Motul RBF600 - brake fluid

[warrior]

http://www.4induktion.com/catalog/images/RBF_600.jpg

Is this the good stuff? I have some shitty Walmart Tech2000 brake fluid in my car right now and want to get rid of that crap!

[Wiscon_Mark]

Pretty much any DOT3 brake fluid will work fine. As long as you bleed it frequently, you'll get good performance out of the fluid.

[MCarp22]

RBF600 is way overkill unless you're running racecar-only brake pads for high speed track days or road racing. It was overkill for my neon on track days.

[warrior]

Hmm.. even if it is over kill.. it won't damage anything.. it says for street or track use DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved

[TRUBLU]

Hey man, if you want it and can afford it and you can use it which it says you can then go for it!

[deadlydave]

DOT 4 has a higher boiling point if you're going to be pushing your breaks:
DOT 3 minimum dry boiling point: 401 Degrees F
DOT 4 Minimum dry boiling point: 446 Degrees F
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 dry boiling point: 446 Degrees F
...
...
Motul RBF600 dry boiling point: 593 Degrees F.

The list is from "Car Hacks and Mods for Dummies by David Vespremi, pg135.

Go for it, i can't hurt as long as you change it regularly, as Mark stated. It's when the fluid absorbs moisture that the boiling point lowers. How much does that Motul stuff go for anyway?

[JMoney]

WTF. Wouldn't you want the 'wet' boiling temperatures? :-?

[Wiscon_Mark]

WTF. Wouldn't you want the 'wet' boiling temperatures? :-?

Well, the concept of a dry liquid is hard one to fathom, but I think wet would mean the fluid with water in it...dry would mean just the fluid...I mean, you can't boil a solid without it turning into a liquid, so dry must be the pure brake fluid.

[ivwarrior]

When it comes to brake fluid "dry" boiling point is for pure brake fluid, before it's been exposed to the atmosphere and started absorbing moisture. "Wet" would be after it's absorbed moisture, but there's no effective way to measure it, as it'd vary depending on the amount of moisture the fluid has absorbed. The moisture absorption is the main reason you should flush your brake fluid on a regular (say yearly) basis.

EDIT: Mark must have hit "submit" about the time I hit "reply" :grin:

[Wiscon_Mark]

right on, Ron :grin:

[rougeben83]

Yeah, any DOT3 stuff will do for street use. The key is to bleed on a regular schedule (like 1-2 years), to keep the fluid in the lines fresh.

I have that blue stuff that people usually compare the Motuls too (I forgot the name :lol:). The act of bleeding probably did more than the actual fluid change.

[StatGSR]

^ ate superblue... and yea that stuff rocks....

[warrior]

How much does that Motul stuff go for anyway?

That stuff is $23/bottle CAN.. too damn expensive for my liking.. haha!

[backpack09]

I was under the impression that Motul was a Synthetic, and therefore does not absorb moisture like standard DOT fluids.

[rougeben83]

Motul and Superblue don't absorb as much moisture, but they still do and will require changing over time.

The nifty thing about the blue is it's easier to see when you'll need the change the fluid as it's easier to see it change from it's new color to the dark reddish stuff that is indicative of old brake fluid.

[Huffer]

Here's some good info about brake fluids.

Brand name isn't everything. It's about formulation.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_br ... d_1a.shtml (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml)

[jey]

^ ate superblue... and yea that stuff rocks....

Yeah I use ATE Superblue too - tons better than anything else I've used and I found a place locally that sells it for like $8/can.