PDA

View Full Version : any advice? built 2.5 about to be installed



xXGTBspecXx
11-04-2008, 11:10 PM
in the next week il be installing this 2.5 in my 98 legacy for the last time. if it does not work. i will be parting out the car. this is the 8th time the motor has gone in.

decke48
11-04-2008, 11:32 PM
ok put you build specs up. whats new. what was done. it will help with tips

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 01:01 AM
crankshaft balanced to 10krpm, eagle rods,JE pistons, cosworth bearings(main,rod) ,JETBLAST machine shop port & polish heads, port match & polish intake manifold, MLS headgaskets ,camshafts grind specs cannot be disclosed.

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 01:06 AM
i dont know why the past 7 times the motor was in it didnt run. but i hope it works this time. i dont want to move on to a 6th car yet.

aznguy0087
11-05-2008, 02:03 AM
shit, i wanna see this thing in person, looks awsome!

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 02:05 AM
thanks,shoot me a pm and u can be here when we put it in for the 8th time. no promise it will run. but hey the motor install nights usually leads to drinking and music. always a plus

Huffer
11-05-2008, 07:25 AM
How exactly are we supposed to help with this engine when you won't tell us anything about it? Balancing components and brand-naming bits doesn't tell anything.

That's like me saying I wear adidas... no shoe size, type of tread, laces or locks etc.

GL with the install.

Mikey97D
11-05-2008, 08:23 AM
Good Luck!

I bet you've got it down installing the motor by now to a quick job. Please remember to fill up the torque converter.

decke48
11-05-2008, 12:12 PM
figuring assembly lube was used on bearing, cams have oil on them. the oil pump was prime w/ assembly grease. use a convensional oil to break in (oil change intervals for break in. 500miles, 1500, 2500, regular intervals) just when its all in ready to fire. unplug the coil turn it over for two 15 second periods to get oil through the engine. plug the coil in fire it up. make sure the oil light goes out. check your timing with a timing light. let idle for 30-40 mins and see how it runs. though dont go over 3,000rpm in the first 500 miles, 4,500 in the 500 to 2000 miles, 5,500 in the 2000 to 4500 miles, then you can have fun and dyno that bad boy

subba
11-05-2008, 12:56 PM
i dont belive in breakin periods.. but seeing you changed internals please tell me u raised the compression :twisted:

Cant give much help with little information presented, if you did everything to specs you should be ok.

Huffer
11-05-2008, 12:59 PM
There's another thing too - even if the engine runs - without proper EM, it's likely to run like crap.

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 01:18 PM
i do expect it to run like crap. but i at least want it to fire up this time. is there any common problems that ppl run into while installing the motor? the past 7 times the motor was in it would only run if you were still cranking it with the starter. everything is done by the book.(service manual) im just nervous. i dont want to part this car out, i want it to run for the first time in 5 months.

decke48
11-05-2008, 01:47 PM
what cp are you running? and is the grind mild, wild, spicy, custom? or ecu friendly

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 02:13 PM
ecu friendly, whats CP mean?

97legacygt
11-05-2008, 03:23 PM
CP means compression ratio.

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 03:37 PM
stock compression specs. ive built the motor to run hard on 10 PSI no more no less. il be swapping a wrx engine in next year if this works. if this doesnt work il part out the car.

99gtlimited
11-05-2008, 03:44 PM
usually compression ratio is abbreviated CR. and it's the full cylinder volume over the compressed cylinder volume. You can also use this to figure out the pressure in the cylinder at the point of combustion by multiplying it by atmospheric pressure (for N/A).

sexystover
11-05-2008, 03:52 PM
ur running stock CR with 10 psi boost? thats a nogo, unless its a semi/full closed deck block, otherwise if its the stock 2.5 say goodbye to the cylinder walls and be ready to run race fuel so you dont get knock

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 05:35 PM
im not running the factory phase 1 block. that would be mayhem. lets just say i have what i need to do what i gotta do. im sorry for the secrecy but there are some things i just cant disclose at this time. my tuner wants to keep things behind closed doors until hes ready to put his name on my car. he gave me a good deal on the work hes done. so id rather not mention some of the things on the list.

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 06:30 PM
im just asking is there any common problems that people run in to while installing that will prevent the motor from running?

chuckthefuk
11-05-2008, 07:01 PM
Just throwing this out here...


"The IACV is the “Idle Air Control Valve,” or more fully, the “Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve.” The IACV directly affects idle conditions, RPM in particular. On cold starts, the IACV sends rpm’s higher than on a warm start. Irregular idle conditions may be the result of a dirty IACV sensor. Limited discussion of the IACV is covered on page 36 of the DOHC Engine service manual"


This is probably not an issue but I'v seen this little part turn working motors into unstartable motors.

-Chuck

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 07:31 PM
the lil thing to the right of the throttle body?!?!?! i did get some metal shavings in that but i cleaned it out. you think that might have damaged it? il go get another tomorrow to be sure. thats the kind of info ive been waiting for thank you 10/10

chuckthefuk
11-05-2008, 08:23 PM
From Nobisco

"Where Is The IACV?

The IACV sits directly above the throttle body, and is affixed to the throttle body with two screws. The picture below shows the IACV. In this picture, I have replaced one screw (left lower corner) with a hex-socket cap screw, while the other screw (right upper corner) has been removed."

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/IACVtop-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/IACVGasketOld-1.jpg

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/IACVGaskets-1.jpg


more info: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242

Anyways good luck with the motor drop.

-Chuck

xXGTBspecXx
11-05-2008, 11:05 PM
my idle air thing is to the right of the throttle body when looking at the back of the engine. when looking at the back its hidden behind the oil breathe tube that split and one goes to thew intake and one goes to the manifold.

keep in mind i have a phase 1 intake manifold. from the 98 GT motor

decke48
11-06-2008, 12:27 AM
the only thing that can keep the car from running is fuel really (or if the timing is wrong)when you drop it in it every thing is connected
as for CP it stand just for compression

sexystover
11-06-2008, 08:38 AM
the way to test if the IACV is not working is to give it a little gas or open the throttle body and turn the car over, that way it bypasses it, once it starts if you let off the gas or close the throttle body and it stalls/dies you know its the IACV, the IACV bypasses the throttle body because at idle the car still needs air but your not opening th throttle body to let any in, so thats where the IACV comes into play, (just learned all this at votech)

xXGTBspecXx
11-06-2008, 01:17 PM
thats what happens when i try to crank it over. cool so il goto the junkyard and get another one.