Turbo

[avryco]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-98-L ... 0102300232 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-98-Legacy-B4-EJ20-OEM-Right-IHI-Turbocharger-Turbo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ022QQitemZ350102300232)

Ok so i'm feeling really really like an FNG to automotive stuff in general but would this^^^ turbo fit my legacy??

[99SUS SFD]

No. That's for the EJ20 motor, a factory 2.0L turbo. You have the EJ25, a naturally aspirated 2.5L.

There are bolt on kits for our motors, but the power they can produce is pretty limited due to the blocks's ability to handle the psi.

[avryco]

sad

[jg09]

Well, just about any turbo(s) can be used on an EJ25, but it takes a lot of fabrication and the block needs to be sleeved and the engine internals upgraded. I suppose you could run twin T50s if you really felt the need.

[Perdue]

That's about half the turbo that a 2.5L would probably need.

Misinformation to be corrected:

There are plenty of aftermarket turbo kits, mostly homebrew, that are running on EJ series NA motors that haven't been sleeved (unless this is a new practice since I got outta the subie game, I've never heard of it being done) and without new internals, and most of the kits I know of are homebrew kits. In my humble opinion, and that of many others who have experience here, most people have the biggest problems with their tune. Ordering an aftermarket kit that comes with pretuned engine management doesn't cut it. Your motor will not be the exact same as someone else's...period.

My plans for my legacy were a TD04 (stock WRX turbo) with a welded wastegate, 35mm external wastegate, stock exhaust manifold, custom uppipe, custom downpipe and exhaust, stock STi Intercooler, and custom intercooler and intake piping, and custom oil hoses. I was also going to replace the oil pump with that of a turbo motor, as they will flow more oil to try and protect the motor and supply the turbo. I was going to use Greddy Emanage and a manual boost controller to run 5-6psi on a stock EJ22. I had plans of doing a rough tune (run it rich) and then taking it directly to be dyno-tuned by a PROFESSIONAL. PROFESSIONAL is in caps for a REASON. If you don't know what you're doing, you're going to blow any motor up...I don't care how well built it is.

[jg09]

That's about half the turbo that a 2.5L would probably need.

Misinformation to be corrected:

There are plenty of aftermarket turbo kits, mostly homebrew, that are running on EJ series NA motors that haven't been sleeved (unless this is a new practice since I got outta the subie game, I've never heard of it being done) and without new internals, and most of the kits I know of are homebrew kits.

The reason I mentioned sleeving is because the ej25 has an aluminum block and if you really wanted a 900hp super-turbo Subie, then sleeving would be a must. As far as power goes, I'd sleeve once I got up to about 500ish. If you don't need that much power, don't sleeve. It is EXPENSIVE to have done. But yes, I consider myself standing corrected.

[impreza_GC8]

I've got a turbo'ed EJ25. Granted, the only EJ25 parts in the whole engine are the block and pistons and even they are from specific motors and used for a reason. I run 8psi every day on an untuned EJ22T ECU. Been this way for at least two years. It has survived a regional Rallycross event and a helluva lot of backwoods gravel roads. I'm getting a wideband soon and tuning with an SAFC.

[liquidracing]

just don't forget the basics when boosting an n/a:
1)more air=more fuel i.e.-fmu
2)more air/fuel=less timing advance i.e.-boost actuated icm
3)n/a=high-er compression results in lower boost potential. don't worry about higher boost threshold unless you want over 250hp.
you can boost an n/a, relatively safely, as long as it's tuned PROFESSIONALLY, up to 10psi....although i'd like to see no more than 7psi on a n/a block! :wink:

over 10? grenade anyone?

[Sarra]

That tiny turbo would easily run out of breath on a larger displacement engine. You would see diminishing boost at anything over 3,000 rpm.

[Perdue]

That's about half the turbo that a 2.5L would probably need.

Misinformation to be corrected:

There are plenty of aftermarket turbo kits, mostly homebrew, that are running on EJ series NA motors that haven't been sleeved (unless this is a new practice since I got outta the subie game, I've never heard of it being done) and without new internals, and most of the kits I know of are homebrew kits.

The reason I mentioned sleeving is because the ej25 has an aluminum block and if you really wanted a 900hp super-turbo Subie, then sleeving would be a must. As far as power goes, I'd sleeve once I got up to about 500ish. If you don't need that much power, don't sleeve. It is EXPENSIVE to have done. But yes, I consider myself standing corrected.

Yeah, but I bet he'd be lucky to see over 200whp off of a turbo that's only half of a twin turbo setup for a smaller motor. It's all in the tune...get detonation or very lean conditions in any motor and it's going to fail.

[rougeben83]

just don't forget the basics when boosting an n/a:
1)more air=more fuel i.e.-fmu
2)more air/fuel=less timing advance i.e.-boost actuated icm
3)n/a=high-er compression results in lower boost potential. don't worry about higher boost threshold unless you want over 250hp.
you can boost an n/a, relatively safely, as long as it's tuned PROFESSIONALLY, up to 10psi....although i'd like to see no more than 7psi on a n/a block! :wink:

over 10? grenade anyone?

You should search JoeT's car on NASIOC. He was one of the first people to boost a BE and was running 10-12psi on his N/A bottom end and would boost to 14psi during autox events (which were regular for him).

Again, it boils down to the tune, he happens to run Autotronic and tuning done by Yoshio (probably one of the oldest and best tuners in the northeast, let alone Canada).

Someone over on rs25.com has taken a stock block to about 400+whp, just to prove that very same point.

People, it always boils down to the tune that you get on your engine.

[Huffer]

And it boils down to how long and how often that engine is running.

NASCAR engines produce what, 1200hp? But they're stripped and rebuilt/trashed after every race.

So just because someone pushed a stock block to 400hp doesn't mean that it'll stand up over the next 5 years. Which, realistically speaking most of us wish to own our cars for. Me, I want to be able to hand my car down to my kids. So reliability is a huge factor for me.

[liquidracing]

And it boils down to how long and how often that engine is running.

NASCAR engines produce what, 1200hp? But they're stripped and rebuilt/trashed after every race.

So just because someone pushed a stock block to 400hp doesn't mean that it'll stand up over the next 5 years. Which, realistically speaking most of us wish to own our cars for. Me, I want to be able to hand my car down to my kids. So reliability is a huge factor for me.

this is precisely why i say that boost IS fun, but, on an n/a car, even though someone has done 14psi, one ought to rethink their need for high-er boost threshold. keep it low boost, keep it stupid simple, and keep it TUNED!

[rougeben83]

And it boils down to how long and how often that engine is running.

NASCAR engines produce what, 1200hp? But they're stripped and rebuilt/trashed after every race.

So just because someone pushed a stock block to 400hp doesn't mean that it'll stand up over the next 5 years. Which, realistically speaking most of us wish to own our cars for. Me, I want to be able to hand my car down to my kids. So reliability is a huge factor for me.

this is precisely why i say that boost IS fun, but, on an n/a car, even though someone has done 14psi, one ought to rethink their need for high-er boost threshold. keep it low boost, keep it stupid simple, and keep it TUNED!

That setup lasted him a couple of years, then he went to an ej257.

I was answering the question of how much power the supposedly "weak" n/a ej25x block can physically handle. Not the personal preference of the end-user. Even an ej20t will have an increased risk of failure when you put more boost through it.

Bottom line is if you don't want your car to break down, keep it stock. That's the best guarantee if youre so worried about stuff breaking down all the time.

And if you're worried, youre not having fun, and if you're not having fun, why bother modifying your car in the first place?

The old addage applies; cheap, fast, reliable - pick two.

And Huffer, a car's not an heirloom :lol:

[liquidracing]

And it boils down to how long and how often that engine is running.

NASCAR engines produce what, 1200hp? But they're stripped and rebuilt/trashed after every race.

So just because someone pushed a stock block to 400hp doesn't mean that it'll stand up over the next 5 years. Which, realistically speaking most of us wish to own our cars for. Me, I want to be able to hand my car down to my kids. So reliability is a huge factor for me.

this is precisely why i say that boost IS fun, but, on an n/a car, even though someone has done 14psi, one ought to rethink their need for high-er boost threshold. keep it low boost, keep it stupid simple, and keep it TUNED!

That setup lasted him a couple of years, then he went to an ej257.

I was answering the question of how much power the supposedly "weak" n/a ej25x block can physically handle. Not the personal preference of the end-user. Even an ej20t will have an increased risk of failure when you put more boost through it.

Bottom line is if you don't want your car to break down, keep it stock. That's the best guarantee if youre so worried about stuff breaking down all the time.

And if you're worried, youre not having fun, and if you're not having fun, why bother modifying your car in the first place?

The old addage applies; cheap, fast, reliable - pick two.

And Huffer, a car's not an heirloom :lol:
:grin: