new memeber 98 legacy wagon L

[Victor]

I've been looking for a site like this for a long time
thank God i found it
Need some assistance I would like to do some upgrades
don't know where to start budget is tight
Maybe a cone intake and some iridium spark plugs

[d1giPhux]

Perrin lightweight crank pulley is always a good choice. They run you about $100-120 and they take about 30 minutes or so to install. When i installed one on my last legacy, i noticed it helped out in 1st and 2nd gear a lot.. was a good upgrade for sure! Also, suspension is always a good upgrade =]

Good luck with whatever you do, and welcome!

[Victor]

sorry forgot to mention
auto/ej22/bk

thanks for the info
will look into suspensions

[shazapple]

Lots of stuff in the DIY section for cheap mods! Welcome to the site!

[Wiscon_Mark]

Welcome! :smile:

[Reason]

A good start would be brakes and suspension. Slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines, high performance pads, springs struts, top mounts, and good tires. The list goes on, check out the members rides. Most of us have mod list. If you do a lot of reading you will find all your answers. We been over most of the subjects that the new guys ask about.

You won't get flamed for a stupid question like most other boards (unless it's really stupid). Still feel free to ask any questions.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Slotted rotors? Nah...

[Reason]

Slotted rotors? Nah...

What is your problem with them?

[Wiscon_Mark]

No more effective at braking, wear your pads down quicker.

They're only really for drivers who drive track and experience lots of brake fade.

Solid rotors are fine for a daily driver. Unless you do mountain runs all the time or something...

[Reason]

No more effective at braking, wear your pads down quicker.

They're only really for drivers who drive track and experience lots of brake fade.

Solid rotors are fine for a daily driver. Unless you do mountain runs all the time or something...

My brake don't last any less than the did before. I would have to replace my brakes every summer. Now I can go pretty much 2 summers. If that's your experience with them maybe you should try a more quality product.

[shazapple]

No more effective at braking, wear your pads down quicker.

They're only really for drivers who drive track and experience lots of brake fade.

Solid rotors are fine for a daily driver. Unless you do mountain runs all the time or something...

Ding ding ding, for daily driving theyre just bling (this coming from a guy with slotted rotors) Mine were $50 so i couldnt pass them up!

[Wiscon_Mark]

You have to replace brakes every summer?

Beat on the brakes much? Try coasting to a stop once :razz:

[Reason]

You have to replace brakes every summer?

Beat on the brakes much? Try coasting to a stop once :razz:

4EAT buddy, no down shifting for me. I had my CRX for 2 years and I never had to change my brakes (it was a 5 spd).

[Wiscon_Mark]

I didn't say downshifting. I rarely downshift. I sincerely doubt that having a 4EAT contributes to needing to replace the brakes.

More likely the CRX being a super light car and you putting less miles on it contributed to that.

[Reason]

That could be the case, I rarely used the brakes. I downshift a lot in manuals. In my defense, I had nothing but good results with my brake setup and will never go back to stock.

[badbasser98]

yeah, the slotted rotors and upgraded pads helped drasticly with the brake feel on my BE, maybe the extra weight is what makes the difference for me?

[Reason]

yeah, the slotted rotors and upgraded pads helped drasticly with the brake feel on my BE, maybe the extra weight is what makes the difference for me?

No Matt you are wrong, they are for racing applications, it just all in your head. I seen the light, can't you? :roll:

[Wiscon_Mark]

Yes, great testing guys :roll:

Pads make a much bigger difference than rotors. So does fresh brake fluid.

So if you add pads & rotors and notice a difference you can claim 100% that the rotors are better? How do you know it's not just the pads? How do you know what it's not just the rotors? You don't.

Solid rotors have more surface for the pads to cling to. It's pretty easy to conclude that they'd perform better until too much heat causing brake fade would become an issue. And it definitely shouldn't in your daily driving.

[badbasser98]

I guess I should have been more explicative... I wasn't saying "Slap on some slotted rotors and you'll have the equivalent of STi brakes." I was saying that my rotor/pad combo was far better than stock. I have never experienced brake fade on this setup, but my stock brakes experienced fade rather quickly. My only quirk? These rotors warped the first time I drove them for a lengthened period of time in cold weather. :evil: Fast transfer from hot to cold many times..?

[Reason]

What rotors do you have Matt?

[Huffer]

I've been looking for a site like this for a long time
thank God i found it
Need some assistance I would like to do some upgrades
don't know where to start budget is tight
Maybe a cone intake and some iridium spark plugs

Bringing thread back on topic - 3 moderators messing it up for the new guy!

Best value mod you can do, IMHO - new GOOD tires. Get some season-specific treads (depending on where you live). Most west-coasters and southerners can roll around on wet/dry treads all the time.

[Wiscon_Mark]

Bringing thread back on topic - 3 moderators messing it up for the new guy!

Bah, it's good info ;)


Best value mod you can do, IMHO - new GOOD tires. Get some season-specific treads (depending on where you live). Most west-coasters and southerners can roll around on wet/dry treads all the time.

+1

Not enough emphasis is put on the 4 little pieces of rubber keeping your 3000+ lb car to the road.

[Reason]

Mark is right, you need to hear both sides.

[Huffer]

Brake info could be split off into a dedicated brake thread...