pulled motor out

[bdaza329]

ok so i pulled the motor out to replace the headgaskets we were torqueing down the headbolts and we got to the 5th step and one of them snapped. im not sure if it was the tourque wrench that we were using(because it was set for 132 and we didnt hear it click) or if its because we reused the headbolts.

also when we did the heads i did not see the "shims" for the cams i dont know what they are or where they are located but the heads are apart right now.

o the problems

ok well since the motor is pulled i figured i would try to replace some stuff. it seems like theres still decent life on the clutch, the timing belt looks brand new, i got new plugs and wires, along with all the gaskets for the head gasket instal. is there anything else since the motor is out that i should really check/ look at and into replacing??

thanks guys

[belladonna]

um, sounds like you've covered most of the bases...

[Wiscon_Mark]

How about all the other gaskets and seals you can get your hands on? Timing belt & water pump need doing?

Otherwise, just give it a good cleaning before you put it all back together.

[blackgtbeauty]

sounds like you've got everything, +1 on cleaning though, just be careful. you could do a perrin crank pulley while its apart.

maybe you could figure out how to put a tv or 37 in there while your at it, pimp my ride style.

i'm kidding.

really.

[SHOfast]

The shims for the cams will likely be sitting on top of the lifter buckets. Unless you pull them off they are kind of stuck on there.

Did you clean the headbolts and run a tap into the block? Oil everything up really well before torquing? What method are you using to torque the heads down.

Depending on how many miles and what has been serviced before I highly suggest you look at the rear main seal and the cover plate. Other than that the cam seals, front main and oil pump O-ring. These are all common leakers on these engines once they get some miles. You might get lucky and never get a leak but I would just do them while they are easy, plus they are cheap too.

[scottzg]

100k old timing belt really doesnt show much visible wear, in my experience.

[Huffer]

I would do everything recommended for a timing belt service change - oil pump, timing belt, water pump, thermostate, timing belt tensioner, front seal, real seal, even replace the MAF.

Shoot, if you have time, I'd even clean out the intake manifold, see if you can do a little P&P on it.

[BAC5.2]

The timing belts on older cars had 60k service intervals. I'd recommend replacing them then. It's easy and timing belts are cheap.

How did you torque down the head bolt?

If one snapped, then it's a good idea to replace them all.

I believe the FSM says to replace head bolts every time you remove the head from the motor.

When doing head gaskets, if you can swing the money, just opt for head studs. ARP's 11mm head stud kit is relatively cheap (under $300 IIRC) and it's a good investment. They work better than stock, and you don't have to worry about breakage. The install proceedure is super easy too. Lube and hand tighten the studs into the block and torque the nuts down according to the directions. Studs and nuts are far superior in strength to a bolt.

Since you mostly torqued down the head, you'll need new head gaskets to do the job correctly.

Phil

[sheepdog]

I believe the FSM says to replace head bolts every time you remove the head from the motor.

We told him not to change them haha. I seem to recall it not being neccessary

[bdaza329]

the seal looks like it has been done. there is still the cross hatchs in the motor. so it seems like the water pump and all that stuff was changed. on carfax it says it went in for service at 130xxx. the new headbolts will be here tomorrow. so i guess we will see what happens
thanks for ur help guys


brandon