This is driving me crazy

[Sarra]

3,000 miles ago, I changed my oil. Right after changing it, the car ran like crap for about 500 miles. Lumpy acceleration, okay gas milage, bad bogging when the car is cold. It stopped, and was smoothe and happy. Then, I changed the oil again, and now it's running like shit again. When I drained out the old oil, there was only 3.5 qts, the other qt probably leaked out from whatever is leaking.

I was afraid I had overfilled it, but I had also dropped a considerable amount of oil down the side of the block because I'm a complete klutz. The oil dip stick shows that the oil level is just short of F.

Anyone have any ideas? No sign of foamy oil. I did notice that there was a nice residue in the crank case vacuum hoses. If it's overfilled, will it vent oil into the intake via the crankcase breathers?

[Reason]

If it's overfilled, will it vent oil into the intake via the crankcase breathers?

Yes it will, shit if you overfill the oil it will go anywhere it can. Maybe you should fab up some sort of oil catch can. I did this to my old Accord and it trapped a lot of blow buy via the breather. That should smooth things out and help MPG. For shits check your plugs too for oil.

The catch can you can make for around $15.

[Sarra]

I talked to a local guru today on the phone about getting my CV joints checked, as well as the front UV joints. I mentioned this to him in passing and he told me to fix my idle bypass vacuum fitting. "If there's even a small leak there, it would sure explain the missing oil." I fixed it temporarily, and wow, it's very different. No more surging/bucking, it just feels better. Going to create a new connection for the fitting, and make it more serviceable. So, I got the answer to two questions at the same time!

Definatly didn't overfill it, though.

[Huffer]

Throw up a pic of the idle bypass location - it might help others.

[Sarra]

Huge pic alert... Here's a picture of the brass fitting I use to connect the idle bypass to the intake.

http://biyofan.joeyteel.com/groundmod/img_0412.jpg

This intake was designed for an 00' + MAP equipped NA car. I used the MAP bung for the idle bypass.

Here you can see the overall intake setup, the Idle bypass goes into the intake just before the TB.

http://biyofan.joeyteel.com/groundmod/img_0408.jpg

My mechanic told me that there is a gap between the fitting and the intake. I'm going to enlarge the MAP hole, insert a rubber bushing, insert the brass fitting, and then use a nut to secure it in place, which will squish the bushing and create a very solid, air-tight idle bypass anchor point.

If you look through that directory, you can see how crappy of a job I did on the grounding mod, which has since been redone. I also ditched the cone filter, since the bracket broke.

[Wiscon_Mark]

What kind of oil are you using?

[Plays_with_Toys]

I would think that set up wouldn't work well simply because the air has to travel so far, and it is being registered by the maf so much earlier...?

[Sarra]

I would think that set up wouldn't work well simply because the air has to travel so far, and it is being registered by the maf so much earlier...?

Doesn't have much of an issue that I can tell. When it is sealed properly, it runs just fine. I'm going to hack a MAF sensor I got from another member here, put a cone filter in the fender well, and not have the stock airbox anymore. Pics eventually... Also, the actual vacuum hose I'm using is about 3x longer than the original, it actually loops over the intake itself, so there probably isn't any appreciable difference in it anyway. Plus, the stock intake was falling apart, there were leaks and holes in it, so it runs better now than it did stock.

Running Mobile 1 full synthetic, 10W 30.