Crank Pulley size.

[Chicago96GT]

Does any one know the size of the crank pulley bolt so i can get the right piece. Also on an automatic what is the best way to get the pulley off? I heard u have to stick a screw driver or something into the service hole to stop the plate from moving. If anyone else knows thanks. -Nick

[Jedi Taxi]

have one person get in car, put it in park and hold brakes. the other person turns counter-clockwise with a 7/8" or 3/4" socket (correct me if im wrong) note: it won't be easy, the Facker is really on there tight.

[Chicago96GT]

R U Sure because i think i remember someone saying that they couldnt keep it in park or drive, the engine would still turn over. Im not sure if that is correct though im pretty sure thats what the post said. I will go look for it now.

[Plays_with_Toys]

On the automatics there's an access hole near the back of the engine where you can jam a screwdriver into the flywheel to keep it from rotating. 5spd's you're able to put it in 5th gear with the ebrake on and it'll pop out. The size is like a 22 or 24mm. You'll need a breaker bar and an extension. The first time I did mine I just used the starter blip trick. because mine just would not budge.

[Reason]

Subaru had done mine when they did my head gaskets. When I took off my crank pulley bolt I took it off with a socket and almost cracked my hand since the bolt was so damn loose.

[sharky nrk]

I think its a 22mm - put the car in fifth - and whack the breaker bar with a dead blow

[sharky nrk]

oops - and auto I missed that. I think Park should hold it. Honestly I have never done an auto - the dead blow method still works great

[Hocrest]

Yes it is a 22mm.

No, putting it in park or any gear will not hold it, the torque converter is not a direct connection.

The easiest way is to get a breaker bar and a long extension pipe. Situate it so that the pipe is resting on the ground on the drivers side. Disconnect something so that the car won't start (ignitor, coil pack, etc) then hit the key just long enough so that the engine cranks, your bolt will be loose.

If your fans are off, you may want to set a piece of plywood, heavy cardboard in there to protect the rad if the socket slips off.

[deadlydave]

A subaru tech told me the same thing as Hocrest. Works like a charm.

[Chicago96GT]

well i could do this but all my fuel lines are out and i dont know where the connector to the pump is do disconnect it. Is it somewhere in the back under the carpet or where is it can someone help me so when i turn my key gas isnt shooting everywhere.

[Hocrest]

Yeah, there is a plug to the pump under the trunk carpet, right behind the back seat.

[Chicago96GT]

if im looking at the pulley from the front this thing will be turning to the right correct?

[Plays_with_Toys]

lefty loosey righty tighty.

The bolt needs to turn counter-clockwise.

[Chicago96GT]

LOL come on now im not talking about the bolt :grin: When the engine cranks will my pulley be turning to the right?

[AJM]

The engine start method just sounds damgerous.

It's 22 MM like other have said. You'll deffinatly need a long breaker bar.


There is a DIY for this.

[jey]

I believe the service manual recommends wrapping a chain wrench around the crank pulley to hold it in position.

[SammyDaFish]

get a breaker bar long enough to reach the frame rail, put it on the bolt, rest the breaker bar on the left frame rail (battery side) unplug the coil, tap the key. If you don't like the clunk sound put a rag between the breaker bar and the frame rail.

[Plays_with_Toys]

I used the ground instead of the frame rail. I unplugged my coil and gave it the tiniest of taps on the starter.

[Chicago96GT]

I just took a breaker bar, put a poll on it, and turned it. :grin: Had something wedged in the service hole.

[Rockgod]

I did the screwdriver method. The cover to the access hole is just under the throttle body facing you. get a screwdriver preferably flat and 12 inches or longer and place it in a small hole in the spinning plate (forgot the name) you will see. Make sure the battery is disconnected and you have 22mm short socket and a breaker bar with an extension. Pull the bar counter clock wise and that should break it loose. Don't forget to put some Loctite on the threads of the bolt when you pull it back. Don't have the grade number, but its the blue one that I used. Semi-permanent I believe. 85 to 90 foot pound with a torque wrench will get it all done. a video of the method done with a 5spd has the same instructions when removing and installing the pulley after the bolt has been broken. Here's the link: http://www.hspn.tv/?videoid=65&catid=1