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View Full Version : Cross Drilled Myths Explained



SilentRacer
02-12-2008, 09:40 AM
"As posted on Nasioc"

Some more from some of the major brake manufacturers:

Stoptech:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/glossary.shtml
Quote:
Drilled or cross-drilled rotors : Discs that have been drilled through with a
non-intersecting pattern of radial holes. The objects are to provide a number of paths to get rid of the boundary layer of out gassed volatiles and incandescent particles of friction material and to increase "bite" through the provision of many leading edges. The advent of carbon metallic friction materials with their increased temperatures and thermal shock characteristics ended the day of the drilled disc in professional racing. They are still seen (mainly as cosmetic items) on motorbikes and some road going sports cars. Typically in original equipment road car applications these holes are cast then finished machined to provide the best possible conditions by which to resist cracking in use. But they will crack eventually under the circumstances described in another section (see Cracking). Properly designed, drilled discs tend to operate cooler than non-drilled ventilated discs of the same design due the higher flow rates through the vents from the supplemental inlets and increased surface area in the hole. That's right, inlets. The flow is into the hole and out through the vent to the OD of the disc. If discs are to be drilled, the external edges of the holes must be chamfered (or, better yet, radiused) and should also be peened.

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/1139207-post23.html
Quote:
We have countless street cars and full race cars running our products on the track. StopTech never recommends drilled rotors to customers who plan to track their car. All of our testing and data collection has shown that drilled rotors do not perform as well as slotted or plain rotors at the track. The drilled rotors crack more easily, they develop terrible concentric grooves, and just don't last as long.

We've gone through TUV approval on a number of our applications in Germany. This testing involves putting some severe strain and endurance testing on rotors. The results are always the same...the drilled rotors don't take the same level of punishment. We just don't view the benefit of a bit more pad bite and water evacuation as worth the tradeoffs for most of our customers.

Baer:
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
Quote:
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Wilwood:
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor...pages/faqs.asp
Quote:
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-...-ULD/index.asp
Quote:
Caution on drilled rotors: There is a common mis-perception that rotors are drilled to improve cooling. The reduced mass of a drilled rotor will dissipate its retained heat quicker, but it also builds up heat at a much faster rate. The decision to use drilled rotors should be solely based on the merits of the lower rotating and unsprung weight, and not for improved cooling. It is not wise to use drilled rotors in sustained high heat on hard braking tracks unless the team budget affords a high frequency of rotor and brake pad replacement.
AP Racing:

http://www.apracing.com/car/fstudentsae/index.htm
Quote:
Drilled discs.

1. Lighter weight than a grooved equivalent

2. Good brake bite due to:

A forcing pad material into the holes

B increased braking surface (many leading edges in theory)

3. allowing gases formed during the braking cycle to escape from the disc braking face.

Disadvantages.

Discs can be prone to cracking unless care taken when bedding in

The use of hard race pads(high friction level) can cause cracking giving the disc a limited life.

You will find today that most forms of car motor sport will use grooved discs.

deadlydave
02-12-2008, 01:19 PM
wow, very informative. You sure did some research. :smile:

SilentRacer
02-12-2008, 02:32 PM
wow, very informative. You sure did some research. :smile:

Actually I'm not taking credit for that, I saw it in a post on nasioc.

Sarra
02-12-2008, 03:42 PM
This is why I'm going w/ slotted rotors in the future.

1-3-2-4
02-12-2008, 09:51 PM
This is why I'm going w/ slotted rotors in the future.

same here.

chipLRX-SLI
05-31-2008, 05:54 PM
i think that i will just go with a set of brembo blanks.

1-3-2-4
05-31-2008, 05:58 PM
i think that i will just go with a set of brembo blanks.

I had a set on my Forester had no issues.

chipLRX-SLI
05-31-2008, 06:27 PM
you had a set of brembo blanks or cross drilled ?

1-3-2-4
05-31-2008, 06:47 PM
you had a set of brembo blanks or cross drilled ?

Blanks

Huffer
05-31-2008, 10:19 PM
I've got Brembo blanks on my car... they are decent.

I do know some SCCA racers who run cheap rotors with good pads and just chuck the rotors after each race/session.

But for the majority of us, we need something a little more durable, life-wise.

sybir
06-01-2008, 12:57 AM
I've had good luck with slotted rotors, brembo and otherwise. I like the pad-clearing you get, and it doesn't affect pad life much on a street car. It makes a difference (IMO) when running in heavy rain or when you're running througha bunch of spray, mud, or snow, because it still gets that initial hard bite even if the rotors are coated with grime. I'll never run crossdrilled rotors, they introduce too many opportunities for stress cracks, etc, especially on street cars that get ridden hard, put away wet, and aren't gone over and maintained like racecars.

My cars are a mishmash, though: wagon is stoptech slotted fronts, powerslot slotted rears. STi is slotted Brembos front, brembo blank rear (rear brakes covered under warranty immediately prior to me buying the car.


There's credence in running cheap rotors and tossing them under track conditions; lots of vette guys do it becuase a pair of rotors are $50, and a single trackday will chew a set of $50 rotors the same as a 2-piece $800 setup. Don't know that I'd do it on a street car where, again, there's less regular maintenance.

Reason
06-01-2008, 02:06 AM
I never ran crossdrilled and never will. I always used Powerslot slotted rotors and loved them. I may try Brembo blanks to see how I like them. Good read though.

AJM
06-01-2008, 02:31 AM
I've had cross drilled for over a year now, drove the car hard, and through a Ny winter with no issues.