rougeben83
11-18-2008, 03:02 PM
So over on NASIOC a couple of guys are port and polishing their turbos, I had my spare VF43 so I went ahead and gave it a shot and wanted to pass on the things I learned over here.
intake/cold side: Turbine inlet ported
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070007-1.jpg
intake exit ported
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070008-1.jpg
Hot side inlet ported and polished; this was my first time working with cast iron, I had a little difficulty with the carbide bit carving a perfect circle around the entry :-( The point here is NOT to get as big of an opening as you can get, matching the opening with the outlet of you UP is best, with a taper to the original diameter to maintain exhaust velocity (think velocity stack)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070006-1.jpg
Hotside turbine exit and wastegate; only a small port on the turbine exit, taking out the 'step' in the circle and smoothing everything out. The mirror finish supposedly reflects heat better, maintain exhaust temp and in turn velocity, leading to better spool-up and reduced soot buildup in that area. I was not as adventurous as other that ported the wastegate opening to change boost creep though.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070005-1.jpg
Steps to PnP most engine parts involve the following bits (as per Koji on the 2.0lT forum)
"1. Carbide bit (you don't need one of these but trust me you'll wish you had one if you don't get one) to open up the area. Use grinding lube with this or you're going to get covered in shards.
2. Grinding stone to take down the scrapes from the carbide bit. (This isn't always necessary)
3. 40/60 grit drum rolls. Which one depends upon how coarse it is after the stone or if you used the stone at all.
4. 80 grit flapper wheel.
5. 120 grit flapper wheel.
6. Buffer bobs or cross buffs."
Dismantling of the turbo is pretty straightforward, use of a torch and PB blaster is highly suggested for the cast-iron hot side. Use a rubber mallet to tap/blungeon :razz: both housings off, keep in mind to NOT damage the turbine fins when the housings fall off Marking the cold and hot side housings in relation to their position with the center section (CRH) is a MUST if you want to keep the turbo balanced.
intake/cold side: Turbine inlet ported
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070007-1.jpg
intake exit ported
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070008-1.jpg
Hot side inlet ported and polished; this was my first time working with cast iron, I had a little difficulty with the carbide bit carving a perfect circle around the entry :-( The point here is NOT to get as big of an opening as you can get, matching the opening with the outlet of you UP is best, with a taper to the original diameter to maintain exhaust velocity (think velocity stack)
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070006-1.jpg
Hotside turbine exit and wastegate; only a small port on the turbine exit, taking out the 'step' in the circle and smoothing everything out. The mirror finish supposedly reflects heat better, maintain exhaust temp and in turn velocity, leading to better spool-up and reduced soot buildup in that area. I was not as adventurous as other that ported the wastegate opening to change boost creep though.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2008/11/P1070005-1.jpg
Steps to PnP most engine parts involve the following bits (as per Koji on the 2.0lT forum)
"1. Carbide bit (you don't need one of these but trust me you'll wish you had one if you don't get one) to open up the area. Use grinding lube with this or you're going to get covered in shards.
2. Grinding stone to take down the scrapes from the carbide bit. (This isn't always necessary)
3. 40/60 grit drum rolls. Which one depends upon how coarse it is after the stone or if you used the stone at all.
4. 80 grit flapper wheel.
5. 120 grit flapper wheel.
6. Buffer bobs or cross buffs."
Dismantling of the turbo is pretty straightforward, use of a torch and PB blaster is highly suggested for the cast-iron hot side. Use a rubber mallet to tap/blungeon :razz: both housings off, keep in mind to NOT damage the turbine fins when the housings fall off Marking the cold and hot side housings in relation to their position with the center section (CRH) is a MUST if you want to keep the turbo balanced.