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View Full Version : DIY: Grounding Mod


Khanhfucious
03-09-2007, 10:52 AM
I got my Big3 done.

I used:
1x P3 Platinum + Battery Terminal
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=263-677 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=263-677)
1x P3 Platinum - Battery Terminal
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=263-678 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=263-678)
2x KnuKonceptz MiniANL Fuse Holders w/ 150A Fuses
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... odID=FH-44 (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-44)
15' KnuKonceptz Kolossus Kable 4AWG(Ended up with like 8' left over)
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... dID=KOL4BL (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL4BL)
2 packs 4AWG Ring Terminals, 5/16" Hole (Had 2 left over)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=095-656 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=095-656)
1 piece 3/8" Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink (Had A LOT left over)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=080-113 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=080-113)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/03/IMG_3480-1.jpg
Overall view of my engine bay. Disregard the fact my Windshield Washer Fluid bottle is missing, I removed it to make space for the relays and fuse holders for my HiD Wiring. Notice I have 2 fuse holders. I have two, because current has the potential to come from the alternator and the battery, and I dont want my car burning down. If I were to fuse only the battery side, if I get a short between the alternator and the fuse, I could ruin my alternator. If I were to fuse only the alternator side, and I were to get a short between the battery and fuse, my battery could blow up. Better safe than sorry.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/03/IMG_3483-1.jpg
Connection at the battery. The stock Battery- to Fender wire was tossed out.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/03/IMG_3481-1.jpg
Connection to the Alternator. Also in this picture is the ground.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/03/IMG_3482-1.jpg
Another angle of the grounds.

One wire I added, that hte pictures really dont show, is a wire between the transmission and the firewall.

I was a dumbass and forgot my 0/6AWG crimper at my apartment, so I had to use a vise for my crimps. IMO, the crimps come out just as solid.

The purpose of hte Big3 is to provide a better "conduit" for higher current flow demanded by audio systems and auxiliary lighting. The Big3 is rumored to be better against dimming lights than a Cap.

Hope this helps anyone who is going to be doing theirs anytime soon.
backpack09
03-09-2007, 12:53 PM
How much did all of that cost you?

You live somewhere without bugs or snow? Around here you cannot pass inspection if your sprayers do not work.
Khanhfucious
03-09-2007, 01:46 PM
Well, I bought everything together with wiring and parts for my other project, so I really dont know how much, but I listed the links for everything.

I live in Philly, where they dump an ocean's worth of salt at the first signs of flurries. Ill be looking for a solution for a washer fluid bottle. The stock one was just too big, in a spot where I needed space.
Plays_with_Toys
03-09-2007, 02:51 PM
Looks great!
Superu264
03-09-2007, 03:22 PM
I live in Philly, where they dump an ocean's worth of salt at the first signs of flurries.

:smt081 I shovel it up and use it for next year.
ryankenn
03-09-2007, 04:49 PM
That's a cool looking setup, but am I to understand that those two fuseholders are 8 inches apart on the same wire between the battery and alternator??

This makes no sense electrically to me. First off, the stock wire isn't fused at all, and for good reason, the spikes given out be an alternator will trip those fuses over time, and you'll know it when you eventually kill your battery. You'll have no way to know they've blown, and the car will run strictly off the battery until its dead, as it has no way of getting charged.

Second, you've now introduced two voltage drops between the higher voltage alternator and your battery, reducing the amount of physical charge the alternator can put on your battery, and increasing the time it takes to charge it up.

Maybe all unfounded if those aren't in fact both on that wire. I want to do something like this myself, but I really don't know about those fuses.
Khanhfucious
03-09-2007, 05:57 PM
They both are on that wire, but the stock wire is still there.
ryankenn
03-10-2007, 12:52 AM
So the stocker is still in place as well. Ahh. With that wire sitting there unfused, why so much protection on a wire running parallel with it? If you ever do blow the fuses, you'll blow both every time, as the stock wire provides a path through the other fuse, barring a complete sever of the wire.

Cool looking though.
Khanhfucious
03-10-2007, 01:20 PM
I forgot to add, while doing this project, I found out my car is very easy to hotwire. I accidentally shorted the little + wire that goes to the fuse box, and the car started, steering wheel turned, was able to put the car into gear.

That is something Ill definitely have to figure out how to prevent.
Wiscon_Mark
03-24-2007, 10:30 PM
you exceeded your photobucket bandwidth.

Time to switch to putfile for Subaru stuff?
subba
06-28-2008, 01:21 PM
sorry to bring up a old topic but a noob question awaits..... where you think are the best 5 grounding spots?
adw_terror
06-29-2008, 09:44 AM
i personally believe that the best grounding spots in the engine bay are the shock towers, front radiator support, engine block, and alternator
-Josh
Kansei
08-16-2008, 05:28 AM
so do you need either of the fuse holders or is that just a precaution you took?

I'm going to do this eventually and would like to know.
wagonofdoom
08-16-2008, 08:49 AM
i just did half of mine
i did from the rear of the engine bay to the bracket by the alternator (was a factory 10ga wire)
fender to neg
strut tower to neg
alternator to neg

and i will be replacing a few other grounds i found throughout the engine bay

i got two grounding kits for 20 bucks each at a local shop so i figured id go for it
rkrenicki
09-25-2012, 01:24 PM
I am going to be doing this mod shortly, I actually picked up the KnuKonceptz 4ga CCA wire in red and black for this and the 4ga lugs just showed up in the mail yesterday after being backordered for a few weeks. Once I find my large gauge crimper, I will start assembling my kit.
kreggor
10-09-2012, 08:56 PM
Did my Outback a few days ago with the Paranoid Fabrications kit. Big improvements. Idles smoother, 4EAT shifts quicker, headlights don't dim when I step on the brake, and I swear there's less interference on my FM signal. Something must have been pretty messed up on my car. It's got about 230K and has been through a lot.

I did: shock tower to intake manifold to coil to throttle body to intake (other side) to neg. battery cable. I'd like to add another segment to the alternator and maybe to at least one of the cylinder heads.
danieltrusty
07-25-2013, 09:24 AM
I forgot to add, while doing this project, I found out my car is very easy to hotwire. I accidentally shorted the little + wire that goes to the fuse box, and the car started, steering wheel turned, was able to put the car into gear.

That is something Ill definitely have to figure out how to prevent.

The wire from the battery to the fuse? That doesnt sound good.
Mountain Cowboy
02-13-2014, 05:38 PM
I did mine from scratch, with years of aviation electronics training and installs under my belt this was a piece of cake. In just under an hour I was done, with all the grounds being aviation specs. started the car and noticed right away that it seemed to be running smoother. The electrical systems seems to be running more efficiently with less noise. Thanks for the info. this site is priceless