Injectors dropping out when engine warm? Help!!!

[tuppscivic]

I swapped a phase II 2.5rs engine into a 99 Subaru legacy outback and am now having strange problems? I used a iacv out of a 97 impreza and swapped all of the sensors that didn't mate to the 99 phase I wiring. I ended up cutting and soldering the phase II injector clips onto the 99 harness so they would plug right in.

The issue that I am now having is the car will idle a little higher than normal at warm up, but as soon as the car is warm and the idle drops down, two of the 4 injectors will stop "ticking" and drop out.
It used to be cylinders 1 and 4, but after resoldering all of the connections, cylinder 1 and 3 drop out. I checked for loose connections, and am reading 13.2 volts at all of the injector clips when the car is running. I used a screwdriver to listen to each injector, and 1 and 3 do not tick at all at rough warm idle.

If I unplug each injector one at a time, #1 has no change in idle.
Unplug cylinder #2 the engine dies.
Cylinder #3 has no change in idle.
Cylinder #4 the idle slows down and than starts to idle better and cylinder #3 starts to fire to make up for #4?

I have no ideas what might cause the two injectors to cut out at warm? I tested the injectors them selfs, and they resistance test fine. Could it be a sensor? Or should I resolder the clips again?
Please help, Im pulling my hair out on this issue!

Edited by Huffer for improved reading. No-one likes reading a continuous sentence or unbroken paragraphs.

[sexystover]

does the car run normal while driving?

[tuppscivic]

I've only driven the car for about 20 minutes at a crack, but it seems to drive fine when I start it and place the car directly in drive and go. Even at stop lights the car idles higher than normal, but doesnt drop out the cylinders until in park.

[decke48]

do you have injector test lights? and see if the ecu is firing of the injectors?

[tuppscivic]

Yes, I tried injector noids and the light was dim on the injector clips that were not working until I rev'd the motor up. Then the light brightened. The problem was first happening in cylinder 1 and 4 and now for some reason it switched to 1 and 3?

[RS22b]

try another ecu. You might find your problem there.

If everything else checks out as you have tested, it all points to the ecu.

Try it out and let us know ;)

_billy

[Zedhead]

IMO, I'd suspect the solder joints. Prolly adding to much resitance.Try measuring the voltage at the ECU pinouts.

[tuppscivic]

I tried my buddy's ecu the car reacted exactly the same. I resoldered the joints twice with no change. I found a slight vacuum leak on cylinder #4's intake manifold gasket, which i'm replacing tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted.

[Zedhead]

Dija try reading the voltage at the ECU Inj pinouts?

[thetoyotatech]

Hey I dunno if you fixed the problem but, I would just bite the bullet and buy two new INJ. and only two because the other two good INJ will compensate duty cycle(AKA how long the INJ stays open) depending on A/F ratio, knock, misfire.

Note about INJ* the INJ will always show continuity unless you break the INJ in half or (super rare) open in the INJ coil. The only way you can really test INJ(s) is by using a Oscilloscope and comparing the scope's sign to a sign from the Subaru repair manual.

Let me know

[tuppscivic]

Sorry, I haven't checked the posts for a while. I was told to switch the injectors around to see if the problem followed the injector, or stayed with the cylinder. I switched out the two injectors that fired consistently with the ones that I was having the problems with. The problem stayed with the cylinder, meaning that the injectors were ok. This also means that the problem is in the wiring or with one of the sensors. I already tried switching out the ecu with no luck. I found what I think was a small vacuum leak on one of the intake manifold gaskets and switched it out with no luck.

[decke48]

have you check the resistance between the wires where its soldered?