98 OB Tranny Question

[caoutback]

I've got a 98 LOB Limited with 5mt. I know my pilot bearing is going but I've had trouble shifting a couple times. I was climbing a hill in 3rd when I got it (completely stock at the time) and had it up around 5k rpms.

Went to shift into 4th but was unable to due so, like it was "locked out". I was able to put it back into 3rd and even 5th, but bogged the engine. Then was able to down shift into 4th. WTF? Took it to the dealership and they said everything was fine. Since then I haven't had that problem.
But, another two have popped up.

My clutch pedal isn't returning now (saw the fix it on it so don't worry about that) but wonder if it's ok to drive like that til I fix it.

Also, twice I've tried to put it in reverse and got nothing but grinding when trying (like clutch isn't pushed in) on two separate occasions many miles apart.

Pumped the clutch both times and tried again with same results. Was able to get it into reverse but had to grind it in both times. It grinds lightly some times when putting it into reverse, but not always.

Is it time for a GT tranny or is something "cheaper" to fix than replace? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

[JourdanWithaU]

I also a 98' Outback with a 5MT.... I am also experiencing many of the same problems...

hopefully someone here will have some answers...

[Sarra]

Oddly enough, I'm on my third Legacy, and the BK I have now is the only one that isn't having problems with the clutch not returning, whereas my previous BK and BE did have that problem.

For not getting into 4th gear, that could have been a syncro problem. Might also have been something with your shifting, or maybe the clutch wasn't fully depressed. Dunno on that one.

My 1998 BK GT has the reverse problem, grinds and grinds and grinds. Usually, I pop it in second, then straight into R. It'll 'thunk', but no grinding.

The 1995 BK was the best car, the syncros were really well done on it. I could pop that car into first gear going 80 mph on the freeway, it just slid into place. My current BK won't go into first unless I rev match, or it's going under 20 mph. I tried switching to Royal Purple, but honestly, it hasn't made enough difference on my first and third gears to make it worth it. Though, second, fourth, and fifth are noticeably better...

The BE had the worst gearbox of the three cars. I think the previous owner beat it, every gear had bad syncros... The dealership replaced the syncro on first and fifth gears under warranty, and both went bad within 200 miles of me getting it back from the dealership.

If you want a good gearbox, grab a WRX 5 speed. I think the WRX 5 speed would have shorter gears, but should still be fun. Or, spend money well on a PPG gearset. Get their helical syncro box for a transmission that will last forever under normal driving, or a dog box straight cut gears for a gearbox that will survive competition driving.

[deadlydave]

If you go wrx, stay away from the 02-03 trannies. They're not known for their toughness.

[Sarra]

If you go wrx, stay away from the 02-03 trannies. They're not known for their toughness.

An 02 WRX 5MT would be stronger and better designed than a 1999 LGT 5 speed. Good luck braking a WRX gearbox in a Legacy or Outback without SERIOUSLY trying hard.

[deadlydave]

You make a good point Sarra. But if the tranny's gonna be used, then the damage may have already been done.

So new, I guess it doesn't matter.

[Sarra]

You make a good point Sarra. But if the tranny's gonna be used, then the damage may have already been done.

So new, I guess it doesn't matter.

Haha, that's a good point as well. If you get it in used condition, and it works fine without any problems, then it should keep working fine as you'll only be sending ~160 hp through it and it's rated for ~230. If you rev it up to redline and dump the clutch repeatedly in second gear, you might break it, but then you would be breaking a LGT gearbox anyway.

[caoutback]

OK, so should I just replace the gears and synchros with new for a LGT? I know they are stronger than the regular Legacys and WRXs (so my friend says. He replaced the tranny in his WRX with an LGT). Or should I just replace it with a new tranny (STi 6spd preferred). I would assume it'd be cheaper to replace the gears and synchros than get a new tranny, not used. And being a hydro clutch I'd have to get a WRX one that is the same, if I went WRX, right?

[jey]

OK, so should I just replace the gears and synchros with new for a LGT? I know they are stronger than the regular Legacys and WRXs (so my friend says. He replaced the tranny in his WRX with an LGT). Or should I just replace it with a new tranny (STi 6spd preferred). I would assume it'd be cheaper to replace the gears and synchros than get a new tranny, not used. And being a hydro clutch I'd have to get a WRX one that is the same, if I went WRX, right?

Woah, before you talk about expensive transmission replacements that cost thousands of dollars (and yes an STi tranny would be more expensive) - have you even determined yet that your problem is not that you need a new clutch? Or even a clutch adjustment issue? If you can't get the tranny into gear that is not always a synchro issue, it could be that your clutch is not disengaging all the way...

[caoutback]

Woah, before you talk about expensive transmission replacements that cost thousands of dollars (and yes an STi tranny would be more expensive) - have you even determined yet that your problem is not that you need a new clutch? Or even a clutch adjustment issue? If you can't get the tranny into gear that is not always a synchro issue, it could be that your clutch is not disengaging all the way...
No I have not determined clutch issues yet, it's only happened twice for reverse in the last 5k miles or so and about 5k miles apart, just ALOT worse the second time (it does sometimes grind going into reverse, but not as bad as the two I mentioned [like the gears are not lined up]). The "locked out of 4th" issue was a one time only deal, but I have noticed that sometimes when in the higher revs going from 1st to 2nd, that it'll grind. I'm going to be ordering my clutch and flywheel by the end of the month and start their.

[Sarra]

I know that there have been changes to the subaru 5 speed transmissions, even year to year, in regards to syncros. You'll need to find gears that will work for you, if you end up swapping in a different gear set.

[mranlet]

Reverse issue:
You're hearing the blocking ring on reverse, which is particurlarly tightly gated on many Subarus. Try putting it into 1st and then revere without lifting the clutch - works every time for me.

Clutch/lockout issue:
Due to the design of the subaru slave cylinder location on push type (non turbo) transmissions, the slave cylinder may jiggle back and fourth at idle. At high rpm if this jiggle is bad enough it will foam the clutch fluid and cause the pedal to not fully engage or to not return. Try bleeding the line with fresh fluid or maybe even upgrading to DOT 4 or 5 fluid.

Grindy and Whiney:
Uncle Scotty's cocktail will fix quite a bit (1q MOS2 or GM friction modifier, 1q Redline high impact, 2q LSD additive 75w90 gear oil). Otherwise, I'd reccomend using a 1999 FM4 (IIRC) housing as found on 2.5RS. Having pounded the crap out of many a Subaru gearbox, these seem to have the best combination or thrust-force-resistant gearset and durable center section. I'd reccomend against using a WRX transmission unless you want to mess with getting a new flywheel, pressureplate, slave and disc for the pull-type clutch engagement as found on turbo Subarus.