Negative Camber problem

[subaru_terrence]

Few weeks ago, when I was doing oil changed, the mechanic at the dealership told me to go in and showed me how bad of my negative camber of my rear tires. He told me to fix the problem asap and replace the tires. They rotated those 2 rear tires to the front. They had less tread than the front tires for some reason. I thought I would able to use those tires until I put on my winters.
However, on friday night after I finished my midterm, I was cruising on hwy and I noticed there's something wrong with my front right side, so I decided to get off the hwy as soon as the next exit came...unfortunately, I couldnt.....my front right rim was touching the ground already and I had to pull over on the shoulder. Got off the car...my 3/4 of my tire was completely gone. All I had left was my sidewalls...rim was totally damaged.

When I got home, put on my stockers and I realized my front left tire which was originally from the rear had some siginificantly damaged too.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/10/IMG_3835-1.jpg


Here is the thing, after I lowered my car, I got my alignment done already. But there is still some negative camber. I am just wondering what can I do to fix my front and rear negative camber problem on my 02 legacy L

This is my alignment result:
Left Front: -1.31 degree camber
3.16 caster
0 Toe

Right Front: - 0.91 degree camber
3.02 degree caster
0.01 degree toe


Left Rear: - 0.62 degree camber
0.01 degree toe

Right Rear: -.76 degree camber
0 toe

Is it true that I cant put camber bolts in the rear?

[rougeben83]

How often did you rotate the tires?

less than one degree of negative camber shouldn't wear your tires down that much if you lowered it recently.

You can try adding crash bolts to the front or camber plates, to get more positive camber (assuming your stock camber bolts are already maxed out).

You have a BE right? I don't think the rears have camber adjustment - it's not listed in the subbie service manual at least.

I would get that toe checked out; it's the more common cause of premature tire wear than camber.

Heck, Id get an alignment at another place to make sure all your settings are as they say.

Other than that...new tires, and rotate them more frequently.

[subaru_terrence]

I got my alignment done in March...I didnt put on the RE070s till May.

I put maximum 13000 - 14000km on them. The tires were rotated whenever I went to dealership for oil change. Therefore, they were rotated every 6000km.

I seriously didnt expect they wear out so fast.

Is there anywhere I can order whiteline camber bolts? I am located in Canada.


By the way, I am assuming dealership is the safetest bet for getting my new alignment done instead of random garages?

[ivwarrior]

By the way, I am assuming dealership is the safetest bet for getting my new alignment done instead of random garages?

Never assume. Ask your local friends/family/local racing community, etc. The dealer may be your best choice, or it could be your worst, depending on who actually does the work there, how experienced the person is with alignments and how much they care. A local tire shop may be a better choice, again, depending on the same criteria.

[rougeben83]

I got my alignment done in March...I didnt put on the RE070s till May.

I put maximum 13000 - 14000km on them. The tires were rotated whenever I went to dealership for oil change. Therefore, they were rotated every 6000km.

I seriously didnt expect they wear out so fast.

Is there anywhere I can order whiteline camber bolts? I am located in Canada.


By the way, I am assuming dealership is the safetest bet for getting my new alignment done instead of random garages?

Depends on what kind of alignment you want to get :wink:

7k miles on RE070's...where they used? They do wear out faster than even a regular summer tire, so that's one strike right there.

Check with Whiteline's US distributor. I think they're Global perfomance (ordered swaybar bushings from there). They should be able to ship to you.

You can use whatever camber bolts work for a WRX or any other Subaru with macpherson suspension TBH. I think tirerack even sells them.

If you don't mind a slight increase in NVH, I would suggest camber plates - they have a lot more range in movement and the pillowball makes handling better (quicker turn-in and steering response).

[subaru_terrence]

What is NVH? :P

I used my tires most of the time on highway..Never went to track with them.

Does speed really affect how fast the tires wear out?

In average...I drove around 120-140km/h

[subaru_terrence]

I would get that toe checked out; it's the more common cause of premature tire wear than camber.


One more thing, the alignment result said 0 degree for toe...isnt that mean the toe is fine?

[rougeben83]

total it's 0, but look at the toe in your right front and left rear. They should at least try to get each one to 0.

I would get a higher-treadwear rated tire. The RE070's are sticky, but they have like 180 treadwear (typical performance summer tire is 250-300, almost TWICE as long).

NVH = noise, vibration, etc.

[ivwarrior]

total it's 0, but look at the toe in your right front and left rear. They should at least try to get each one to 0.


They're .01. Do you realize how insignificant a difference that is? You can literally tap the tire with all the bolts tight and cause the reading to change by that much......

[RadeOn]

Depending on climate and driving style 7k out of re070 could be a reasonable outcome. There's a guy at local subaru club that buys those cheap and autocrosses them, they stick, but don't last that long. Those alignment specs should not cause problems, if those are correct. I suspect they aren't, and you have a toe-out in the back.

[subaru_terrence]

Thanks for everyone's helps

Toronto is around 27+ celcius over the summer...July was over 30 i believe.

I didnt drive too aggressive with them

The toe out is 0.01 degree...does it really affect?

By the way, my next set of tires will be either Toyo Proxes 4 or Kumho Escta supra 712. Which set do you guys prefer?

[rougeben83]

No, but like I said, check your alignment anyway. It's been 6 months since you've had them checked and from the looks of the inner shoulder wear, it may be worth checking out. You couldve ran over something or something else is going on with the suspension to warrant concern.

You're going to spend $400+ on tires. $70 for an alignment to make sure your new set, won't get the same wear as you old set is worth the investment.

PS: most shops do recommend you get your alignment checked when you buy new tires anyway fwiw

[subaru_terrence]

No, but like I said, check your alignment anyway. It's been 6 months since you've had them checked and from the looks of the inner shoulder wear, it may be worth checking out. You couldve ran over something or something else is going on with the suspension to warrant concern.

You're going to spend $400+ on tires. $70 for an alignment to make sure your new set, won't get the same wear as you old set is worth the investment.

PS: most shops do recommend you get your alignment checked when you buy new tires anyway fwiw

right now, my friend just told me there's a shop which sells camber bolts and do alignment as well. he got everything done with his sti in that shop as well.
I am just wondering if I should just keep my friend's BE stock rims with some general tires to get the alignment done or not...

Keep this in mind, I will be using my own stock rims with winter tires during winter....

I cant put on my 17s right now since I cant find any replacement for my rota torque. I asked my local shop and it said it would take 3 months to ship the new rim. :S

[sharky nrk]

those numbers are totally ok

I run -2.5 degress of front camber and -1.5 degrees in the rear with zero issues

perhaps a little more tire wear than most would like but you did not damage anything because of that alignment - somethings else is at charge

[rougeben83]

We're all assuming that you alignment is still the same as it was in March. The fact that you had it done not too long ago doesn't change the fact that something may have changed it. Also, a lot of other suspension problems can be found via diagnosis from an alignment (like my left control is shifted from hitting a really big pothole last year).

Get the tires first, then get the alignment. It's useless to use a different set of wheels/tires that you'll never even run on the car after the alignment. Just eliminate as many variables that is under *your* control to make it easier to find out the problem of your premature wear. After you get the alignment, see if you do need camber bolts or any other fix to the suspension.

[subaru_terrence]

I guess I will put on my winter tires as soon as possible and get my alignment done again so I can have proper alignment during the winter...may be I will get another new alignment when I have my 17s again.

I cant get a replacement of my rota torque until 3 months later. :S

[omahasubaru]

your listed alignment specs seem fine, but I'd venture to guess those were last time you had one done and not your cars current state??

toe kills tires faster than camber ever will... but you have hardly any of both per your specs.

Get it on a reliable alignment rack and see where it is exactly.

Jon

[subaru_terrence]

I just drove on hwy for about 45 mins....I realized that if my car went pass 100km/h, my steering wheel has little vibration...and when I brake...my steering wheel actually shakes :S

Is that mean it screwed up my alignment?

[omahasubaru]

I just drove on hwy for about 45 mins....I realized that if my car went pass 100km/h, my steering wheel has little vibration...and when I brake...my steering wheel actually shakes :S

Is that mean it screwed up my alignment?

not necessarily.

braking could be warped rotors or anythings like even worn out suspension bushings.

YOU NEED TO GET AN ALIGNMENT and see where your at and go from there.