attack of the rust!

[evolegacy]

ewwwww!!! this blows, my baby's got rust on her, just above the front windshield, bubbling up the paint in a couple spots there, and then on both sides behind the rear tires where the fender and bumber meet. the Driver side finally started to chip so i paniced and im looking for help. I've been debating on giving the car a paintjob but now with the rust I decided its go time. Does anyone in the area know how to paint/ remove dents and would be willing to help me out if I got the supplies? It wont be for a while (prolly end of month, early april) but I wanna get a heads up so I can save for the paints at least. If not I will probably get a quote from a local custom shop/dent removal shop.

Most of the dents are from idiots slappin there doors against my car, the only 2 that are from me are on the hood from me trying to close the hood (bad hood latch) and on the rear passenger door, the lower panel is pushed in from a minor fender-bender back in '07, only noticeable if you rub your hand against it or get the light to shine off it the right way.

you can either post here or PM me if your interested, or just give me some idea on what to expect, time wise, and such.

im going to -1 myself cuz i dont have the pics to show you what im talking about on my PC yet, will post them when i do.

[decke48]

PM Illnastyimpreza hes painting his legacy right now. hes around your area too

[Huffer]

ewwwww!!! this blows, my baby's got rust on her, just above the front windshield, bubbling up the paint in a couple spots there,

This is what it looks like if the bodyshop you take it to doesn't cut the rust out:
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2007/04/051210_RustunderWindscreen15-1.jpg
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/03/051210_RustunderWindscreen13-1.jpg

[dplacencia]

My was on the driver side rear fender corner is rusted bad too.

Now on my GT it's staring to bubble on the right rear. It's really making me mad. The only rust on the whole car!!!!!!! I want to get this fixed. if I take it to a body shop and they dont cut it out and try to repair it will it come back? It stated as a really small spot now its 4 and one of them is 3 times the size of the others.

I really hate rust!!!!!!!!!! :roll:

It's probably going to cost me $300-400 to fix it because they will have to repaint the whole quarter panel...

[grayguy]

It's probably going to cost me $300-400 to fix it because they will have to repaint the whole quarter panel...

I hate to burst your bubble, but IF you can find a shop that will actually cut out the rust and weld in new metal, it is going to run you a hell of a lot more than $300-$400, I'd guess easily 5 times that. Around here, most body shops around here wont even do rust repair like your talking about.

I'm so glad my BD is from Cali :grin:

[dplacencia]

Then when it comes time to do it. I will just have to pay whatever to just get it fixed.

[Huffer]

Get it fixed now. Rust is very much like cancer - you can't see it spreading under the paint and through the metal. What you see on the surface is only the tip of the iceberg.

[Okin DaVanh]

Good luck on your decision. That's a hard one to make that I'm gonna have to soon. :-(


If it's long term you're looking at with your car then, doing it right to me means replacing the whole panel. Not to say that's it's the golden rule, Just my .02$ When you have a black car, hack work will rear it's ugly head. :smt021 At some places, you get what you pay for. Would another shell be a cheaper, faster route?? Just a thought.


In Huffer's former BD's situation, I probably would've stripped it down too, but if that weren't an option? Then a bit of cutting/welding/bodywork would definately be in the works.

I rebuilt my own car as well. repaired most of it, and just for the sake of not sanding down road chips, I replaced all the front sheetmetal at the time. But there's a catch... it had around 56k and no signs of rust and we rarely used it in the past for winters. Time is begining to show on E.S. He's 12 now. I also begining to gather some parts and panels.

[evolegacy]

well i have a couple of friends that work as body repair specialists (or used to), so cutting out that part isnt that big a deal, they are fairly good at it and I have seen there previous work so they can back up there words.

as for the painting, i've been thinking about doing it myself, I used to be really big into miniture model making and was very good at painting the small stuff, the interior that I have atm for the car was done by me as well, so its not like i dont know how to paint, it would just be having to find the space, time, and equipment to do it ya know? also, im leaning more and more towards giving it that WR blue paintjob, the BDs i've seen with it so far look sexy with it, stock body or aero kit.

[Piddster]

If it is showing, it could be as bad as the previous pics. Or not. The only way to really know what is going on, is to get in there and find out. And the only way to get it out, is to cut and grind until you don't find it anymore. There's no other way around it. And it could be painful to see if you know a few things about bodywork.


Most often something like that is from a poor job of replacing the windshield. The knife catches the paint and they don't put anything over the bare sheetmetal. A couple-few years later rust shows.




Painting large swaths of body panels is a bit different than model parts.


Granted you know the intricacies of using automotive paint, the major enemy of painting outside of a booth is dust, dirt, and bugs. Every garage if full of it, not matter what you do. If you paint in the average garage expect to wet sand some junk out of the paint. I plan on painting my engine bay and jams in my garage, but use a booth for the outside. Poly around the whole garage, a few furnace filters for inlet air and a solid fan or two plus filters for the outlet should keep the dust down, along with wetting the floor right before we spray. Keep in mind it usually is illegal to spray said chemicals in your home garage without the proper exhaust filtration system. The stuff really is nasty.

Also, you will need to blend that repair into the rest of the car. You most likely have to clear 3/4 of the roof if not all of it, and blend the base over about half of it, plus the A-pillar.

[dplacencia]

I plan on getting this repaired this year. Trust me guy's as clean as my car is. There are certain things that bug me and that is on the top of my list!!!! If it has to be then it has to be cut.

[chuckthefuk]

I'v done this kinda repair to my friends 92 supra. he had rust in the same area as huffer.. I wouldn't say it was as extreme as Huffers but pretty bad..

If you want to save yourself some $$$$.. Pull the windshield yourself.. Heavy duty metal fishing wire works very well or get the glass removal kit.

Inspect the damage and make the right decision.

In my friends situation he was lucky. The rust had not reached the underskin of the roof. So I grinding all the rust away and a thin layer of mixed fiberglass, a bit of bondo and a prime.

A few coats of paint and the glass guy arrived the next day.. Good as new :lol:


Now on to the rear quarter panels..

I had the lovely experience of repairing my driveside rear quarter last summer.. Holy hell.. A few tiny bubbles were forming.. not even a spec of rust was showing.. So i sanded.. then i grinded.. and you know what i found.. 3 inch hole of NOTHING!!! The inside was completely rotten.

After an hour of contemplating and half a pack of cigarettes. I decided the only option was to weld a patch. I must say I hate mixed fiberglass and I hate bondo even more. I wish body shops wouldn't cheese body panels. The true body guys use so little.. Anyways.. A bit of grinding and mixed fiberglass I was good as new!

The rear quarters tend to rust out because of the drainage holes on the sunroof assembly and the power antenna drainage tube. most of the time the tubes get dislodged or clogged.. Arg I hate rust!!!


Good luck with your mission.

-Chuck

[ESSYMOND]

My 2.5 leggy is starting to rust at the bottom corner of the driver door, but i think it shouldnt be too hard to fix that part myself.

Im looking at grinding it down then just redoing it, is that going to work?

[warrior]

My 2.5 leggy is starting to rust at the bottom corner of the driver door, but i think it shouldnt be too hard to fix that part myself.

Im looking at grinding it down then just redoing it, is that going to work?

That's actually too late to fix it for good.. what you're seeing is the outside, the rust is on the inside of the door. The best thing you can do is clean it up as best as you can and keep oiling it on the inside; that will slow the rust down.

No body shop can get the rust out of the inside, I have the same problem and my body shop guy said he can clean it up and slow it down. The only way to get rid of it is a new door. :smt022

I have bad rust on my car, the front end of the hood, the driver side rear panel, the spoiler, and the passenger side rear panel is starting to bubble too.

Getting it all fix for $900 CAD in a couple of weeks but man, rust really makes your car look like shit.

[ESSYMOND]

thanks a lot man, what part of Toronto do you live around? Wheres the shop at? I guess im a bit lucky because thats the only rust i see

[chuckthefuk]

thanks a lot man, what part of Toronto do you live around? Wheres the shop at? I guess im a bit lucky because thats the only rust i see

You want a spare drive side door with no rust.. I am pretty sure I got to double check. I am located in North York.

-Chuck

[warrior]

thanks a lot man, what part of Toronto do you live around? Wheres the shop at? I guess im a bit lucky because thats the only rust i see

I'm in Mississauga.. drive a green Legacy. It's the only Legacy with real HID projector lights from a BMW :smt005