Anyone got a DIY for changing brake pads?

[SilentRacer]

Or what tools I'll need and what trouble i might run across.

[sharky nrk]

there may be one out there, but I will give you a quickie off the top of my head

tools:

jack
jackstands
3/8 or 1/2 drive ratchet
a few extentions for ratchet 6 in and 3 in are common
19 mm socket
14mm / 12mm socket
caliper tool / c-clamp / wood
torque wrench


first jack up the car and secure is safely on jack stands

open the hood

use a 19mm socket and remove the lug nuts and wheels

now there are two sets of bolts on the back on the caliper/knuckle, one holds the caliper on the knuckle and the other holds the sliding caliper pins. the ones closer to the axle are the caliper mouting bolts, the ones further outboard are the sliders

you want to use a 14mm or 12mm honestly I cannot remember for sure but its one of the two to break loose the top slider. This will allow you to pivot the caliper clockwise downward off the rotor without removing the caliper/rotor/brake line.

pull the pads out and remove the hardware (shims clips ect if you are reusing them)

now most likey if your pads are worn you need to depress the caliper pistons to fit the new pads. They make a tool for this that is really nice, but you can also use a stout piece of wood to do the same or a stout c clamp.

remove the brake MC cap and set aside

take your tool/wood/c-clamp and push the piston back into the bore until you will feel like the pad will fit

assemble shims clips and hardware on pads

insert pads and reswivel the caliper

reinsert the 12/14mm slider and retighten to like 30 ft.lbs or something (I will look up the correct torque later in the FSM for you)

put wheels on and torque lugs to 75 ft.lbs

DONE

[Huffer]

You forgot to replace the brake MC cap...

[sharky nrk]

Oh...... And replace the m/c cap lol :grin:

[SilentRacer]

never seen anyone replace that, just wash it with brake cleaner.

[shazapple]

I use a piece of rope and tie the caliper to the shock so when I remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub it doesn't hang by the brake line.

[sharky nrk]

not replace like get a new one - replace like put it back in its place - this is just not my morning lol :neutral:

[sharky nrk]

I use a piece of rope and tie the caliper to the shock so when I remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub it doesn't hang by the brake line.

when I take the caliper off I do that as well, with one of the bolts still holding it in I don't really bother, not alot of tension on the line

[SilentRacer]

I found a pretty nice guide online for subys, It pretty much sums up what you guys said with pics.
http://www.weblumen.com/subaru/brakepads.html

[rougeben83]

Oh yeah, if you want to have more room to maneuver your tools and break the bolts, turn the streering wheel right or left and you can see the backside of the caliper better.

It's a 14mm for the bolt caliper to bracket, 17mm bracket to hub. (I've done this twice already :lol:)

Don't forget to grease your slider pins too while you're at it.

[Sarra]

Don't forget penetrating grease. I needed half a can for my last brake job, there's a bit of oxidation on my calipers (they're going to turn into dust soon)

[sharky nrk]

Oh yeah, if you want to have more room to maneuver your tools and break the bolts, turn the streering wheel right or left and you can see the backside of the caliper better.

It's a 14mm for the bolt caliper to bracket, 17mm bracket to hub. (I've done this twice already :lol:)

Don't forget to grease your slider pins too while you're at it.

for the fronts :wink: - I think its 14 for hubs in rear as well