Battery died today! HILARIOUS!

[ryu_haneda]

Okay...

Pulled in to work today, walked back out to the car and saw that my key fob wasn't working. Got in my car and turned the key, and saw that my car wasn't working. Waited about an hour for aaa and they finally got there.

The battery was dead in the car. AAA tech guy told me the parking lights were on.

Priceless. Battery was charged up and I drove home.

Can you say, oops? :grin:

Later...
-ryu_haneda

[Plays_with_Toys]

hit the switch resetting your trip meter?

[ryu_haneda]

I'm pretty sure I hit the switch accidentally when parking.

[warrior]

Your battery died because of parking lights..? Time to invest in a new battery! I recommend Optima Yellow top or even Red top.

I have two amplifiers, both rated at 400 watts rms.. I was blasting my system in the summer at the beach for 4 hours with the car off. Car started like it had a brand new battery.. all thanks to my yellow top :cool:

[ryu_haneda]

Well to be honest, I don't even know when the battery on my car was actually replaced, I would have assumed the unit was new when I purchased it (at the very least, I had absolutely NO problems starting the car in the winter months last year).

I figure this summer I will buy another battery and put it on just to know that it is new. What's the range for battery prices?

-ryu_haneda

p.s. the parking lights were on for 8+ hours, so I figure a good drain could be had by then. A fresh battery could probably take that and not wince, I'm sure.

[GrassyKnoll]

My Optima Redtop cost just over $100. I can run a stereo with two amps at very high volume for about an hour before its dead.

The best part about Optima's though is that you can jump it and it charges up fine. Or, if it's REALLY dead, just run a low-level charge overnight. It's nearly impossible to actually run an optima completely dead.

[ryu_haneda]

Hmmm, might have to buy one of those this summer... if I do that though, I might as well start talking about my other projects.

Uh-oh, here comes the modding bug :shock:

[Wiscon_Mark]

Yeah, a decent battery probably shouldn't have drained significantly because of parking lights.

But it's certainly easy to leave/turn those suckers on!

[warrior]

My Optima Redtop cost just over $100. I can run a stereo with two amps at very high volume for about an hour before its dead.

The best part about Optima's though is that you can jump it and it charges up fine. Or, if it's REALLY dead, just run a low-level charge overnight. It's nearly impossible to actually run an optima completely dead.

Just a little information, if you're using a red top and you have powered accessories like systems and what not; Optima will not warranty the red top if it malfunctions because it's only a 'starter' battery for OEM applications. Any add-ons, you're supposed to get the yellow top.

Also, the red top is NOT deep cycle. Everyone confuses this thinking all Optima batteries are deep cycle, the only deep cycle is yellow top, hence why red tops aren't warrantied with add-ons.

My yellow top cost me $180 CAN, which is about $160 USD

[SubiFlow]

what Mark said...i thought blue tops were the deep cycle, i have one on my shelf to jump the truck if i need it, two in the suburban (diesel) and a red top in the jeep. bought the current optima (dry cell) at kragens, have had that battery going on 5 years now.

[warrior]

what Mark said...i thought blue tops were the deep cycle, i have one on my shelf to jump the truck if i need it, two in the suburban (diesel) and a red top in the jeep. bought the current optima (dry cell) at kragens, have had that battery going on 5 years now.

The blue top is a marine battery for boats. :smile:

[d1giPhux]

I had a yellow top once.. and then i has to recycle it.. because it was TOTALLY dead.. i couldnt bring it back to life with a charge. This was in an accord i had.. so now, i just stick to regular batteries.. because even yellow tops die, and when they die.. its an expensive death! :lol:

[blackgtbeauty]

What group # yellow top should go into a 01 Legacy?

[warrior]

What group # yellow top should go into a 01 Legacy?

For a BD, they say get the D35 (http://www.remybattery.com/ProductInfo. ... ductid=D35 (http://www.remybattery.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=D35)) battery. The positive terminal is on the left side and it situated a little bit towards the middle of the battery (depth wise). They never had this one in Canada anywhere so I said screw it and got the D34/75 (http://www.remybattery.com/ProductInfo. ... D34/78-950 (http://www.remybattery.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=D34/78-950)) which has a little bit different situated terminals and has 2 additional terminals on the front for a different setup.

It really doesn't matter what battery you get, what you should look for is the same size (H x W x D) as your OEM one and the same amount of CCA.

The D34/78 battery I got is actually rated higher in CCA (higher CCA will not effect your car) and reserve capacity compared to the one that was recommended.

Since it was a little bit larger than OEM, I removed the plastic battery tray as this battery is a dry cell and has no need for a battery tray since acid will never spill out of it. Once the tray was removed, I used the same battery tie downs and had to cut the clip that held the positive lead to some part in the engine so I could have some more play to move it forward about an inch so it would fit on the terminal.

I'm guessing the engine bay has a very similar setup to your older BD.. if so, I'd get the D34 cause you might have a hard time finding the D35. The D34 is sold at Sam's Club, Costco and even Walmart.