates, took the car to get smoged for reg, after pulling the car in the smog guy had 100 questions on the car cause of how stiff it is. Car passed smog no problem.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51849980207_9e7b1c0deb_c-1.jpg

After some looking around online, and seeing most of the decent sub 1k carplay head units were currently sold out or backordered. Decided to pull the older Pioneer head unit out of the 02 and put it in the 01. It was neat to have the OEM unit, but I need to have an Aux input for long commutes.

OEM double Din unit.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851012148_d95e37cb66_c-1.jpg

Pioneer unit pulled out of the 02.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851272164_151e0d703b_c-1.jpg

Removing the shifter bezel and trim, found some missing clips.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851596605_78c63b6fac_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851272224_6cb064fdbe_c-1.jpg

To the 02 in the garage to pull off the missing clips.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851012218_d6f255eee8_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851012528_d990d4ed9d_c-1.jpg

Shifter rubber seal properly held down again.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851596695_88ac263e07_c-1.jpg

Bezzle trim clips added back.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851272339_c0fe0b0816_c-1.jpg

New old head unit installed and ready to go. The speakers sound way better with this unit that the oem unit, at somepoint ill upgrade to carplay, and get sone nice aftermarket speakers and sub/amp.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/01/51851012333_43e17cc455_c-1.jpg.

Have an appointment coming up with someone to roll the fenders all around so thatll be the next big work.

[xrayspecs]

Well gotten about 700 miles in the car now as set up, I really like the spring rates, and konis together and all the polymer isnt so noisey it bugs me. I did get the roof rack off. The previous owner didnt have the keys for the roof rack so had to pick the locks to get them off.

Nothing like a small dyi pickset for the locks.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862671844_d881b25485_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862338966_eceae917e0_c-1.jpg

The soft feet on the roof rack have started to get gummy and sticky. If i put the rack back on they will have to be replaced as they are coming apart. they left a ton of residue on the paint. Havent gotten it all off but theres probably some damage to the paint from the bases. The moonroof deflector also has left some paint damage where the seal is up against the paint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862671749_c07ee4b65b_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862338901_c5819c26a2_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862671744_151004b381_c-1.jpg

Car looks much more put together with no rack or deflector. Car needs a deep clean and a wax now for the paint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862422223_c0901b8b52_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51862422183_c40f7ffbe0_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

As the original first posting is now out of date since now that I have a whole new car the 2001 Legacy GT-Limited. Its time to put together a new build parts list as not everything was moved over or reused between cars and milage


Purchased the 01 GT Limited sedan in October of 2021, its in great shape outside and in. Car had a non running engine, that I later found out had dropped 2 valves on cyl 4 and broke the rocker arm on cly 3. Cly 1 and 2 the cam was galled up. Took almost everything off my 02 from the previous posts and installed the parts onto the 01.

2001 Legacy GT-L Build sheet as of 04/05/2022.

I keep a detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything I have installed and added into a list here and the milage it was installed at, milage all updated to reflect the 01 odometer readings. Previous car milage added as a note if the parts had use on them already.

Chassis/Suspension:

Subframes/front and rear from 2002 moved to 2001 as complete units.

Timken Rear unit wheel bearings (p/n 512183 ) previous milage 28k installed at 183k miles.

Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.

Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) at 183k

Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) at 183k

Subaru OEM power steering pump from 2001 engine (p/n )

Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) at 183k

Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) at 183k

Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) at 183k

Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) at 183k

Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776 ) at 183k

Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) at 183k

Derale high temperature hose 11/32” x 25” to get cooler in front of radiator (p/n 259-13007 ) at 183k

Subaru power steering pump suction o-rings (p/n 34439AE00A ) at 183K

Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) at 183k

Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) at 183k

Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) at 183k

Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) at 183k

Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) at 183k

Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) at 183k

ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) at 183K



Koni Yellows assembly part numbers below all installed at 183K:

Front Struts.

Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT
OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts.
Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100
Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250
Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450
Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147


Rear Shocks

Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT
Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007
Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1
Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0
Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400
Whiteline 20mm sway bar X-Heavy (p/n WLBSR12XZ ) at unk came with car.

Whiteline 20mm sway bar heavy duty (p/n WLBSF14 ) at unk came with car.

Kartboy solid sway bar end links front and rear(p/n KB-017-Front KB-017-STi-R) at 185K.

Vorshlag 17mm hex lugnuts (p/n 12mm Hex M12-1.25) at 185k.

Subaru Rear Nut rear shock lower mount (p/n 20550AA010) at 185K

Subaru Washer rear shock lower mount (p/n 900335056) at 185K

Subaru Bolt Flange rear shock lower mount (p/n 901000177) at 185K

Beck Arnley Wheel Nut (p/n 103-0504 ) at 198k.

Timken Wheel Seal (p/n 710464) at 198k.

Timken Wheel Bearing Front Pass side (p/n 517008) at 198k.

Timken Wheel Seal (p/n 710463) at 198k.



Engine:

Rebuilt heads and short block pervious milage 52k installed at 183k miles.

Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) pervious milage 35k installed at 183k miles.

Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header (p/n MS95088 ) pervious milage 24k installed at 183k miles.

Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.

Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.

Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) at 183k

Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.

Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.

Timsert M8X1.25 Thread repair for power steering pump threads on block (p/n 1812 ) at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM intake filter (p/n 16546AA07A) at 183k miles.

Mahle throttle body gasket (p/n G31760 ) at 183k miles.

Felpro manifold gaskets and replacement 2 hole gaskets (p/n MS95088) at 183k miles.

Prestone premix 50/50 fluid for replacement at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM V belt AC 18x6x887 (p/n 809218260 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM AC Belt (p/n 73323AC000) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing belt large cover (p/n 13570AA12B) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing belt left side back cover (p/n 13575AA12A ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing crankshaft sprocket (p/n 13021AA17A ) at unk came with car.

Magnaflow muffler with 2.25” catback (p/n 14829 ) at unk came with car.

Kartboy battery tiedown (p/n KB-100-BT) at 185k

Duralast ignition wire set (p/n 94148) at 187k

Subaru Duct Air Intake (p/n 46012AE02A ) at 189K

Subaru Engine Air Intake Hose. Engine Air Intake Resonator. Chamber (p/n 46040AE01A) at 189k

Subaru Engine Air Intake Hose. ASSEMBURY. Duct. (p/n 46010AE00C) AT 189k

Subaru OEM Mid-Pipe from Green BE, (p/n 44200AE04A) at 196k.

Walker Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket (p/n 31362 & 31388 ) at 196k.

Murry Radiator Cap (p/n MCS7516) at 197k.

Dorman exhaust bolts (p/n 03114) at 198k.

KartBoy Pitch Stop, Black (p/n KB-015-Pitch) at 203k





Drivetrain:

Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.

Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urethane (p/n 9563 ) at 183k

Subaru Remanufactured OEM Axles (p/n 42072PA010) at unk came with car.





Brakes:

Subaru OEM rear brake disk (p/n HML020916 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM rear brake pad (p/n 26700AE04C ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM front brake pad kit (p/n 26296AE220 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM front disc rotor (p/n 26300AE00C ) at unk came with car.



Interior:

Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) at 183k

Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles

Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles

KARKBOY Dead Pedal, Black (p/n KB-100-Pedal-Blk) at 203k



Exterior:

DRL’s disabled from use at 183k

Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Super tones pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, for fenders, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails at 183k

Subaru OEM REV D aero rain guards with OEM mounting hardware not 100% on the part number as the installation instructions list the following, and I can’t read the instructions (p/n J1017AE151## J1017AE152## J1017AE153## J1017AE154## J1017AE174## J1017AE155## J1017AE175## J1017AE156## J1017AE176## ) 183K

Subaru OEM Under splash cover (p/n SOA966H1100R1 ) at unk came with car.

Replacement Windshield (p/n 56410AW06A ) at unk came with car.

Replacement windshield molding (p/n FW02154GTNN ) at unk came with car.

All four coners fenders shaved and rolled at 185k.

Sylvania high beam bulbs (p/n H1ST.BP2 H1 ) at 185k.

Philips low beam bulb HID/Xeon bulbs (p/n D2R ) at 185k.

HELLA fog light bulb (p/n H3 YL ) at 185k.

License plate frame Matte black parts store special(p/n UNK) at 185k.

Subaru JDM Smoked rear garnish and tails ( p/n unk ) at 189k.

Yakama SKS Lock Cores for Roof Rack with new keys (p/n YAK8007204) at 190k

HELLA fog light bulb (p/n H3 130WTB) at 196k.

License Plate Adapter Holder for JDM to US Conversion, Black (p/n unk) at 203k.



Wheels/Tires:

Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 5x100pcd

VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17 at 185k.

Fast WRX Mach 5 wheel spacer 5mm thick in the rear (p/n Mach V) at 185k

Halex 2 in knock-out seal for center cap (p/n 60720 ) at 185K

Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 SL 235/45ZR-17 at 203k.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/02/51872589805_227c70d64a_c-1.jpg

[thenines']

Dam clean/sweet ride

[xrayspecs]

Thanks, its been a labor of love for way to long, but it drives exactly how I had hoped it would.

- - - Updated - - -

No major updates on the car lately, been short staffed at work so I havent been able to take an afternoon to keep a appointment to have the fenders rolled... but more commuting i do the more i like how ive set the car up. needs some better brakes..

Im still loving how the car sits and looks for the most part!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51913395557_35736af312_c-1.jpg

Also picked up some bug/tar remover for the gummy silicon stuck to the roof from the melted roof rack pads. This stuff worked great.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51914456358_15c6b71419_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51914456298_51e620242b_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

More updates!

After getting a dozen tanks of gas though this and the roofrack and moonroof deflector off, managing to get an average of 23 MPG combined. not as good as the 02, but ill chalk that up to the 4.11's. would be nice to have the 3.90's on the freeway, but withough finding another OEM LSD or buying an aftermarket unit to put in the open 3.90 its not worth the effort right now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51943782931_9a03761863_c-1.jpg

Took some degreaser to the underside of the hood and engine bay to get any spots I missed or touched when putting the car together.

Before.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944104849_2a966529c1_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51942801242_bcc1148565_c-1.jpg

After, still not perfect but much improved.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944161719_c387b7aeae_c-1.jpg

Big news thought! finally got the car rolled, front and rear! Went on a recomendation from some local car people I know. the guy was great to work with. Talking with him while he worked he thought it was cool to see this car as not a lot of them are around. He did say that with a little camber and work the chassis could fir 265's on 17x9's... but that would require a really agressive offset, and a pull on the front fenders.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51943867693_08aec7d2f0_c-1.jpg

But now I can run my 235's with no wory of shreadding them or the fenders! Car is looking so much better to me now!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51943783016_2467985068_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944395360_e99444cde6_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944104989_27e153d0b0_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944395345_72008a5dfd_c-1.jpg

The fit on the front is perfect, I'm thinking a 5mm spacer in the rear will bring it out to where Its flush as well.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51942801097_578fc76faa_c-1.jpg

[thenines']

I feel you with the 4.11 / 3.90's and getting all the crud off of the underside of the hood is a PITA! no matter what color the hood is!

[xrayspecs]

Gas prices keep it up, ill be buying a LSD to put in the car with the 3.90 stuff on my garage floor! the hood underside was stuck on, took the better part of a quart of degreeser to get it to the state its in now!

[xrayspecs]

So more small parts came in this week and have slowly put them on as time permits.. i have updated the parts list accordingly. These will probably be the last parts added for a while, the time has come to enjoy this car!

The rear wheel needed to come out a bit more so that it looked less tucked, this has always been a problem with these cars, people all handle it differently, but I added some 5mm spacers to the rear to get a more aggressive fitment of the rpf1. Went with
Fastwrx Mach v spacers, little disappointed with them as the description and pictures show they have a laser engraved part number, and thickness on the spacer so you dont have to measure them if you forget what they are in the future. these ones only had the bcd, and it was just silkskreened. they fit fine and work as intended.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51958144990_58e3b66dde_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51957558991_c702157d9a_c-1.jpg

Before rear wheel.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959345220_186dbca629_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51944104989_27e153d0b0_c-1.jpg

After with 5mm spacers on a 17x8+45 RPF1. probably could do another 3mm to get a tighter to the fender, but im happy as is for now.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959057989_470a610a25_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51958737576_ec8f023213_c-1.jpg

I also picked up some center caps for the RPF1's.... well did the 2" electrical knockout plugs from the hardware store. they fit great, and dont missmatch tobad with no paint. Ill have to make some decals on my cricuit for them so they match better.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51957656033_1e541cb386_c-1.jpg

installed on the RPF1's you do need to spread the ears out a tad to get them to stay tight.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959321860_ded229c045_c-1.jpg

Also picked up some Vorshlag subaru lug nuts, the oem ones I've been using are getting a little worn out and the cheap aftermarket ones that came on the car were crunchy at best.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51957856499_c1f614f439_c-1.jpg

Also picked up some kartboy parts for the sway bars and to replace the rusty battery strap. they even came with the fireball!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51958179475_09d12128d9_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51957891299_53d73fdda8_c-1.jpg

Installed battery strap.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51958844833_b35a92ae49_c-1.jpg

Comparison of the rear sway links vs the kartboy links.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51957856549_62177af34a_c-1.jpg

Rear links installed.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51958800593_ac5467053a_c-1.jpg

Had some help moving the car around!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959321925_4011269c14_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Didnt get to the front sway bar links till last night, all 4 of the links in the kit from kartboy take a larger 17mm bolt top and bottom the backs went on no problem. The front lowers on the stamped arms takes a 12mm bolt. This required drilling out the arms to 7/16" to clear the shank on the larger fastener, and a little massaging to open up the location to fit the wider bushing on the kartboy's.

Size difference on the oem fronts vs the kartboy.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51960523713_b9285288e3_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959460697_9449c71542_c-1.jpg

drilling out the lower link bolt location
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51961029530_ec2ff6640a_c-1.jpg

How much the swaybar location needs to be massaged.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959460677_70a3f07298_c-1.jpg

Installed with the kartboy front endlink spacers on against the bar to keep the link perpendicular to ground.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/03/51959460667_7bee070c96_c-1.jpg

Took the car on a quick rip around the industrial park by my house, the cross chassis stiffness these add is definattly noticable especially when going through rain gutters while turning.

[xrayspecs]

Well, some bad news today, had the day off, and decided to catch up on some maintance on my Honda. Had some time left and decided since I don't have reciepts or any idea when the fluids for the gearbox and diff were last serviced that I should do them. As ive now got 1400 miles on the car. When I first got the car driving, the gear box did not like to go into 1st or reverse, especially when cold and just started. Engine was also due for a oil change, and filter. No suprises there.

As this was a full oils change, put the whole car up on stands level.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52006452722_596dfe3afe_c-1.jpg

Where the bad news starts. I pulled the drain plug for the Trans.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52007723124_b63e30426e_c-1.jpg

Well there's the cuplrit of the stubborness to go into gear. odd as theres been no whining/popping out of gear or other hiccups.

Well its still not great as this came from somewhere. After the state of all the other mechanical items I receieved the car in I guess that I should have checked the transmission and diff. Thats on me for not being more stringent after the blown motor in the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52007529043_d255dbf701_c-1.jpg

Man the smell of burnt and old 90w makes my spine shiver. Who knows how many miles this has on it, it was about the viscosity of old motor oil. I filled it back up with new 80w-90w to the fill line.... I guess time will tell if the transmission will stay together.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52007528963_cec7da34ac_c-1.jpg

Lucky the rear diff seams to be in better shape. Thats good news if I have to use the 3.9 transmission out of the 02 I can swap the VLSD center over.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52007474521_8061f2bd80_c-1.jpg
N

Not perfect, and probably over due for a change, but not terrible for a rear end with 186k on it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52007474546_4b58345156_c-1.jpg

After fill up took it for a quick 20 mile drive and everything seams to be okay. Not sure where the chunks came from, but im sure ill find out soon enough.

[xrayspecs]

Finally got some more free time to installing some more parts that I've been sitting on for a while.

Bought all new bulbs for the jdm parts as no clue how old the bulbs are for the headlamps/fogs and dont want them just randomly going out or dimming on me.

Hella Yellow H3 bulbs for the Fogs, These were a pain to install as the whole assembly is behind stuff I didnt want to remove...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52035901361_54952946f7_c-1.jpg

Installed them throught the fog shroud trim.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52034862662_6665b084f3_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52038867651_82030c20ba_c-1.jpg

Night shot against my garage door, so far like how they look at night.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52034861637_29c933e3c4_c-1.jpg

This is the first time I've had HID headlamps in anything. These were way expensive. Went with the Pillips Units. replaced the Highbeams with Silvania h1's nothing crazy there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52034862277_53bfda9417_c-1.jpg

New bulb on the left old bulb on the right, both old bulbs had signs of age on them when they came out.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52036419890_b7890b05d1_c-1.jpg

Night shot against the garage door, note the cut off being in the incorrect direction. at some point ill bake the lights and black out the cut off so I dont blind oncoming traffic, but not today.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52036420540_2744baa72c_c-1.jpg

Also got some cheap matte black plate frames, matches the black trim and car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52037823417_818775e2ab_c-1.jpg

Look pretty good on the car.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52039128829_cef117e019_c-1.jpg

Front plate is a bit off... thanks too the JDM from plate spacing for nuts is
wider. Plate frame helps hid the obvious fact that I had to redrill the front to make it fit. I plan to get vanity plates this summer, and when they come in ill make a bracket so that I dont have to do this to that plate.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/04/52039128984_996263a574_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Well last of the parts from the 02 made its way over. finished up making brackets for the 5 panel wink mirror to replace the sun shades and the factory flip mirror.

The old brackets i made the first go around I didnt like how they looked and didnt push the mirror far enough forward. little CAD (cardboard) and started here with some scrap alum I had.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/05/52065430064_310a1c3521_c-1.jpg

All cleaned up. I dont have a wire wheel on had so flapper disk on the ol death wheel to clean them up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/05/52064154912_5814075db3_c-1.jpg

All the nessisary hardware. added some small spacers to the backside so i dont mark the headliner where the bracket mounts up.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/05/52065212858_43b979791e_c-1.jpg

Removed the sun shades, as this was the very top of the line for '01 it had dual lighted vanity mirrors! the pinicle of luxury. tucked the harness away into the shell... hope if I have to i can pull that back out someday.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/05/52065687375_32b42aa35e_c-1.jpg


Installed, need to still adjust the mirror fully a bit so I can see the drivers side lane from it but has a great view of everything else.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2022/05/52065196661_17396c0ba4_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Its been a while, not major updates really to the car.

Have a few parts in the garage that will eventually go on the car when I get the motivation.

Transmission still doesnt like to shift from 2-3 or 4-3 while on it hard in the canyons so that will eventually get changed to the spare.

But still taking it out as much as I can. Azusa Canyon and other mountain pass runs this summer after work were plentiful. Just now coming up on a much needed fluids change at 3k miles.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484158014_b049f3e87b_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nXR2E7)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484347850_392c901cbd_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nXS169)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484441608_c35cfaa9aa_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nXStXE)

Went to the Eibach Import night they hosted back in August. Also attended a few other local cars n coffee events. Car gets thumbs up's but never draws a crowd which I don't mind at all.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52483389347_e17de7a072_c-1.jpg[/url]

For a old car still cleans up pretty damn well.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52483390962_af2e7d9a95_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nXM6D5)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484441643_02c8b3da0b_c-1.jpg

Had a random issue with a misfire for a bit, found the cause... replaced the plug wire and coil pack, need to go around and check all the grounds.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484353890_fe396036a0_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nXStYg)

Also need to finish stripping this thing for all the space so its not just taking up space. Lots of stuff that needs to get removed and put up in the attic.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/01/52484348065_684d617549_c-1.jpg

[AssYriaNrocKer]

Dude....great build thread. Love the attention to detail.

Subscribed.

-RONI-
:headbang:

[BD5_Legacy_RSb]

update pls....

[xrayspecs]

Not much to update driven it about 4k miles the last year. I just drive it on sundays now and then since i have a truck for work.

Ive got a STI 5mt Short throw shift kit for it sitting on my work bench, and have been parting down my green 02 for spares and will probably rebuild the transmission for a spare as thisone is got bearing whine when its cold started.

Right now i need to make a pick a part trip for a OEM intake snorkus, since the SMOG guy flagged the damn PVC intake as non-compliant.

Not much in the way of pictures for now. when it stops raining ill probably do the shift kit and update with pictures.

[ryu_haneda]

Thank you for posting. Appreciate having activity in the community. :)

[xrayspecs]

Small update, been collecting other parts for some major work in the summer here when i get my whole garage back.

Changed all the gear oil at the 3k mile oil change, diff oil and magnet cleared up, however the transmission still has flakes and chunkies in the oil, meaning the spare transmission I have will probably have to go in sooner rather than later. Cold morning starts I can hear the input shaft bearing whinning as well... this transmission is need of some major TLC.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52873941061_3c7472200b_c-1.jpg

Transmission plug and clean off. Due to the flakes of metal stuck to it that look like bearing race hard facing, ill probably change the gear oil again next oil change interval.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52874114254_35a3e46f85_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52874114304_56909d9755_c-1.jpg

Diff looked much better so will probably just let it go normal change interval.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52874385318_3beb7dc436_c-1.jpg

Had a fun little sidewall puncture and blow out from ruts on the freeway here in LA that pop up in the rain, that was a fun day. lucky nothing else was damaged from the rut.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52865022005_8997db304b_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52873360457_21a429837f_c-1.jpg

Also found out due to the massive amount of rain we got this winter that California got that the front drip lines were plugged and flodding back through the ac air inlet into the cab, as well as the condensor drain line being plugged up. Should have known since the moonroof lines were also plugged when I got the car. Used compressed air to blow it out, but i really should take the cowl and fenders off to clean out all the gunk thats in there.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52873360502_064f5b7921_c-1.jpg

The great state of California sent me notice that for reg renewal that I would need to get smog again. Took the car into smog only to have the tech tell me the pvc intake tube I kept on the car was a "modified airbox". Took the oportunity to make a few junkyard tips to get the OE intake snorkle parts as I no longer had them from the 02 Chasis.

the best is when the cars are in the stall they actully listed them in online.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52865070553_cbae738a31_c-1.jpg

Found what I was looking for, lucky to find a early equipment non rubber boot intake hose which is awesome cause I won't have to worry about it rotting out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52865070358_e900415d9e_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52873265082_d93345ff50_c-1.jpg

Precleanup.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52865022680_e4f924d01a_c-1.jpg

All cleaned up and installed. OEM intake. crazy how much quiter inside the car it is with the factory parts for the intake. Im going to leave them on for a few tanks and see if they make any change to the milage I get with the car.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52864052932_c530153913_c-1.jpg

Car wiating on me to get the motivation for the parts that have been piling up on my workbench.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52864797389_61eeea89e0_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52873360522_ba92a79f2f_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Small update, been to busy with work and life to do any big parts installs lately.

But got a complete set of JDM tails and garnish in really good shape!

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52939359365_b3bf99e72f_c-1.jpg

USDM OEM Tails.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52939425268_ff12542f9c_c-1.jpg

Differenece in the color between the tails.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52939117474_18279b783a_c-1.jpg

All installed, Legacy garnish complete, just need to find a really good condition front OEM option lip for the bumper and the outside will be done.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2023/05/52939425313_b660568147_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Well almost a year later, its just been on weekend driver duty, hit the mountain roads and other drives as I can. This winter project was the garage, I wanted the space back and to add insulation as well as HVAC to the garage space.

The Green '02 was made rollable, all the spares I figured I'd need were stripped (transmission, diff, misc. interior parts) and stored. Then contacted LKQ to come pick up what was left to take to the pick a part.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671715478_f607af363e_c-1.jpg

Away it goes forever.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671399131_0f4c7deef4_c-1.jpg

Also had the first big road trip in the 01 since putting it together. Weekend trip with my son for a travel hockey tournament, nice long drive to San Jose and back from LA. Had to do something about the exhaust though, the exhaust shop mid pipe with no resonator and the small Magnaflow drone excessively between 3-5k on the highway and I was not going to tolerate it for 7 hours one way let alone two. One of the spares I held onto was the OEM mid pipe and muffler. Also found that the exhaust had been leaking for a bit so timing worked out.

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After looking at the mid pipes side by side it looked like the oem would bolt right up with the magnaflow muffler and it did so went with that combination. Can confirm after the drive, no highway drone between 60-90 mph and still keeps some exhaust sound around for the car, I think long term I'm going to fab a new mid pipe up a diameter with a resonator in the same location as oem so get a little more sound and no cabin drone. Also took the same time to rotate tires and an oil change.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671611678_54631206a1_c-1.jpg

Also had one fog lamp burn out so replaced them with some high outputs for the drive because you don't road trip with lamps out and was easy to get to with the car in the air.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53670518832_1da62bae13_c-1.jpg

Also noticed the tires starting to get a little camber wear during rotation, running 2.5 deg of camber all the way around on the street is a bit spirited, so took it for an alignment and got it dialed in at 1.5 front/rear with neutral toe.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671397851_be182c5e69_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

The car did great all the way up and back to San Jose. Just set the cruise at 80 and ticked the miles off. Car cruised along great and stayed cool running and inside with the AC running despite it being 90 deg through most of the trip through central valley. Only complaint was the lack of power from rolling from 70 too try and overtake traffic on the long 5% uphill grades, who knows maybe ill start getting parts together for a turbo swap, the BAR requirements here will make it a bit of pain in the ass.

Stopped to stretch our legs at San Luis Reservoir walked down to see the stinky water and take a break from the interstate.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671398256_1d2fe5ef6b_c-1.jpg

We had a afternoon free to ourselves so decided to drive over to the Red Woods in Santa Cruz and took the scenic root from San Jose. Took a few hours round trip and hit the twisty roads for the better part of 2 hours. Started at Mt Eden Road and connected it to Stevens Canyon Road. We stopped at a pull out to look at a small water fall and take in the scenery.

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From there connected it to SR 9 and drove it to Sempervirens Point Parking place to walk around. There was a bunch of other cars parked in the area. but didn't bother to look or interact as rather take in the view.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53672258229_cf39caf525_c-1.jpg

Anyways kept on going down the 9 to big basin and the Redwood Grove by Boulder Creek, finished up turning around on the 9 and cutting across Bear Creek Road to Skyline Boulevard then back to San Jose. This was some great driving spent a solid hour or two walking around the Red Woods, will have to go back to the area and camp in the area as it was more to take in than I could in a few hours in the afternoon.

Subaru Legacy on the Forest Moon of Endor.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53671398706_b847654acd_c-1.jpg

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[Muse]

That's a sharp-looking ride you've got, and it damn well oughtta be, after all the work you've put into it. Truly astounding.

[xrayspecs]

Thanks, it took me long enough to get it there. shes showing her age though and could use a respray but not till i get another car will that happen.

[xrayspecs]

Well went to get lunch on saturday, nice day out and while waiting in the drive through noticed "im in danger"

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53687195447_911e91b41b_c-1.jpg


Temps came right back down as soon as i kicked the heat on max and stayed average while the car was moving, so took it easy on the way home.

Let it all cool down then got underneath too see if something was leaking, water pump/radiator/hose/heads/etc. to find it all looked okay no build up/crust that would suggest a leak, except the rad cap looked like the heat cycling from the road trip killed it.



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One radiator cap later from the lps and looks like the problem is solved. hopefully no need for more work anytime soon.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2024/04/53687195572_a9219a3d6a_c-1.jpg

cars are stupid.

[Muse]

I think that's what caused my 3.0 to pop it's head gasket. Got way too hot on a long drive and it's never been right since. But you seem to have caught it far sooner than I did, so here's wishing you luck.

[xrayspecs]

One week of freeway driving in the 80s and 90's and the gauge never moves above middle so I think I got lucky. TBH the cars one email from copart with a donor away from getting a spicy powerplant.

[xrayspecs]

It has been a while, had a few maintenance items that needed to be addressed.

Took another road trip out of town and had some warmer temps on the gauge in the middle of the 115 desert.. worried about a possible head gasket issue.

Used this to check for leaks.... showed that everything is still good. guessing the water pump is getting tired and old and due for replacement.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398324148_60167a4b0c_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398092101_813670854a_c-1.jpg

Started to get bad pad knock and noises really bad really fast, quick check of the car found passenger side bearing was on its way out fast.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398458025_9a8ee0ca48_c-1.jpg

Got new bearings.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398455400_729876577a_c-1.jpg

When doing the work discovered the hub was also toast.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398267974_18b47fbeb7_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398092846_4e9a4debb0_c-1.jpg

New Hub and back together, also looked around the back end and found this bushing on its way out that was the reason the rear end felt looser than it should.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398327568_1f9ae57cc5_c-1.jpg

Didnt drive the car much while getting parts and other items.

Hit 200k miles.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398454275_67086754c7_c-1.jpg

Did take some time to clean up the headlights as they were hazing bad.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398092216_c845bf2161_c-1.jpg

[https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398324083_1937b98851_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398092031_85ba6ddcf8_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398267389_7241ee99df_c-1.jpg

Tires were also due since this summer. finally got some new Conti's.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398454575_d9882d9221_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398327868_c810a9ddf2_c-1.jpg

Also replaced the worn bushings as they were the main suspect in causing the acerated wear on the rears this summer.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398271094_9433163255_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398458170_c3e9ec7b28_c-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398268419_d4f583bc42_c-1.jpg


Went with the non eccentric outer to see if it helps this issue since i have the adjustable arms.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398325253_371b842ffb_c-1.jpg


Also added a new dead pedal from Kart boy.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/03/54398093446_acf61eaa93_c-1.jpg

[ryu_haneda]

When I drove my old '98 Legacy GT, the water pump eventually came up for service. I'm nowhere near this level of do-it-yourself, so I took it to get replaced. Parts and labor were not cheap, but it got done.

[xrayspecs]

Yeah i havent got to it quite yet, i still need to pick up the fluids, a new tstat and a coolant plug since the factory oem cooler/heater is starting to leak and needs to come off.

Its time for a new belt and idlers anyways so might as well do it all at once.

[xrayspecs]

Decided to take the car down for substantial work this summer, first spring day it went over 80 deg the car was getting warm and wouldn't cool down when sitting at a light confirming that the head gaskets do indeed need to be replaced. also meant the parts pile I have could be put on the car at the same time.

Working out of a garage with A/C is amazing.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787332841_b5a990f729_c-1.jpg


Made quick work of getting it stripped down to a shortblock.

Headgaskets are toast after all this time and milage this was the number 4 cylinder and was one of the worst.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787335986_9ff949b4ed_c-1.jpg

Quick work to get the rest of the block stripped and ready for work.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787670420_e33ab9c1cf_c-1.jpg


Heads and block deck needed to be cleaned up before rebuild.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787569129_1a82c954c0_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54789828876_1b7cb443fd_c-1.jpg

Took my time with glass blocks and plate i have and lapped the heads and block to clean up all the defects. Lots of patients and wd-40 to lubricate and clean.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787577784_42c5e684ae_c-1.jpg

Also installed a new Aisin Timing kit and water pump and OE t-stat on the block.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54788989987_778bc3a79f_c-1.jpg

Removed the OEM water/oil cooler/heater loop on the oil filter stack. it always leaked and made it a pain to change the filter with the Borla headers. kept all the parts but used parts from the scrapped engine (tstat housing/filter tube) and a new from the dealer block plug to delete.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54790237030_c45440a461_c-1.jpg

Clutch and flywheel also needed to be done (had cold morning chatter bad) so had the spare flywheel turned and got another Exedy oem kit. took the time with the flywheel off to clean all the clutch material off the back of the block.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54786492217_1af37b0403_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787589863_4d435404c8_c-1.jpg

Also took the time since everything was apart to fix the notchy shifter feel on the transmission, the replacement pitch stop made a huge difference in slop and shift feel so got a replacement OEM ujoint.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787567309_150f8c14e4_c-1.jpg

Installed the STI OEM short shifter as well. STI short shifter on the right oem on the left.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787670165_6d9097b372_c-1.jpg

STI pivot distance.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787565044_28208658bc_c-1.jpg

vs OEM.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787669050_ec381bb44f_c-1.jpg

When installing I found out i had overlooked which years legacy the one i bought would fit and bought one off someone on here for a 05+ legacy/Impreza. nothing a little problem solving couldnt fix. cut this much off the back of the shifter, if you dont itll run into the chassis and bind the whole shift assembly up. cut it off and everything slid together how it should and works with no binding or issues for the last two months with the kartboy bushings. also replaced the rubber bushings in the ujoint with a Torque Solutions Solid shifter bushings.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787671085_90ef31406c_c-1.jpg
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While looking over the front end, noticed play in the passenger side wheel bearing again. after looking into it, the outer wheel bearing seal was not staying seated in the spindle and was spinning on the wrong surface. So bought all new bearings, seals and hub again. this time also added some Loctite 648 on the outside to retain the seal in place so I don't have this problem again and put it all back together.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54787334876_7cbc061dbf_c.jpg[/img

Which is great because! adding some new brakes to the front of the car. 04' STI street brake kit from Powerstop. Price on these was too good to pass up for fully built calipers, pins, springs, pads and rotors. For good measure also replaced the front soft hoses with new. Also got 4 new '04 STI front caliper bolts from the dealer as the Brembo's take a different bolt than the OEM calipers and i have trust issues.
[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54787585888_a862b9d954_c.jpg

Now to put it all back together. Went with Mahle for the gasket kit.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787333606_3d5a6c8e3b_c-1.jpg

Got some help too putting it all back together. His first help with a rebuild.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787333871_567a5e4bf6_c-1.jpg

All new timing triple checked timing and set the lash on the valves to oem.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787673735_c39ae309f2_c-1.jpg

Almost there.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787567869_a8fc7aa4a0_c-1.jpg

New filter too as this one needs to go.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787565449_5ae505911b_c-1.jpg

All burped and ready to rock. The car drives with so much more power than it had before!
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787589928_7be4289ceb_c-1.jpg

Lastly a wash and wax! it needs a glass out respray but i dont have the time or space to do it proper right now so just driving and enjoying it.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787589018_5edd127e97_c-1.jpg

[xrayspecs]

Broke out the camera too and took some detail pictures recently.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787553234_85a836e981_c-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2025/09/54787553209_b573ea8b47_c-1.jpg
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