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SilentRacer
12-23-2006, 11:32 AM
Ok since im not sure how much service on the car was performed. This was sent to me by a subaru mechanic. You can see my question by part. I want to DIY as much as possible? I have 39k.

30k
replace air filter = replaced at 38k
pcv valve = what is that?
sparkplugs = any way to check if they are new? look for rust?
clean trottle body = how?
front and rear diff fluid replacement = front is low, back is under the car?
adjust rear brakes = skip?
flush brake fluid = how? There use to be a video on this?
lube all latches = whats a latch?

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 11:47 AM
replace air filter = replaced at 38k
pcv valve = what is that?
sparkplugs = any way to check if they are new? look for rust?
clean trottle body = how?
front and rear diff fluid replacement = front is low, back is under the car?
adjust rear brakes = skip?
flush brake fluid = how? There use to be a video on this?
lube all latches = whats a latch?

Air Filter - check
PCV valve- stands for positive crankcase ventilation. It recirculates air back into your intake manifold.
Here it is on my BK: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2005/11/PCVValvePic-1.jpg

Sparkplugs- I know some BEs came with champion sparkplugs. Replace with NGK copper V-power plugs. You look at the part of the plug that actually sparks. If it's corroded, full of gunk, or bunt out, it'll be obvious. I would replace them for a fresh pair unless they looked immaculate.

Clean Throttle Body- get a can of throttle body cleaner, remove intake, spray in the throttle body.

I don't know about the front diff, but the rear is really obvious under the back of the car. It's located right between the rear wheels.

Brake Fluid- Remove the brake lines from the brakes (you'll need to remove the wheels for this). Each one has what's called a bleeder on it. You open the bleeder and have a friend pump the brakes for you, putting new fluid in the brake fluid resirvoir, so it'll pump out the old fluid. Boxer4racing sells speed bleeders so you can do all 4 at the same time, by yourself.

latch- dunno...where did you read about this? Maybe it means door handles and such? I know my rear tailgate handle gets damn sticky and needs some silicone frequently.

Huffer
12-23-2006, 12:28 PM
Everything on your list is DIY. Some of it is harder than the others without the right tools, but all fluid changes are a piece of cake.
Also air filter, PCV and fuel filters are a doddle.

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 12:34 PM
Sparkplugs are pretty easy if you remove the airbox and the windshield washer resivior.

Of course your airbox is in a different location...you'd have to remove all that intake silencing garbage then.

warrior
12-23-2006, 04:23 PM
I don't know about the front diff

WHAT?! Mark! I'm disappointed in you.. the front diff is inside the tranny and it uses the same fluid as the tranny.. i thought you'd know that of all people!

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 04:26 PM
Meh, haven't had to deal with diff fluids yet. I figured.

SilentRacer
12-23-2006, 07:50 PM
I'll take a pic of where the front differential fluid is. So i took out a spark plug. The coil part is black but the igniter part seems to be pretty clean. They are champion. So do i switch to iridium? platnum? or copper?

Side note: How do you take out the windshield fluid resivior without spilling all the fluid? I didn't try this but i suspect if you pull it out the fluid will leak ?

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 07:53 PM
I would drain the washer fluid first...syphon it.

And definitely replace the champions, they are junk. Copper plugs will spark the best and be much cheaper than the others.

I figured out what they meant by latch, I think. It means check the LATCH system that's used for baby seats.

Huffer
12-23-2006, 09:05 PM
I figured out what they meant by latch, I think. It means check the LATCH system that's used for baby seats.

No, you dork. :lol:

Door latch mechanism - where the bolt hooks into the doorframe.

There's no lubricant on the LATCH system for baby seats.

SilentRacer - on an AT the front diff uses the same fluid as the transmission.

SilentRacer
12-23-2006, 09:12 PM
so who gets +10 mark points for stumping mark? :smt114

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 09:14 PM
No, you dork. :lol:

LOL! I forgot about the lubricating part :lol:

ivwarrior
12-23-2006, 09:16 PM
SilentRacer - on an AT the front diff uses the same fluid as the transmission.

Uh, no. On an AT the diff is seperate. On a MT the front diff/transmission share fluid. AT uses ATF, front diff uses gear oil.

Huffer
12-23-2006, 09:58 PM
SilentRacer - on an AT the front diff uses the same fluid as the transmission.

Uh, no. On an AT the diff is seperate. On a MT the front diff/transmission share fluid. AT uses ATF, front diff uses gear oil.

Whoops. you got me! :)

Wiscon_Mark
12-23-2006, 09:59 PM
You dork! :razz:

Reason
12-24-2006, 02:19 PM
SilentRacer - on an AT the front diff uses the same fluid as the transmission.

Uh, no. On an AT the diff is seperate. On a MT the front diff/transmission share fluid. AT uses ATF, front diff uses gear oil.

Whoops. you got me! :)

News to me too, I thought they shared the same in the AT. Wow, I guess I should go and check my gear oil......uh check that :cry:

Wiscon_Mark
12-24-2006, 03:50 PM
Yeah, ATF transfers power and lubricates, while gear oil is really only intended for lubrication.

SilentRacer
12-24-2006, 04:10 PM
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/rageingspirit/differential.jpg
Dipstick for front differential, how to get to it is another question.

O and just to be sure can you point out my pcv valve in this picture?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/rageingspirit/enginebay.jpg