EZ30 swap

[sexystover]

i dont have the funds to do it now but i plan to if the deals are still around but a heads up for anyone who was thinking about it, go on car(dash)part.com and looks up the engine for a 2003 subaru legacy (the 3.0 of course) there are a couple for 500-1000 dollars, then the engine harness is another 100-200 and the ecu is 100-150, so you can have a swap for about 1500 hypothetically speeking of course if those parts are in working condition

[subba]

not important but you might have to work with weight distribution, i see a few Flat6 conversions and the car looked like a SRT-4

[Okin DaVanh]

i dont have the funds to do it now but i plan to if the deals are still around but a heads up for anyone who was thinking about it, go on car(dash)part.com and looks up the engine for a 2003 subaru legacy (the 3.0 of course) there are a couple for 500-1000 dollars, then the engine harness is another 100-200 and the ecu is 100-150, so you can have a swap for about 1500 hypothetically speeking of course if those parts are in working condition





What about the differences between the tranny, drive shaft, and rear end?

[Huffer]

The 5mt will physically bolt up to the H6 engine... however the newer EZ30's have AVCS and a few other things going on. AFAIK, Link is the only aftermarket ECU manufacturer that can control the EZ30...I was reading a lot about a guy on clubsub.org.nz who put one in his GTB...his car was the test mule.

But if you can swap in the ECU and still run all the sensors (like fuel tank etc) then it should work flawlessly. I'm pretty sure ECS/Broken Motorsports/Garage Tuning would be able to handle it.

[Okin DaVanh]

But still... what about the rear differential? Would that still hold the torque and power differences?

[grayguy]

if you know how to drive, and don't abuse it, the tranny/ rear end will hold up.

The extra cost of an EZ30 over a eg33 doesn't make sense to me. You can easily find whole SVX's for this swap for around $500. Yes the eg33 is a little bit bigger, but that's not enough of an issue for me to worry about. I still want an eg33 swapped Loyale!

[Okin DaVanh]

if you know how to drive, and don't abuse it, the tranny/ rear end will hold up.

The extra cost of an EZ30 over a eg33 doesn't make sense to me. You can easily find whole SVX's for this swap for around $500. Yes the eg33 is a little bit bigger, but that's not enough of an issue for me to worry about. I still want an eg33 swapped Loyale!


Then theoretically, you're only half done if you get the motor/harness and ECU. I don't think if someone swaps an EZ30 in, they're doing it to drive more carefully.

So basically getting the whole drivetrain would be the right way to go.

[sexystover]

if you know how to drive, and don't abuse it, the tranny/ rear end will hold up.

The extra cost of an EZ30 over a eg33 doesn't make sense to me. You can easily find whole SVX's for this swap for around $500. Yes the eg33 is a little bit bigger, but that's not enough of an issue for me to worry about. I still want an eg33 swapped Loyale!


Then theoretically, you're only half done if you get the motor/harness and ECU. I don't think if someone swaps an EZ30 in, they're doing it to drive more carefully.

So basically getting the whole drivetrain would be the right way to go.

well it depends, for me it would just be so my car is a bit quicker, in no way would i be launching it or power shifting it or w/e so it would probably last awhile, if you plan to launch it, drag it or w/e else then yes you would need a driveline upgrade

[Huffer]

I'm pretty sure any kind of hard driving and you'll need a drivetrain upgrade for ANY car. Magazine test drivers were easily burning out the new GTR clutches because they were abusing the car. Not to mention all the WRX owners complaining of glass trannies...after they'd dumped the clutch a few times. :smt021

Remember, the B9 Tribeca and H6 type vehicles are built for torque and CRUISING. Not drag launches etc. So their gearboxes are not typically going to be specced for that kind of abuse anyway.

So it would make sense to eventually upgrade the tranny and probably the axles, but I have a feeling the stock trans would hold the torque fairly well if you had one that was in good shape to begin with.

[Downshift1]

We have a EZ30D (01'-04') in our GC8 time attack car.

It fits fine and if you swap all the wiring it'll make the job fairly easy.

It will bolt directly to any EJ series transmission and uses a standard EJ series clutch and flywheel.

As for drive train failure, the 6 only make about as much torque as a normal turbo engine it just makes it faster.

I would just follow the same guidelines as you would for building a drive train for a decently powered turbo engine.

-Dylan @ DS1

[StatGSR]

if you know how to drive, and don't abuse it, the tranny/ rear end will hold up.

The extra cost of an EZ30 over a eg33 doesn't make sense to me. You can easily find whole SVX's for this swap for around $500. Yes the eg33 is a little bit bigger, but that's not enough of an issue for me to worry about. I still want an eg33 swapped Loyale!


Then theoretically, you're only half done if you get the motor/harness and ECU. I don't think if someone swaps an EZ30 in, they're doing it to drive more carefully.

So basically getting the whole drivetrain would be the right way to go.

the only tranny that is strong enough to help is an sti 6 speed (that alone isnt on the same cost scale as a ez30 or eg33 swap), all 5 speeds have about the same strength. now if you want to use an auto that will just soak up all the extra power be my guest.... but what the hell is the point in upgrading then.

ill let u know how my eg33 swap goes next fall when its done. if you know how to modulate a clutch, and ease through the gear shifts, full throttle pulls in any gear other than first shouldnt hurt anything.

[Huffer]

PPG gearsets are supposedly fairly tough. :lol:

[Okin DaVanh]

I never mentioned doing this swap. If it's up here, it's up for discussion. I didn't see my 2.2l auto tranny holding up my 2.2 none the less a 3.0l.

And btw, If you even thought about this set up, it wasn't to save more at the pump. You're probably thinking of hunting some other flat 6 on a stretch of highway someday or towing something. So launching w/ a release of the line lock or just spirited driving, you'd need something reliable. If you were going through all the trouble for the motor/wiring/ECU, why not go a little further and get the running gear that matches? And yes I'm aware of 2.5 aftermarket clutches that'll hold the torque as well as drive shafts and gearing for the rear end.

I guess I'm different in thinking that the 3.0L tranny that it came with was different than ours. I wasn't thinking track either. I meant even for someones daily driver, is this a reliable set up?

[StatGSR]

^ please reread my post...."matching gear set" isnt any better. the only tranny available with either of these H6s (EZ or EG) was an automatic, so screw the whole "matching gear set" idea. Crap even the auto that came in the SVX couldnt keep up with the eg33. fact of the matter is your gunna risk problems no matter what you do. i have no problems starting a collection of 5spds if i start breaking the crap out of them. but hey i want to own a hilarious STi killin Wagacy of doom, so this is the path i choose...

If your worried about reliability, don't modify your car.

[StatGSR]

PPG gearsets are supposedly fairly tough. :lol:


lmao, yea let me know when i can pic up one of those for 500 bux...

[Okin DaVanh]

I did read your post.... And?

I'm not new to this. Hence why I asked a few questions.

I'd like to see this, but I know I wouldn't do this. However, I guess If a 2.5 will fit on an H6, then it should also go vice versa and be used on flat 4's to tow better?

I know all H6 SVX's come in auto ( as well as OB) I also know that there's a company out there that converts SVX's into 5-6 speeds, but no one I know can tell me how good the set up really is.

I also know that having 2nd thoughts might not get you home, across the finish line - heck, the starting line , the driveway etc... When I said reliable, that's what I meant. Why build something with a tranny you'd have 2nd thoughts about in the first place. I'm not saying use the auto, but to use something that's been proven. If there is such a tranny.

[StatGSR]

towing capacity of a legacy isnt limited by power, yea it could help, but that would be one of the silliest reasons to go about this swap.

as i said about the only tranny out of the box that can safely handle the torque of the h6 besides the autos subaru has would be a sti 6 speed. just trying to get an sti tranny in good condition will run over $2000, i can tell you one thing, i bought my legacy for less than that so im more then content with out the piece of mind of having the "proper" tranny. like i said, I'm NOT worried about how the tranny will hold up because i know how i SHOULD drive after this swap if i want to keep it in 1 piece, but if that backfires, im still much more willing to spend $300 on a replacement tranny and try again.

again like i said if your looking for reliability dont bother touching your car. and if you want to, it should probably not be your only car.

[Okin DaVanh]

towing capacity of a legacy isnt limited by power, yea it could help, but that would be one of the silliest reasons to go about this swap.


The torque from your tranny is what helps get the job done. None the less, an auto tranny sucks. So doing this swap would only benefit those who tow.


...as i said about the only tranny out of the box that can safely handle the torque of the h6 besides the autos subaru has would be a sti 6 speed. just trying to get an sti tranny in good condition will run over $2000, i can tell you one thing, i bought my legacy for less than that so im more then content with out the piece of mind of having the "proper" tranny.

I've had customers pay a grand or less for a car, and drop $10k - $20k+. Remember, it should be based on your total interest in said car.




like i said, I'm NOT worried about how the tranny will hold up because i know how i SHOULD drive after this swap if i want to keep it in 1 piece, but if that backfires, im still much more willing to spend $300 on a replacement tranny and try again.

again like i said if your looking for reliability dont bother touching your car. and if you want to, it should probably not be your only car.


Not me, But whoever wants to attempt this. You keep directing this towards me. My car is very reliable. It's also just the way I like it... Low and slow. :smt023



I've met a customer of ours that has a 959 Kitcar that had an EJ25, but had been sourcing parts for an EZ30. I've heard almost all the other "options" he had set in front of him. However, his pockets are deeper than mine, which left me running away from even thinking about this back in July.



Stat- I have no issues with you or this set up. I'm NOT swapping, nor do I want to. I just would like to get as much of the facts about this swap out as possible. I think anyone who does a swap to a 2nd gen, Is probably spending more than what their car is worth or very close to. No matter what swap.

With that said.... Thanks for your input almighty Banned 1 :notworthy:

[grayguy]

With that said.... Thanks for your input almighty Banned 1 :notworthy:

LMAO!!!

And you do have a point about modding 2nd Gens, but I know he wasn't talking about all 2nd gens not being worth the $$ to put a 6mt in, It's just hard to justify a $2000+ tranny swap for the kind of driving most people do 95% of the time. I know when my 98's on the Road, I'll probably pop a 5spd or 2, but I'm ok with that, because I can probably put 10+ 5mt's in my car before I reach the same price as a 6mt.

I'm sure there are some people out there with this swap that hopefully can provide some hands on experience.

[Huffer]

it all goes back to the old rule: fast, cheap, reliable. Pick two.

[Okin DaVanh]

I just found out today, that Stat has bought an SVX.

Hence the "experience" yield I had to give him. I didn't know.

But, yeah, you don't want to spend most of your time under your hood is what I meant by reliable, not 100k + in miles before it goes. If I'd get 5k miles worth of driving in between destruction, I'd be somewhat satisfied.