auto transmission problems - torque bind?

[stellaholic]

I have a problem with the transmition on my 96 GTB. It all started off with me getting the rear end crabbing when doing low speed turns and reversing. I have since changed the rear diff (twice) for different ones. I did check the ratio by turning the prop coupling and checking the amount of turns they were the same as far as i could see. Since then i have changed all the fluids in the front diff auto box and rear diff. The problem i now have is its like its gone into a 50/50 torque split. The car is un driveable and wont pull. Why would i have this problem just by changing the fluids?


Thanks

Simon

Edited by Huffer for clearer thread title.

[Huffer]

1. TRANSMISSION

2. Torque bind.

Flush your AT fluid - the problem is with the transfer clutch packs or the DutyC solenoid INSIDE the transmission.

Either the transfer clutch packs are going bad, or the fluid is bad, or the DutyC solenoid is burnt out.

Quick check for this is to insert the FWD fuse in the engine bay (near the firewall, it's marked "FWD"). If the problem goes away then it's because the clutch packs are engaged into 50/50 mode.

If you can, find a bottle of "LubeGard ATF Protectant" and add that to your transmission fluid refill. Within 5 miles the problem should diminish, or disappear completely if you're lucky enough to catch the problem early.

If it's the DutyC solenoid, you have to crack the transmission open and replace it.

[stellaholic]

Thats fantastic thanks. I have tried the fwd fuse and the car is exactly the same. If im driving down the road or going over bumpy ground i can hear the tyres screetching like its locked up solid. I have changed the transmition fluid 3 times in the last month. I will try and get some lube guard but its hard to come by in the uk. Is there any way i can check the duty c solenoid without splitting the box?


Thanks

Simon

[Huffer]

AFAIK you have to split the box to check the dutyc...

The lubegard totally got rid of my torque bind situation - been 30,000miles now and it's still rocking strong.

[stellaholic]

I have a spare box which i have split the back end off. There is only one thing in there with a cable on it. Is that the bit that needs changing or do i have to change the whole assembly around it? Im trying to get hold of some lubeguard but its not available in the uk in many places. I have someone to ring tomorrow see if they can supply it.

Thanks

Simon

[Huffer]

I've reached the end of my expertise in this area - but if you do a search for "DutyC" on www.usmb.net (http://www.usmb.net) you should net some good info!

[Chicago96GT]

Sorry to post in your thread and all but i dont know what this is and you just explained it. I mean you said that before all this when you are reversing or turning slow you would get kinda a crunch in the rear diff, i get this also and only in slow speeds. Should i change my fluids or does my diff need to go? Also what exactly is this and is it bad when i hear it.

[stellaholic]

I have found a uk distributer of lube guard so i have ordered 2 bottles. Will put that in before i start stripping stuff out. Watch this space :)
One other thing i have noticed is my speedo is not working since i have had this problem. Can this be anything to do with the problem?

Thanks
Simon

[Huffer]

Speedo sensor is on the transmission as well (mounted to the outside) - they can fail. They're a cheap part to replace, and are unrelated to the torque bind issue.

[Huffer]

Sorry to post in your thread and all but i dont know what this is and you just explained it. I mean you said that before all this when you are reversing or turning slow you would get kinda a crunch in the rear diff, i get this also and only in slow speeds. Should i change my fluids or does my diff need to go? Also what exactly is this and is it bad when i hear it.

Torque bind is where the auto-tranmission will not release the rear wheels when making small, low speed turns. The rear wheels try to turn at the same speed (RPMs) as the front ones, resulting in the rear tires scrubbing.

The cheap solution is to change all your fluids first, and if the problem doesn't go away, then you have a mechanical problem. Follow the instructions in prev. posts to diagnose the problem.

[stellaholic]

Thanks for the replies you have been very helpfull. This problem started when i changed the fluids, I have spent a small fortune on fluids and oils the last couple of months.

Simon

[Huffer]

Changing the fluids... did you make sure you got the right grade?

It might also just be coinicidence.

[stellaholic]

Ok i have added the lube guard. and changed the rear diff (again). The car is actually driveable now but seems very down on power and every now and then i get a metalic noise from the gearbox and loads of vibration. If i then drop it into neutral and back into drive it seems ok again???? I have disconnected the battery for a few hours to reset the tcu then started the car and no power light flashing. When i then stop and restart i get the power light flashing 16 times.

The car is a 1996 GTB can anyone tell me what 16 flashes means? I think it could be the duty c but would like it confirmedbefore i start stripping it.

Thanks once again.

Simon