ok....whats wrong and how could i fix it?

[GTDrifter]

sometimes when i pull off from a dead stop it will start to excelerate but right away die out and not move....i have to hit the pedal a couple times to get it going

so whats going on?

and how could i fix it? im thinking maybe adjusting the throttle?

[jey]

If you think there is something wrong with the throttle reading you can get an OBD II scan tool plugged in and look at the throttle reading and see if it is reporting your input like it should.

[chuckthefuk]

o2 sensors. Sounds like your car is in safe-t-mode Theres a possibility it could be your knock sensor but i am not 100% sure.

[GTDrifter]

im thinking of tightening the bolt a lil bit so the throttle goes slightly higher it should work

[Sarra]

If your car is an auto, then your torque convert is going to hate you and take a huge dump on you some day.

Having a higher idle doesn't sound like it will help, and tightening the cable sure isn't going to do anything but raise your idle.

[GTDrifter]

it idles really really low i know that

[4n70n1n0]

Where does it idle? 700? 800? 400?

[Okin DaVanh]

Where does it idle? 700? 800? 400?


It would help to know....


Also, did you check you intake, intake tubing, MAF, and converter for clogs?

[Sarra]

I found out that the tach is a horrible way to figure out what your idle is. You need to take a scan tool to it to figure out what your idle is. My tach in the 1998 LGT would say 400-500 rpm, but the scan tool said 800 rpm.

[GTDrifter]

yeah i dont have a scanner let alone the cash to get one at the moment if i barely push the pedal it wont do it and it doesnt happen all the time maybe its just that when you slam the pedal it floods the engine a lill idk its just a guess

[J.McDonald Knives]

I still think its the fuel pump and/or fuel filter.

[jey]

I found out that the tach is a horrible way to figure out what your idle is. You need to take a scan tool to it to figure out what your idle is. My tach in the 1998 LGT would say 400-500 rpm, but the scan tool said 800 rpm.

I've never seen the tach that far off. You do realize that the first "line" above 0 on your tachometer is 500 rpm right? Each minor line on the tach is 100 rpm, each major line is 500 rpm.

[Sarra]

I found out that the tach is a horrible way to figure out what your idle is. You need to take a scan tool to it to figure out what your idle is. My tach in the 1998 LGT would say 400-500 rpm, but the scan tool said 800 rpm.

I've never seen the tach that far off. You do realize that the first "line" above 0 on your tachometer is 500 rpm right? Each minor line on the tach is 100 rpm, each major line is 500 rpm.

Yes, I did realize that. The tach was perfectly accurate over 1,000 rpm according to the scan tools. Just the idle level was way off.

[GTDrifter]

well my cars getting inspected as we speak so idk

they are replacing my knock sensor and steering rack boots so all that wont annoy me

[Sarra]

Ooooh, steering rack boots. D:< I hate them. They drove me crazy on my BK. Glad I don't have to deal with that now.

[GTDrifter]

well my knock sensor was perfect (effing dealership told me otherwise almost got charged $45 just to check it but i heard it from the dealership i got it from so this other dealership i took it to cancelled the cost)


they dont really do subarus so i have to take it to yet another dealership but this one is nothing but subarus even though its about 45 mins from my house just to get my steering rack boots fixed and thatll be $300

makes me wanna sell this one for what its worth and buy one from the professional dealership that wont have 90 things wrong with it...one that actually still has its correct engine thats specified on the trunk




sorry for all that but i had a rough day needed to vent

[Sarra]

well my knock sensor was perfect (effing dealership told me otherwise almost got charged $45 just to check it but i heard it from the dealership i got it from so this other dealership i took it to cancelled the cost)


they dont really do subarus so i have to take it to yet another dealership but this one is nothing but subarus even though its about 45 mins from my house just to get my steering rack boots fixed and thatll be $300

makes me wanna sell this one for what its worth and buy one from the professional dealership that wont have 90 things wrong with it...one that actually still has its correct engine thats specified on the trunk




sorry for all that but i had a rough day needed to vent

Dude, go to a freaking alignment place. I got quoted $230 for both boots being replaced and an alignment!

[GTDrifter]

i just got my allignment done

[Sarra]

When they replace the boots, you have to get a new alignment since they remove the tierods to replace the boots.

[GTDrifter]

the garage said that they would have to take the entire axle off

i found a black 98 gt close to home for sale....its $2600 but its a rebuild titled car looks nice

i talked to the owner and he said that all thats wrong with it is the sunroof wont open and that its a rebuild title

so i go for it?

[mrpyb]

rebuilt titles always sound good but can give you more trouble later on than the money saved is worth.

stick with your car.

[GTDrifter]

im just tired of pying my loan plus paying to fix the stuff the dealership didnt

my parents wone let me go near the new car but i really want it

im trying to find out why it was totalled in the first place...if its too much then i wont go near it

[J.McDonald Knives]

Listen to your parents. They got more knowledge in this than you do.

[GTDrifter]

i asked the guy what happened and he said that it was only the front right corner of the car and it still ran and he drove it doesnt sound like it shouldve got totalled to me

[Huffer]

I checked out a salvage title/rebuilt GT a month ago. The pics looked great, but the car ran worse mine, and mine has 216k. The rebuilt one was only supposed to have 110k.

The timing belt covers were falling off, the headlights were just pushed into the holes, the fender liners were ziptied on, the auto transmission bucked like a donkey going into 1st and 2nd... it was hit front rightside too.

Insurance companies WILL total a car over 10 years old because it's not worth it to them to have them repaired... if they force you into a newer car then they get to jack your premiums legitimately.

[blackgtbeauty]

rebuilt titles always sound good but CAN give you more trouble later on than the money saved is worth.

stick with your car.

Salvage, year and a half, no problems and no car payment.

[GTDrifter]

I checked out a salvage title/rebuilt GT a month ago. The pics looked great, but the car ran worse mine, and mine has 216k. The rebuilt one was only supposed to have 110k.

The timing belt covers were falling off, the headlights were just pushed into the holes, the fender liners were ziptied on, the auto transmission bucked like a donkey going into 1st and 2nd... it was hit front rightside too.

Insurance companies WILL total a car over 10 years old because it's not worth it to them to have them repaired... if they force you into a newer car then they get to jack your premiums legitimately.


i was guna get a couple of people i know that are atuo mechanics to go look at it with me

idk im sick of car payment

[Okin DaVanh]

rebuilt titles always sound good but CAN give you more trouble later on than the money saved is worth.

stick with your car.

Salvage, year and a half, no problems and no car payment.


Salvage title 5 years, 63k miles later and no problems... and yes, NO CAR PAYMENT also. I rebuilt mine myself with help from no one. Other than maintenance, I haven't had anything happen to mine. Bought it with 59k.

I'm not vouching for the salvage industry, just dispersing some of the myths of salvage cars. If your parents ok it, then get the drivetrain and repair work checked out by a reputable shop before you buy it for your piece of mind. When I was selling mine, a guy came with a Subie tech who ok'd it after going through it, but he didn't have the cash.