Need help removing door panel to install pass speaker

[Duff]

I just bought the Haynes manual and it is somewhat vague about removing the door panel to install the front passenger speaker.

I need to know the tricks to getting to the speaker so I can replace it.

Any help will be most greatly appreciated.

I'm sure hundreds of people have been through this door panel removal quandry before me. Your help will be really appreciated.

I'm not sure what speaker size it is either.

I'm dealing with my '95 Legacy wagon. A great car. Has the eighty watt cassette deck type HU.

Thanks,

Duffy

[suba-rude]

pull off mirror screw covers

screw and cap to left of lock(phillips)

cover over screw on door closer handle (#3 phillips)

start pulling at bottom

watch the plastic push pin that butts up against dash board

unplug speaker 3 phillips screws hold it in place
replace
reinstall

anything else guys??

[Duff]

I have power windows. Will the door opener be a problem?

I really want to get on this job but don't feel that I have enough info to start tearing into that door panel without some tips and such.

Reaching out,

Duffy

[subba]

the handle might be a little Problem, the Passenger seats are the easiest

Pull this thing off (literally pull it off)and pull off the tweeter inside also but not much force is required.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e12/boxertech/DSCF0515.jpg

Next Pull these caps off and screw the screws out
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e12/boxertech/DSCF0519.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e12/boxertech/DSCF0517.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e12/boxertech/DSCF0516.jpg

Next all you need to do is start pulling the panel off (don't worry about breaking anything cuz you wont), i normally start pulling from where the speaker is.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e12/boxertech/DSCF0518.jpg



Ones all the clips are pulled hold the door opener while you pull the bottom of the panel and move upwards, after that you should see the power window connection, just pull that out and after that just disconnect the door light and you're good to go.

Size:
The size if i can remember correctly is 6.5 but the problem is to find a set of speakers that have a small magnet, if you get a big magnet speaker it will conflict with the windows unless you get a spacer that puts the speaker further from the door itself and closer to the panel.
Its discussed in this thread. Their is even some speakers mentioned their that will fit without spacers.
http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=4834

Polarity: shazapple Laid it our for ya in this thread

Left Front (+) Yellow
Left Front (-) Blue/Red
Right Front (+) White
Right Front (-) Blue/Black
Left Rear (+) Yellow/White
Left Rear (-) Blue/Red
Right Rear (+) White/Blue
Right Rear (-) Blue/Black
http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=2713

[Duff]

Installed a pair of Kenwood speakers with three way sound. Six and a half inch speakers. Really sound good. Now I want to get a new Kenwood head unit installed. I found one that would be good. They only produce twenty two watts per channel with fifty watt peaks. I don't understand why they are so low. Maybe it is louder than I think. I'm wondering where the power for the subwoofer is coming from?

Duffy

[subba]

more than likely you're gonna have to buy a amplifier to power the subs, a deck wont put out good enough power to run them, most decks have a sub out RCA jack to hook up amps.

[Duff]

The one I'm looking at has a sub out preamp and jacks. So If I want to hook up a sub I'll have to go out from those jacks/jack and into the sub but then will have to wire in an amp for the sub. Do any of the subs come with built in amps? Of course, I'd still have to wire in the power supply.

Also, is the regular 22 watts for each of the door speakers going to be enough for it to sound good turned up loud? I noticed with the stock cassette head unit that it starts to distort when you get up close to full volume.

Almost all of the head units I've looked at are twenty two watts per channel with fifty watt peak power handling. I thought I could get a lot more powerful one but the entire product lines are in this low range. They boast two hundred watts but are really only eighty eight watts RMS. Is this enough
for a good clean sound compared to the factory stock cassette receiver?

Duffy

[subba]

My deck has a HPF Setting which filters out the low range signals and directs them to my Sub out so all the voice go to the speaker with little cone movement. if you found a deck with a pre amped sub out it more than likely has that same feature.

If you just want a good balanced ambient sounding system and youre planning to play it high but not blasted you shouldnt need a amp, but if youre planning on winding down your windows and bast it, your going to need,

Midrange Amp and Low Pass Amp(Sub) & Crossover + Eq... (Improves sound quality at high levels)

PPl feel free to add on we might be missing something important.

This is my deck. (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069882_338834008,00.html)

[Duff]

I had circuit city install a Pioneer deh-5900IB and a pair of Pioneer A series three way six and a half inch round speakers at half price. This compliments the new Kenwood three ways I put in the front doors myself and the whole system sounds awesome. I might get a small sub.

The Pioneer cd deck is super complicated and has one joy stick type toggle dial that controls everything and a very nice remote.

The sound is crystal clear with no bass breakup unless you push it at an outrageous eq setting.

It is really nice.

Duff