DIY Replace Driveaxle CV Joint

[Tazmaniandevil]

Tools required: Torque wrench and ratchet, plus 32mm socket for driveaxle, 19mm socket and 19mm spanner for strut bolts & tie rod end, ball joint splitter & hammer for tie rod end; pliers to cut old gaiter tie-wraps off; pliers or side cutters to trim cable ties; Trolley jack, axle stands, wheel key.

Before jacking the car up, loosen the big locking nut at the end of the driveaxle. Jack the car up and place on axle stands, then remove the road wheels. I undid the tie-rod end, and removed the two bolts holding the strut to the hub assembly. Some prefer to undo the bottom ball joint and swing the hub away with the strut. One thing to note: If you are undoing the strut from the hub, mark the position first otherwise it will screw up the steering geometry.
Take the big nut off the end of the shaft and free the shaft from the hub assembly. Undo the bands or tie-wraps on the CV gaiter and slide the gaiter along the shaft out of the way.
Use a G-clamp to clamp the driveaxle to the lower steering arm, and tap the inner race of the CV joint with a hammer until it slides free. Hold the shaft as well while you do this, in case the shaft pops out of the gearbox. (like mine did)
With the CV joint off the shaft, clean everything with degreaser and change the circlip on the shaft. (you should get a new one with the joint.)
Take the old gaiter off the shaft and slide on the new one. Slide the new CV joint on to the shaft until it stops against the circlip. Put the old nut on the end of the shaft and put your 32mm socket over the nut. Tap the end of the socket until the shaft is fully home in the joint. You should hear a click as the circlip pops into place. Fill the new joint with the grease supplied, and fix the new gaiter with bands supplied or cable ties.
Assembly is the reverse of removal. Slide the driveaxle back through the hub assembly and fit the new nut. Align the hub assembly with the strut, refit the bolts and tighten to 98-119Ft/Lbs. Refit the tie-rod end and tighten to 19-21Ft/Lbs. Fit a new split pin.
Refit road wheels then remove axle stands and lower car to road. Tighten the driveaxle locking nut to 123-151Ft/Lbs. My torque wrench only goes up to 120Ft/Lbs so it was tighten to that then stand on the torque wrench for about 1/4 turn. Hope that's OK. Hammer the wall of the nut into the groove in the shaft to prevent it loosening.
Test drive.
Job-Done.

Difficulty: Much easier than I first imagined.
Time Taken: Less than 2 hours.

[deadlydave]

GAH! I just got my car back from the shop on tuesday! I had this done!

Good job on the writeup though. :razz:

[Legacy]

I just got a quote from the shop to replace the front driveaxel cv joints, and the total comes out to $800.00. Now I don't have that kind money to spend, but I do have time to do this on my day off. Excellent writeup. I was wondering if anyone has pictures that take you through the entire work.

[Brockley]

I just got a quote from the shop to replace the front driveaxel cv joints, and the total comes out to $800.00. Now I don't have that kind money to spend, but I do have time to do this on my day off. Excellent writeup. I was wondering if anyone has pictures that take you through the entire work.


WTF????

new axles are like 90 from advanced!!!

[sharky nrk]

With on on core exchange they are like 60

[Huffer]

I'm going to be tackling this in a couple of weeks. New front axles and suspension going on...

I picked up 2 axles for $100 shipped, new from an ebay seller.

This weekend I will be soaking every exposed bolt in PB blaster. My car will probably catch on fire.

Any additional tips?

[Mikey97D]

Huffer - if you do the method of disconnecting the lower ball joint, be careful not to rip the boot around the lower ball joint. If you could take a picture while it apart, would appreciate it! When they replaced my axle under warranty, they ripped the boot, so by the end of winter you know what I'll be doing.

[Monkhouse]

I just did this a few months ago. Only the boot was torn, but it was easier to just replace the half shaft in one piece. Total out of pocket after the core exchange, $84. That included the torque wrench and 32mm socket and beer. Get someone to help. Even if they just hand you tools, it makes the time go faster.

[jey]

Before jacking the car up, loosen the big locking nut at the end of the driveaxle.
Just reviewed the DIY and the FSM procedure on this since I'm going to try to change the axles tomorrow. The FSM specifically says NOT to do this!

From the FSM:

CAUTION: Be sure to loosen and retighten axle nut AFTER removing wheel from vehicle. Failure to follow this rule may damage wheel bearings.

The proper procedure is to apply the brakes while breaking the axle nut loose. Guess this is a two-person job...

[jey]

The proper procedure is to apply the brakes while breaking the axle nut loose. Guess this is a two-person job...

And not only that, but you need the hydraulic pressure of the brakes in order to have enough clamping force while tightening/untightening, I found out.

By the way, I managed to change my left axle today. Couldn't get the control arm off the ball joint at ALL, I was standing on a 4 foot breaker bar and jumped on it and bent it and still nothing. Finally I figured out I could loosen the ball joint off the hub, that was WAY easier. Guess I mess up my Cotter Pin for nothing too :sigh: Well I know better for the next side.

Which I can't do this weekend because I managed to destroy one of my new axles while installing it. While getting the holes to line up on the transmission side I managed to twist it and pull apart all the inner bits of the DOJ. Doh. Good thing it's only $44... and good thing I had two axles ready to be installed.

[T_F_E]

also note that you should use a new axle nut

[Tazmaniandevil]

also note that you should use a new axle nut

Assembly is the reverse of removal. Slide the driveaxle back through the hub assembly and fit the new nut.
Indeed, yes.

[trockyh]

New to forum, just got a bid to replace one side as boot is torn. $225 didn't sound too bad except I'm not working much at the moment. This doesn't sound difficult and I have the time. Anyone take pictures of this procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

[BRSleeper2]

Not sure if I should start new topic, but I would thing it would be good to add on to this topic... I am having a trouble releasing the lower ball joint from the spindle... any advise would help me and others I am sure. My goal is to replace my spindle as I have found a very very small crack near the lower ball joint. Oh 1999 legacy L. I am a Chevy Man, but have found much love for this little subaru, 78 Monte in the summer and Subaru in the winter.

[jey]

Not sure if I should start new topic, but I would thing it would be good to add on to this topic... I am having a trouble releasing the lower ball joint from the spindle... any advise would help me and others I am sure. My goal is to replace my spindle as I have found a very very small crack near the lower ball joint. Oh 1999 legacy L. I am a Chevy Man, but have found much love for this little subaru, 78 Monte in the summer and Subaru in the winter.

I had the same problem:


Couldn't get the control arm off the ball joint at ALL, I was standing on a 4 foot breaker bar and jumped on it and bent it and still nothing. Finally I figured out I could loosen the ball joint off the hub, that was WAY easier. Guess I mess up my Cotter Pin for nothing too :sigh: Well I know better for the next side.

[BRSleeper2]

I know I can release it from hub/spindle... But I want to replace the ball joint... Have ordered hub, spindle, and lower control arm for a really good price off ebay... But I am still gonna try and save my control arm by removing it and working the ball joint out on a vise with heat I think... I do appreciate your reply though.

[massdrewski]

with car on level serface and in neutral I took a 32mm Drive socket to loosen up the Nut. you will need to take a screw driver and a hammer to take the dent out of the flange.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2352-1.jpg
And with the Nut off
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2353-1.jpg

First off. Safety First. I used my 3ton jack to lift up and then placed two jack stands under on the support beam. Please notice the license plate ;)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2349-1.jpg


You do not need to do this but I used my jack to lift up and simply suport the suspension like so. I did this so that as I took the bolts out, that there would be less stress on the suspension. this is your choice to do. I just found it easier to take the bolts out without having the suspension sagging down as I extracted them.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2357-1.jpg


Next you will need to take out two 19mm bolts connecting to the Hub.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2355-1.jpg

with the jack in place there should be almost no movement from the suspension.


next, the bolt shown here.
Use two 17mm sockets and remove. after removing, I used a small pry bar to loosen it up a bit. I found some rust and dirt holding it in place.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2356-1.jpg

Now lower your jack to allow your suspension to fully lower.



I then called my Brother in the help with this one. He took a hammer and a large screw driver while I pulled back on the rotor. I pulled back slightly while he gently tapped it out. took a little bit to get it but soon she popped right now with ease.


I crawled under the car with a good light to look at where the Axle connected to. I had my brother slowly turn the Hub until I was able to see this....
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2362-1.jpg

I took my small hammer and Nail set to tap the pin out. Inspect your new axle before doing this. you will see the Hole that you will be taping out. I suggest to you to find a nail set that will freely fit into the hole but not too freely. There are two side on this. one with an angled groove and one flat. the angled grove is the entry for the pin.
I tapped the pin out opposite of the angled grooved hole. The pin came out with ease. I then asked him to Rotate the Hub 180*. I marked on the trans/dif with perm/marker when the hole was. I used a prybar to slightly loosen the axle as my brother pulled. it too came out with ease.

I prepared the new axle (not much other than taking out of the box and greasing it a bit). I installed the neck that fits into the Hub itself first. Then with my brother turning the Hub I was able to Match it up to the hole. I made a mark on the new axle with a marker to make it a bit easier to guide in.

After it is fitted properly you should be able to look through the hole and see light at the end of the tunnel. if you can see this...then it is in!
I then jacked up the hub to take weight off for the clean up and re-install of the bolts etc.

I used the original write up to help me and thought it would be nice to take some pics along the way. THANK YOU OP!

random pics.


https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2360-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2364-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/th_DSCF2215-1.jpg (http://s459.photobucket.com/albums/qq311/apike1982/?action=view&current=DSCF2215.flv)

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/09/DSCF2345-1.jpg

[Grafton]

why did you go the route of removing the lower control arm instead of just popping the knuckle from the ball joint?

[massdrewski]

I spoke with my friend who worked at two different Subaru dealerships before doing this. He said that it is easier to do it this way. I guess to each their own.

[Grafton]

i guess i'll have to try it that way and see

[green97gt]

HELP!!!!!!!

so did i just bone myself?

i was doing the CV axle and when i went to slide it out that little 6inch(or so) shaft that the CV axle splines ON to came out of the DIFF.

the other end of that little shaft splined onto something inside the diff and there is a circlip on that end.

did i just totally screw myself?

if not, how do you go about putting it back in?

HELP..

car is in pieces in the driveway.

[Huffer]

^^ do you have a pic? based on what you are saying, you're doing the rear CV?

[green97gt]

nope, it was a front CV

i called up the dealership and asked them about it, the tech laughed at me(which is ok by me) and told me that they do it all the time when the pins wont come out, just yank hard on the CV shaft and that little shaft that sticks out of the diff will slide out with the CV shaft... then take the pin out on a bench.

then just grease up that diff shaft and make sure you hear it click when you put it back in

the little shaft im talking about is part 11
http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/u ... nsmission/ (http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_8/train/differential_transmission/)

i imagined it would damage the oil seal right there, but the tech guy said no...we will see...

[dodik]

if you didnt screw up the seal than its no big deal but if you did and have to unscrew that cap make sure you mark where it sits now so you can tighten it into the same place. otherwise you would need to do a shitload of work on your fron differential.

[green97gt]

if you did and have to unscrew that cap make sure you mark where it sits now so you can tighten it into the same place. otherwise you would need to do a shitload of work on your fron differential.

oh yeah, ive done front diff seals before. but thanks for the info.

a buddy of mine just counted the number of turns on that cap, and must not have gotten it lined up right, his diff lasted about 3 months after that.

EDIT:

when doing this CV axle, i tried to do it by removing the lower control arm, cause im broke and was worried about screwing up(and having to replace) the ball joint if i tried to remove it.

the two 19MM bolts came out like cake
the 17MM bolt/nut i got on with a 2 ft breaker bar and i could NOT budge it, i soaked it in PB Blaster and still nothing, so i just put the two 19mm bolts back in and popped the ball joint out, which came out very easily. much easier than the balljoints on the SVX

EDIT X2:

the pin i had is mangled... i did not get another with the CV i purchased. i put it back in, but could spin it fairly easily. so i am worried about it flying out.

can the CV axle REALLY come dis-engaged from the diff without this pin? it would seem to me that for that to happen you would need to have some other serious issues, like a wheel being jerked off the car...

but they must have put it there for a reason, so i should put something there..the local parts stores dont have a pin this size, so i could go to the dealer, OR what is i juat put a small, correct length bolt thu it with a lock nut on the other end?

[jey]

Go to the dealer. I mutilated mine too while installing it, and it was less than a dollar.

[green97gt]

ill be heading to the dealer then.....