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liquidracing
10-16-2008, 11:42 AM
happy button. :grin:
i GUARANTEE you have NEVER heard of anyone doing it this way!

now, i want to do only four things, independently, and control-able.

one: i need timing adjustability, independent from everything else; can be piggy-back!
two: i need a rapid rising-rate fpr; can be the type you have to cut the existing regulator cap off.
three: i need a high-er rate fuel pimp. yeah, i said, "PIMP!"
four: i need cpu knowledge!

the project is this:
i am now on prototype #9, and all is well. about to get inverter, maybe today?

my victim is: 1996 legacy LSi 2.5 4eat awd n/a
build date:07/95
afaik, my cpu cannot learn around piggy-backs(gen1 obdII)
pre-build date 07/95 all leggy's came in obdI, so, yeah me! :razz:

i am boosting this vehicle for one reason and one reason only, to take on-ramps at mach speed! :twisted: so i would rather NOT get off topic and start discussing t3 vs. t4hybrid conversions and what they'll do in a '92 ej22t. that's all i ask.

i am doing an wot electronic charging system, named "W.O.T.E.C."copyrighted in 2008(WideOpenThrottleElectronicCharge)
it is currently pending under patent laws as a full systematic "alternative" forced induction kit for virtually any car, 2.5liter and less.

this is comprised of a few goodies, including, but, not limited to:
1)ac/dc inverter(min.2000watt output rms/peak.3500watt, mainly used in r.v.'s)(trunk mounted)
2)50,000 rpm ac 2.1hp motor(custom)
3)new magnesium impeller rated up to 75,000rpm, 500cfm, bench tested to flow 350-356cfm at, get this, 17psi through a 1" sphincter style flow control valve before the first of 5 impellers grenaded! the previous flowed 13psi through the bov only.
4)happy button->details of this are what makes the patent happen, sorry i can't tell you why the system does what it does or how, yet.
5)one optima deep-cycle marine battery(trunk mounted)
6)0 guage dc feed wires
7)metal clad 12/2 ac cable(inverter to switch to motor)
8)custom fab oem air box(#9)
stuff i have already:
e-bay intake
neon ignition upgrade
straight through glasspak
autometer a/f guage
a very heavy foot!

stuff i still need:
cams
fuel pump
2.25" exhaust
hi-flow cat
borla headers
new oem head rebuild with 3 layer metal hg
ignition control(help?)
rapid rate rising fpr
possibly pp6 or safc neo, unsure yet(help?)

that's about the jist of it.

the system, if i'm correct, will yeild roughly 4-5psi of 2200watts of electric capable boost(not yo daddy's electric supercharger huh?)
the system total is now at just under $600

coupled with the other mods i have selected, then, tuned by paragon(if they're still around) or tarmac racing(superupair out of boulder, co), i should see a VERY reliable 250bhp, putting roughly 150-200 at the wheels in "wotec" mode :roll:

this system is going to behave like a 2-3000watt stereo(lots of power)

so, if anyone has any ideas to help me out please, by all means respond.

Huffer
10-16-2008, 11:53 AM
Sounds a bit like a NOS system.

So basically you're going to spin up a fan/turbine and cram air into the system to make the air charge denser?

rougeben83
10-16-2008, 11:54 AM
ditch the piggyback, go standalone. It'll save you the headache of trying to work around factory protocols when your car clearly isn't going to be anywhere near stock...

liquidracing
10-16-2008, 12:01 PM
Sounds a bit like a NOS system.

So basically you're going to spin up a fan/turbine and cram air into the system to make the air charge denser?

basically it is exactly a "nos" setup using wot as an actuator, where the compressor/electric motor becomes the "bottle and nozzle" in essence. the difference is the voltage used to establish boost. spool up time is 1/5 of a second! :shock:

liquidracing
10-16-2008, 12:03 PM
ditch the piggyback, go standalone. It'll save you the headache of trying to work around factory protocols when your car clearly isn't going to be anywhere near stock...

pp6? i understand my cpu CANNOT learn around it because it is older than a build date of 07/98, am i correct?

rougeben83
10-16-2008, 02:09 PM
ditch the piggyback, go standalone. It'll save you the headache of trying to work around factory protocols when your car clearly isn't going to be anywhere near stock...

pp6? i understand my cpu CANNOT learn around it because it is older than a build date of 07/98, am i correct?

pp6 is a piggyback...just not a well supported one here in the US. (Rallitek is the only one that bothers to use this system IIRC).

Megasquirt all the way to Hydra Nemesis, Autotronic, Motec, etc.

With the factory ECU, you're still working within the confines of the software parameters Subaru put in place, one example is the "learning" bit that happens during closed loop operation. Standalone you basically start from scratch, but you tailor the fuel map and timing completely to your specifications.

Perdue
10-16-2008, 02:46 PM
:smt037 so basically, an electric turbo/supercharger?? Good luck with that.

liquidracing
10-16-2008, 04:31 PM
:smt037 so basically, an electric turbo/supercharger?? Good luck with that.
not really. btw, don't need luck, i already did it. 7 years research. done. so :lol: all you want, but, nobody on the PLANET has this, or can have this! 'cause i said so! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Perdue
10-16-2008, 05:29 PM
I'm sorry to laugh, but that's basically what it sounds like you're trying to do. Maybe you'll get the last laugh, but I'll believe it when I see it.

anothernord
10-16-2008, 05:43 PM
at $600, you could almost put together a custom turbo kit, but good luck with the project anyway. Sounds interesting.

jg09
10-16-2008, 06:17 PM
Hey, right on for being different.

liquidracing
10-16-2008, 06:19 PM
I'm sorry to laugh, but that's basically what it sounds like you're trying to do. Maybe you'll get the last laugh, but I'll believe it when I see it.
nope, not a problem...i have relentlessly laughed at others for the same reason. for me, the uniqueness of running a voltage and ampherage that belongs in a house, alone, is worth the stress. during the day, i sell electric supplies to contractors. they are all on the edge of their seat as well. i just wish R&D was a faster process. we'll see what happens "off" the bench and into the reality of street use. mybe it won't work in real time real road conditions, but, theory, and physics say it will, so i keep my fingers crossed.

liquidracing
10-17-2008, 01:12 PM
for shit's sake! :evil: i now have to get another compressor wheel, damnitalltohell!

my "electrical engineer" brother thought it would be a wise move to attempt 220volts to my "custom" 120volt motor....$280 down the drain again!
ummmm....he's on to something there though. :neutral:

if calculations are correct, the higher voltage and slightly lower ampherage will lengthen spool-up time by the smallest fraction of a second, but, the top rpm would be almost twice that of what we've got now.

i wonder how bad the run-off will be without the higher torque to keep the impeller moving at the higher rpm.

lastly, i believe the total cfm flow will increase, but, i think that is at the demise of total pressure created.
arrrgggghhhh!!!! :evil:

well, it takes about two to three months for my manufacturer to get me a replacement. cost of a 120v20a is about $300 and a 220v13a is about $400.

if i didn't want this so bad, i'd have quit last year when compressor wheel number 6 missed my head by a foot or so(felt like inches 'cause those are loud and whiz funny like, and fly like rocket powered frisbies!)