Which rear endlinks do you use with your big rear sway bar?

[jmgtp]

In regards to 01 GT.

I upgraded to a 22mm rear bar a few months back and the difference is amazing. I'm still using the wimpy stock endlinks. I get a slight clunk if I hit a large bump/pothole otherwise the bar is not noisy. The big question is what, if any, performance advantage is there to upgrading the endlinks? I know on paper it definetly makes sense to upgrade from the stockers but I'm only considering it if it will make a difference I can feel. As is, with only the upgraded rear bar, the car feels fairly neutral with a slight tendancy to oversteer - but remains very forgiving. I think I would be happy with a slightly stiffer rear end - can upgraded endlinks give me that extra edge? Thoughts on using bushing equipped endlinks vs spherical bearings? It is a daily driver so I'm not considering springs or struts.

[galek_98gt]

well i use the whiteline alloy endlinks with my whiteline swaybar.

[sheepdog]

I use the Perrin endlinks with my whiteline bar.

[rougeben83]

That clunk is likely the rear swaybar hitting your lateral links. Ask me how I know... :roll:

I'm going with some adjustable heim-jointed endlinks for a Miata that I shortened. Will move the bar up another .5" Hopefully it doesn't hit anything :| AND hopefully I don't have to recenter the stupid bar every xxxxmiles because that's usually what happens with the WRX folks going with solid endlinks.

The regular ones are fine IMO in design. It's already a solid joint design, so upgrading durometers on the bushings is out of the question because it doesn't have any in the first place.

[sheepdog]

I went to the Perrin ones after I broke my whiteline ones :-?

[scottzg]

the stock C endlinks tend to deform A LOT with big (ie- 22mm) bars. I've seen them totally bent. An alu endlink effectively raises the rate of the bar, so yes, it will provide that extra whatever you are looking for.

I'm rather partial to bushed endlinks, and preferably ones that dont have urethane bushings. Good old rubber doesnt clunk and it absorbs minor vibrations of the bar, which is important on paper.


me, i have urethane bushings on my stock droplinks and it works because the links dont have any twisting loads.

[ten80]

You guys are forgetting that he's asking about endlinks for an 01 legacy. Whiteline and Perrin make nothing for us BE/BH guys :(

Miata endlinks seem to be one of the few options. I'm looking at some on ebay right now that seem pretty nice with stainless heim joints and adjustable length.

[rougeben83]

MSI makes BE (the OP's chassis) endlinks. Go over to the vendor classifieds forum on Legacygt.com It's $120 though...

FYI STI rear endlinks (which are also straight) won't work either. It's about .5" shorter than the stock one.

Edit: just installed these today,

Miata adjustable endlinks, SS heim jointed, but they were about .5" too long as what I would like. Stock endlink is around 3.5" long, the lowest the Miata's could go was 4.5", and I wanted something around 4" due to clearance issues from above.

I cut down the threaded center about 5 turns on each end, giving me exactly 4" eye to eye. Cut down to size this is how they look:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2006/11/HPIM0484-1.jpg

And on the car:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2006/11/HPIM0489-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2006/11/HPIM0485-1.jpg

So far so good. I may shorten them down even more by taking out the lock nuts and just running the two ends on the threaded center as there's about 1.5" of clearance above the endlink with an upper suspension arm that goes to the hub. I'm hoping that part moves up and down on an arc big enough to avoid the swaybar as it too is going up and down at the same time...

[jmgtp]

I completely forgot about this thread!

rougeben83 any particular model year Miata for which you purchased the end links? Any updates on how it is working out? Does the hardware match up to the Subaru well (bolt diameter, etc)?

I was hoping for a bolt on experience but I'm fairly used to having to fabricate/modify for my other car so this is no big deal.

I too get the clunk over hard bumps. I moved the bar up as high as it would go and that helped a lot (this is possible because the bolt holes on the bushing bracket are elongated so it gives you some space to play). Mine was bumping the exhaust pipe before, as evident by the markings on the bar and exhaust.

Both bays of my garage are currently occupied so I'm not sure when I'll get around to this but I'd still like to collect the parts.

[OutbackGT]

I get the clunk too. I'll try moving the bar up higher. Anyway, my question: do all BH/BE chassis use the same enlinks? I'm looking to upgrade mine too.

[rougeben83]

The stutter bumps/recessed manholes that normally caused the clunks don't do it now. On the really big potholes and if you go over humps at around 20mph, I still hear a slight clunk.

I just came back from rallycrossing, and it didn't clunk around like before; but the event was held on a faster, less suspension-breaking venue though.

I had to get new bolts as the rear BE/BH endlinks are in one piece, they use the same diameter bolts as the stock endlinks though.

Whiteline seems to make adjustable endlinks for BE/BH's. It's almost the same as the generic miata ones, but has spiffy yellow rubber booties to cover up the heim joints. It costs almost as much as the IPD bar though :(