View Full Version : clutch is shot??
96legacyLS
03-17-2008, 04:01 PM
okay, I just replaced my clutch about 5k ago
I was coming off the on ramp to the highway in 3rd gear, went to shift into fourth and I just ground gears.... I finally got it into 3rd by slamming it in and I made it to a place to get towed.
Messed around with it and got it so I can shift gears, but the I can't give any gas before the clutch starts to slip....Can someone give me some opinons on what I should do???
jmgtp
03-17-2008, 05:43 PM
If it first ground gears and then later slips the release mechanism may be at fault.
Whether it be the release bearing, fork or cable (I think older Subs were cable linkage rather than hydraulic but correct me if I'm wrong).
How does the clutch pedal feel? Easy to push? Harder? Is the throw the same? Any strange noises when you engage/disengage?
96legacyLS
03-17-2008, 07:34 PM
If it first ground gears and then later slips the release mechanism may be at fault.
Whether it be the release bearing, fork or cable (I think older Subs were cable linkage rather than hydraulic but correct me if I'm wrong).
How does the clutch pedal feel? Easy to push? Harder? Is the throw the same? Any strange noises when you engage/disengage?
it is cable linkage, not hydraulic. The clutch is catching almost as the pedal was all the way out, then it just slips...it was chattering really hard but it went away. I did also adjust all the cables.
jmgtp
03-18-2008, 07:30 PM
I'd think the clutch is fine and that the problem is linkage or release mechanism. You may have to pull it apart to fine out.
Plays_with_Toys
03-18-2008, 10:27 PM
Take it to whoever did the clutch and ask for it to be adjusted. The clutch has to be adjusted after 500 miles (notice one less zero than you used) when a new clutch is installed.
After that, every 5-10k miles the clutch cable should be checked again and adjusted as needed. If it were hydraulic, the system would be self adjusting.
Do you have a hill holder mechanism? If you look at where the cable attaches, the long threaded rod with the double nut that faces you is cable adjustment, on the backside (facing the firewall) is a similar setup for the hill holder adjustment.
96legacyLS
03-19-2008, 10:05 AM
Take it to whoever did the clutch and ask for it to be adjusted. The clutch has to be adjusted after 500 miles (notice one less zero than you used) when a new clutch is installed.
After that, every 5-10k miles the clutch cable should be checked again and adjusted as needed. If it were hydraulic, the system would be self adjusting.
Do you have a hill holder mechanism? If you look at where the cable attaches, the long threaded rod with the double nut that faces you is cable adjustment, on the backside (facing the firewall) is a similar setup for the hill holder adjustment.
Yeah I do have a hill holder, I adjusted the cables, i drove a little bit but its real bad....
I adjusted the cables about 2 Months ago, the double nut rattled loose a bit...
When I went to mess with it again, it was at the same setting as when I adjusted it before
Airgne
03-19-2008, 10:10 AM
well if you got it working that is good. the only subie that i know that came with a hill stopper are the brats. i just sold my 86 brat for $900.it was $300 to replace the hill stopper. i thought the clutch was going bad in the brat, but after 214k i thought it was about time. i told the mechanic to look and change it if it needed. they told me it was still good, just that the rear main had a little leak. that is why it would slip on hills full throttle.
just spent $1000 on a clutch for my legacy esterday. im tierd of not being able t go full throttle without sliping, but i have never had good luck with stock clutchs. i got a spec aluminum flywheel and a stage 3 4 puck clutch and aluminum pressure plate. hopefully when i come back from japan in apr it will be good to go.
96legacyLS
03-19-2008, 11:07 AM
well if you got it working that is good. the only subie that i know that came with a hill stopper are the brats. i just sold my 86 brat for $900.it was $300 to replace the hill stopper. i thought the clutch was going bad in the brat, but after 214k i thought it was about time. i told the mechanic to look and change it if it needed. they told me it was still good, just that the rear main had a little leak. that is why it would slip on hills full throttle.
just spent $1000 on a clutch for my legacy esterday. im tierd of not being able t go full throttle without sliping, but i have never had good luck with stock clutchs. i got a spec aluminum flywheel and a stage 3 4 puck clutch and aluminum pressure plate. hopefully when i come back from japan in apr it will be good to go.
see, I replaced all my seals except for my crank seal...that is once I pull the engine again. I know my clutch isnt slipping because of oil.
I Had Purchased a stage 1 exedy clutch off ebay for 150(the whole kit), so I dont know what they have for some kind of warranty if I can even find out...this sucks but o well it will happen again eventually im sure
Airgne
03-21-2008, 02:40 PM
i dont trust a clutch off ebay after i bought one and it was for the wrong motor. when it comes to driveline parts i have learned not to be cheap by any means. i wish you the best of luck.
Airgne
04-07-2008, 10:21 PM
since im in japan right now my cousin picked up my car after clutch job. he said it is the hardsest clutch he has ever driven, he said either on or off no in the mid. cant wait to try it and put the ss line in. along with shifter bushing and sti eng&tranny mounts. should be nice.
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