Hard Downshift (Automatic)

[Hatter Madigan]

I have a 2003 Legacy with an Auto transmission. Basically whenever I accelerate quickly and my transmission downshifts it seems to shift down hard. It just doesn't feel smooth like it does when shifting at regular speeds. Also my car has a vibration while idleing. I've never owned an automatic before.

Is this something I should expect? If not, does anyone have any suggestions to alleviate these problems? Thanks.

[Rockgod]

My checklist for that would be: have you checked/changed trans fluid and filter?
-------------------- your motor mounts?

New stiffer motor mounts, pitchmount and auto trans mount bushing help to keep the engine stable and aligned better leading to smoother shifts. But I can only speak for the pitchmount and the auto trans mount bushing. Rougeben83 can advise you the motor mounts as he has installed those. My installations have helped my car. www.rallitek.com (http://www.rallitek.com) sells the auto trans mount bushing (recommended level is race) http://rallitek.com/trmoautr.html

Site Owner. REASON sells Group A parts featuring their pitchmount.

Hope this helps a little.

[Hatter Madigan]

Thank you very much for this useful information. I just got done replacing the spark plugs and wires which gave me a surprising amount of power and helped with the vibration. The vibration, though less noticable, is still present, but I'm glad you have given me other options to explore.

Thanks again.

[Rockgod]

Your welcome. I forgot to mention that factor as well but I'm glad that it has work out for you.

[rougeben83]

The plugs and wires were probably old and caused the engine to run pretty rough, especially at idle...one problem down.

The engine mounts...it transfers more vibration and noise into the cabin since the engine movement is more in direct contact with the frame and subsequently the body itself. I get a slight resonance (enough you can see the image on the rearview mirror vibrate for a second) at a certain RPM, so I'm not sure how you'll like it as you're replacing one problem (the kickdown) with another.

You can try the pitchstop mount, see if that will help the kickdown. It's job is to basically help the engine mounts to keep the engine still :lol:

[_RM_]

Thank you very much for this useful information. I just got done replacing the spark plugs and wires which gave me a surprising amount of power and helped with the vibration. The vibration, though less noticable, is still present, but I'm glad you have given me other options to explore.

Thanks again.
Which spark plugs did you use? My BH is due for new spark plugs in about 10k miles (which will probably take a year and a half at the rate we're going). TIA for any info.

[Rockgod]

'sup ben. Merry Belated Christmas. The Pitchmount does work. Trust me. :cool:

_RM_, not sure what plugs hatter used but I would recommend NGK if you've never used them before. Oh and another thing DON'T USE BOSCH!!! Subies don't like bosch.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finde ... neid=37486 (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp?engineid=37486)

here's an example of what to get for your suby. Iridiums and V-powers are great. You can order them or check out your local shop.

http://clubplug.net/index.html

Happy Hunting!

[Hatter Madigan]

[quote="Hatter Madigan":196cpgip]Thank you very much for this useful information. I just got done replacing the spark plugs and wires which gave me a surprising amount of power and helped with the vibration. The vibration, though less noticable, is still present, but I'm glad you have given me other options to explore.

Thanks again.
Which spark plugs did you use? My BH is due for new spark plugs in about 10k miles (which will probably take a year and a half at the rate we're going). TIA for any info.[/quote:196cpgip]


I used NGK spark plugs. I can't remember the brand of wires I used? If I remember to look I will post it.

[Huffer]

Hatter: Change your fluid out and add a bottle of LubeGard ATF Protectant (red bottle). It will help flush out any varnish-type deposits and also allow the tranny to shift smoother. Do this at least once every 30k miles.

A new tranny mount will help depending on the condition of your existing one.
However firmer mounts will simply just transfer vibration along the driveline...so be aware of that.

[Hatter Madigan]

Hatter: Change your fluid out and add a bottle of LubeGard ATF Protectant (red bottle). It will help flush out any varnish-type deposits and also allow the tranny to shift smoother. Do this at least once every 30k miles.

A new tranny mount will help depending on the condition of your existing one.
However firmer mounts will simply just transfer vibration along the driveline...so be aware of that.

Sounds good. Thanks for the advice. I'm taking my car in to have all the fluids checked/replaced tomorrow. I'll make sure to pick up some LubeGard as well.

[sansMYSTi]

I would avoid the RalliTek "race" tranny mounts - I have the comfort version and they transfer plenty of sound and vibration into the cabin (alot more than stock) - especially in the winter when the mount becomes as stiff as granite. I could only imagine that the race version is even worse. Still - a very good mod for firming up shifts and giving the car more of a growl for passengers :wink:

I also use Uridiums and them seem to work well.

[Hatter Madigan]

I would avoid the RalliTek "race" tranny mounts - I have the comfort version and they transfer plenty of sound and vibration into the cabin (alot more than stock) - especially in the winter when the mount becomes as stiff as granite. I could only imagine that the race version is even worse. Still - a very good mod for firming up shifts and giving the car more of a growl for passengers :wink:

I also use Uridiums and them seem to work well.

Ahh, point well taken. Yeah I live in Utah so it's pretty cold right now. Maybe I will have less issues when it warms up..... in 6 months :-?

[_RM_]

_RM_, not sure what plugs hatter used but I would recommend NGK if you've never used them before. Oh and another thing DON'T USE BOSCH!!! Subies don't like bosch.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finde ... neid=37486 (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp?engineid=37486)

here's an example of what to get for your suby. Iridiums and V-powers are great. You can order them or check out your local shop.

http://clubplug.net/index.html

Happy Hunting!
Thanks for the info, man. Wow, another wintergreen Legacy L from 2001. Who would've thought?

<- has the same car in wagon form but with no mods (other than the scratches i've made on the front and rear bumpers :-( )

[rougeben83]

'sup ben. Merry Belated Christmas. The Pitchmount does work. Trust me. :cool:

_RM_, not sure what plugs hatter used but I would recommend NGK if you've never used them before. Oh and another thing DON'T USE BOSCH!!! Subies don't like bosch.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finde ... neid=37486 (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp?engineid=37486)

here's an example of what to get for your suby. Iridiums and V-powers are great. You can order them or check out your local shop.

http://clubplug.net/index.html

Happy Hunting!

Hey mike, Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year to you too :lol:

I have Iridiums in my car, the only thing they have over the V-power/coppers is they can go up to 30k before needing to be changed I think. Otherwise there really isn't any difference.