5 spd swap.

[studum]

Just thought I'd share the joy, my car is officially getting a 5spd swap :grin:

Should be happening late next week, just have to wait for a clutch master cylinder and pedal box to arrive. The shop tells me it will take about a day.

I'm so excited :grin: :grin: :grin:

[sheepdog]

Nice! Keep track of all the costs if you would, it's always been a controversy how much it really costs once you factor in selling the AT and stuff.

Next step is the motor :twisted: lol

[ivwarrior]

Yes, keep us updated on costs. I've been looking for a different car, but am having troubles finding one. I've seen a few that were what I was looking for, except they were autos. I've thought a few times about just buying an auto and then doing the swap.

[studum]

Unfortunately my costs are not going to be realistic towards the true cost of a swap. It just so happens that this works out really well for 2 parties.

My girlfriend was in need of a car and decided to get into a Suby (didn't need much persuasion either). She got a 2000 2.5RS which was previously swapped. Right now it is sitting at the shop almost completely in peices with no drivetrain at all.

We are going to get it rebuilt to stock form for her, it was going to come as a 5 spd. So I simply asked the question "how much?" to put my auto in her car and her 5spd in my car. They need to order a bunch of parts for the RS, including a harness, so they said they can built it however they want, they just needed to know ASAP so they could order the appropriate parts.

In the end she is getting my auto (which she prefers) and I am getting the 5spd (which I prefer) and its only costing us the cost of labour for the swap on my car in addition to the price of her car. So for $9800 Canadian we are getting a rebuilt and refinished 2.5RS and a tranny swap into a Leggy.

[Huffer]

Keep us posted on the shop progress - it'd be interesting to know of a shop nearby that can handle that kind of work.

[studum]

The shop is called Planet Motorsport. Not the pretiest place in the world, but I just say don't judge a book by its cover.

The are a Subaru only shop. They do anything and everything Subaru, specializing in drivetrain swaps. Honest people and willing to help out a Suby driver with even the smallest of jobs.

I found them when I needed a knock sensor just after I bought the car (got a great deal on a used one) and have been going back ever since.

http://www.planetmotorsport.com/ - Their official website for anyone interested.

[tekkitan]

I too an interested in a total cost to get this done, though your situation is different :)

I wish my car was manual, but I couldn't find a Subaru I liked in my area when I was on the market for one that was manual.

[redlegacygt]

hey i just noticed you from canada. you might want to checkout JDMSPEC4U, they seem to have really good prices and might be able to give you a good deal. They've done tons of work on subarus. I priced them for a motor and tranny swap its only costing me $3500 CAD...

let me know if you want any more details..

[tekkitan]

I e-mailed Planet Motorsport and asked for a rough estimate. This is what I got about my 2000LGT:


Labor on this job is appx 12 @ $70 pr hr. Parts are $600 used 5 speed/ $350 new clutch/ $100 re machined flywheeel / $250 new pedal box / $150 used slave and master cylinder/ Fluid and rear diff at $300.

Iain
Planet Motorsport.

Adds up to around $2590 (Canadian I think), which is around $2,340 USD. Assuming you can get the parts for cheaper, this would vary. It gives a rough estimate though.

[studum]

I e-mailed Planet Motorsport and asked for a rough estimate. This is what I got about my 2000LGT:


Labor on this job is appx 12 @ $70 pr hr. Parts are $600 used 5 speed/ $350 new clutch/ $100 re machined flywheeel / $250 new pedal box / $150 used slave and master cylinder/ Fluid and rear diff at $300.

Iain
Planet Motorsport.

Adds up to around $2590 (Canadian I think), which is around $2,340 USD. Assuming you can get the parts for cheaper, this would vary. It gives a rough estimate though.

Other parts that I know are also needed:
5spd Leggy driveshaft
Shifter and linkage

[tekkitan]

I e-mailed Planet Motorsport and asked for a rough estimate. This is what I got about my 2000LGT:


Labor on this job is appx 12 @ $70 pr hr. Parts are $600 used 5 speed/ $350 new clutch/ $100 re machined flywheeel / $250 new pedal box / $150 used slave and master cylinder/ Fluid and rear diff at $300.

Iain
Planet Motorsport.

Adds up to around $2590 (Canadian I think), which is around $2,340 USD. Assuming you can get the parts for cheaper, this would vary. It gives a rough estimate though.

Other parts that I know are also needed:
5spd Leggy driveshaft
Shifter and linkage

yay more money to add :)

i knew that wouldn't be all of it

[Huffer]

I wonder what they do with the TCU + ABS system... xcntrk75 found that if the AT TCU was unplugged, the ABS failed to work.

[studum]

I wonder what they do with the TCU + ABS system... xcntrk75 found that if the AT TCU was unplugged, the ABS failed to work.

They have warned me about this. If I remember correctly what they told me it has to do with a speed sensors in the AT.

Apparently the system supposedly will still function but not in the same manor (take longer or something maybe?). I don't know what that means... will have to wait and see. They also can't guarentee that I won't get a light for it, but that doesn't bother me.

[Huffer]

xcntrk's solution was simply to plug the ABS plugs back into the AT TCU, everything worked fine again. Just means you have to have a meaningless TCU sitting behind the center console.

[studum]

I'm 99% sure they leave it connected still. I remember them telling me they just have to splice 2 wires. I could be wrong as I wasn't really paying attention. I was too excited about getting confirmation the swap and looking at the soon to be second car.

As a side note - I have some Cusco shifter bushings I'm getting put in along with a short shifter I ordered today from a vendor of the local Subaru club. :grin: Hopefully it'll be here by the weekend.

http://www.ifirstforce.com/acatalog/copy_of_12Subaru_WRX_STI.html

[sheepdog]

xcntrk has now figured out his wiring issue and doesnt have the TCU in there anymore, if I remember right.

[studum]

My driveshaft isn't in yet... guess I have to wait just a little longer :cry:. As a plus my short shifter arrived yesterday.

[studum]

She's officially in the shop getting her new hips.

I just called for an update. The tranny is out, diff is down and clutch is in.

They had some interesting findings that prove you can never be too sure when buying a used car. The torque converter in the tranny is almost brand new (had the car a little over a year and I didn't change it). Previous owner's maintenance records, which I thought were complete as they were pretty thorough, did not show any tranny work.

One of the clamps on the tranny line was loose and the starter was only on by 1 bolt. :shock:

I have been assured all is well though anf there are no issues with the parts.

And for those who were wondering they have to change my rad too. But I believe that its onl because my tranny is going in the "Preza and they need that rad because it has a cooler output or something.

Anyways, if it keeps going at this pace I'll have t back tonight. If not then I have to wait until tomorrow. Fingers are crossed...

[badbasser98]

keep us posted :wink:

[studum]

I didn't bring the car home tonight. They were willing to stay late and finish it but I told them to just finish it tomorrow at their comfortable pace instead of rushing. Everthing is in the car except for the pedal box, which is aparently a PITA. The wiring also has to be completed.

+1 to the parts list: Starter for the manual tranny.

[studum]

So I have the car now. All I can say is...


:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :cool:

Very happy. The car is completely different, better use of power and more connection. Shifts are tight and precise. Clutch is solid, no funny noises. Other than the ABS light and my lack of a 5spd shifter trim / leather boot you would have no idea the car was an auto.

Anyhoo, I'm going for a drive. :lol:

[deadlydave]

awesome.

[Huffer]

Wait, are they fixing the ABS issue?

[Reason]

I know it's too late but the difference in radiators between AT and MT cars is that the AT fluid runs through the radiator. MT has gear oil and doesn't go to the radiator.

[studum]

Wait, are they fixing the ABS issue?

No, I don't think they know how. If someone does please post up because I would like to know.

They left my rad in after all. They're going to get another one for the Impreza.

[Reason]

Yes because hers is getting the AT. She needs the other radiator. Yours you simple disconnect the line.

[Huffer]

Wait, are they fixing the ABS issue?

No, I don't think they know how. If someone does please post up because I would like to know.

They left my rad in after all. They're going to get another one for the Impreza.

I thought we covered this - the ABS unit runs off the Automatic TCU, so you have to either leave the TCU in place and plugged in, or you have to trick the ABS unit into believing the TCU is there, or you have to figure out some other method (which I believe xcntrk75 has done).

[badbasser98]

I believe xcntrk just left his TCU in place to resolve the ABS issue...

[Huffer]

I believe xcntrk just left his TCU in place to resolve the ABS issue...

That was the old solution. I think he found a better way.

[studum]

I was looking for the other solution. I don't have time to play around with it right now. I have to make an urgent trip out east and will be moving next week. Hopefully I'll have a chance to take a closer look at it in a few weeks.

[subaru_terrence]

show us some pics of your interior please :D

[studum]

Thought I'd post an update:

First of all, my car is finally paid in full and I've closed 2 of my 3 credit cards. That's right baby, she's all mine :grin: Just school debt to pay off now.

The car is still running great with teh 5mt. Shifts are good and solid - aside from my occasional screwup.

Quite a while ago I corrected the shifter / trim situation to my satisfaction until I can source a 5mt shifter trim and boot. I used the auto trim and with the crafty use of something like 8-12 wire ties, a small drill bit and a $10 faux leather shift boot from crappy it's presentable. You can't tell its not supposed to be like that unless you really look at it from the right angle. It's topped off with an '07 WRX shift knob purchased off ebay brand new for a pretty good steal :grin: I can take a pic if anyone really wants to see it, Terrence has already seen it in person.

I have a couple of minor issues with the car still outstanding. The CEL and the ABS light are still there. I read that leaving the TCU in with one of the connectors left disconnected solved the problem and I was going to do this until I realised that I was an idiot and my TCU had to go to the GC to use with my old 4EAT. I'm still searching for a solution to the CEL.

The shop seems to think that replacing the ecu with a 5mt one from the same generation will do the trick. I'm sure there's another way though, just have to find it - after hours upon hours of searching I still haven't come up with a solid solution.

The car has a high idle when cold, while moving. It's hard to explain, but the situation completely disappears when the motor reaches operating temps.

This is what happens:
If the wheels are rolling (it's could be 3km/hr, slower than walking pace), the idle raises, in this situation to about 1200 rpm. When I completely stop the car after a second or so the idle will drop to about 800 - 900 rpm during warm up.

But if I get moving, say accelerating when leaving for work in the morning, the idle between shifts is significantly higher. If I rev to 3000 rpm in first gear and clutch in to shift, the revs will stay put until I engage the clutch in second gear ( I cringe every time). If I rev to ~3500 rpm and shift the revs will usually fall to 2500-3k rpm until I engage in second. If I rev up to `3k rpm then put in neutral and roll the revs will slowly drop as I slow down, eventually reaching standard warm up rpm levels about 1 second after I have stopped the vehicle (900 - 1k rpm(ish)).

Once the car reaches normal temps, it is an absolute dream to drive (operates perfectly). As the car is warming up, the effects described above decrease in magnitude until they disappear completely. It takes a few blocks (3 or 4) to warm up to the point where I don't feel bad about driving it while its cold.

I forget the code(s) that the ecu is throwing. If I remember correctly I think it has something to do with a second speed sensor that was originally in the 4eat tranny but is not in the 5mt (which is from a '99 LGT). I have to find the cable for my scanner so I can pull the code again.

So that's where I'm at, a CEL and ABS light outstanding and a weird high idle when cold.

I'm not angry that my shop hasn't resolved the issue. They're extremely busy and have been doing a heck of a lot for my girlfriends car making sure its perfect as well as helping me out with some other small problems that I had. I wasn't putting my problems on the list of highest importantcy (is that a word) because my car is still working more than well enough to drive on a daily basis.

Off Topic:

For those who are wondering - the GC is doing great. It's getting an alarm installed this weekend, stereo was done a couple of weeks ago, we cleaned up the interior a bit this past long weekend. As you can see its been getting most of the attention lately.

The motor is getting swapped out for another one due to a pretty major noise issue when cold. The noise has not been affecting performance at all (piston slap) so we've been running it for a month or two now I guess to give the shop time to get some of their other projects out of the way. The shop is doing this free of charge, and is putting cometech head gaskets on the new motor as well. It's actually done and ready to go in the car, we just need to fit it in our schedule. They also have the only outstanding piece of trim in their posession - the shifter surround. Aside from that when they put the new motor in they are installing the cruise control and what they can for the a/c. They will also be swapping the motor mounts back to stock replacing the group N mounts that they put in originally. We appreciated teh gesture (they gave these to us free) but they're a little much for an auto daily driver.

[BL2.5GT]

What I did to fix my ABS light was putting my old TCM back in but disconecting the middle connecter and the idle will be fine but after you ground one wire at PCM witch tells the PCM that your car is manual now not automatic. I also had MIL on but that's because the PCM didn't see nuetral safety switch all I did was connected two wires for the nuetral safety switch or you can wire the safety switch from the tranny to center console. Hope this helps, but your cruise control won't work untill you wire it in.

[SubaruKenny_d]

Sorry to bring up an old thread guys, I gathered my parts for the 5 speed swap and I got an 01 legacy wagon. I can do the manual labor like cake however when it comes to wiring thats where it becomes iffy. If someone could give me a pinout of the harness and what I need to do to bypass the neutral safety, wire the reverse lights, and the speedo sensors. Any information would be greatly appreciated, I couldn't find that much information on swapped 3rd gens.