perfect power 6

[jharl]

Anybody on here have any experience with one, installing or tuning?? I have questions and hopefully you have answers. Thanks.
Jason

[Huffer]

subaru_terrence has one.

[fastenova]

Hey there,

Just installed one myself. What questions do you have?

I've found their support dept. to be extremely unresponsive and generally not too helpful. I did get a wiring diagram for all the pins from them, but I believe that comes along with the developer's kit.

Anyway, I know a fair amount about it, and have just started tuning, so shoot!

Aaron

[jharl]

Thanks Huffer for your quick response, didn't see it till now.

fastenova-are you working on a maf based car? I've searched for wiring diagrams for maf based and they're all map, not sure if that makes a difference. And the tuning part, I haven't done any kind of tuning and it kinda scares me. I can do anything else to the car. I'm getting tired of the cel from my headers and would like to take advantage of the parts on my car. Thanks for any help you could provide.

[fastenova]

Yes, it's MAF-based ('97 Legacy GT).

I've got all the wiring diagrams you need. It's very simple, really. I soldered the connections and used heatshrink tubing, which takes longer than using butt connectors, but is obviously a much more reliable connection. I think I spent about an hour on the installation, finding the wires on the harness and matching it all up and soldering and putting it back together.

I'm not using ignition advance at all because I was told by a pretty knowledgeable guy that advance doesn't work on Suby ECUs, just retard... So I just teed into the ignition line and am not modifying that at all.

With the mods I have I just needed to lean out from the mid to the top end quite a bit, mostly, and am still in the process of tuning it. I just got my WB o2 sensor working with the PP6 so I can log everything all at once. I did some pulls yesterday and need to crunch the data to see where I need to modify the MAF signal.

The biggest thing I can say about tuning is SMALL STEPS, and go off the data you've collected, not what makes "good sense" because if your equipment is all callibrated and working, it doesn't lie. My example: I was just road tuning a bit and at full throttle, as my RPMS went up my modification table looks like this:

-1 -1 -3 +1 -3 -1 -2 -1 -1 -1

Where all the minuses I'm decreasing the MAF voltage, and the pluses I'm increasing it to signal more/less airflow, which means more/less fuel. The +1 in between the two -3s seemed weird to me, so I changed it to -1. The car started bucking hard at that RPM. Changed it back to +1 and it runs great.

When I say road tuning, I was just doing some pulls on the freeway in 5th gear/low RPM at full throttle to simulate a heavy load, and watching my AFR gauge at different places, then making small changes on the map to swing towards 12.5 AFR at full throttle.

Anyway, my point is that the numbers may look a little weird to your eye, but if you get them from actually looking at the AFR and by making small corrections each pass through, they are probably accurate. Every engine runs different and this is why good tuners get paid so much - because they aren't just using a common map for all vehicles, they are creating a customized map for an individual motor with a specific set of parts/mods.

I'll work on posting some detailed wiring diagrams, but I just went off of the PP6 installation manual. There's a lot of extraneous info in there, but if you pick through it there is good install info.

Aaron

[jharl]

Thanks for that info, and if I can get your diagrams that would be much appreciated. Although now from what you say, I'm gonna need a WB o2 which was kinda what I thought. I'll have to see if there's someone local with one I could borrow for awhile, or wait a few months till I can pick one up.

[fastenova]

Here's the SMT connector pinouts...
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/images/imported/2009/03/SMT_Pinoutpng-1.jpg

So here goes... This is for the single-connector JECS ECU only, and I'll be filling in the blank ECU pins over the next few days as I get a chance to look at my wiring again.

PP6 Pin_____Description______ECU Pin______Notes
1__________Ground_________17___________"Control system ground"
4__________Map switch_____(none)________Optional. This should go to a switch, then to ground. When grounded, it switches to "Map B"
6__________MAF input_______?____________MAF sensor output that the PP6 will modify
7__________Throttle input____6____________Output from throttle position sensor (TPS). DO NOT CUT WIRE!
8__________Ignition signal____?____________Output from crankshaft position sensor. Used for RPM input***
10_________Wideband input__(none)________Wideband o2 input, 0-5V preferred
11_________Engine temp_____22___________Output from Engine Coolant Temp sensor (ECT), DO NOT CUT WIRE!
13_________12V positive_____1____________12V when key in "On" position. Should come from ECU
18_________MAF output______?____________Modified MAF output signal from PP6 -> input for ECU

*** I chose NOT to modify the ignition signal, so I didn't cut the wire. I have been told that with 95-99 JECS ECUs, you cannot advance the ignition timing, only retard it. So I chose to not use the ignition output from the PP6 at all and let the crank signal go straight to the ECU. However, you must tap into this line (tee into it) in order to get RPM data.


If you are not using the AMP input (MAF-based cars like ours won't use it) you can use this input as your wbo2 input. Innovate Motorsports' LC-1 and I think AEM's wb o2 both have 0-5V linear programmable outputs. The PP6's Oxygen Input (pin 22) is for narrowband sensors only! It will see a maximum of 1V, and it is not linear at all. Therefore, it won't work with any o2 sensor with a linear output. However, the AMP input is 0-5V and you can 'calibrate' the software that the PP6 uses to match the output of your o2 sensor. I'll explain more on this later, as I'm still making slight adjustments to my own calibration to dial it in.

[jharl]

fastenova- I really appreciate your help with this. Now, on the ecu pinouts, do you have a source for what number corresponds to what pin on the plug? Where exactly did you mount the pp6, tucked under the dash and also can you leave the laptop cable hooked up to it at all times? And, do you think it's even worthwhile to put it on if I don't have a wb o2 just yet? Oh, and did you end up pulling any excess wires out of the pp6 harness or do you just leave them in the harness? Yah sorry lot of questions.
Jason

[anothernord]

Back from the dead, do you have any base maps for our cars? I'm working out the kinks on mine but there is something wrong with my ignition signal.

[subaru_terrence]

hey fastenova,

you mentioned that we are not supposed to play around with iginition map?
I tried to get another road tune this year... my tuner tried to play around with timing this time and i wasnt impressed with the result at all.

Basically, I got hesitation at various speed and misfire when I tried to pull it hard at 2nd gear. :S

[fastenova]

I am still having issues with mine. Here's the skinny:

From 3000RPM and up, the car pulls great. Taking off from a stop, give it gas, slip the clutch a little, and it tends to bog/misfire/hesitate and the car is clearly down on power. I have ONLY modified fuel based on the MAF signal modification, and only my far right column has values in it.

I talked to a local tuner who doesn't want to work on my PP6 (The tuner has worked on these in the past and has apparently never gotten results he was happy with) and they said I might want to try pulling a couple of degrees of timing down low and see if that helps.

I may look into this, as right now I don't even have the PP6 wired to the ignition at all.

The other tuner in town who does work with PP6, well, I'll just say I had a bad experience with them a long time ago and don't really trust them to take the necessary care when working on my vehicle. I'm not going to pay somebody quite a bit of money to work on my car when they are careless or lack common sense, even if they are regarded by others as "subject matter experts".

I'm frustrated a bit right now, because I'd like the car to run better, can't go to standalone because I still have to pass emissions, and have been told the PP6 is not powerful enough to get the car running decent. Maybe I'll just sell my cams...

[subaru_terrence]

I have similar problems compare to yours as well.
This is my story

I used to have an old map with perfect power that was custom tuned for my car for 87 octane with just the intake. I believe he only adjusted the fuel map at that time. It would have a knock/stutter at 70km/h around 1800rpm specifically when I left it in D. It was quite noticeable but if i left it in 3rd with higher rpm, i didnt have any problem.

After a year, I got it tuned again for 91 octane with headers and other stuff.
This is where the real problems begin:
let say if I do a hard pull in 2nd gear, I could feel the car actually hesitates and doesnt accelerate smoothly. When the rpm pass 5000 rpm, sometimes I can hear "misfire sound"? It sounds like "bap bap bap bap"

Also, if i just cruise around or drive smoothly in D, the car would stutter around 70km/h at about 1800rpm just like before. If i step on the gas pedal half way through in D (without shifting down) when I am going 120+ km/h, the car would stutter/jerk/hesitates and misfire.

I blew my ignition fuse once when I was cruising at higher speed on offroads for a long time